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Montrose, Angus

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Montrose
Population10,845 (2001 Census)
OS grid referenceNO715575
Council area
Lieutenancy area
CountryScotland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townMONTROSE
Postcode districtDD10
Dialling code01674
PoliceScotland
FireScottish
AmbulanceScottish
UK Parliament
Scottish Parliament
List of places
UK
Scotland

Montrose is a coastal resort town and former royal burgh in Angus, Scotland. It is situated 38 miles (61 km) north east of Dundee between the mouths of the North and South Esk rivers. It is the northernmost coastal town in Angus and developed at a natural harbour that traded in skins, hides and cured salmon in medieval times.

With a population of approximately 12,000, the town functions as a port, but the major employer is GlaxoSmithKline, recently saved from closure.[1] The skyline of Montrose is dominated by the 220 foot steeple, designed by James Gillespie Graham and built between 1832 and 1834.

Montrose is a town with a wealth of architecture, and is a centre for international trade. It is an important commercial port for the thriving oil and gas industry. The town itself has the widest high street in Scotland.[citation needed]"Montrose High Street". {{cite news}}: Unknown parameter |curly= ignored (help) This has picturesque closes leading to secluded gardens. The town has a view of a two-mile tidal lagoon, Montrose Basin, which is considered a nature reserve of international importance. It is also the largest inland salt water basin in the UK, and an important habitat for the mute swan. Just outside Montrose is the 18th Century House of Dun, designed by the Scottish architect William Adam (architect) and built in 1730 for David Erskine, 13th Laird of Dun.

History

Toponymy and Early History

Prehistoric elements are found in the vicinity of Montrose, including the Stone of Morphie located to the north.[2] One ancient name for Montrose was Celurca[3]. Early place names appear to show the presence of a Norse settlement in the area of the present harbour. The Norse settlement was named Stroma which translates as 'Tide race river', referring to the speed of the tidal emptying and filling of the aforementioned basin, (est 9 Knots). It is claimed that the name Montrose stems from 'Mouth Hrossay' due to the location at the outlets of the River Esk near Rossie Island (Norse: horse island). However the etymology is more often attributed to the gaelic words Monadh (meaning moor) and Rois or Ros (meaning peninsula or promontory). The first documentary evidence of the existence of Montrose is the burgh charter issued by David I who founded the town around 1140 as Sallorch or Sallork[4]. By 1178 the name had taken the form Munross before becoming Montrose[5].

Mediaeval History

Montrose was visited and plundered in numerous instances instances by Danes. In the year 980 it was sacked and razed to the ground[6]. It was once believed that a castle existed in Montrose in the tenth century and was destroyed by Kenneth III. However this historical account has been disputed[7].

In the two proceeding centuries there are no precise dates in its history. During the 1140s it was an important trading town. The trading revenues received from Montrose as well as Forfar and Dundee were acquired by Malcolm IV and contributed to Restenneth Priory[8]. In 1178 William the Lion built a castle nearby in which he would occassionally reside. The ruins have acquired the name Red Castle. The last record of a charter there was in 1198[9]. A convent dedicated to the Virgin Mary is said to have been founded in 1230 by Alan Durward but the precise location is unknown[10]. In 1244 the town succumbed to fire[11].

In July 1296[12] during the Wars of Independence, Edward I visited the town with 30,000 of his men and stayed at Munros castle for three nights. Some accounts state that it was there that he humiliated Scottish King John de Balliol by publicly stripping him of his Royal insignia and status; other accounts claim that this occured in Brechin[13]. Twelve burghesses of the town swore allegiance to Edward I[14] to protect themselves and the community of the town[15]. The following year the castle, which was manned by an English garrison, was destroyed by William Wallace who is said to have slain all soldiers in sight[16]. The site of the castle, known as Castlestead, is at the southern end of the High Street. David II visited it towards the end of his reign in 1371[17]. The Dukedom of Montrose was created in 1488.

During the 15th century the inhabitants of the town found themselves increasingly under heel of the Lairds of Dun who ransacked and took possession of property and cattle. The lairds are said to have arrived in the middle of one night on horseback and heavily armed. The burghesses of the town immediately sent out an appeal to the Duke of Montrose for protection but the messenger was purportedly murdered before the appeal arrived. It was then that James IV of Scotland intervened and settled the matter.[18].

The Steeple, Montrose.

