Examine individual changes

'{{multiple issues| {{POV|date=May 2014}} {{more citations needed|date=June 2012}} }} {{Indian cuisine}} {{Use British English|date=September 2013}} {{Use dmy dates|date=September 2012}} {{Bengalis}} {{Culture of Bengal}} {{short description|The food of both West Bengal and Bangladesh, the history and material conditions of such, and their qualities.}} '''Bengali cuisine''' is a culinary style originating in [[Bengal]], which is now divided between [[Bangladesh]] and [[West Bengal]], [[Tripura]] and [[Assam]]'s [[Barak Valley]]. With an emphasis on fish, vegetables and lentils are served with rice as a staple diet. Bengali cuisine is known for its varied use of flavours, as well as the spread of its confectioneries and desserts. It has the only traditionally developed [[full course dinner|multi-course]] tradition from the [[cuisine of the Indian subcontinent]] that is analogous in structure to the modern ''[[service à la russe]]'' style of [[French cuisine|French]] cuisine, with food served in [[course (food)|courses]] rather than all at once.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|url=https://www.culturalindia.net/indian-food/bengali-cuisine.html|title=Know All About The Famous Bengali Culinary Style Popular In The Eastern Part Of The Indian Subcontinent|website=www.culturalindia.net|language=en|access-date=2019-02-18}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://ishitaunblogged.com/2012/06/30/authentic-bengali-cuisine-in-slight-details/|title=Traditional Bengali Cuisine {{!}} All The ‘Slight’ Details|date=2012-06-30|website=IshitaUnblogged|language=en-GB|access-date=2019-02-18}}</ref> == Food ceremonies == === Annaprashana === {{Main|Annaprashana}} ''Annaprashana'', or "grain initiation",<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.babycenter.in/a1016889/annaprashan-first-rice-eating-ceremony|title=Annaprashan (first rice-eating ceremony)|last=|first=|date=|website=BabyCenter|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=2019-02-18}}</ref> is a ''[[Sanskara (rite of passage)|samskara]]''- or right of passage- in which a baby consumes its first solid meal, which consists of some form of rice- usually [[payesh|''payesh'']], as it is easiest to swallow. In Bengali, it can be referred to as "''Mukhe Baat''" (মুখে ভাত), which literally translates to "rice in mouth". Families are expected to use silver or bronze dishes and cutlery, and dress their children in traditional attire that depends on their gender.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.shishuworld.com/annaprashan/|title=Annaprashan ceremony/ Feeding of first rice grain|last=|first=|date=|website=Shishuworld|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=2019-02-18}}</ref> After the initial ''payesh'', children are given a few drops of [[ghee|''ghee'']], ''shukto'', ''torkari'', a variety of ''bhaja'', [[dal|''daal'']], [[chutney|''chutney'']], and a fish's head and tail.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|url=https://ishitaunblogged.com/2012/05/30/notun-gurer-payeshrice-pudding-remembering-dida/|title=Notun Gurer Payesh/Traditional Bengali Rice Pudding {{!}} Remembering My Dida|date=2012-05-30|website=IshitaUnblogged|language=en-GB|access-date=2019-02-18}}</ref> Nowadays, some parents forgo the additional food items and just stick to the ''payesh'', as certain foods may not be good for the child's digestive system yet.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.theindusparent.com/annaprashan|title=Tips for memorable annaprashan ceremony: baby's first solid feeding ceremony|last=Athri|first=Preeti|date=|website=The Indus Parent|archive-url=|archive-date=|dead-url=|access-date=2019-02-18}}</ref> ==The partition of Bengal and India== The large-scale displacement along religious lines as a result of the partition led to changes in meal-taking, as to adhere to religious restrictions. In Bangladesh, [[Mughlai cuisine|Mughlai food]] is common, and includes foods that are taboo in West Bengal, such as beef [[kebab]]. Additionally, more traditionally Islamic sweets such as [[Zarda (food)|''zarda'']] and ''firni-payesh'' are taken. In rural Bangladesh, many people eat [[Nymphaeaceae|''makna'']] fried, popped, or raw. As a whole, Bangladesh's cuisine mainly remained traditional due to its geopolitical isolation.<ref name=":2">{{Cite web|url=http://en.banglapedia.org/index.php?title=Food_Habits|title=Food Habits - Banglapedia|website=en.banglapedia.org|access-date=2019-03-10}}</ref><ref name=":3">{{Cite web|url=https://www.bengalcuisine.in/history|title=Historical Sketch {{!}} Bengal Cuisine|website=www.bengalcuisine.in|access-date=2019-03-10}}</ref> In West Bengal, the only restriction is beef, which applies only to Hindus, but due to recent laws also affect Muslim communities. Access to Western food is higher in the West than the East, and shortages of foodstuffs like milk and meat are non-existent. During the colonial period, many Western food shops were established in Kolkata, making puff pastries, channa, chocolate, and chips especially popular. Dishes such as ''chop'', gravy cutlet, sponge [[Rasgulla|''rasogolla'']], and [[ledikeni|''ledikeni'']]. As a result of a more multi-cultural community than Bangladesh, West Bengal's cuisine continuously changes, and takes heavy influence from Chinese and Marwari palates.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":2" /><ref name=":3" /><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://theculturetrip.com/asia/bangladesh/articles/defining-bengali-cuisine-the-culinary-differences-of-west-bengal-and-bangladesh/|title=Defining Bengali Cuisine: The Culinary Differences of West Bengal and Bangladesh|last=Pearce|first=Melissa|website=Culture Trip|access-date=2019-03-10}}</ref> ==Influence of widows== Hindu widows were not allowed to leave the house, so their contribution to the household was usually restricted to the kitchen, creating a unique class of chefs in the [[Hindu]] community.<ref>{{cite web|last=Nair|first=Rukmini|title=Are we what we eat?|url=http://www.india-seminar.com/2005/545/545%20rukmini%20bhaya%20nair1.htm|accessdate=28 November 2011}}</ref> While most Bengali [[caste]]s ate meat and fish, this was barred for widows. Widows also could not use "heating" foods such as [[shallot]] and [[garlic]], but [[ginger]] was allowed. This style found a core place in Bengali curries in general, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. Expensive spices such as [[saffron]], [[cinnamon]] or [[Clove|cloves]] were used very sparingly, if at all; nuts, dry fruits, milk and milk products (such as [[cream]], [[ghee]] or [[curd]]) were similarly scarce.