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Kanzashi

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Kanzashi are hair ornaments used in traditional Japanese hairstyles. Kanzashi first appeared when women abandoned the tradional taregami hairstyle where the hair was kept straight and long, and adopted coiffured nihongami hairstyles. Kanzashi came into wide use during the Edo period when artisans began to produce more finely crafted products. Some believe they may also have been used for defence in an emergency.

Nowadays, kanzashi are most often worn by brides and professional kimono wearers such as geisha, tayu and yujo or adepts in Japanese tea ceremony and ikebana. However, there is currently a revival among young Japanese women who wish to add an elegant touch to their business suit.

Kanzashi are fabricated from a wide range of materials such as lacquered wood, gold and silver plated metal, tortoiseshell and silk, and recently plastic also. In fact, early bakelite kanzashi are extremely collectible.

There are many varieties and many styles of wearing them. The way in which a geisha wears her kanzashi indicates her status immediately to an informed audience; according to the type and location of the kanzashi. Maiko (apprentice geisha) usually wear more numerous and elaborate kanzashi than older geisha and progress through several hairstyles where the kanzashi must be worn in a fixed pattern.

Types of Kanzashi

There are several basic kanzashi styles, along with more complex hana (flower) and seasonal arrangements as well

Basic Kanzashi

  • Bira bira - also called Fluttering or Dangling style, these are composed of metal strips attached by rings to the body of the ornament so that they move independently, pleasantly tinkling (which is sometimes accentuated by additional bells) or long chains of silk flowers.
  • Kogai - also called Chopsticks style, are specialised hair sticks which pull apart in the middle in order that they may be more easily inserted into the hair. They were originally worn by Japanese men as well as women, possibly as a hair scratching device. Yujo are recognisable by the multitude of kogai worn, whereas geisha would not have been permitted to wear more than a pair.
  • Kushi - also called Comb style, these are usually rounded combs made of tortoiseshell or lacquered wood, often with inlaid mother of pearl or gilding, placed into a mage (bun-style hairdo). The spine of the comb is often wide in order to allow maximum space for the design, and in many cases, the design will extend into the teeth.
  • Kanoko Dome - are heavily jewelled accessories crafted with some or all of the following: gold, silver, tortoiseshell, jade, coral, pearls and other semi-precious stones. While the general shape is rounded, they are also found in other shapes, with flowers and butterflies being the most popular. The kanoko dome is worn at the back of the wareshinobu hairstyle worn by junior maiko and has two prongs that hold it securely in the "mage".
  • Ōgi - also called Princess style, they are metal, fan-shaped and kamon-imprinted kanzashi with aluminium streamers held in place by a long pin. These are usually worn by maiko in the hair just above the temple. Very junior maiko wear two.

Hana Kanzashi

With Hana kanzashi, the long fluttering flower is characteristic of maiko. These are created by Japanese artisans from squares of silk by a technique known as tsumami. Each square is multiply folded with the aid of pincers and cut into a single petal. These are attached to backings of metal to create whole flowers, or attached to silken threads to create strings of blossom. Butterflies and birds are also common in this art form. Additional detailing of stamens is created by the use of mizuhiki, which is a strong thin twine made from washi paper, and is often coloured and used for decorative works.

Geisha wear different hana kanzashi according to the month, or public holiday. In the summer months (June to September), jade ornaments with white or silver themes are worn. During the winter months (October to May), tortoiseshell and coral kanzashi are worn.

Seasonal Kanzashi

The seasons dictate which kind of hair ornament is worn in Japan. Usually this applies above all to the geisha, who tend to be the only Japanese women to wear kanzashi often enough for seasonal changes to be noticeable. Since maiko wear more kanzashi than senior geisha, seasonal changes are even more important for them.

  • January - The design of January kanzashi differs from year to year, but usually has an auspicious Japanese New Year theme. Shouchikubai is a popular choice, a combination of pine, bamboo and ume blossom, (green, red and white) which is usually associated with celebrations.
  • February - Usually trailing deep pink ume blossom, which is to be seen everywhere in Japan at this time and symbolises young love and the approach of spring. Daffodils or narcissi are a less common theme.
  • March - Trailing yellow and white rape blossoms (nanohana) and butterflies.
  • April - Trailing soft pink cherry blossom (sakura) and butterflies, signalling the approach of summer. Cherry Blossom Viewing at this time of year is a major cultural event in Japan.
  • May - Trailing purple wisteria (fuji) and flag irises, usually of the blue variety. Irises denote the height of spring.
  • June - Trailing green willow leaves with pink blooms, or less commonly hydrangea flowers. Willow is a traditional image associated with geisha. This month is the rainy season in Japan and therefore willow (a water loving tree) and the washy blue of hydrangea is appropriate.
  • July - Kanzashi featuring a display of fans. These will usually be of the round uchiya variety, but occasionally folding dancing fans are also featured. The fans refer to the Gion Festival which takes place at this time, a huge event held at the Gion geisha district in Kyoto, which involves hundreds of tradional dances by geisha. Fans are a staple component of traditional Japanese dance. The fans featured in a maiko's July kanzashi varies each year, in line with the Festival. There are common themes such as dragonflies and lines denoting swirling water.
  • August - Purple morning glory or pampas grass. The pampas grass appears as a starburst of spines. Senior maiko wear silver-white and junior maiko wear pink or red.
  • September - Japanese bellflower. Purple tones are traditionally associated with autumn.
  • October - Chrysanthemum. These are well loved in Japan, and are a symbol of the Imperial Family. Usually the chrysanthemums featured are red and white, a combination which signals the height of autumn.
  • November - Trailing autumnal leaves. These may be a generic yellow leaf or the characteristic red maple leaf. Maple viewing is the autumnal equivalent in Japan of cherry blossom viewing.
  • December - The Japanese make mochi at this time of year, and often decorate trees with them, to represent white flowers. It is thought to be good luck to wear kanzashi featuring mochibana or ricecake flowers. December kanzashi also feature two maneki which are tiny blank scrolls. Traditionally maiko visit the Minamiza Theatre and ask two of their favourite Kabuki actors to autograph them with their Kabuki nom de plume.
  • New Year - At this time of year all maiko and geisha wear unhusked rice ears on the right side of their coiffure. These kanzashi also feature eyeless white doves. The maiko and geisha fill in one eye and ask somebody they like to draw the other.
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