It is said that Sir James Douglas embarked from here for Jerusalem with the heart of King Robert the Bruce.[citation needed]

Modern History

From its early inception as a port Montrose had traded in skins, hides and cured salmon but in the 17th century began to export wheat and barley in regular trading transactions with the Hanseatic League. The town imported flax and timber from the Baltic; salt, fruit and wine from France and Portugal[19]. The wealth this brought to the town is demonstrated in the surviving houses built by landowning and merchant families as well as local street names of "America Street", "California Street", "Baltic Street" and "India Street" evidencing its trading heritage.

The site of the castle, now known as Castlestead was the birthplace of the famous James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. Graham signed the National Covenant against Charles I's reorganisation of the Kirk in Scotland, fighting in the ensuing Bishops' Wars, but later switched to the King's side only to be captured and executed in Edinburgh in the year 1650.

The final chapter of the ill-fated 1715 Jacobite rebellion was also played out in Montrose After the short lived uprising on 4 February 1716 Prince James Francis Edward Stuart (the Old Pretender) arrived in Montrose, where he spent his last night in Scotland. He sailed from Montrose to his final exile in France. The town was held for his son, Prince Charles Edward Stuart, 30 years later and in February 1746 the largest naval battle of the war was fought in Montrose Harbour.

During the 18th century the town was a major smuggling centre. It profited from the slave trade but only for a brief time. Samuel Johnson made a tour of the town on his visit to Scotland in the 1770s. He said of it:

"...we travelled on to Montrose, which we surveyed in the morning and found it well-built, airy, and clean. The town house is a handsome fabrick with a portico. We then went to view the English chapel, and found it a small church, clean to a degree unknown in any other part of Scotland, with commodius galleries, and what was yet less expected, with an organ."[20].

Alexander Christie (c1721-1794) was provost in the town during the 1760s and 1780s and oversaw the establishment of Scotland's first Lunatic Asylum in Montrose in 1781[21] which became Sunnyside Royal Hospital.

Wealthy merchants in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries dominated the town and built their houses gable to gable. Hence Montrosians have inherited the sobriquet, "gable-enders"[22].

During World War II Montrose became a hub for a constant stream of international pilots from all over the Commonwealth, Poland, Czechoslovakia, America, Russia, France and other allied nations. As well as a training base Montrose was also an operational airfield for Hawker Hurricane and Supermarine Spitfire squadrons, which flew sorties over Norway and were a part of the air defences for Edinburgh. Of course, this also made the town a target for German aircraft and it was bombed on more than one occasion. Despite its coastal location presenting a danger however, large numbers of children and young mothers from Dundee were evacuated there during the period of the Phoney War. Initially numbers totalled around 2,000 but in a second wave around 1,200 more were sent[23]. As was the case in many other receiving areas, the local population was concerned by the condition of the urban poor and impetigo and vermin were found on some of those evacuated. By June 1940 Montrose could no longer provide shelter[24]. The presence of Dundee families in Montrose during wartime convinced a number to settle there[25]. This altered the demographics of the town and led to the building of housing estates in the 1960s.

Bamse

Bamse is Montrose's very own war hero and is buried in the town. The St Bernard dog from Norway stole the hearts of all who knew him, especially children. When he died in July 1944, Montrose schools were closed and 800 children lined the route to his graveside funeral. Bamse (meaning bear) arrived in Montrose on the minesweeper Thorodd during World War ll with Captain Erling Hafto, his owner, who registered him as a crew member. In Montrose, the stories of his exploits are numerous and legendary. He saved the life of Lieutenant Commander Olav Nilsen at Dundee Docks and generally looked after his fellow sailors. If anyone started a fight with one of his crew, Bamse got up on his hind legs and at over six foot tall, clamped his great paws on the assailant to end any fight. The Bamse Project raised £50,000 to erect a larger than life-size bronze statue of Bamse at Montrose Harbour. Half the donations came from Norway. The statue was created by internationally known sculptor Alan Herriot, and was unveiled by Prince Andrew in October 2007 in front of hundreds of spectators.Montrose is a very peace full town and full of history.

Geography and Natural Features

Montrose is positioned between the cities of Dundee and Aberdeen on the east coast. The expanse of the town extends to the villages on its fringes; Hillside and Ferryden. It lies close to the hamlets of Lunan and St Cyrus. The rural location ensures that the air quality is good, with low levels of nitrogen dioxide and PM10[26].

