Swona
| Old Norse name | Svíney; Swefney |
|---|---|
| Meaning of name | Sweyn's Island; Pig/whale island |
 Swona, viewed from South Ronaldsay | |
| Location | |
  Swona Swona shown within Orkney | |
| OS grid reference | ND387844 |
| Coordinates | 58°44′34″N 3°03′29″W / 58.74279°N 3.05815°W |
| Physical geography | |
| Island group | Orkney |
| Area | 92 ha (230 acres) |
| Area rank | 153 [1] |
| Highest elevation | Warbister Hill 41 m (135 ft) |
| Administration | |
| Council area | Orkney Islands |
| Country | Scotland |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Demographics | |
| Population | 0[2] |
 | |
| References | [3][4][5][6] |
| Swona Lighthouse | |
 The beacon on The Tarf, Swona | |
| Coordinates | 58°44′15″N 3°04′14″W / 58.737451°N 3.070497°W |
| Constructed | 1906 (first) |
| Foundation | concrete base |
| Construction | concrete tower (current) cast iron tower (first) |
| Automated | 1983 |
| Height | 8 m (26 ft) |
| Shape | quadrangular tower with external ladder, balcony and light |
| Markings | white tower |
| Power source | solar power  |
| Operator | Northern Lighthouse Board[8] |
| First lit | 1983 (current)[7] |
| Deactivated | 1983 (first) |
| Focal height | 17 m (56 ft) |
| Range | 9 nmi (17 km; 10 mi) |
| Characteristic | Fl W 8s. |
Swona is an uninhabited privately owned island in the Pentland Firth off the north coast of Scotland. It has a herd of feral cattle resulting from the abandonment of stock in 1974. There have been multiple shipwrecks on the island over the years as the waters that surrounds it are treacherous with strong tides and jagged rocks. The remains of many can still be see when passing on the short ferry journey from gills bay to St Margaret’s hope with Pentland ferries.
Geography and geology
Swona is the more northerly of two islands in the Pentland Firth between the Orkney Islands and Caithness on the Scottish mainland. It lies in the southern approach to Scapa Flow, west of South Ronaldsay.
Situated in the tidal stream of the Pentland Firth, a tidal race is present at both the north and south ends of the island, being minimal briefly at the turn of the tide. Between the races is a calm eddy which extends down-tide as the tide strengthens. The races are highly visible, with over-falls and whirlpools. Large swell waves can also be present, especially in bad weather conditions. When entering or leaving the eddies crossing the races, even large powerful vessels can be pushed off course, such is the demarcation between the relatively calm eddy and the fast-moving tide in the races.
Swona is about 1+1⁄4 miles (2.0 kilometres) long by about 1⁄2 mile (800 m) wide, with a maximum height of approximately 41 m (135 ft) and an area of about 92 hectares (230 acres). It is made up of Old Red Sandstone with cliffs on the east coast.[9]
It is administered as part of the Orkney Islands, while Stroma, to the south, is part of the Highland Region (although traditionally part of Caithness). There is no regular access to the island, however, the Pentland Ferries sailing from Gills Bay, near John o' Groats, to St Margaret's Hope usually passes close to the island, dependent on the tidal direction at the time.
In 2005 Swona was owned by two Orkney farmers, but not worked due to difficulty of access. It is a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest) conservation area with a number of rare plants.
History
The island takes its name from Old Norse, Svíney or Swefney, meaning either "Swine Isle" or "Sweyn’s Isle".[5][10]
There is a similarly named island, Svínoy, in the Faroe Islands.
There are prehistoric, pre-Norse and Norse remains on the island.[9] as well as the remains of more recent crofting settlement including a herd of feral cattle. The island was populated from around 500 BC until 1974.
Boats were built on the island for a number of years. The last of these, the Hood can be seen pulled well up the shingle beach by the landing stage. It is no longer seaworthy, having a hole in it caused by the feral cows using it as a rubbing post. The landing stage and boat can be seen briefly in passing through a gap in the rocks near the north end of the island on the east side. The last house to be occupied can also be seen in this area.
The island was the site of many shipwrecks caused by the strong currents in the Pentland Firth. In 1931, a 6,000 ton Danish freighter called Pennsylvania was wrecked on the island. The Orkney newspaper of the time said that it was one of the most richly-laden ships that was ever wrecked in the area. After some salvaging, the wreck was finally bought by a syndicate of Stroma and Swona men.
The Swona Minor light was built in 1906 on the south west tip of Swona. It was originally a cast iron tower but was replaced by a reinforced concrete square tower sometime in the 1980s. The earlier Stroma Lighthouse was built in 1896 and stands at the northern end of the Island of Stroma.
