America Ground

The America Ground was the name given to a roughly triangular area bordered by Robertson Street, Carlisle Parade, the Queens Hotel and Claremont in Hastings. The western boundary of Hastings during the early 1800s was largely considered to be the Priory Bridge, anything west of that was considered to be 'foreign'.

Initially, the area was settled by the itinerant builders who were employed in the large scale construction works taking place around the town, eventually becoming an almost self-sufficient district. Prior to being cleared in 1850, the area consisted largely of Ropewalks and shacks although there were a few more-substantial buildings. Post 1850, the land was transferred to the Crown, becoming the property of the Chief Commissioner for Woods and Forests, remaining in Crown possession to the current day.

The area today is occupied by a number of coffee shops and performing arts related activities with previously unused spaces such as 'Gotham Alley' hosting pop-up art festivals and other events.

Pre-settlement

Prior to becoming closed up by the accumulation of shingle after the great storm of 1287, the area was once part of the river mouth of the Priory Stream. It has been speculated that this was once the best natural harbour on the south coast.. The stream used to be navigable up to approximately the location of Hole Farm (near Blacklands Church).
The land was part of the property of the Augustinian Priory of the Holy Trinity, becoming the Priory Farm more recently.

Occupation by Itinerants

Construction work around Pelham Crescent by the architect Joseph Kaye for the Earl of Chichester (started 1820) and James Burton`s new St. Leonards, (started 1828) resulted in a large workforce for the necessary construction work migrating to the town, who it was reported “took possession without leave, licence, or interference, and built houses, shanties, warehouses, and other erections, for which they paid no rent or consideration; a ‘No Mans Land` and independent of any law or order and, who when challenged hoisted the American Flag, very much a symbol of independence at that time.

At the peak of the area's occupation, the approximately 8 acres of foreshore was home to almost 200 buildings with over 1000 inhabitants, with the earliest recorded inhabitants of the America Ground being Thomas Page and John Prior in 1806. They were listed as resident in an old Hulk, now in two tenements; the remains of the Brig named Polymina.

As the population grew, various trades appeared in the locality including a gardener, carpenter, miller together with Lodging houses, as well as limekilns, stonemasons, a tallow factory, a sawing house and a butchers with slaughter houses and piggeries. There was even a gin palace, the Black Horse run by Daniel Thomas, and a small school founded by William Parker – the forerunner of Hastings Grammar School.

A few of the occupiers had signed leases or gained permission from Lord Chichester, who claimed the whole of the area as owner or Lord under a grant thereof in the reign of James the First. Others had sanction from the Corporation of Hastings, under a grant made to the Corporation under Queen Elizabeth.

A large number of the properties were found by a survey of the area in 1829 to be either in the ownership of Mr. Thomas James Breeds, Mr. Thomas Breeds, and Mr. Mark Boykett Breeds, or associated with them.

Perception of the America Ground

In general the occupants of the America Ground were considered to be little more than smugglers, thieves and vagabonds. Many of the shacks consisted of half-boats (vessels that had been destroyed by sawing in half at the Condemned Hole) up-ended.

Sheila Kaye-Smith in her 1919 book ‘Tamarisk Town’ described the area as having been “free to any beggars, gypsies or other undesirables ... a mock city of shacks, huts and tents.” Barry Funnell however represents that in his book, ‘The America Ground’; 'is that of a diverse, industrious, self-contained community'.

J. Manwaring Baines in Historic Hastings gives the following exchange between the, then Pierwarden, Charles Picknell and counsel during the hearing on the area;
"Witness: You were not thought respectable then, if you were not a smuggler"
"Counsel: That was true of other places besides America?"
"Witness: Oh, yes, they were all smugglers, Parsons and all."
"Vice Chancellor: Do you mean to say that the Parsons also went in for smuggling?"
"Witness: Oh, yes, they used to take a keg for Christmas sometimes, your Honour".

At some point in the early 1800s, bailiffs were sent into the area to apprehend suspected felons. The occupiers of the ground rioted in protest and chased the officials back over the Priory Bridge. The inhabitants raised the American flag, the Stars and Stripes, as a symbol of their independence, which they maintained to the end of their occupation of the land, aping events that had occurred during the American Revolution.

