Pannier (clothing)
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Panniers or side hoops are women's undergarments worn in the eighteenth century to extend the width of the skirts at the side while leaving the front and back flat. This provided a flat panel where boldly scaled woven patterns or rich embroidery could be fully appreciated.
History
The style originated in Spanish court dress of the seventeenth century, familiar in portraits by Velázquez. The fashion spred to France and from there to the rest of Europe after circa 1718-1719, after some Spanish dresses had been displayed in Paris.
By mid-eighteenth century it had been developed into the robe à la française, which ensured that a woman took up three times as much space as a man and always presented an imposing spectacle. At their most extreme, in the French court of Marie Antoinette, panniers could extend the skirt several feet at each side. By the 1780s onward, however, panniers were normally worn only to very formal evening gowns and within court fashion.
The name comes from panniers, a French term for wicker baskets (paniers in current French) slung on either side of a pack animal.
See also
References
- R. Broby-Johanssen (in Swedish): Kropp och kläder. Klädedräktens historia (Body and clothes. The history of clothing) (1994)
External links
- Eighteenth-Century Silhouette and Support at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
- The Costumer's Manifesto: The Cut of Women's Clothes 1700-1800
- Paniers
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