In summer 1973 Arthur Rosie left the island and died shortly afterwards. James and Violet Rosie (brother and sister) left in March 1974.[9] James had Parkinsons Disease and died c. 1976 of a perforated stomach ulcer. Violet died c. 1984 in South Ronaldsay. They returned only periodically to the island. Many of the houses, while in a state of dilapidation, are as they were left, with various possessions still to be seen where they were left.
Swona is one of the locations described in Cal Flyn's Islands of Abandonment: Life in the Post-Human Landscape (2020, William Collins: ISBN 978-0008329761).[11][12]
In July 2022 the Pentland Ferries' vessel MV Alfred, running between Gills Bay and St Margaret's Hope, grounded on Swona.[13]
Wildlife
When the population departed they left a herd of beef cattle – eight cows and one bull (Shorthorn - Aberdeen-Angus cross). Five generations later, in 2004, the herd which had turned feral was still going strong,[14] and is now classified as a new breed in the World Dictionary of Livestock Breeds.[15] It then consisted of ten bulls, four cows and two calves. Two calves are born each spring, although not all live to maturity. The herd gets no additional feed, although it is checked by a vet each year. The animals are self-selecting for hardiness, easy calving, and low-maintenance, feeding off the grass and seaweed.
Having been separated from the mainland for so long, they are completely disease-free, and have reverted to wild behaviour. Because of this, DNA samples have been taken, from the ears of some of the cattle that died. In the summer the main herd is usually in the centre of the island. By 2012 the herd had settled to an average of seventeen animals.[16] This appears to be around the maximum number that the island can support. In 2017 The BBC documentary series Britain's Ancient Capital: Secrets of Orkney briefly visited Swona. Chris Packham counted twenty cows and calves and three bulls.
The island is part of the Pentland Firth Islands Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and is home to thousands of breeding seabirds, including Arctic terns (Sterna paradisaea) which have a colony on the northern part of the island, and Atlantic puffins (Fratercula arctica) which burrrow into the hillside.[17][18]
See also
Footnotes
- ^ Area and population ranks: there are c. 300 islands over 20 ha in extent and 93 permanently inhabited islands were listed in the 2011 census.
- ^ National Records of Scotland (15 August 2013). "Appendix 2: Population and households on Scotland's Inhabited Islands" (PDF). Statistical Bulletin: 2011 Census: First Results on Population and Household Estimates for Scotland Release 1C (Part Two) (PDF) (Report). SG/2013/126. Retrieved 14 August 2020.
- ^ Ordnance Survey: Landranger map sheet 7 Orkney (Southern Isles) (Map). Ordnance Survey. 2008. ISBN 9780319228135.
- ^ Haswell-Smith, Hamish (2004). The Scottish Islands. Edinburgh: Canongate. ISBN 978-1-84195-454-7.
- ^ a b Anderson, Joseph (Ed.) (1893) Orkneyinga Saga. Translated by Jón A. Hjaltalin & Gilbert Goudie. Edinburgh. James Thin and Mercat Press (1990 reprint). ISBN 0-901824-25-9
- ^ Pedersen, Roy (January 1992) Orkneyjar ok Katanes (map, Inverness, Nevis Print)
- ^ Swona Scapa Flow. Retrieved 28 May 2016
- ^ Rowlett, Russ. "Lighthouses of Scotland: Orkney". The Lighthouse Directory. University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. Retrieved 28 May 2016.
- ^ a b c Overview of Swona
- ^ "The Orkney Vikings" (PDF). Retrieved 16 December 2007.
- ^ Jamie, Kathleen (20 January 2021). "How nature reclaims the places humans have abandoned". www.newstatesman.com. Retrieved 5 August 2021.
- ^ McDonald, Sally (16 March 2021). "Wild and abandoned: Writer Cal Flyn charts her journey to the world's disaster zones and ghost towns". The Sunday Post. Retrieved 5 August 2021.
- ^ "MV Alfred Incident" website of Pentland Ferries, 7 July 2022. Retrieved 13 November 2022
- ^ "Back to the herd instinct". The Scotsman. 14 June 2003. Archived from the original on 30 October 2010. Retrieved 20 February 2011.
- ^ Mason's World Dictionary of Livestock Breeds, Types and Varieties edited by Valerie Porter, p111
- ^ "A breed apart on Swona" website of BBC Countryfile Magazine, Friday 16 November 2012
- ^ "Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI)". Orkney Island Council. Retrieved 28 May 2021.
- ^ Flyn, Cal (May 2021). "The Reclaimers". BBC Wildlife. p. 51.
Bibliography
- John S. Findlay, A Photographic Portrait of Swona, Galaha Press, Kirkwall, 2010.
- John S. Findlay, Swona revisited, Galaha Press, Kirkwall, 2014.
External links
| Authority control databases: Swona Lighthouse |
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