<ref>{{cite journal|last=Banerji|first=Chitrita|title=What Bengali Widows Cannot Eat|journal=Granta|date=Winter 1995|issue=52|url=http://www.granta.com/Magazine/52|accessdate=28 November 2011|deadurl=yes|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20111220063949/http://www.granta.com/Magazine/52|archivedate=20 December 2011|df=dmy-all}}</ref> As a result of all of these economic and social restrictions, Bengali widows created a brand new set of meals that utilized only vegetables and cheap spices. ==Characteristics of Bengali cuisine== [[File:Bengali meal.jpg|thumb|A Bengali meal traditionally set up.]]Bengali cuisine can be subdivided into four different types of dishes, ''charbya'' (চারব্য), or food that is chewed, such as rice or fish; ''choṣya'', or food that is sucked, such as ambal and tak; ''lehya'' (লেহ্য), or foods that are meant to be licked, like chuttney; and ''peya'' (পেয়ে), which includes drinks, mainly milk.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.sahapedia.org/our-food-their-food-historical-overview-of-the-bengali-platter|title=Our Food Their Food: A Historical Overview of the Bengali Platter {{!}} Sahapedia|website=www.sahapedia.org|access-date=2019-03-10}}</ref> == Regional specialties == ===Special dishes of Dhaka=== {{Main|Bangladeshi cuisine|List of Bangladeshi dishes|List of Bangladeshi spices}} The [[Nawab of Dhaka|Nawabs of Dhaka]] had brought Mughlai cuisine to Bengal, and with it, many Islamic elements that were wholly retained by Bangladesh's culinary community. Due to the high costs of producing Mughlai food, the recipes were limited to the elite classes in colonial India, and slowly expanded as Bangladesh's economy grew. The main focus on lamb, mutton, beef, yoghurt, and mild spices define the taste of the style. Such dishes as kebab; stuffed breads; ''kachi biriyani''; roast lamb, duck, and chicken; ''patisapta''; Kashmiri tea; and ''korma'' are still served at special occasions like [[Eid al-Fitr|Eid]] and weddings.<ref name=":3" /><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.kixp.net/nawabs-dhaka-regal-cuisine/|title=The Nawabs of Dhaka And Their Regal Cuisine|date=2015-02-26|website=KIXP|language=en-US|access-date=2019-03-10}}</ref> Due to the high class of the food, using an excess amount of expensive ingredients like ghee, and making the food melt in one's mouth were essential to the feel of the food.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/food-from-the-nawabs-kitchen/article23801460.ece|title=Food of the Nawabs|last=Anand|first=Shilpa Nair|date=2018-05-07|work=The Hindu|access-date=2019-03-10|language=en-IN|issn=0971-751X}}</ref> ===Specialities of Kolkata and suburbs=== In Kolkata, many local street vendors own small shops from which they sell their own homemade goods.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.cnbc.com/2018/11/09/kolkata-a-city-of-arts-culture-and-cuisine.html|title=Kolkata: A city of arts, culture and cuisine|last=Chitty|first=Tom|date=2018-11-08|website=www.cnbc.com|access-date=2019-04-09}}</ref> Items like cheeses (''paneer'') can be eaten as is, or can be made into sweet ''[[Sandesh (confectionery)|sandesh]]'', ''[[Rasgulla|rosogolla]]'', or ''chanar payesh''. Milk is especially used in Kolkata's various types of ''payesh'', differing in use of different grains and additives like dates, figs, and berries.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://kitchenofdebjani.com/2018/01/choshir-payesh/|title=Bengali Choshir Payesh Recipe {{!}} Choshir Paayesh|date=2018-01-13|website=Debjanir Rannaghar|language=en-US|access-date=2019-04-09}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.peekncook.com/Show-A-Recipe/2055/aamer-payesh|title=Aamer Payesh Or Mango Rice Pudding Or Aam Kheer {{!}} PeekNCook|website=Moumita Ghosh Recipe Blog PeekNCook|language=en|access-date=2019-04-09}}</ref> In addition to European foodstuffs like chocolate, Kolkata takes culinary influence from its Chinese diaspora.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.kolkata.org.uk/culture/cuisines.html|title=Calcutta Cuisine - Cuisine Of Kolkata India - Bengali Traditional Food - What to Eat in Calcutta India|website=www.kolkata.org.uk|access-date=2019-04-09}}</ref> [[Panipuri|''Puchka'']], also known as ''panipuri'', is a common kind of Bengali street food made with a fried dough casing and a potato and chickpea filling, usually found alongside paan and [[Masala chai|masala chai.]]<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/kolkata-food-culinary-journeys/index.html|title=Kolkata food: A dining guide to restaurants and dishes|last=CNN|first=Divya Dugar, for|date=2015-06-12|website=CNN Travel|language=en|access-date=2019-04-09}}</ref> ===Specialities of Chittagong=== ''Ziafat'' or ''Mezban'' feasts are popular throughout the area, where characteristic "heavy" dishes—dishes rich in animal fat and dairy—are featured. Saltwater fish and seafood are quite prevalent in these areas. [[Dried fish|''Shutki'']] is more available in this region than in other parts of the country. Bangladesh's Southern region is also popular worldwide for its fisheries industries with over 100 types of fishes exported every day from this region.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.dhakatribune.com/feature/food/2019/03/24/coastal-cuisines-of-bangladesh-chittagong-delicacies|title=Coastal cuisines of Bangladesh|date=2019-03-24|website=Dhaka Tribune|access-date=2019-04-08}}</ref> == Methodology == [[File:Shingara.jpg|thumb|''Shingara'' on a Bengali newspaper, as they are usually served, with onion and lanka on the side]] ===Instruments and utensils=== [[File:Bengali kitchen utensils.JPG|thumb|left|284px|Different utensils used in a Bengali household. Clockwise from left: korai, tawa, hari, tea pan and a dekchi/deg.]] Another characteristic of Bengali food is the use of a cutting instrument, the ''[[boti]]'' (also called the ''dao'' in some regional dialects). It is a long curved blade on a platform held down by foot; both hands are used to hold whatever is being cut and move it against the blade, which faces the user. The method gives effective control over the cutting process, and can be used to cut anything from tiny shrimp to large pumpkins.