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Hikimi wasabi

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Hikimi Wasabi

Hikimi Wasabi is the one of the breed varieties which is cultivated in Hikimi Town of Masuda City, Shimane Prefecture, Japan.

Keiryu Style fields. This style is widely used around the Chugoku Mountains; Shimane, Yamaguchi, Hyogo, Okayama, and Hiroshima Prefectures.Therefore, it is also called The Chugokusankei System. The fields are made along mountain streams using the natural geographical features.
When it snows, flowing water usually dissolves the snow, but sometimes the fields are covered with the snow.
Repairing Keiryu Style wasabi fields. The fields are mostly located in places which heavy machinery can’t access. So, farmers usually maintain the fields by hand.
A farmer going to his wasabi fields to harvest. He sometimes must walk more than one hour to reach the fields on rough slopes of mountain trails along the valley. All he brings is a basket to carry the harvested wasabi.
A farmer’s wife, helping her husband to harvest Hikimi wasabi. Her husband digs up wasabi, and she prepares them for shipment.
Freshly harvested Hikimi wasabi. After the harvest, farmers bring wasabi home, remove the fibrous roots, and prepare for shipment.

Uses

Wasabi in paste form, usually served in sushi restaurants.The evaluation of the color and the taste of grated Hikimi wasabi. From the left, Hikimi wasabi (Daijin species), Hikimi wasabi (native species) and Wasabi from Shizuoka Prefecture (Mazuma species). All of them are three-year old roots. Residents of Kanto District (in the Western area) prefer deep green wasabi; whereas residents of the Kansai District (in the Eastern area) prefer light green or yellow wasabi[1].
Kinjirushi Co., the largest company of processed wasabi, manufactures and sells two different colors of powdered wasabi for business use.
- Left side：Eastern Japan style / model number V-118
Barcode 903665 009226
- Right side：Western Japan style / model number V-18
Barcode 903665 009127
Shoyu-zuke(soy sauce pickles). Carefully selected shoots of wasabi. Only those with a good texture are used for Shoyu-zuke. The shoots of wasabi are known as "Ganime" by locals[2], and treated as a luxury ingredient...[3]. Each family has their own Shoyu-zuke recipe for keeping the wasabi flavor for as long as possible.
Kagura being performed at the Wasabi Shrine. The title of this performance is Yamaaoi Tengu, and it is well known as a Wasabi Kagura. A demon, an anthropomorphized form of disease and some insects, attacks a wasabi farmer in one of the scene. These days, smoke is also used to be more dramatic. A crow-billed goblin slays the demon, and the story comes to a happy ending.
A replica of an old document, allegedly written by the feudal lord Mouri Terumoto(1553-1625). The document is preserved at Myourinji temple in Yamaguchi Prefecture, and describes how Masuda Motonaga, the 20th feudal lord of the Masuda area, which included Hikimi, during the Edo era, entertained and impressed Mouri Terumoto with wasabi cuisine[4].
A replica of “Iwami Gaiki” which was compiled in 1820 by Nakagawa Akisuke, a scholar retained by a Hamada feudal lord. The original book is preserved at the Mononobe Shrine, founded in the year 513, in Oda City, Shimane Prefecture. According to the description, wasabi was also called Yamaaoi, and produced in the mountain area of Hikimi, and the book also refers to the pharmacological effects of wasabi[5].
Recipe of Uzume meshiThis recipe for 'Uzume meshi' is from 'Hagi no Ikai', which is a local group that aims to preserve the traditional cuisine of the town of Hikimi. The recipe is as follows[6]:
1.Ingredients: burdock roots, taro, carrots, fried tofu, nameko mushrooms and chicken cut into small cubes.
2.Boil the ingredients in a dashi broth made from bonito flaks, kelp, soy sauce and sweet sake, and thicken with potato starch.
3.Put the boiled ingredients in a bowl with a little of the broth, and then top with some grated wasabi.
4.Cover the ingredients with rice, then decorate with some Japanese parsley leaves on top, and you’re finished.