Montrose Basin

Montrose Basin

Main Article: Montrose Basin

The Montrose Basin is a shallow estuary approximately three kilometres in diameter.[27]. In 1981 it became the Montrose Basin Nature Reserve[28].

The Scottish Wildlife Trust operates a modern, purpose-built wildlife centre at Rossie Braes, which offers good telescopic and televisual views of the area, and of the thousands of migratory birds which pass through the area in all seasons.

In Summer, one might see the osprey which hunts along the length of the Basin, or a kingfisher flitting past. The artificial sand-martin bank is a hive of activity all Spring and early Summer. One can watch the blue tits and swallows inside their nests, and take in the panoramic vista of the rolling Angus countryside and hills.

In October and November there are 38,000 birds using the basin[29]. In Winter, 20,000 pink-foot geese take up residence on the mudflats, feeding in the nearby fields by day, and returning to the safety of the Basin in the evening. The haunting fluting of their calls are beloved of local people, for whom the sound marks the turning of the seasons. The many feeders attract brightly coloured field and garden birds, and the occasional woodpecker.

Montrose Beach

Montrose Beach

The 3 mile long sandy beach has been awarded a Blue Flag for its eco credentials[30]. The surrounding Traill Pavillion and Seafront Splash! facilities with an arcade, a playground, a café and an ice-cream stall is popular amongst locals and visitors alike. North of the town the River North Esk enters the North Sea across the beach.

Demography

Since the Second World War the population of Montrose has increased. Notably there is an increasing elderly population. This is reflected in the profusion of nursing and residential homes and in recent plans to extend provision for sheltered housing[31]. However there has been a commensurate increase in the number of immigrants in recent years, particularly from Eastern Europe. Data published by Scottish Neighbourhood Statistics in 2008 records the population of Montrose & District as 15,013 which is around 18% of the population of Angus as a whole. Of this total 17.6% are children, 60% are of working age and 22% are pensioners. Around 12% of those who live in the town are unemployed and 14.1% of households are "income deprived"[32].

Economy

Glaxo Montrose

The economy of the town has been expanding since the end of the Second World War. GlaxoSmithKline has been a major source of jobs since the 1950s[33]. Other significant employers include Tesco, Somerfield, Petrofac and Merpro. Argos has recently opened an outlet in the town. In 2009 Sainsbury's announced plans to build a new superstore on the edge of the town which will provide work for an estimated 200 people[34]. The average price of housing in the town is between £106,054 and £131,539[35]. In 1998 the average was between £42,640 and £51,200[36].

Tourism

Since 2002 there has been a focus on attracting new visitors to the town with the foundation of the Montrose Town Partnership which aims to "encourage representatives of the public, private and community sector to act together to develop the economic potential of Montrose to address the needs of local people and visitors alike"[37]. Membership includes The Montrose Society, Montrose Heritage Trust, Montrose Community Council, Montrose Golf Links Ltd, MERPRO Leisure, Montrose Business and Retailers Association, Scottish Wildlife Trust, Dunninald and Angus Council, Ferryden & Craig and Hillside, Dun and Logie Pert community councils.[38]. Since 2002 they have produced a number of promotional leaflets and have established a weekly Saturday market in the town centre[39]. In 2002 plans were unveiled to renovate the Mid Links[40]. The project was completed in 2003 at the total cost of £1.8million with £1.2million granted by the Heritage Lottery Fund[41]. Plaques have been incorporated to inform visitors of the historical heritage of the town's buildings. In 2009 the council made a bid to improve the appearance of the town centre with solar panelled lamps with a moving banner, new benches and a decorative arch[42]. Montrose Museum will be refurbished in October 2009 with work completed before Summer 2010 adding disabled toilet facilities, wheelchair access, a loop system and special lighting for the visually impaired[43].

Culture

Cultural History

Montrose is regarded as the culture and sculpture capital of Angus[44], with over 20 statues of note scattered around the town. The statues are a mix of contemporary and classical works, with many from the noted local sculptor, William Lamb (artist) ARSA. Lamb was born in Montrose in 1893 and was an artist of exceptional talent.

In Montrose from the 1920s to 1940s, local architect George Fairweather’s studio provided a forum for lively debate by an artistic community that included Hugh MacDiarmid, Edwin Muir, William Lamb (artist), Helen Cruickshank and Fionn MacColla. The local weekly newspaper, the Montrose Review, was edited by Hugh MacDiarmid.