<ref>{{Citation|last=WildFilmsIndia|title=Women cut vegetables at a Bengali wedding in India, using a Boti or Dao|date=2015-02-19|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ky713rmjorA|access-date=2019-03-31}}</ref> A ''[[Wok|korai]]'' (wok) is a universal cooking vessel for most Bengali food, for making sauces, frying/stir-frying, etc. The ''dekchi'' (a flat-bottomed pan) is used generally for larger amounts of cooking or for making rice. The ''dekchi'' comes with a thin flat lid which is used also to strain out the starch while finishing up cooking rice. The other prominent cooking utensil is a ''hari'', which is a round-bottomed pot-like vessel. The three mentioned vessels all come in various sizes and in various metals and alloys. The ''tawa'' is used to make [[roti]] and [[paratha|porota]]. Silverware is not a part of traditional Bengali cookery. A flat metal spatula, ''khunti'', is used often, along with ''hata'' (scoop with a long handle), ''jhanjri'' (round-shaped sieve-like spatula to deep-fry food), the ''shanrashi'' (pincers to remove vessels from the fire), the ''ghuntni'' (wooden hand blender) for puréeing dal, the old wooden ''belun chaki'' (round pastry board and rolling pin), and the ''shil nora'', which is a rough form of a mortar and pestle or grinding stone. The ''kuruni'' is a unitasker, there to grate coconuts.[[File: Bengali cooking tools.JPG|thumb|266px|From left, 3 hats, 3 chunks and a jhanjri]] ===Preparation and cutting=== [[File:Boti with coconut grater.JPG|thumb|On the left, a coconut grater known as ''kuruni'' and on the right a ''[[boti]]'', a type of chopper or cutting tool used to cut the vegetables, fish, meat, etc.]] Bengali cuisine is rather particular in the way vegetables and meat (or fish) are prepared before cooking. Some vegetables are used unpeeled, in some preparations fish is used unskinned in contrast as well. However, in most dishes vegetables are peeled, and fish scaled and skinned. In many cases, the main ingredients are lightly marinated with salt and turmeric (an anti-bacterial and antiseptic). Vegetables are to be cut in different ways for different preparations. Dicing, julienne, strips, scoops, slices, shreds are common and one type of cut vegetables cannot replace another style of cutting for a particular preparation. Any aberration is frowned upon. For example, in ''alu-kumror chhakka'', the potatoes and gourds must be diced, not shredded; if they are shredded it is called ''ghonto'' and not ''chhakka''. One of the spices which is widely used in most of the veg preparation in Bengali food is called paanch phoron (literally means five spices). The five spices which make paanch phoron are Cumin seeds, fenugreek, Mustard seeds (black), Nigella seeds, fennel seeds. This spice is used for tempering in many veg dishes with whole red chillies. This spice gives a distinct flavour to this dish. Some people also prefer to light roast the spice and ground it for chutneys. ==Cooking styles== {{Unreferenced section|date=April 2016}} Bengali cuisine has evolved with the influence of Mughal cuisine, Anglo-Indian cuisine, and Chinese cuisine among others. Some geographical overlap allowed this to occur, such as the great number of rivers and their tributaries providing freshwater fish and flat and fertile land producing abundance of rice and pulse (lentil). As for the flora and fauna involved, domestic cattle and dairy farming provide milk, beef, (for non-Hindus) and mutton; and alluvial soil produces variety of fruits and vegetables. Moreover, use of different spices has added to the flavour and taste of Bengali food. Ceremonial food differs from the daily food. While daily food consists mainly of rice, roti (a handmade flat bread), fish, lentil (dal), meat, vegetables etc., in different occasions and festivals, guests are entertained with different kind of [[Polao|pilau]] or [[biryani]], [[Korma|chicken korma]], beef kalia, [[Kebab#Bangladesh|kebab]], [[borhani]], [[firni]], jorda or different sweet dishes etc. A significant feature of the cuisine is a significant variety of sweets based on milk and sugar as part of tradition. Wheat is used alongside rice, in different types of breads, such as ''luchi'', ''kochuri'' and ''pôroţa''. Special cuisine are also prepared in different seasons; for example, in winter, both urban and rural areas prepare various kinds of pitha (cakes like bhapa pitha, phul pitha, telerpitha, patishapta and taler bora) and payesh/khir (a special kind of dessert made of milk, rice, sugar/gur and spices) are prepared. Prosperity and urbanisation also led to the widespread use of professional cooks who introduced complex spice mixtures and more elaborate sauces, along with techniques, such as roasting or braising. Also introduced around this time, probably as a consequence of increased urbanisation, was a new class of snack foods. These snack foods are most often consumed with evening tea. The tea-time ritual was probably inspired by the British, but the snacks most popular are shingara, dalpuri, [[samosa]], peyaji, beguni, phuluri, chop, muri, [[haleem]] etc. [[Chotpoti]] is one of the most popular street foods of Bangladesh.{{Citation needed|date=February 2019}} ==Culinary influences== {{Unreferenced section|date=March 2018}} Bengali food today has some broad (though not so distinct) traditional variations. ===Mughal influence=== Islam arrived in Bengal probably around the mid-thirteenth century, coming into force with the penetration of the Muslim rulers from the northwest. [[Dhaka]] (the present-day capital of Bangladesh), in particular, expanded greatly under Mughal rule. The partition of India in 1947 resulted in a large migration of people to and from present-day Bangladesh, resulting in a much stronger divide along religious lines. Bangladesh today shows a much greater Muslim influence than West Bengal. [[File:Food-Mutton-Chaanp.jpg|thumb|right|Mutton Chaanp]] The influence on the food was from the top down, and more gradual than in many other parts of India. This led to a unique cuisine where even commoners ate the dishes of the royal court, such as ''[[biryani]]'', ''korma'' and ''bhuna''. The influence was reinforced in the [[British Raj|Raj]] era, when Kolkata became the place of refuge for many prominent exiled [[Nawab]]s, especially the family of [[Tipu Sultan]] from [[Kingdom of Mysore|Mysore]] and [[Wajid Ali Shah]], the ousted [[Nawab of Awadh]]. The exiles brought with them hundreds of cooks and ''masalchis'' (spice mixers), and as their royal patronage and wealth diminished, they became interspersed into the local population. These cooks came with the knowledge of a very wide range of spices (most notably ''jafran'' ([[saffron]]) and [[mace (spice)|mace]]), the extensive use of ghee as a method of cooking, and special ways of marinating meats. [[File:Food-Mutton-Rezala.jpg|thumb|right|Mutton Rezala]] In [[Bangladesh]], this food has over time become the staple food of the populace. In West Bengal, however, this has remained, more than the other categories, the food of professional chefs; the best examples are still available at restaurants. Specialties include ''chap'' (ribs slow cooked on a [[Tava|tawa]]), ''rezala'' (meat in a thin yogurt and cardamom gravy) and the famous ''kathi'' roll (kebabs in a wrap). The local population absorbed some of the ingredients and techniques into their daily food, resulting in meat-based varieties of many traditional vegetarian dishes, but the foods remained largely distinct. The Mughal influence is most distinct in preparations involving meat, especially mutton. However, even chicken and other meats became more prevalent. The influence was also seen in desserts; traditional desserts were based on rice pastes and jaggery but under the Mughal influence moved towards significantly increased use of milk, cream and sugar along with expensive spices such as cardamom and saffron. ===Anglo-Indian or Raj influence=== [[File:Chicken Kabiraji Cutlet - Kolkata 2013-12-15 5382.JPG|thumb|Chicken kabiraji cutlet in Kolkata, December 2013]] [[Anglo-Indian]] food is not purely the result of the influence of the British; Bengal was once the home of a French colony, and also hosted populations of Portuguese, Dutch and other Europeans. These collective western influences are seen in the foods created to satisfy the tastes of the western rulers. The result is a unique cuisine, local ingredients adapted to French and [[Italian cuisine|Italian]] cooking techniques—characterised by creamy sauces, the restrained use of spices, and new techniques such as baking. English and Jewish bakers such as Flury's and Nahoum's dominated the confectionery industry which migrated from British tables to everyday Bengali ones, resulting in unique creations such as the ''pêţis'' (savory turnovers, from the English "pasty"). Another enduring contribution to Bengali cuisine is ''pau ruţi'', or Western-style bread. Raj-era cuisine lives on especially in the variety of finger foods popularised in the 'pucca' clubs of Kolkata, such as ''mutton chop'', ''kabiraji cutlet'' or ''fish orly''. The British also influenced food in a somewhat different way. Many British families in India hired local cooks, and through them discovered local foods. The foods had to be toned down or modified to suit the tastes of the "[[Sahib#Colonial and modern use|memsahibs]]". The most distinct influence is seen in the desserts, many of which were created specifically to satisfy the British—most notably the very popular sweet ''leđikeni'' named after the first Vicereine [[Lady Canning]]; it is a derivative of the ''pantua'' created for an event hosted by her. ===Chinese influence=== [[File:Bangladeshi style home-made beef chow mein.jpg|thumb|Bangladeshi-style chow mein]] [[File:Pork Roll - Sun Yat-sen Street - Kolkata 2013-03-03 5307.JPG|thumbnail|Chinese pork roll]] The [[Chinese of Kolkata]] originally settled into a village called [[Achipur]] south of Kolkata in the late 18th century, later moving into the city and finally into its present home in [[Tangra, Calcutta|Tangra]] at the eastern edge of Kolkata. The Chinese-origin people of Kolkata form a substantial and successful community with a distinct identity. With this identity came Chinese food, available at almost every street corner in Kolkata at present, due to the taste, quick cooking procedure, and no similarity with the original Chinese recipe other than the use of soy sauce. They were mostly [[Cantonese people|Cantonese]] tradesmen and sailors who first settled down here and decided to cook with whatever items they had at hand. The influence of this unique syncretic cuisine cannot be overstated; it is available in every town in India and Bangladesh as "Chinese" food. Bengali immigrants to other countries have started carrying this abroad as well; Indian Chinese restaurants have appeared in many places in the United States and UK. Indian Chinese food was given a second boost when a large number of Tibetans migrated into Indian Territory, following the [[14th Dalai Lama]]'s flight. Tibetans brought with them their own delicacies to add to this genre, such as the very popular [[Momo (food)|momo]] (a kind of dumpling) or [[thukpa]] (a hearty noodle soup). Tibetans and Nepali immigrants also found ready employment in kitchens and helped power the many eateries that serve this unique fusion on virtually every street in Kolkata. The chop suey became a favorite, and versions like "American chop suey" and "Chinese chop suey" were constantly talked about. ==Bengali meals== {{Unreferenced section|date=March 2018}} ''Main article: [[List of Bengali foods]]''[[File:Macher Jhol.JPG|thumb|A traditional Bengali fish meal – Rice with Macher Jhol (Literally translated to "Fish's gravy").]] The medium of cooking is mustard oil which adds on its own pungency. Another very important item of Bengali cuisine is the variety of sweets or mishti as they call them. Most of them are milk-based and are prepared from 'chhana' ([[paneer|ponir]] as it is popularly known). The most popular among the Bengali sweets are the roshogolla, shondesh, pantua and mishti doi and these four sweets are deemed essential at every wedding besides some other sweets, which may vary as per individual choice. A meal, for the Bengali, is a ritual in itself even only boiled rice and lentils (dal bhat), with a little fish. Bengalis, like the French, spend not only the great deal of time thinking about the food but also on its preparation and eating. Quips like "Bengalis live to eat" and "Bengalis spend most of their income on food" are not exactly exaggerated. The early morning shopping for fresh vegetables, fish etc. is the