Zdeněk Hrubý
Zdeněk Hrubý | |
|---|---|
 Zdenék Hrubý | |
| Born | 9 August 1956 Uherské Hradiště, Czechoslovakia |
| Died | 8 August 2013 (aged 56) |
| Cause of death | Fall while abseiling |
| Alma mater | Czech Technical University in Prague |
| Occupation(s) | Mountaineer, professor, economist, public administrator |
| Known for | Summitting 8 eight-thousanders |
| Spouse | Olga Hrubá |
| Children | 2 |
Zdeněk Hrubý (8 August 1956 – 8 August 2013) was a Czech mountaineer, economist and public administrator. Hrubý climbed eight eight-thousanders and was one of the most successful Czech mountaineers of his era.
Mountaineering
Hrubý climbed his first eight-thousander, Cho Oyu in 1994.[1] Over the next two decades, he would return to climb in the Himalayas multiple times for climbing expeditions.
In 2004, he was awarded the ascent of the year for his alpine-style summit of Shishapangma via the MacIntyre route, alongside Radek Jaroš, Martin Minařík, and Petr Mašek. He was awarded his next ascent of the year for his polar crossing of Antarctica and his climb of Mount Vinson.[2][3]
While climbing Dhaulagiri, he and climbing partner Radek Jaroš were awarded a fair play award for rescuing three climbers during their ascent.[4] They later received a diploma from the European Fair Play Movement.[5]
His most frequent climbing partners were Radek Jaroš and Marek Holeček.[6] In 2009, Hrubý and Holeček's climbing partnership was tested after an attempt to be the first ascent of the southwest face of Gasherbrum I.[7] During the climb, Hrubý's stomach ulcers ruptured. He begged his climbing partner to leave him on the mountain, however they successfully made the descent.[8][9] They were only 500m from the summit.[10]
In 2011, they attempted the first ascent of the southern Rupal face of Nanga Parbat, which Hrubý had to abandon mid-attempt due to an injured hand and Holeček had to turn back due to poor weather conditions.[11] The next year, they returned to Nanga Parbat, this time successfully summiting via that Kinsofer route. The Czech Mountaineering Association awarded the climb an honorable mention for the year, given the difficult conditions of the summit.[12]
Never Stop Exploring expedition series
Hrubý and Holeček planned three expeditions for 2013, as part of their Never Stop Exploring expedition series, two in the Himalayas and Mount Foster in Antarctica.[13] They were all mountains they had not successfully conquered before.[14]
The first trip, named Thumba Party resulted in the first successful alpine style summit of the North West pillar of Talung (7349 m) on 19 May.[15][16] The ascent was later awarded the climb of the year by the Czech Mountaineering Association.[13]
The second expedition brought the pair back to attempt the as yet unclimbed southwest face of Gasherbrum I once again.
Death and legacy
A day before his 57th birthday, Hrubý died from a fall during the descent of the eight-thousander, after unsuccessfully reaching the summit. Hrubý was fatally injured after a technical mistake, he mistakenly used the wrong type of carabiner while abseiling and fell several hundred meters to his death.[17]
After his death, Hrubý was commemorated with a memorial at the Hrubá Skála climber's cemetery.[18]
In 2017, his climbing partner Marek Holeček, successfully climbed the Southwest face of Gasherbrum I on his fifth attempt. He dedicated his summit to Hrubý.[8]
Professional life
Hrubý studied cybernetics at Czech Technical University in Prague and later economics in Germany and England. After graduation, he had a successful career in education and administration.[3]
From 2002 to April 2005, he was a Czech deputy minister of finance, responsible for EU integration and the coordinator of EU aid.[19][20] He additionally served as a government representative for meetings of the International Monetary Fund,[21] and as member of the board of directors of Český Telecom.[8][22]
At the time of his death, he was the chairman of the Czech Mountaineering Association, a teacher in the Faculty of Social Science of Charles University in Prague, and a visiting professor for Australian National University.[23][13]
Outside of climbing, he pursued 100 hour skiing races and ultramarathons.[24]
Climbing history
- 1994 Cho Oyu (8201 m), successful summit[25]
- 1996 Mount Everest, no attempt at summit due to weather[25]
- 1997 Gasherbrum I (8068 m), successful summit
- 1997 Gasherbrum II (8035 m), successful summit
- 1998 Mount Everest reached 8600 m[25]
- 1999 Lhotse (8516 m), successful summit[25]
- 2002 Kangchenjunga reached 8050 m[25][26]
- 2002 K2 reached 5200 m[27]
- 2004 Shishapangma (8013 m), successful summit[28]
- 2007 K2, unsuccessful[29]
- 2007 Broad Peak (8047 m), successful summit[30]
- 2008 Dhaulagiri (8167 m), successful summit
- 2008 Makalu, reached 7200 m[25]
- 2009 Gasherbrum I, unsuccessful summit attempt via Southwest face[8]
- 2012 Nanga Parbat (8125 m), successful summit
- 2013 Talung (7349 m) – first ascent in alpine style with Marek Holeček.[15][25]
References
- ^ "The Himalayan Database Online". The Himalayan Database. Ann Arbor, Michigan. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ layout), Jiří Lukáš (phpRS), (c) Petr Suchý (phpRS modification, modules &. "Výstupy roku 2006". www.horyinfo.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) - ^ a b "Výstupy roku 2006, 1. část | ČeskéNoviny.cz". www.ceskenoviny.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 2 August 2024.