Music

The first Montrose Music Festival took place over the weekend of Friday 31 May - Sunday 1 June 2008 and was an overwhelming success, bringing thousands of visitors and an estimated £500,000 boost to the local economy. The main attraction of the inaugural festival was the Friday night opening concert by the legendary Average White Band, regarded by many as the perfect band to open the first festival because of Montrose's connection with original AWB saxophonist's Malcolm Duncan (musician). During the Saturday and Sunday, the music moved into the pubs and hotels with over 60 free entry gigs over the two days, with acts of varying genres entertaining thousands of music fans. Amongst these acts were harmonica player Fraser Speirs, Scottish folk band Malinky and alt-rock band Lights Action. Scottish band Deacon Blue headlined the 2009 festival.[citation needed] The 2009 festival took place over the weekend of Thursday 28th – Sunday 31 May and was attended by some 8000 people.

The Links Hotel hosts regular jazz, blues and funk nights; classical music concerts; DJ's and cabaret acts[45]. The Montrose Folk Club's fortnightly Tuesday session at the Links Hotel, has previously presented Jim Malcolm, former singer with the Old Blind Dogs[46].

Sport

Montrose also has the 5th oldest golf course in the world, the Montrose Medal, dating from 1562. It is also a qualifying course for The Open Championship. Past events hosted on the Montrose Links include:

  • Scottish Professional Championship, 1909, 1967, 1970
  • Scottish Amateur Championship, 1905, 1913, 1919, 1926 and 1925
  • British Boys Championship, 1991; Scottish Universities Championship
  • Final Qualifying for The Open, 1999 and 2007.

Montrose F.C. are members of the Scottish Football League and currently play in the Third Division. Montrose Roselea F.C. are a Scottish junior football, Formed in 1930 and nicknamed "the Lea", they play their home games at Broomfield Park. Other sports associations include the Montrose Cricket Club, Montrose & District SEALS Swimming Club, Montrose & District Athletics, Rugby union club and several bowls clubs which are part of the Montrose & District Bowling Club Association.

In Montrose Sports Centre there are a number of sports clubs including karate and gymnastics (M.A.G.I.C).

Annual Events

Montrose at Christmas.

The first Sunday of every August Montrose hosts a Highland Games when the Rose Queen and attendants are traditionally presented. The Montrose Round Table hosts a firework display on Bonfire Night in the Links; the proceeds of which go to local charities. The town has recently started a beer festival[47].

Education

Main Article: Montrose Academy

The town has a number of Primary Schools (Lochside, Borrowfield, St Margaret's, Ferryden, Rosemount and Southesk) and one secondary school, Montrose Academy.

Montrose Academy is a secondary school in Angus, Scotland established in 1815. It has a school roll of around 1000 students, with a staff roll of 100. Most of its pupils come from the associated Primary Schools of Borrowfield, Ferryden, Lochside, Rosemount, Southesk and St Margaret’s.

The Academy's most famous feature is the gold dome on top of the original building. Originally the dome was copper, but was covered in gold leaf as a war memorial, paid for by Miss Blanche Mearns to commemorate her brother who had died in World War II. The dome, which is locked off has been said to be haunted by many ghosts. However there are no reports of anything paranormal happening in the area. It features on the school's badge, a gold dome on the maroon blazer. The school tie is broad stripes of maroon and gold. The school has two war memorials, located on the east exterior wall of the Assembly Hall, bearing the names of former pupils who died in both world wars.

Religious Sites

Christian Groups

There are many churches in Montrose. Three belong to the Church of Scotland: Montrose Old and St Andrew's ('Auld Kirk'), Melville-South Parish Church, Dun and Hillside Church. There are two United Free Churches: Knox's Church and Ferryden Church. In the Links there is an Episcopal Church (St Mary's and St Peter's) the United Reform Church and Methodist Church nearby. In Borrowfield there is a Baptist Church and Mormon Church. A Quaker group meets in the town. The Roman Catholic community is served by St Margaret's Roman Catholic Church.

The most prominent church is the St Andrew's Church of 'Auld Kirk'. Reverand Dr Charles Nisbet who became minister in 1764 described it as a church which "embraced much cultivation and intelligence"[48].

Non-Christian Groups

A Kingdom Hall for Jehovah's Witnesses lies on the edge of the town.