prerogative of the head of the family, even in affluent household, because he feels that he alone can pick up the best at a bargain price. The Bengalis are very particular about the way and the order in which the food should be served. Each dish is to be eaten separately with a little rice so that the individual flavours can be enjoyed. The first item served may be a little ghee which is poured over a small portion of rice and eaten with a pinch of salt. Then come the bitter preparation, shukto, followed by lentils or dals, together with roasted or fried vegetables (bhaja or bharta). Next come the vegetable dishes, the lightly spiced vegetables, chenchki, chokka, followed by the most heavily spiced dalna, ghonto and those cooked with fish. Finally the chicken or mutton, if this being served at all. Chaatni comes to clear the palate together with crisp savoury wafers, papor. Dessert is usually sweet yogurt (mishti doi). The meal is finally concluded with the handing out of betel leaf (paan), which is considered to be an aid to digestion and an astringent. Traditionally the people here eat seated on the floor, where individual pieces of carpet, called asans, are spread for each person to sit on and the meal is served on a large gun-metal or silver plate (thala) and the various items of food are placed in bowls (batis) around the top of the thala, running from right to left. Rice is mounded and placed on the middle of the thala, with a little salt, chilies and lime placed on the upper right hand corner. They eat with the fingers of the right hand and strict etiquette is observed with regard to this. The typical Bengali fare includes a certain sequence of food—somewhat like the courses of Western dining. Two sequences are commonly followed, one for ceremonial dinners such as a wedding and the day-to-day sequence. Both sequences have regional variations, and sometimes there are significant differences in a particular course between West Bengal and Bangladesh. At home, Bengalis traditionally ate without silverware: ''kaţa'' (forks), ''chamoch'' (spoons), and ''chhuri'' (knives) gradually finding use on Bengali tables in urban areas. Most Bengalis eat with their right hand, mashing small portions of meat and vegetable dishes with rice and in some cases, lentils. In rural areas, Bengalis traditionally eat, sitting on the floor with a large banana or plantain leaf serving as the plate or plates made from [[Sal tree|sal]] leaves sown together and dried. The elaborate dining habits of the [[Bengalis]] were a reflection of the attention the Bengali housewife paid to the kitchen. In modern times, thanks to Western influence, this is rarely followed any more. Courses are frequently skipped or combined with everyday meals. Meals were usually served course by course to the diners by the youngest housewives, but increasing influence of nuclear families and urbanisation has replaced this. It is now common to place everything on platters in the centre of the table, and each diner serves him/herself. Ceremonial occasions such as weddings used to have elaborate serving rituals, but professional catering and buffet-style dining is now commonplace. The traditions are far from dead, though; large family occasions and the more lavish ceremonial feasts still make sure that these rituals are observed. ===The daily meal=== The foods of a daily meal are usually simpler, geared to balanced nutrition and makes extensive use of vegetables. The courses progress broadly from lighter to richer and heavier and goes through various tastes and taste cleansers. Rice remains common throughout the meal and is the main constituent of the meal, until the ''chaţni'' ([[chutney]]) course. ====First course or starter==== [[File:Vegetables Curry - Kolkata 2011-02-24 1725.JPG|thumb|Shukto]] The starting course is made from bitter vegetables or herbs, often deep fried in oil or steamed with cubed potatoes. Portions are usually tiny—a spoonful or so to be had with rice—and this course is considered to be both a palate-cleanser and of great medicinal value. The ingredients used for this course change seasonally, but commonly used ones are ''kôrola'' or ''uchhe'' (forms of [[bitter gourd]]) which are available nearly all year round, or tender ''[[neem]]'' leaves in spring. A thick soupy mixture of vegetables in a ginger-mustard sauce called ''Shukto'' in [[West Bengal]] usually follows the bitter starting course, but sometimes replaces it as a starter altogether. Eaten in much bigger portions, ''Shukto'' is usually eaten in summer. It is a complex dish, featuring a fine balance of many different tastes and textures and is often a critical measure of a Bengali cook's abilities in the kitchen. ====Shak==== The first course is then followed by ''shak'' ([[leaf vegetables|leafy vegetables]]) such as [[spinach]], ''palong'' [[chard]], ''methi'' [[fenugreek]], or [[amaranth]] to name a few. The ''shak'' can be steamed or cooked in oil with other vegetables such as ''begun'' ([[aubergine]]). Steamed ''shak'' is sometimes accompanied by a pungent paste of fermented mustard seeds, spices and sometimes dried mangoes, dried Indian plum and olives which is called ''Kashundi''. Many varieties of the Shak (fried/ cooked leaves) are savored in Bengal. Methi Shak, Kormi Shak, Pui Shak, Ponka Shak, Kulekhara Shak, Sojne Shak(drum stick leaves), Hinche Shak, Neem Pata, Lau Shak, Kumro Shak, Sorshe Shak (also very common in North of India), Kochu Shak etc. are some of the varieties that are vary commonly eaten in Bengali dishes. Neem Shak and Begun (Brinjal) is cooked in mustard oil (deep fried) and consumed with rice. This is a unique dish which is consumed as a normal food considering its bitter taste because of the Neem leaves. ====Dal==== [[File:Luchi&alurdom.jpg|thumb|Luchis with alur dom, cholar dal and sondesh.]] The [[dal|đal]] course is usually the most substantial course, especially in West Bengal. It is eaten with a generous portion of rice and a number of accompaniments. Common accompaniments to đal are ''aaloo bhaate'' (potatoes mashed with rice), and ''bhaja'' (stir fried). ''Bhaja'' literally means 'fried'; most vegetables are good candidates but ''begun'' (aubergines), ''kumro'' (pumpkins), or ''alu'' (potatoes) like French fries, or shredded and fried, ''uchhe'', ''potol'' [[pointed gourd]] are common. ''Machh bhaja'' (fried fish) is also common, especially ''rui'' ([[rohu]]) and ''ilish'' ([[hilsa]]) fishes. ''Bhaja'' is sometimes coated in a ''[[Gram flour|beshon]]'' (chickpea flour) and ''posto'' ([[poppyseed]]) batter. A close cousin of ''bhaja'' is ''bôra'' or deep-fried savoury balls usually made from ''poshto'' ([[poppyseed]]) paste or coconut mince. Another variant is fried [[pointed gourd]] as ''potoler dorma'' with [[roe (egg)|roe]]/[[prawn]]. Another accompaniment is a vegetable preparation usually made of multiple vegetables stewed slowly together without any added water. ''Labra'', ''chorchori'', ''ghonto'', or ''chanchra'' are all traditional [[#glossary|cooking styles]]. There also are a host of other preparations that do not come under any of these categories and are simply called ''tôrkari''—the word merely means 'vegetable' in Bengali. Sometimes these preparations may have spare pieces of fish such as bits of the head or gills, or spare portions of meat. A ''[[charchari]]'' is a vegetable dish that is cooked without stirring, just to the point of charring. Pickles such as raw mangoes pickled in mustard oil and spices or sweet and tangy tamarind picckles and lemon pickle are also served with the dal course. A variety of pickles are a permanent fixture of Bengali meal. ====Main course==== [[File:Deep-fried Carp - Kolkata 2011-02-17 1411.JPG|thumbnail|Deep-fried Carp]] The next course is the fish course. Generally there is one fish course a day, because Bengalis tend to eat fish and generally derive the necessary protein intake from fish and dal. Meat was generally a once-a-week affair until the 1990s, but now with changing culture, meat is served more often in the household. Generally the most common fish dish is the Jhol, where a thin gravy of fish is made with ginger, turmeric, chili and cumin (the basic group of spices), and fish and sometimes potato or other vegetable. Bengalis fame in cooking fish, both dried fish called "Shutki" (more present in East Bengali households) as well as fresh fish. Prawn or shrimp is often considered to be a kind of fish, and crabs are also a favourite of the Bengalis. Apart from it, mutton and chicken feature largely in the non-vegetarian menu, while the vegetarian menu contains homemade [[paneer|ponir]], gram flour "dhoka"(deep fried fermented gram flour dough balls). Generally one or two pieces of fish or meat are served during lunch, with rice, to balance out the meal. ====Additional main course==== Then comes the meat course. This course may be eaten occasionally for 2 reasons: the Hindu principle of ''[[ahimsa]]'', which is observed throughout the region, and cost, as meat is very costly. The divide among the Bengalis of Bangladesh and West Bengal is most evident when it comes to the meat course. Meat is readily consumed in urban parts of Bangladesh and some consider it the meal's main course. Beef is mainly consumed in some of the feasts and banquets in major cities like [[Dhaka]] and [[Chittagong]]. Because the consumption of beef is prohibited among Bengali Hindu communities, ''Khashi'' [[Goat#Meat|mutton]] is traditionally the meat of choice in West Bengal, but ''murgi'' [[Chicken (food)|chicken]] and ''đim'' [[egg (food)|eggs]] are also commonly consumed. At the time of Partition, it was rare for caste Hindus to eat chicken or even eggs from hens, choosing rather duck eggs if eggs were to be consumed. Although it is debatable as to whether chicken is more popular than ''khashi'' in West Bengal today, the proliferation of poultry farms and hatcheries makes chicken the cheaper alternative. ====Chutney==== [[File:Unripe Mango Chutney - Kolkata 2011-02-23 1714.JPG|thumb|Unripe mango chutney, Kolkata.]] Next comes the chutney course, which is typically tangy and sweet; the chutney is usually made of ''am'' [[mango]]es, tomatoes, ''anarôsh'' [[pineapple]], ''tetul'' [[tamarind]], ''pepe'' [[papaya]], or just a combination of fruits and dry fruits called mixed fruit chutney served in ''biye badi'' (marriage). The chutney is also the move towards the sweeter part of the meal and acts also as a palate cleanser, similar to the practice of serving sorbet in some Western cuisines. ''Papoŗ'' ([[papadum]]), a type of wafer, thin and flaky, is often made of [[dal|đal]] or potatoes or ''shagu'' (''[[sago]]'') and is a usual accompaniment to the chutneys. ====Desserts==== {{Unreferenced section|date=March 2018}} [[File:Mishti Doi.jpg|thumb|Mishti Doi]] The last item before the sweets is [[dahi (curd)|doi]] (yogurt). It is generally of two varieties, either natural flavour and taste or [[Mishti Doi]] – sweet yogurt, typically sweetened with charred sugar. This brings about a brown colour and a distinct flavour. Like the fish or sweets [[mishti doi]] is typically identified with Bengali cuisine. In a daily meal it is likely that some of the courses might get missed, for instance the 'Shak', the additional course, Chutney and Papor. In some cases, the dessert might be missed as well. The courses overall are the same at home or at a social function (e.g. marriage feast). Rice, which is the staple across the meal gets replaced by 'luchi' or luchi stuffed with dal or mashed green peas. The replacement is a relatively recent phenomenon and has been seen in practice only from about the early 20th century. ==Mishti (sweets)== [[File:Bengali Sweets.svg|thumb|Minimalist depiction of Bengali sweets]] Sweets occupy an important place in the diet of Bengalis and at their social ceremonies. It is an ancient custom among both [[Hindu]] and Muslim [[Bengalis]] to distribute sweets during festivities. The confectionery industry has flourished because of its close association with social and religious ceremonies. Competition and changing tastes have helped to create many new sweets, and today this industry has grown within the country as well as across the world. The sweets of Bengal are generally made of sweetened cottage cheese (''chhena''), unlike the use of ''khoa'' (reduced solidified milk) in Northern India. Flours of different cereals and [[pulse (legume)|pulses]] are used as well. Some important sweets of Bengal are: ===Shôndesh=== {{Unreferenced section|date=March 2018}} [[File:Sandesh_-_Oberoi_Grand_-_Kolkata_2013-05-23_8046.JPG|thumb|Sandesh]] Made from sweetened, finely ground fresh [[paneer|chhena (cottage cheese)]], shôndesh in all its variants is among the most popular Bengali sweets. The basic shôndesh has been considerably enhanced by the many famous confectioners of Bengal, and now several hundred different varieties exist, from the simple ''kachagolla'' to the complicated ''abar khabo'', ''jôlbhôra'' or ''indrani''. Another variant is the ''kôrapak'' or hard mixture, which blends rice flour with the paneer to form a shell-like dough that lasts much longer. ===Rossogolla=== [[File:Rasagulla.jpg|thumb|left|Rossogolla (Rasgulla)]] [[Rossogolla]], a Bengali traditional sweet, is one of the most widely consumed sweets in India. It spread to Bengal in 1868. [[Channa]] based sweets were introduced in Eastern India from about the 18th century; as the process and technology involved in synthesizing "Chhana" was introduced to the Indians by the Dutch in the 1790s. The cottage cheese "schmierkase" was also known as Dutch cheese.