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Nuptse

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Nuptse
Nuptse from Kala Patthar
Highest point
Elevation7,861 m (25,791 ft)
Prominence319 m (1,047 ft)
Naming
Native nameནུབ་རྩེ། नुबचे (Sherpa)
Geography
Map
Nuptse
Chinese努子峰
Transcriptions

Nuptse or Nubtse (Sherpa: ནུབ་རྩེ། नुबचे, Wylie: Nub rtse, Chinese: 努子峰) is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Mahalangur Himal, in the Nepalese Himalayas. It lies 2 km (1.2 mi) WSW of Mount Everest. The main peak, Nuptse I at an elevation of 7,861 m (25,791 ft), was first climbed on May 16, 1961, by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi.[1][2] After a hiatus of almost 20 years, Nuptse again became the objective of mountaineers, with important routes being put up on its west, south, and north faces.

Name

Nuptse is Tibetan for "west peak", as it is the western segment of the Lhotse-Nuptse massif.[3]

Geography

Nuptse lies 2 km (1.2 mi) WSW of Mount Everest. It is a dramatic peak when viewed from the south or west, and it towers above the base camp for the standard south col route on Everest. However, it is not a particularly independent peak: its topographic prominence is only 319 m (1,047 ft). Hence it is not ranked in the list of highest mountains.[citation needed]

The main Nuptse ridge contains 7 summits:

Summit Elevation Latitude (N) Longitude (E)
Nuptse I 7,861 m (25,791 ft) 27°57′59″ 86°53′24″
Nuptse II 7,827 m (25,679 ft) 27°57′52″ 86°53′34″
Nuptse Shar I 7,804 m (25,604 ft) 27°57′41″ 86°53′47″
Nuptse Nup I 7,784 m (25,538 ft) 27°58′05″ 86°53′08″
Nuptse Shar II 7,776 m (25,512 ft) 27°57′39″ 86°53′55″
Nuptse Nup II 7,742 m (25,400 ft) 27°58′06″ 86°52′54″
Nuptse Shar III 7,695 m (25,246 ft) 27°57′30″ 86°54′42″
Chomo LonzoMakaluEverestTibetan PlateauRong River (Tibet)ChangtseRongbuk GlacierNorth Face (Everest)East Rongbuk GlacierNorth Col north ridge routeLhotseNuptseSouth Col routeGyachung KangCho OyuFile:Himalaya annotated.jpg
Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the International Space Station. (The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages.)

Climbing

Nuptse on the right, Everest to the left
Nuptse from Chukhung Ri

Nuptse was first climbed in 1961 and a few times thereafter.

  • 1961 - First ascent of the North Ridge on May 16 by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi as part of a British expedition led by Joe Walmsley. Tashi was the first human to set foot on the summit as Davis waited to take photos. Davis followed closely after Tashi.[4] On May 17, other members of the same expedition reached the summit: Chris Bonington, Les Brown, James Swallow and Pemba Sherpa.[1][2]
  • 1976 - The Joint British Army-Royal Nepalese Army Nuptse Expedition in an attempt to be the second team atop Nuptse ended in tragedy with the loss of four climbers to falls.[5]
  • 1979 - Ascent of the North Ridge on October 19 by Georges Bettembourg, Doug Scott, Alan Rouse and Brian Hall.[6][7]
  • 1984 - First ascent of the West Ridge by Yvan Estienne, Rémi Roux, et al., an expedition led by Raymond Renaud.
  • 1994 - First ascent of the south pillar of Nuptse Shar I by Frenchmen Michel Fauquet and Vincent Fine, who were stopped by the wind on the summit ridge 300 m (980 ft) from the summit. The climb was nominated for a Piolets d'Or.[8]
  • 2008 - Opening of the south face by Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz; nominated for the Piolets d'Or in 2008.
  • 2017 - Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux open a route on the south face.[9]
  • 2023 - On 8 May, a team of 3 climbers from the US and 6 Sherpas were the first to reach the summit in the year. It is reported that at least 65 climbers in 6 teams have obtained permits for Nuptse.[10]
  • Ueli Steck, Swiss alpinist who died falling from Nuptse

References

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Nuptse.
  1. ^ a b Walmsley, Joe (1961). "Nuptse" (PDF). Alpine Journal. Alpine Club: 209–234. Retrieved 29 April 2014.
  2. ^ a b Bonington, Chris (1962). "Nuptse" (PDF). Journal. XIII (3). The Climber's Club: 306–312. Retrieved 29 April 2014.
  3. ^ "Nuptse". summitpost.org. 2003. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
  4. ^ Davis, D. (1961). "Nuptse: Part II Summit". The Himalayan Journal. 23 (1).
  5. ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, Nepal, Nuptse Tragedy". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  6. ^ Blanchard, B. (1 June 2023). "A Mountain Apart". Alpinist Magazine. Summer 2023 (82): 50–75.
  7. ^ Hall, Brian (2022-07-21). "Epic Descent From Nuptse". Climbing. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  8. ^ "Piolets d'Or - 1992 - 2021". pioletsdor.net. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  9. ^ Franz, D. (2017). "French team completes new route on Nuptse's south face". Alpinist.com Newswire. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
  10. ^ "HG climbers make season's first summit on Nuptse". The Himalayan Times. 8 May 2023. Retrieved 5 November 2023.
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