Nuptse
| Nubtse | |
|---|---|
 Nubtse from Kala Patthar | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 7,861 m (25,791 ft) |
| Prominence | 319 m (1,047 ft) |
| Listing | List of mountains in Nepal |
| Coordinates | 27°57′59″N 86°53′24″E / 27.9664°N 86.89°E |
| Naming | |
| Native name | ནུབ་རྩེ། नुबचे (Sherpa) |
| English translation | West Peak |
| Geography | |
| Parent range | Mahalangur Himal, Himalayas |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | 1961 by a British team led by Joe Walmsley |
| Easiest route | snow/ice climb |
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| Nuptse | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Traditional Chinese | 努子峰 | ||
| Simplified Chinese | 努子峰 | ||
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Nuptse or Nubtse (Sherpa: ནུབ་རྩེ། नुबचे, Wylie: Nub rtse, Chinese: 努子峰) is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Mahalangur Himal, in the Nepalese Himalayas. It lies 2 km (1.2 mi) WSW of Mount Everest. The main peak, Nuptse I at an elevation of 7,861 m (25,791 ft), was first climbed on May 16, 1961 by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi.[1][2] After a hiatus of over 20 years, Nuptse again became the objective of mountaineers from 1984, with important routes being put up on its west, south, and north faces.
Name
Nuptse is Tibetan for "west peak", as it is the western segment of the Lhotse-Nuptse massif.[3]
Climbing
Nuptse is a dramatic peak when viewed from the south or west, and it towers above the base camp for the standard south col route on Everest. However, it is not a particularly independent peak: its topographic prominence is only 319 m (1,047 ft). Hence it is not ranked in the list of highest mountains.
Nuptse was first climbed in 1961 and a few times thereafter.
- 1961 - First ascent of the North Ridge on May 16 by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi as part of a British expedition led by Joe Walmsley. On May 17, summited by members of the same expedition, Chris Bonington, Les Brown, James Swallow and Pemba Sherpa.[1][2]
- 1979 - Ascent of the North Ridge on October 19 by Georges Bettembourg, Doug Scott, Alan Rouse and Brian Hall.[4]
- 1984 - First ascent of the West Ridge by Yvan Estienne, Rémi Roux, et al., an expedition led by Raymond Renaud.
- 1994 - First ascent of the south pillar of Nuptse Shar I by Frenchmen Michel Fauquet and Vincent Fine, who were stopped by the wind on the summit ridge 300 m (980 ft) from the summit.
- 2008 - Opening of the south face by Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz; nominated for the Piolets d'or 2008.
- 2017 - Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux2 open a route on the south face.[5]
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In culture
Nuptse is the name of a line of jackets and other outdoors clothing by the The North Face, an American outdoor recreation products company.[6] The Nuptse Jacket was introduced by The North Face in 1992. It featured a novel baffle construction to reduce shifting of the down and increase warmth.[7]
References
- ^ a b Walmsley, Joe (1961). "Nuptse" (PDF). Alpine Journal. Alpine Club: 209–234. Retrieved 29 April 2014.
- ^ a b Bonington, Chris (1962). "Nuptse" (PDF). Journal. XIII (3). The Climber's Club: 306–312. Retrieved 29 April 2014.
- ^ "Nuptse". www.summitpost.org. 2003. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
- ^ Blanchard, B. (1 June 2023). "A Mountain Apart". Alpinist Magazine. Summer 2023 (82): 50–75.
- ^ Franz, D. (2017). "French team completes new route on Nuptse's south face". Alpinist.com Newswire. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
- ^ "The North Face Nuptse Collection of Jackets, Vests, and More". The North Face. 2023. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
- ^ Kollat, M. (30 November 2022). "The North Face relaunches the exact replica of its most famous jacket". T3 (magazine). Retrieved 4 November 2023.
External links
- Nuptse on Summitpost
- Nuptse on Peakware - photos
- Günther Seifferth, Nuptse at himalaya-info.org.
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