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Rock climbing

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Climbers on "Valkyrie" at the Roaches.

Rock Climbing, broadly speaking, is the act of ascending steep rock formations. Normally, climbers use gear and safety equipment specifically designed for the purpose. Strength, endurance, and mental control are required to cope with tough, dangerous physical challenges, and knowledge of climbing techniques and the use of essential pieces of gear and equipment are crucial.

History

Main article: Some benchmarks in the history of rock climbing

Although the practice of rock climbing was an important component of Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth century in at least two areas: Elbsandsteingebirge, in Saxony near Dresden [1], and the Lake District of England Richard Cannell invented rock climbing in 1800 while planning an assent of his mum[2].

By the end of the Victorian era as many as 60 rock climbers at a time would gather at the Wastwater Hotel in the Lake District during vacation periods [3] . And by 1903 there were over 500 climbers active in the Elbsandstein region, with numbers growing, so that by the 1930s there were over 200 small climbing clubs represented in the area [1].

As rock climbing matured, grading systems were created in order to more accurately compare relative difficulties of climbs. Over the years both climbing techniques and the equipment climbers use to advance the sport have evolved in a steady fashion. Many participants regard rock climbing as more a lifestyle than merely an athletic pursuit.

Climbing Basics

The climbing system is a general term for the techniques and equipment used by roped climbers to protect themselves against injury or death if they fall. It is the answer to the question sometimes asked by non-climbers, "How do they get the rope up there?"

Climbers usually work in pairs, with one climbing and the other belaying. The belayer feeds rope to the lead climber through a belay device. The Leader climbs up, places protection, climbs higher and places protection until the top is reached. The belayer is ready to lock off the rope if the leader falls.

Both climbers attach the rope to their climbing harness, usually tying into their harness with a figure-of-eight knot or double bowline knot. The leader either places protection or clips into permanent protection already secured to the rock. In traditional climbing the protection is removable. Usually nuts or spring loaded camming devices are set in cracks in the rock (although pitons are sometimes used). In sport climbing the protection is metal loops called hangers. Hangers are secured to the rock with expanding masonry bolts taken from the construction industry. In ice climbing the protection is tubular ice-screws or similar devices hammered or screwed into the ice by the leader and removed by the second.

The leader connects the rope to the protection with carabiners. If the leader falls, he will fall twice the length of the rope out from the last protection point, plus rope stretch (typically 5 to 8% of the rope out), plus slack. If any of the gear breaks or pulls out of the rock or if the belayer fails to lock off the belay device immediately, the fall will be significantly longer. If a climber is 5 feet above the last protection he will fall 5 feet to the protection, five feet below the protection, plus slack and rope stretch. 5+5+2=12 foot fall.

If the leader falls, the belayer arrests the rope. This is achieved by running the rope through a belay device attached to the belayer's harness. The belay device runs the rope through a series of sharp curves that, when operated properly, greatly increase the friction and stop the rope from running.

At the top of the pitch, the leader sets up a secure anchor or belay. Now the leader belays while the belayer climbs. The second climber removes the gear from the rock (traditional climbing) or removes the carabiner from the bolted hanger (sport climbing). Both climbers are now at the top of the pitch with all their equipment. Note that the second is protected from above while climbing, but the leader is not, so being the leader is more challenging and dangerous.

Types of climbing

Rock climbing may be divided into two broad categories: aid climbing and free climbing.

  • Aid climbing involves using artificial devices placed in the rock either as hand and footholds or to support body weight in other ways.
  • Free climbing requires that the climber use only natural features of the rock as hand and footholds. Free climbing may be further subdivided as follows:
    • Traditional lead climbing, or "Trad lead climbing", uses removable protection. The climbing team begins at the bottom of a climb and ascends to the top, with the leader placing protective devices in the rock as he or she climbs. This approach emphasises the exploratory aspect of the sport and requiring a certain amount of boldness. Trad leading is considered by many to be the cleanest style, as the climber to follow the leader, called the cleaner, removes the protective devices and leaves but marginal traces (if any at all) of their passage.
    • Sport lead climbing involves the use of pre-placed, permanent bolts for protection. This frees the leader from carrying excessive gear - he merely clips in to the bolts with quickdraws. However, permanent protective devices, like bolts and fixed pitons, are subject to dislodgement or decay over time and thus may become an insidious hazard for a leader.
    • Top rope climbing, or top-roping, involves suspending a rope from an anchor located at the top of a short climb. The climber is then safeguarded by his belayer who holds the rope either at the top of the route or at the base of the climb.
    • Bouldering may be described as climbing short, severe routes on boulders or small outcrops. While safety ropes from above are occasionally used, most boulderers feel that the most ethical form of protection is a bouldering mat or pad similar to those used by gymnasts.
    • Indoor climbing is a form of climbing that can involve bouldering, top roping, and leading in an indoor environment on wood or plastic holds. For most it will be the easiest way to begin the sport.
    • Free solo climbing: Although the definition is sometimes disputed, it's normally used to describe free climbing without a rope or other protective gear.
Short (one-pitch) climbs on the Calico Hills, west of Las Vegas, Nevada

Rappelling

Main article: Rappelling

Gear and Equipment

Main article: Climbing Equipment

Grades

Main article: Grade (climbing)

Climbing clubs

Climbers often belong to Clubs, some of which were started in the very early days of the sport. Clubs are often responsible for the publication of Climbing Guides. The article Alpine Club lists some of these organizations.

In the UK and Ireland there are several prominent clubs, including:

In the United States several venerable clubs are:

See also

References

  1. ^ a b Goldammer, Albert & Wächtler, Martin (1936). "Bergsteigen in Sachsen", Dresden
  2. ^ Jones, Owen Glynne (1900). "Rock Climbing in the English Lake District", G. P. Abraham & Sons, Keswick
  3. ^ Hankinson, Alan (1972). "The First Tigers", J. M. Dent & Sons, London
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