Wasabi cultivation in Hikimi began in 1818[7] (Bunsei gannen) and by the early Showa era (1926 - 1989) reached an annual production of 300 metric tons (330.7 US tons). Of the wasabi from Shimane, 90% came from the town of Hikimi[8][9]. At the time, Shimane Prefecture was known as one of the top producers of wasabi in Japan.[8][9]The two top areas of wasabi production were Shizuoka Prefecture in the East and Shimane Prefecture in the West[8][9]. However, Hikimi’s wasabi production declined due to numerous factors including two large floods since the 1970s, recent generations of farming families choose different careers, and global warming[8][9]. In recent years, new residents of Hikimi have been attempting to revive the production of Hikimi wasabi[8][10]. In 2013, Shimane Prefecture produced 74.5 metric tons of wasabi (70.2 metric tons were soil-grown wasabi, 4.3 metric tons were water-grown wasabi). That’s fifth most in Japan, but far behind the top 3 prefectures, Shizuoka (867.6 metric tons), Nagano (604.7 metric tons) and Iwate (432.7 metric tons)[11]. Shimane prefecture known as its Hikimi Wasabi. Due to this small amount, Hikimi wasabi is now considered to be fairly rare[12].

Hikimi Wasabi and Climate

Japan, except for the Hokkaido region, is in the subtropical high pressure belt; a unique area in the world rich in water despite being located at a latitude which often is desert[13]. When winter comes, rainfall often turns into snowfall, and the Japan Sea side of the mainland (Honshu Island) has one of the highest amounts of snow at that latitude or lower in the world[14]. Hikimi is located in the southwestern tip of this heavy snow fall area in Japan[15]. Snow acts as insulation to help protect wasabi from frost during the winter.? Snow also functions as natural dams, keeping water plentiful, which is good for growing wasabi. Hikimi also is humid and being in the mountains has less daylight hours throughout the year[16]. A species native to Japan, wasabi was originally distributed mainly around the Japan Sea side of Honshu[2]. It grows much better in areas with high humidity and short daylight than in areas with strong sunlight and high temperatures[17]. With all these favorable factors existing in Hikimi, wasabi grows naturally and has been used by the local people since before it was farmed[7]. In terms of the climate, there is no doubt that Hikimi is the best place for wasabi cultivation at the moment. However, there are concerns about the future of wasabi production in Hikimi[18]. It’s said that the average global rise in temperature is 0.68 degrees Celsius per 100 years (1.22°F), but the temperature of Hikimi rose up 1.1 degrees Celsius (1.98°F) in the past 100 years[19]. This means that ideal conditions for wasabi cultivation rose 200 meters in that time [20] since temperatures decrease at a rate of 0.55 degrees Celsius per 100 meters[21]. In the past, top quality wasabi could be harvested even in the lower areas. However, the water temperature gradually has been rising since World WarⅡ, and the warmer temperatures have resulted more damage to the crops from insects[18]. Some farmers are trying to avoid the diseases and pests by farming fields at higher elevations[22], but soon they will run out of land to move up to. Moreover, on the Japan Sea side, in recent years there have been torrential rain storms at a scale never seen before[23][24]. These large storms wash away wasabi plants and sometimes devastate entire farms[18][22].

Cultivation method and traits of water-grown wasabi

Water-grown Wasabi Cultivation Styles

In Hikimi, water-grown wasabi is commonly grown on farms called Keiryu Style (Mountain Stream Style)[17], and the water comes from the Takatsugawa River System which is one of the cleanest rivers in Japan[25]. Tatami-ishi Style (Paving Stones Style) used in Shizuoka and Heichi Style (Flatland Style) used in Nagano are the main styles used in those prefectures. These use spring water as a source and are usually constructed on large-scale using heavy machinery [17]in easily accessible locations. On the other hand, Keiryu Style fields mainly use water from mountain streams. The fields are built on a small-scale by hand along mountain streams, making full use of the natural features of the landscape[17]. To access the Keiryu Style fields, people need to be excellent mountain hikers, because the fields are located in difficult to access places[12].

Water-grown Hikimi Wasabi Traits

Slow Growth [26]

This is because Keiryu Style cultivation is exceedingly connected to the natural environment[17]. The temperature of spring water (ground water) has little variation year-round. On the other hand, mountain stream water is always exposed to the elements, so the temperature is easily affected by the outside temperature. For that reason, the water temperature in Keiryu Style farming changes significantly according to the seasons. The growing water temperature of wasabi is as narrow as 8 to 18.6 degrees Celsius (the ideal temperature is 12 to 13 degrees Celsius), and growth stops if it is higher or lower than that[17].
Therefore, water-grown wasabi in Keiryu Style fields go through periods of growth and rest similar to annual growth rings on trees.