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://rossogolla.zohosites.com/|title=History of Rossogolla|publisher=|accessdate=24 August 2015}}</ref> The earlier versions of Rossogolla lacked binding capacity of the modern avatar that is well known and highly acclaimed today. This was due to the fact that the know-how involved in synthesizing such a sweet was unknown before being experimentally developed by [[Nobin Chandra Das]] and then constantly improved and further standardized by his successors. Furthermore, one must clearly understand that the "chhana" manufactured in those days was a coarse and granular variety and had low binding capacity. It was made by [[Citric acid|citric]] and [[ascorbic acid]] from natural fruit extracts. This type of "chhana" cannot be worked on to compact into any regular and firm shape for the purpose of sweet-making, leave alone making Rossogolla. This is because of a documented technological issue - [[lactic acid]] (extracted from [[whey]]) used to curdle [[milk]] now was introduced to India in the late 18th century by Dutch and Portuguese colonists (along with [[acetic acid]])<ref>{{cite web|url=http://rossogolla.zohosites.com/the-birth-of-a-legend.html|title=The Origin of Rossogolla|publisher=|accessdate=24 August 2015}}</ref> - and it is this method that creates the fine, smooth modern "chhana" with high binding capacity - which is now the staple raw material for [[Bengali people|Bengali]] [[Confectionery|confectioners]]. At present, [[Nobin Chandra Das]] is referred to have invented the spongy variant of rossogolla<ref>{{cite web|url=http://lifestyle.iloveindia.com/lounge/history-of-rasgulla-2327.html|title=History Of Rasgulla|publisher=|accessdate=24 August 2015}}</ref> ===Laddu=== [[Laddu]] is a very common sweet in West Bengal and Bangladesh, as well as the rest of the subcontinent, especially during celebrations and festivities.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.newindianexpress.com/cities/chennai/2013/oct/31/Sweet-shops-make-hay-in-Diwali-shine-532277.html|title=Sweet shops make hay in Diwali shine|website=The New Indian Express|access-date=2019-02-18}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.thehindu.com/features/metroplus/Food/as-good-as-home/article5288375.ece|title=As good as home|last=Dundoo|first=Sangeetha Devi|date=2013-10-31|work=The Hindu|access-date=2019-02-18|language=en-IN|issn=0971-751X}}</ref> They are usually made out of flour, [[ghee]]/butter/oil and sugar. Alternative recipes can be made of coconut shavings and [[jaggery]], raisins, chopped nuts, oatmeal, [[khoa]], [[nutmeg]], cardamom, or poppy seeds, among other ingredients.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.cuisinecuisine.com/Dinkache%20Ladoo.htm|title=Dinkache ladoo, Gund ladoo, Gond Ladoo, Gond Ka Laddu.....Easy Recipes on CuisineCuisine.com|website=www.cuisinecuisine.com|access-date=2019-02-18}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Q2rRCwAAQBAJ&pg=Pg105#v=onepage&q&f=false|title=Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors|last=Collingham|first=Lizzie|date=2006-02-06|publisher=Oxford University Press|isbn=9780198038504|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Dt0RErSFvE8C&pg=PP17#v=onepage&q&f=false|title=Sweet Invention: A History of Dessert|last=Krondl|first=Michael|date=2011-10-01|publisher=Chicago Review Press|isbn=9781569769546|location=Chicago|pages=17|language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://livingfoodz.com/recipes/oatmeal-laddu-1554|title=Oatmeal Laddu|website=Living Foodz|language=en|access-date=2019-02-18}}</ref> The sweet dates back to the year 4 BCE, where it was used for medicinal purposes and to keep the hormones of 9-11-year-old girls' hormones "in check".<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/food-wine/food-story-the-journey-of-ladoo-from-a-medicine-to-the-much-loved-indian-sweet/|title=Food Story: The journey of ladoo from a medicine to the much-loved Indian sweet|date=2014-10-16|website=The Indian Express|language=en-IN|access-date=2019-02-18}}</ref> ===Roshmalai=== {{Unreferenced section|date=March 2018}} [[File:Ras Malai.JPG|thumb|Ras Malai]] [[Ras malai]] is composed of white, cream, or yellow cloured balls of [[paneer|channa]] which are dipped and soaked in sugar and ''malai'' or [[cottage cheese]]. This dessert resembles the [[rasgulla]] greatly. Though it is not a primarily Bengali sweet and originated from other places, Ras Malai is still very popular. [[Comilla]] is famous for its Roshmalai. ===Pantua=== [[File:Pantua - Kolkata 2011-09-20 5431.JPG|thumb|Pantua]] [[Pantua]] is somewhat similar to the rôshogolla, except that the cottage cheese balls are fried in either ''ghee'' (clarified butter) or oil until golden or deep brown before being put in syrup. There are similar tasting, but differently shaped versions of the Pantua e.g. Langcha (cylindrical) or Ledikeni. The latter was created in honour of [[Charlotte Canning, Countess Canning|Countess Charlotte Canning]] (wife of the then Governor General to India Charles Canning) by Bhim Nag, a sweet maker in Kolkata. Pantua is similar to [[gulab jamun]], and could be called a Bengali variant of that dish.