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Newfoundland (island)

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This is about the island in Canada. For the Canadian province formerly and still colloquially known as Newfoundland, see Newfoundland and Labrador. For other meanings of Newfoundland, see Newfoundland (disambiguation).

Newfoundland
Newfoundland flag (unofficial)
Newfoundland flag (unofficial)
Unofficial flag
File:Fullmapofnewfoundland.gif
Geography
Area: 111,390 km²
Water area: 7,797 km²
Coastline: 9,656 km
Highest Point: Lewis Hills
814m
Longest River: Exploits River
246km
Admin HQ: St. John's
Demographics
Population(2001): 485,066
Largest City: St. John's
99,182
Politics
Government of Newfoundland & Labrador
http://www.gov.nl.ca
Members of the Parliament of Canada: 6
Members of the Senate of Canada: 6
Members of the Parliament of Newfoundland: 44

Newfoundland (French: Terre-Neuve; Irish: Talamh an Éisc; Latin: Terra Nova) is a large island off the north-east coast of North America, and the most populous part of the Canadian province of Newfoundland and Labrador. (The province was called "Newfoundland" until 2001.)

Newfoundland is separated from the Labrador Peninsula by the Strait of Belle Isle and from Cape Breton Island by the Cabot Strait. It blocks the mouth of the Saint Lawrence River, creating the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, the world's largest estuary.

It is 111,390 km2 in area, making it the world's 15th largest island. The provincial capital, St. John's, is found on the southeastern tip of the island. Cape Spear, just south of the capital, is the easternmost point of North America. The island of Newfoundland has an approximate population of 485,000.

The word 'Newfoundland' is pronounced by Newfoundlanders with the second syllable slurred and the accent on the last, (as 'new-f'nd-LAND')and rhymes with "understand". Newfoundland has a dialect of English known as Newfoundland English, a dialect of French known as Newfoundland French and a dialect of Irish known as Newfoundland Irish.

The popular 1993 novel by Annie Proulx, The Shipping News, was mostly set in northernmost Newfoundland.

First Nations

Beothuk means "people" in the Beothuk language. The origins of the Beothuks are uncertain, but it appears that they were an Algonquian group who displaced a Dorset culture on Newfoundland about 1,000 years ago.

The Beothuk tribe of Newfoundland is now extinct, remembered only in museum, historical and archaeological records.

It is likely that the natives described by the Vikings as Skraelings were Beothuk inhabitants of Labrador and Newfoundland. The first conflicts between Europeans and native peoples may have occurred around 1006 at L'Anse aux Meadows when parties of Norseman attempted to establish permanent settlements along the coast of Newfoundland. According to Norse sagas, the native Beothuk (called skraelings or skraelingars by the Norse) responded so ferociously that the newcomers eventually withdrew and apparently gave up their original intentions to settle.

When other Europeans arrived, beginning with John Cabot in 1497, contact with the Beothuks was established. Estimates on the number of Beothuks on the island at this time vary, ranging from 1,000 to 5,000.

Discovery, Colonization, and Settlement

Newfoundland is the site of the only authenticated Viking settlement in North America, discovered by Norwegian explorer Dr. Helge Ingstad and his archaeologist wife, Anne Stine Ingstad, at L'Anse aux Meadows in 1960. The site of a multi-year archaeological dig, the settlement dating to more than 500 years before Christopher Columbus contains the earliest European structures in North America. Named a World Heritage site by UNESCO, it is believed to be the legendary Vinland settlement of explorer Leif Ericson.

After the Vikings, the first European visitors to Newfoundland were Portuguese and English migratory fishermen. Late in the 17th century came Irish fishermen, who named the island Talamh an Éisc, meaning "land of the fish", or "the fishing grounds" in Irish Gaelic. This was to foreshadow the centuries of importance of Newfoundland's offshore fishing waters.

Newfoundland was visited by Giovanni Caboto (John Cabot) in 1497, who landed at either Bonavista or St. John's. It was probably also sighted by Giovanni da Verrazano in 1524, whose expedition was financed by the citizens of Lyon, under the auspices of King François I of France.

A Newfoundland fishing outport

On July 5, 1610, John Guy set sail from Bristol, England with 39 other colonists for Newfoundland. However, early attempts at permanent colonization failed, and only with the growth of the annual migratory fishery from southwest England and southeast Ireland were early permanent settlements established.

French and Basque colonists also arrived to settle on the west coast of Newfoundland. The French called it Terre Neuve.

The name Newfoundland is one of the oldest European place names in Canada in continuous geographical and cartographical use, dating from a 1502 letter, and clearly stated in the following early poem:


A Skeltonicall continued ryme, in praise of my New-found-Land

Although in cloaths, company, buildings faire
With England, New-found-land cannot compare:
Did some know what contentment I found there,
Alwayes enough, most times somewhat to spare,
With little paines, lesse toyle, and lesser care,
Exempt from taxings, ill newes, Lawing, feare,
If cleane, and warme, no matter what you weare,
Healthy, and wealthy, if men carefull are,
With much-much more, then I will now declare,
(I say) if some wise men knew what this were
(I doe beleeue) they'd live no other where.
From 'The First Booke of Qvodlibets'
Composed and done at Harbor-Grace in
Britaniola, anciently called Newfound-Land
By Governor Robert Hayman - 1628.