Taste and Appearance [7][26][9]

  1. Mild sweetness spreads after a sharp pungent flavor.
  2. Rich in aroma and with a viscous texture.
  3. Grated color is light green. (Native species are mostly yellow or white.)
Regarding this sweetness, Hoshi Norimitsu, a former executive chef of the Hotel Okura, stated:
“Hikimi Wasabi is not only posses a strong pungency, but also contains sweetness in the sharpness. I think it is because Hikimi wasabi spends time in snow. Well...., people have said for years that Japanese radish (daikon) which is preserved in the snow is sweeter. Wasabi is the same.”[27]
The viscosity of wasabi is believed to help retain the pungency and flavor compounds after being grated, and keeping its quality for longer[1][28].
At the same time, wasabi blends a sushi topping and a sushi rice ball. For example, watery sushi toppings such as Herring roe or abalone easily slide from sushi rice ball, but wasabi makes sushi toppings hard to slide down. Especially Hikimi wasabi having viscosity works well[29].
Regarding the grated color, residents of Tokyo prefer the deep green wasabi produced in Shizuoka Prefecture; whereas residents of the Keihanshin District (the Kyoto‐Osaka‐Kobe area) prefer the light green wasabi produced in Shimane Prefecture[1]. Kinjirushi Co., the largest company of processed wasabi, manufactures and sells two different colors of powdered wasabi for business use. One is Western Japan Style, and the other is Eastern Japan Style. The Western Japan Style wasabi is lighter colored than wasabi for eastern Japan.

Cultivation style and traits of farm-grown wasabi

Farm-grown wasabi is mainly grown on the slopes of forests where broad-leaved trees grow. The broad-leaf trees naturally adjust the sunlight suitable for growth of wasabi by blocking strong sun-light in the summer, and allowing weak sunlight through after leaves fall in the winter[17]. The fields are made at various altitudes from 250 meters to 1100 meters above sea level. By farming at different altitudes at the same time, farmers can harvest over a wider period of time.

Breed varieties

“Shimane No.3” is the one of the main breed varieties and is cultivated in both water fields and soil fields. Shimane No.3 was developed by Dr. Yokogi Kuniomi of Shimane Prefecture’s Agricultural Experiment Station under the cooperation of Tanaka Kenjiro, an exemplary farmer in Nichihara Town (now part of Tsuwano Town) in 1942[30]. It’s the only superior variety found to be resistant against the putrefaction disease which destroys wasabi cultivation, and it saved the wasabi industry in Shimane Prefecture[30][9]. For water-grown wasabi only, in addition to local species native to Hikimi, there is “Daijin” which is bred from native varieties from elsewhere in Japan. “Misawa,” which was developed in 2002, is used for soil-grown wasabi only[9].

Processed Wasabi Products

Processed products of water-grown wasabi include additive‐free wasabi paste, Japanese yam paste mixed with wasabi[10],sausages containing wasabi and other things[31]. Soil-grown wasabi is mainly used to make wasabi paste[32][33]. Soil-grown wasabi’s leaves, stems, and flower parts are also used as ingredients of pickles; such as Shoyu-zuke (soy sauce pickles), Sakekasu-zuke (sake lees pickles), Miso-zuke (miso pickles)[34], and sweets such as ice cream[35] and pudding[36][37].Wasabi Shoots (known locally as “ganime”) with good texture are used especially for Shoyu-zuke[38]

Hikimi Wasabi and Culture

Yamaoi-Tengu-Sha Shrine

Yamaaoi-Tengu-Sha shrine is the only shrine dedicated to wasabi in which wasabi farmers pray for a good harvest in Japan.[9]. The shrine is located halfway up Mt. Daijingataki, 1170 meters (3838 feet) above sea level, in the town of Hikimi, Mikazura District[7]. This town is regarded as the birthplace of Hikimi Wasabi. The shrine’s goshintai (object of worship) is a carved legendary crow-billed goblin and his round fan is dedicated to the shrine[9]

Wasabi Kagura

Iwami Kagura is a traditional performance art of western Shimane Prefecture. In modern times, a Kagura play has been created by locals to pray for a good wasabi harvest[39]. Nishida Tamotsu created the wooden masks. Watanabe Tomochiyo, who is a researcher of Iwami Kagura and ethnology, created the words, and the Mikazura Kagura Preservation Society, all members of which are wasabi farmers, created the choreography[39]. The title “Yamaaoi Tengu” was named after the official name of the Wasabi Shrine. The performance was first performed at the Shrine on June 5, 1983[39]. The Wasabi Kagura has continued to be performed since then. The story goes that the crow-billed goblin, an object of worship of the shrine, slays disease and insects (in anthropomorphized forms) to save suffering wasabi farmers.
The story is performed by members of the Mikazura Kagura Preservation Society. The group has been designated as a Shimane Prefectural intangible folk cultural property.
The story is performed at a unique Rokuchoushi tempo, and many say is a very powerful performance.[39]