<ref>{{cite book |author=Charmaine O'Brien |title=Flavours Of Delhi: A Food Lover's Guide |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=xeSXAAAAQBAJ&pg=PT145 |date=3 February 2003 |publisher=Penguin Books Limited |isbn=978-93-5118-237-5 |pages=145–}}</ref> ===Chômchôm=== {{Unreferenced section|date=March 2018}} [[Cham cham|Chômchôm]], (চমচম) (originally from Porabari, [[Tangail District]] in Bangladesh) goes back about 150 years.Except that many variation of this [[Bangladeshi Cuisine|Bangladeshi dish]] are now available. It can also be preserved longer. Granules of ''maoa'' or dried milk can also be sprinkled over it. ===Pitha=== {{Unreferenced section|date=March 2018}} [[File:Pitha for Wedding- Pakan, Patishapta, Bharandash.jpg|thumb|right|Varieties of pithas (Pakan, Pati Shapta etc.)]] [[File:Bhapa Pitha Bangladeshi Style, 3 February, 2013.jpg|thumb|right|Bhapa Pitha, often sweetened with [[molasses]], is a popular [[Bangladesh]]i style [[rice cake]].]] In both Bangladesh and West Bengal, the tradition of making different kinds of pan-fried, steamed or boiled sweets, lovingly known as ''pithe'' or the "pitha", still flourishes. These symbolise the coming of winter, and the arrival of a season where rich food can be included in the otherwise mild diet of the Bengalis. The richness lies in the creamy silkiness of the milk which is mixed often with molasses, or jaggery made of either date palm or sugarcane, and sometimes sugar. They are mostly divided into different categories based on the way they are created. Generally rice flour goes into making the pithe. They are usually fried or steamed; the most common forms of these cakes include ''bhapa piţha'' (steamed), ''pakan pitha'' (fried), and ''puli pitha'' (dumplings), among others. The other common pithas are ''chandrapuli'', ''gokul'', ''pati shapta'', ''chitai piţha'', ''aski pithe'', ''muger puli'' and ''dudh puli''. The Pati Shapta variety is basically a thin-layered rice-flour crepes with a milk-custard creme-filling, similar to the hoppers or appams of South India, or the French crepes. In urban areas of Bangladesh and West Bengal most houses hold Pitha-festivals sometime during the winter months. The celebration of the Piţha as a traditional sweet is the time for the Winter Harvest festival in rural Bangladesh and West Bengal. The harvest is known as 'Nobanno' – (literally 'new sustenance') and calls for not only rare luxuries celebrating food and sweets but also other popular and festive cultural activities like Public Dramas at night and Open Air Dance Performances. ===Other sweets=== Several varieties of [[dahi (curd)|doi]]s (yogurts) such as ''mishţi doi'', [[custard]]s, and rice pudding (''khir'' or ''firni'')<ref name=":1" /> are also popular in West Bengal. ''Shôndesh'', ''chhanar jilapi'', ''kalo jam'', ''darbesh'', ''raghobshai'', ''payesh'', ''bundiya'', ''nalengurer shôndesh'', ''shor bhaja'', ''[[langcha]]'', ''[[babarsa]]'', '''Rajbhog''' and a variety of others are examples of sweets in Bengali cuisine. ==Snacks== ===Muŗi=== [[File:IndianFood Bhelpuri.jpg|thumb|Jhal Muri]] Muŗi (puffed rice) is made by heating sand in a pot, and then throwing in grains of rice. The rice may have been washed i brine to provide seasoning. The rice puffs up and is separated from the sand by a strainer. Muŗi is very popular and is used in a wide variety of secular and religious occasions, or even just consumed plain. Muri is also often used as a replacement for or in combination with regular rice. A variant of muŗi is khoi, which is popped rice. Both varieties are used to make many different snack foods. ===Jhal-Muŗi=== One of the most popular and iconic snack foods of Bengal, ''jhal'' literally means 'hot' or 'spicy'. Jhal-muŗi is puffed rice with spices, vegetables and raw mustard oil. Depending on what is added, there are many kinds of jhal-muŗi but the most common is a ''bhôrta'' made of chopped shallot, ''jira'' roasted ground cumin, ''bitnoon'' black salt ''lôngka'' / ''morich'' chilis (either ''kacha'' 'ripe' or ''shukna'' 'dried'), mustard oil, ''dhone pata'' (fresh coriander leaves) and mudhi.[[File: Joynagar_Moa_-_Howrah_2016-01-26_9258.JPG|thumb|[[Jaynagarer Moa]]]] ===Moa=== A moa is made by taking muri with [[jaggery|gur (jaggery)]] as a binder and forming it into a ball, made all over [[Bengal]]. Another popular kind of moa is ''[[Jaynagarer Moa]]'', a moa particularly made in [[Jaynagar]], which uses kanakchur khoi and nolen gur as binder. Nolen gur is fresh jaggery made from the sap of date palm. Moas are made specially during winter. ===Chir̦e Bhaja=== Chir̦e Bhaja is made up of Flattened rice fried in sand and then strained in metal strainers, not tea strainer. It is mostly consumed with fried peanuts, jhuri-bhaja and fried curry leaves . ===Rolls=== Though the culture of having several types of Rolls are not authentic Bengali cuisine but it has a partial Awadhi touch made in Bengali style. Usually common within office goers and students. Predominantly nonveg, it is prepared by lacha paratha wrapped with egg or stuffed with chicken, chicken tikka, mutton keema and so on, sometimes with paneer and onion on demand.[[File:Dahi puri, Doi phuchka.jpg|thumb|Phuchka]] ===Kochuri-AlurDam/Dalpuri-Alupuri=== Kochuri has its advent from the time immemorial. It is pulses stuffed in Puri or Luchi and paired with Alur dam or Cholar Dal. ===Phuchka=== Also known as Golgappa within North India, Kolkata Phuchka has its own flavour and taste. It is a very good appetizer where each small golgappa is stuffed with potato smash and tamarind. Usage of 'Bhaja Masala' or Fried spices powder and chilli makes it goes mouth watering. ===Chotpoti=== Chotpoti is a very popular snack food item in Bengal. It is mainly cooked whole yellow peas with various spices, and dressed with smashed fuchka, boiled egg, green chilies etc. It is serve with tamarind juice (tetuler tok). ===Shingara=== It is snacks created with potato and flour. This triangular shaped dish is made by making a cone using flour and pouring the cooked potato in it and after that it is cooked in hot oil. ==See also== * [[Bangladeshi cuisine]] * [[List of Bangladeshi dishes]] * [[List of Bangladeshi spices]] * [[Chaunk]] == References == {{Reflist}} ==Further reading== * {{cite book | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=VOtf8GtTptAC&pg=PA158 | title=The migrant's table: meals and memories in Bengali-American households. | publisher=Temple University Press | year=2004 | ISBN=1-59213-096-8 | accessdate=14 October 2011 | author=Ray, Krishnendu}} == External links == * [https://traveltriangle.com/blog/kolkata-cuisine/ Kolkata Cuisine- Travel Triangle] {{Cuisine}} {{DEFAULTSORT:Bengali Cuisine}} [[Category:Bengali cuisine| ]] [[Category:Northeast Indian cuisine]]'