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Hyderabadi cuisine

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Hyderabadi cuisine (native: Hyderabadi Ghizaayat) also known as Deccani cuisine, is the native cooking style of the Hyderabadi Muslims, and began to develop after the foundation of the Bahmani Sultanate, and more drastically with the Qutb shahi dynasty around the city of Hyderabad, promoting the native cuisine along with their own. Hyderabadi cuisine had become a princely legacy of the Nizams of Hyderabad State, as it began to further develop further on from there. It is an amalgamation of Mughal, Turkish, and Arabic along with the influence of the native Telugu and Marathwada cuisines. Hyderabadi cuisine comprises a broad repertoire of rice, wheat and meat dishes and the skilled use of various spices, herbs and natural edibles.[1]: 3 [2]: 14 

Hyderabadi Cuisine has different recipes for different events, and hence is categorized accordingly, from banquet food, for weddings and parties, festival foods, and travel foods. The category to which the recipe belongs itself speaks of different things like the time required to prepare the food, the shelf life of the prepared item, etc.[3]

Mehboob Alam Khan is a foremost expert on the Hyderabadi cuisine.[4]

History

Medieval period

The Deccan region is an inland area in India. The native cuisine was prominent until the Vijayanagara Empire lasted, it was during the rule of Delhi Sultanate, Muhammad bin Tughluq when he shifted the capital from Delhi to Daulatabad, the Deccan region adopted the foreign cuisines. In the 14th century when the Bahmani Sultanate was formed by revolting against the Delhi Sultanate in Deccan, the Turkish noblemen were appointed in the high positions, and introduced the Turkish cuisine.

The two-centuries-long political instability in the region of the Deccan and the main Central Mughal authority and migration has introduced Deccan with multiple foreign cuisines.[5]: 91–92 [6]: 31 

In Deccan medieval cuisine, banquets were common among the aristocracy. Multiple courses would be prepared and served in a style called Dastarkhān (A long cloth laid on floor on which food dishes and dinners plates are placed). Food was generally eaten by hand, served on among commons and nobility. The food was mostly meat oriented being grilled and fried in tandoor. The curry were highly seasoned and flavored by using spices. Fruits were preferred rather than dessert after main course. Once the meals are ended Kahwa (liquid hot drink) was consumed that contains ingredients to digest food. The ingredients of the cuisine varied greatly according to the seasons and festivals, and many items were preserved in the form of Pickles.[5]: 91–92 [6]: 31 [7]

Modern period

The modern cuisine was evolved during the Nizams in the mid-17th century, and elevated to a sublime art form. Hyderabad has a history of continuous influx of migrants from all over the world and in general from the Indian sub-continent, particularly since 1857. Most of the foreign food had been improved to suit the culinary preferences, resulting to form the unique derivative cuisine that excels over the original. Biryani (Turkish) and Haleem (Arabic) for instance is prepared all over India, but the Hyderabadi variety is ultimately form the Hyderabadi Biryani and Hyderabadi Haleem. Til ke chatuni with Arabic tahini, Persian dried lamb with beans is modified with dalcha, tanduri naan of uzbek (central Asia) to create Sheermal. Most of the modern day desserts in Hyderabadi cuisine were introduced and invented during the times of Nizams, today that had become an integral part of cuisine.[6]: 31 [7]

Hyderabadi cuisine is an integral part of the cuisines of the former Hyderabad State that includes the state of Telangana and the regions of Marathwada (now in Maharashtra) and Hyderabad-Karanataka (now in Karnataka). The Hyderabadi cuisine contains city specific specialties like Hyderabad (Hyderabadi biryani and Hyderabadi Haleem) and Aurangabad (Naan Qalia), Parbhani (Tahari), Bidar (Kalyani Biryani) and others. The use of dry coconut, tamarind, and red chillies along with other spices are the main ingredients that make Hyderabadi cuisine different from the North Indian cuisine.[6]: 31 [7]

Course

Hyderabadi dinner also known as Dastarkhan are usually of five course meal; Aghaz (Soup), Mezban (appetizers), Waqfa (Sorbet), Mashgool Dastarkhwan (Main course) and Zauq-e-shahi (dessert).[8]

Biryani

Hyderabadi Biryani is a traditional celebration meal of mutton and rice. It is probably the most famous Hyderabadi dish, and has gained popularity worldwide. It is also sometimes made using chicken or lamb instead of mutton.