The European immigrants who settled in Newfoundland brought their knowledge, beliefs, loyalties and prejudices with them, but the society they built in the New World was unlike the ones they had left, and different from the ones other immigrants would build on the American mainland. As a fish-exporting society, Newfoundland was in contact with many places around the Atlantic rim, but its geographic location and political distinctiveness also isolated it from its closest neighbors in Canada and the United States. Internally, most of its population was spread widely around a rugged coastline in small outport settlements, many of them a long distance from larger centers of population and isolated for long periods by winter ice or bad weather. These conditions had an effect on the culture the immigrants had brought with them and generated new ways of thinking and acting, giving Newfoundland and Labrador a wide variety of distinctive customs, beliefs, stories, songs, and dialects.

The First World War had a powerful and lasting effect on the society. From a population of about a quarter of a million, 5,482 men went overseas. Nearly 1,500 were killed and 2,300 wounded. On July 1, 1916, at Beaumont-Hamel, France, 753 men of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment went over the top of a trench. The casualties were staggering; the next morning, only 68 men answered the roll-call. Even now, when the rest of Canada celebrates the founding of the country on July 1, many Newfoundlanders take part in solemn ceremonies of remembrance.

Newfoundland and Labrador is the youngest province in Canada, enjoying the status of a country until 1949. That year, the population voted by a narrow margin to join Canada, whose history, economy, culture and political institutions were significantly different. The Republic of Newfoundland was gone, but not forgotten. The “Pink, White and Green” flag is still flown outside many Newfoundland homes, although it is mistaken by many tourists as the Irish flag. The province’s provincial flag, designed by Newfoundland artist Christopher Pratt, was officially adopted by the provincial legislature on May 28, 1980. Labrador has its own unofficial flag, created in 1973 by Mike Martin, former MLA for Labrador South.


The Ode To Newfoundland

The "Ode To Newfoundland", was Newfoundland's national anthem before the province joined Confederation with Canada. To some extent, it still is the province's anthem; whenever "O Canada" is sung on the Island, the Ode is sung.


When sun rays crown thy pine clad hills,
And summer spreads her hand,
When silvern voices tune thy rills,
We love thee smiling land,
We love thee, we love thee
We love thee smiling land.


When spreads thy cloak of shimm'ring white,
At winter's stern command,
Thro' shortened day and starlit night,
We love thee frozen land,
We love thee, we love thee,
We love thee frozen land.


When blinding storm gusts fret thy shore,
And wild waves lash thy strand,
Thro' sprindrift swirl and tempest roar,
We love thee windswept land,
We love thee, we love thee,
We love thee windswept land.


As loved our fathers, so we love,
Where once they stood we stand,
Their prayer we raise to heav'n above,
God guard thee, Newfoundland,
God guard thee, God guard thee,
God guard thee, Newfoundland.

Points of Interest and Major Settlements

Cod, the traditional mainstay of Newfoundland fisheries

Being one of the first places discovered in the New World, Newfoundland has a rich history. St. John's is considered to be the oldest city in North America.

Newfoundland is home to two national parks. Gros Morne National Park is located on the west coast of Newfoundland and was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987 due to its complex geology and remarkable scenery. It is the largest national park in Atlantic Canada at 1,805 km² (697 sq. mi.). Terra Nova National Park, on the island's east side, preserves the rugged geography of the Bonavista Bay region and allows visitors to explore the historic interplay of land, sea and man.

Stephenville, a town of about 8000, once served as an airport base for the US army in the early 1940s. It is about 20 miles north of its former train station, which is surrounded by the town of Stephenville Crossing.

Also on the West Coast, Corner Brook is situated in the Bay of Islands region. The major industry in Corner Brook is newsprint manufacturing, and is serviced by the Corner Brook Pulp and Paper Mill.

Sandy Point, which is located in Bay Saint George and north of the town of St. George's, was the first and largest settlement of the west coast. However, the last settler, Alphonsus Swyers, was forced to abandon in 1973.

Island of Newfoundland

Barachois Brook Park is a provincial park that is considered to be a model forest.

Marble Mountain is a major attraction in the winter for skiers. It is said to be the best skiing east of the Rocky Mountains.

In March, the annual seal hunt (of the harp seal) takes place.

Newfoundland is also host to a well-recognized university, Memorial University of Newfoundland, based in St. John's.

Newfoundland, 1800 miles from Ireland, is the only place outside Europe to have its own distinctive name in the Irish language.

Largest communities (2001 population)

  1. St. John's (98,182)
  2. Mount Pearl (24,964)
  3. Corner Brook (20,103)
  4. Conception Bay South (19,772)
  5. Grand Falls-Windsor (13,340)
  6. Gander (9,651)
  7. Paradise (9,598)
  8. Stephenville (7,109)
  9. Marystown (5,908)
  10. Portugal Cove-St. Philip's (5,866)
  11. Torbay (5,474)
  12. Bay Roberts (5,237)
  13. Clarenville (5,104)
  14. Deer Lake (4,769)
  15. Carbonear (4,759)
  16. Channel-Port aux Basques (4,637)
  17. Placentia (4,426)
  18. Bonavista (4,021)
  19. Bishop's Falls (3,688)

Further reading

  • Prowse, D.W. 2002. A History of Newfoundland. Boulder Publications, Portugal Cove, Newfoundland.
  • Neary, Peter. 1996. Newfoundland in the North Atlantic world, 1929-1949. McGill-Queen's University Press, Montreal, Quebec.
  • Gibbons, Henry K. 1997. The Myth and Mystery of John Cabot: The Discoverer of North America. Marten Cat Publishers, Port Aux Basques, Newfoundland.
  • Harris, Michael. 1992. Rare Ambition: The Crosbies of Newfoundland. Penguin. ISBN 0-14-023220-6

See also