- ^ layout), Jiří Lukáš (phpRS), (c) Petr Suchý (phpRS modification, modules &. "Hlavní cena Fair Play pro Hrubého a Jaroše". www.horyinfo.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) - ^ "Zemřel horolezec Hrubý. Zdeněk uklouznul a zřítil se, potvrdil Holeček | Ostatní sporty". Lidovky.cz (in Czech). 10 August 2013. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ ČTK (26 March 2008). "Jaroš s Hrubým se chystají na dvě osmitisícovky". iDNES.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ iDNES.cz, ČTK (30 June 2009). "Čeští horolezci chtějí po 20 letech první himálajský prvovýstup". iDNES.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ a b c d Brezina, Ivan (19 October 2017). "Bál jsem se, že na Gašerbrumu najdu parťákovy ostatky, říká Marek Holeček". iDNES.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Přední český horolezec Zdeněk Hrubý zahynul v Himálaji". iROZHLAS (in Czech). 10 August 2013. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Marek Holeček a Zdeněk Hrubý". Radiožurnál (in Czech). 17 September 2009. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ layout), Jiří Lukáš (phpRS), (c) Petr Suchý (phpRS modification, modules &. "Interview s Alláhem". www.horyinfo.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) - ^ Horosvaz. "Výstupy roku 2012 výsledky, horosvaz - Český horolezecký svaz - ČHS". www.horosvaz.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ a b c "Zdeněk Hrubý (1956 – 2013) loved the high mountains - UIAA". 1 October 2013. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ Solution, Horydoly cz, Next Generation. "Zdeňka Hrubého zabilo slaňování z Gasherbrum I." www.horydoly.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) - ^ a b "Expedice Never Stop Exploring - Talung 2013". horyinfo.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Český úspěch, Holeček s Hrubým zvládli prvovýstup na Talung". Deník.cz (in Czech). 28 May 2013. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Rekviem pro Zdendu | MarekHoleček.cz". 7 January 2014. Archived from the original on 7 January 2014. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ Prošková, Romana (16 September 2013). "Horolezce Zdeňka zabila osmitisícovka. Rozloučily se s ním stovky lidí". Deník.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Zemřel horolezec Hrubý. Zdeněk uklouznul a zřítil se, potvrdil Holeček". Lidovky.cz (in Czech). 10 August 2013. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Po EU kapitole návrat zpět do energetiky". iDNES.cz (in Czech). 26 February 2007. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Zprávy z pátečního dne výročních zasedáních MMF a skupiny Světové banky". Finance.cz. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Dozorčí rada Telecomu má nového předsedu". iDNES.cz (in Czech). 29 June 2004. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Zdeňka Hrubého zabilo slaňování z Gasherbrum I." www.horydoly.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Rozloučení se Zdeňkem Hrubým". horyinfo.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ a b c d e f g "The Himalayan Database Online". The Himalayan Database. Ann Arbor, Michigan. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Bohové přijmuli poprvé i čechy". iDNES.cz (in Czech). 28 May 2002. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ Rýdl, Jan (17 January 2002). "Vrchol K2 nedobyli, ale přežili". iDNES.cz (in Czech). Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Češi zvládli drama na Šiša Pangmě". iDNES.cz (in Czech). 13 October 2004. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Jaroš s Hrubým zápasí v Nepálu s průjmem". Jihlavský deník (in Czech). 31 May 2007. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Horolezci zdolali Broad Peak". Svitavský deník (in Czech). 16 July 2007. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
Bibliography
- Kam dolétne sokol, výbor z deníků z výprav do velehor; Zdeněk Hrubý a Boris Hlaváček, ASA 2015, ISBN 978-80-87353-07-3
External links
- Zdeněk Hrubý interview on horyinfo.cz (in Czech)
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