Notable connections

Twin Towns

History and Tourism

Photographs

See also

References

  1. ^ GlaxoSmithKline Montrose Plant Reprieve
  2. ^ C. Michael Hogan, Stone of Morphie, 2007, Megalithic Portal, ed. Andy Burnham
  3. ^ Mitchell (1866), p1
  4. ^ "The Royal Burgh of Montrose", Angus Council
  5. ^ A.D Mills, A Dictionary of British Place-Names. Oxford University Press. 2003. ISBN 0198527586
  6. ^ Mitchell (1866), p6
  7. ^ Andrew Jervise, "Memorials of Angus and the Mearns"
  8. ^ Andrew Jervise, "Memorials of Angus and the Mearns"
  9. ^ Mitchell (1866), p8
  10. ^ Andrew Jervise, "Memorials of Angus and the Mearns"
  11. ^ Mitchell (1866), p8
  12. ^ Angus Council, "The Royal Burgh of Montrose"
  13. ^ Andrew Jervise, "Memorials of Angus and the Mearns"
  14. ^ Mitchell (1866), p8
  15. ^ Andrew Jervise, "Memorials of Angus and the Mearns"
  16. ^ Mitchell (1866), p8
  17. ^ Andrew Jervise, "Memorials of Angus and the Mearns"
  18. ^ Mitchell (1866), p8
  19. ^ "The Royal Burgh of Montrose", Angus Council
  20. ^ Samuel Johnson, The Works of Samuel Johnson (1823), p239
  21. ^ [http://www.angus.gov.uk/history/features/people/alexanderchristie.htm Angus Council, "Provost Alexander Christie of Montrose (c 1721-1794)"
  22. ^ Alan Murphy, Scotland, Footprint Travel Guides. 2004, p504
  23. ^ Forbes Inglis, "An Invasion of Montrose", Montrose Review, August 20, 2009.
  24. ^ Forbes Inglis, "An Invasion of Montrose", Montrose Review, August 20, 2009.
  25. ^ Forbes Inglis, "An Invasion of Montrose", Montrose Review, August 20, 2009.
  26. ^ Source: Scottish Neighbourhood Statistics [1]
  27. ^ N. W. H. Allsop, Breakwaters, Coastal Structures and Coastlines, Institution of Civil Engineers, 2002, Thomas Telford publisher, 520 pages ISBN 07277304
  28. ^ [2] Angus Council, "Nature Reserve Comes of Age", June 20, 2002
  29. ^ [3] Angus Council, "Nature Reserve Comes of Age", June 20, 2002
  30. ^ http://www.bw-linkshotel.co.uk/Beaches.asp The Links Hotel. Retrieved on 27th August 2009.
  31. ^ [4] Angus Council, "Sheltered Housing for Montrose", November 6, 2001.
  32. ^ Source: Scottish Neighbourhood Statistics.[5]
  33. ^ [6], "Angus Council, Day Out At Seafront Splash For Pupils", June 21, 2002
  34. ^ Montrose Review, August 20, 2009.
  35. ^ Source: Scottish Neighbourhood Statistics 2008. [7]
  36. ^ Source: Scottish Neighbourhood Statistics. [8]
  37. ^ [9] Angus Council, "Montrose Partnership News", December 13, 2004
  38. ^ [10] Angus Council, "Montrose Partnership News", December 13, 2004
  39. ^ [11] Angus Council, "Montrose Town Partnership", December 11, 2001
  40. ^ [12] Angus Council, "Mid Links Restoration Plans to go on display", June 6, 2002.
  41. ^ [13] Angus Council, "Mid Links Montrose", December 24, 2003
  42. ^ Angus Community Planning. Retrieved on September 2, 2009
  43. ^ Angus Community Planning. Retrieved on September 2, 2009
  44. ^ "Draft Amendment to the Downtown Enhancement Plan". Retrieved on September 11, 2009.
  45. ^ http://www.linkshotelmusic.com/ Links Hotel Music.
  46. ^ "New tricks from an 'old dog'", Montrose Review, August 20, 2009.
  47. ^ "Table delighted with beer fest", Montrose Review, August 27, 2009.
  48. ^ Samuel Miller, "Memoir of the Rev. Charles Nisbet, D.D.: late president of Dickinson college, Carlisle", (1840).
  49. ^ Helen Cruickshark biography
  50. ^ Montrose Review, August 27, 2009
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