1821 Map

In 1821, the cartographers Abraham Purshouse Driver and Edward Driver, drew a detailed plan of the area which is held at East Sussex County Council's archive (The Keep) . The catalogue entry contains the following description;
"A Plan of the land between Cuckoo Hill and The priory on the west and the south end of All Saints Street on the east, that shown by 4 below and to the south of Castle Street showing buildings and other structures in detail; shows Rock Fair Green, The Priory Houses, The Castle Hotel (Thomas Farncombe), The New Parade, The Parade and The Battery; George Street, West Street, Hill Street, High Street, East Bourne Street, All Saints Street, Courthouse Street, Three Post Lane, Winders Lane, John Street, South Parade, Market House and the Fishmarket shown in outline, though apparently with great accuracy; Pelham Terrace and Pelham Place sketched in in pencil"

Inquiry

On the 5th November 1827, an inquisition was held at the George Hotel, Battle. into the America Ground to determine ownership. In addition to the squatters of the land and the Crown, the adjacent landowners (the Cornwallis and Eversfield Estates) held themselves to be entitled to the land.

After the Battle Commission decreed that the land was the property of the Crown, notices were served on the occupants in May 1828 to prove their claims. Of course, proving of the claims was impossible, but a number of seven year long leases were granted to those who had buildings on the land.. In addition, the detailed plan of the land between Cuckoo Hill and The Priory was annotated to reflect leases.

Lessees and Occupiers

Henry Cousins gives names of a number of lessees of the land in his guide book to Hastings; as follows;

• Thomas James Breeds, Merchant, with Rope Walk ,Warehouses and Offices, besides a number of small houses
• Thomas Breeds, Merchant
• Mark Boykett Breeds, Merchant, Lime Kiln, Sawing House and Pit, Coal Warehouse, and other buildings
• Edward Picknell, Carpenter (the late Councillor "Ned" Picknell), House and Yard
• John Eaton, Carpenter
• Benj. Standen, Carpenter
• Thomas Thwaites, Rope and Tallow Warehouse
• Samuel Chester, Baker
• John Gallop, Ship-wright
• James Lansdell, of Battle, Builder;
• Daniel Thomas, Publican;
• William Wellerd, Butcher
• George Strickland, Corn Factor
• Thomas Page, Rope Maker
• John Prior, Brewer
• W. H. Honiss, Cabinet Maker
• James Brazier, Shoemaker
• William Breach, John Breach and Mark Breach, Fishermen

The following names appear in "St. Leonardensis'" column in the local paper as having moved from the America Ground to St Leonards;

• Valentine Levett
• Stephen Milstead
• Joseph Naylor
• Wm. Strickland
• Jas Hyland
• Richard Starnes
• Wm. Russell
• Chas Neve
• Stanton Noakes
• Wm. Kirby
• Mrs. Fitzgerald
• Samuel Chester
• Sam. Sinden
• Geo. Savage
• Jno. Prendergast
• Thos.. Thorne
• Hy. Sinden
• Thos. Barden
• Jas. Murdoch
• Wm. Shaw,
• Robert Shepherd
• Chas. Chapman
• Edmund Chapman
• Geo. Lee

Eviction

On the 13th of November 1834, the Woods and Forests Commissioners gave notice that all buildings remaining on the ground after Michaelmas the following year, woud be confiscated.

Many of the evicted inhabitants moved to St Leonards, even going as far as removing their houses piece-by-piece and rebuilding them in Gensing Road, Norman Road, Shepherd Street, North Street and London Road among a few other locations; in total, some twenty eight buildings were re-located.

The higher ground along the line of modern-day Cambridge Road was claimed by Lord Cornwallis as being the boundary of his land, leaving the triangular parcel of ground now in Crown ownership.

The ‘Americans’ remained independent until the end. In 1832 they marched to a civic banquet held on Priory Meadow, carrying their flag, which now also bore the Union Flag and the Arms of Hastings. The flag was presented to the borough as a gesture of reconciliation.

The 'America Ground' then remained unused for some 15 years other than the Rock Fair (July 26-27th) and the occasional cricket match, and became known as the `Derelict’ or `Waste Lands`.

Development

A real estate developer called Patrick Francis Robertson leased the crown lands for 99 years at a rate of £500 per year. His name was later given to Robertson Street. Plans were drawn up by an architectural partnership, Reeks Humbert and would give rise to the aforementioned Robertson Street, Carlisle Parade and Robertson Terrace. As an aside, the name Carlisle refers to Lord Carlisle, who was at the time Chief Commissioner of Woods and Forests.

Landmarks

Brassey Institute
Observer Building
Holy Trinity Church
Robertson Street United Reformed Church

Current Day

On the 4th of July 1999, a tradition started where the American flag would be raised accompanied by a reading of the American Declaration of Independence. There have been minimal changes to the architecture of the area over the past 100 years, the only real development being infilling of a 'gap' site between Cambridge Road and Robertson Street. There has been something of a renaissance in the area recently, with projects such as 'The Alley' which opened up the alleyway known locally as 'Gotham Alley' that runs behind the retail premises in Claremont as a community-driven art gallery and space for performing arts.