Variants

  • Kalyani Biryani is a variant of the Hyderabadi Biryani using beef instead of lamb or mutton.[9][10] This meal was started after Kalyani Nawabs of Bidar came to Hyderabad sometime in the 18th century. The Kalyani biryani is made with small cubes of beef, regular spices, onions and lots of tomatoes. It has a distinct tomato, jeera (cumin), dhania (coriander) flavour.[11]
  • Tahari, Tehri or Tehari are variants of the name given to the vegetarian version of Biryani. It was developed for the Hindu bookkeepers of the Muslim Nawabs. It is prepared by adding the potatoes to the rice as opposed to the case of traditional Biryani, where the rice is added to the meat. In Kashmir, Tehari is sold as street food. Tehri became more popular during World War II, when meat prices increased substantially and potato became the popular substitute in Biryani. It is not really considered to be part of the Biriyani family in its true sense.[12]
  • Chicken Dum Biryani is an another variant of Hyderabadi Biryani and as the name suggested it contains chicken. It is a classic dish of Mughal Nizams. Usually Basmati rice is used for this as it tastes much better though normal rice can also be used. The biryani contains of leg pieces often and regular spices are however used. Biryani is often served with lemon, onions, mirchi ka salan and dhani(curd).

Side dishes

The Biryani is often served with Mirchi ka Salan, a chilly curry and Dahi Chutney, curd or yogurt mixed with pudina, coriander, onions and chillies.

Desserts

Faluda
Double ka meetha
  • Qubani ka meetha(Khubani-ka-Meetha) - Apricot Pudding, Toppings with almond and cream. The original recipe is a translucent liquid.
  • Double ka meetha- Bread Pudding topped with dry fruits, a derivative of mughlai dessert Shahi tukre.
  • Sheer korma - Vermicelli pudding and celebratory dessert, specially made on the Ramzan (EId Ul Fitr) day.
  • Badam ki Kheer Almond.
  • Firni - A Rice dessert.
  • Faluda.
  • Hyderabadi Lassi.
  • Aab shola - Typical Hyderabadi summer sharbat[13].
  • Kaddu Ki Kheer (bottle gourd).
  • Hyderabadi Irani tea available at Irani cafes.[14]

References

  1. ^ Kapoor, Sanjeev (2008). Royal Hyderabadi Cooking. Popular Prakashan. ISBN 978-81-7991-373-4. Retrieved 19 September 2011.
  2. ^ Leonard, Karen Isaksen (2007). Locating home: India's Hyderabadis abroad. stanford university press. ISBN 978-0-8047-5442-2. Retrieved 19 September 2011.
  3. ^ "'Most Hyderabadi cuisine is dying' - The Times of India". The Times Of India.
  4. ^ Borah, Prabalika M (30 September 2010). "Nawab of good times". The Hindu. Chennai, India.
  5. ^ a b Collingham, Lizzie (2006). Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors. Oxford University Press. ISBN 9780199883813. Retrieved 28 April 2013.
  6. ^ a b c d Chapman, Pat (2009). India food and cooking: the ultimate book on Indian cuisine. New Holland Publishers. ISBN 9781845376192. Retrieved 28 April 2013.
  7. ^ a b c Shahid, Sajjad (16 August 2011). "Biryani, Haleem & more on Hyderabad's menu". Times of India. Retrieved 28 April 2013.
  8. ^ "Day 2 in Hyderabad: Ivanka visits historic Golconda Fort". 29 November 2017. Retrieved 21 December 2017.
  9. ^ "The Other Hyderabadi Biryani With a 300-Year-Old Past".
  10. ^ "A tale of two biryanis".
  11. ^ "Why Kalyani Beef Biryani Is A Favourite Of Many Hyderabadis, Muslim And Hindu".
  12. ^ ScoopWhoop (2016-09-24). "Veg Biryani Is Not Biryani. I Wish People Would Just Stop Calling It That". ScoopWhoop. Retrieved 2016-10-29.
  13. ^ "Aab shola refreshing summer drink".
  14. ^ "Quintessentially Hyderabadi—Irani Tea". Retrieved 2016-09-23.

Further reading

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