Uzume-Meshi

Cuisine using wasabi has existed in the town of Hikimi since the Middle Ages[4].
Most notably, "Uzume-meshi" was selected as one of the "Five Great Japanese Rice Meals" in a nationwide survey of local cuisine, conducted by the Imperial Household Agency[40]
This dish looks, at first glance, like just a simple bowl of rice. However, when you remove the rice using chopsticks, chicken, taro, burdock, carrots, nameko mushrooms and other ingredients all appear, along with a broth, under the rice.
”Uzume” literally means “to fill up”, while “meshi” means “rice”. It is said that Uzume-meshi was named after how the dish is arranged.[41]. In Hikimi, it is said that Uzume-meshi was eaten as part of a feast when guests visited a person’s house for ceremonial occasions, such as visits from bureaucrats, festivals and the New Year holiday[41]. Its origins are unknown, but there are three possible origin stories many consider to be possible[41]
  1. Wasabi long ago was so expensive that if farmers sold some wasabi, they could earn enough money to live on for a month. Therefore, wasabi was hidden under the rice to prevent their guests from feeling apprehensive by seeing they were being served such expensive food.
  2. Hosts were embarrassed by putting such cheap vegetables on rice, so they hid the ingredients under the rice.
  3. In ancient times, Copper Pheasant was a source of protein for the local people. However, in the Edo period, an edict forbidding the harming of living things came into effect, so people began to hide the ingredients under the rice to not get in trouble.
The ingredients vary by homes and restaurants, but the common elements are shirukakegohan (rice mixed with broth) and wasabi. Uzume-meshi is served at local restaurants[41][42][43][44],and also provided at the rest stop of a local bicycle race, Masuda I・NA・KA Ride.Riders can ride through the 100 kilometer course, starting from the Iwami Airport runway and passing through various local roads without traffic lights[45].
Uzume-meshi was introduced on the Japanese comic series “Oishinbo”, which was made into a film and an animation, and created a food boom in Japan[6]

Attempt to cultivation

To revive wasabi cultivation in Hikimi, the following institutions and measures are being conducted.

Wasabi Bio-center

This institution produces seedlings of elite breeds. It’s located at the former site of the Masuda Industrial Prefectural High School branch in Hikimi.[9]. This institution is equipped with an air controlled laboratory, a breeder room with various equipments, and tools to keep bacteria out[9]

Wasabi College Hikimi

This approach is planed and sponsored by the local administration with the aim of getting people interested in agriculture and rural life, finding new farmers, and promoting the settlement.[9]. Some of the participants of this college actually decided to move and farm in Hikimi[9]

Mascot Character

In 2011, a mascot character, "Wasamaru" inspired by the shape of wasabi, was designed as a promotional tool for settlement in Masuda city[46][47][48]。

References

  1. ^ a b c 横木国臣・上野良一『ワサビ』農山漁村文化協会（新特産シリーズ）、1980年
  2. ^ a b "山根京子 ワサビにおける農産物直売所が果たす役割と文化地理学的傾向 2011年11月" (PDF). Retrieved 2015-03-03.
  3. ^ 島根県 葉山葵 2015年03月19日
  4. ^ a b 県史編さん室『山口県史 史料編 中世3』796頁、2004年
  5. ^ 中川顕允『石見外記』204頁、1820年
  6. ^ a b 小学館「美味しんぼ」第8話（新妻の手料理） 2016年10月20日閲覧
  7. ^ a b c d 矢富熊一郎『石見匹見町史』島根郷土史会、1965年8月15日
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  13. ^ 加藤 内藏進; 東 伸彦 (2013-03-08). "豪雨の出現頻度に注目した梅雨降水の気候学的特徴に関する探究的授業の開発（日降水量データを用いた附属中学校での実践）". 岡山大学教師教育開発センター紀要. 3. 岡山大学教師教育開発センター: 18. {{cite journal}}: |access-date= requires |url= (help); |format= requires |url= (help)
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  29. ^ .特集「わさび 日本のフレーバー」 その1「日本一」を求めて - 朝日新聞デジタル（2016年12月29日）
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