Examine individual changes

'{{Use dmy dates|date=November 2011}} {{more footnotes|date=February 2008}} {{Infobox sportsperson | name = Mark Inglis | honorific_suffix = {{post-nominals|country=NZL|ONZM|size=100%}} | image = WasteMinz Conference 2009 - Mark Inglis.jpg | image_size = | caption = Inglis in 2009 | birth_name = Mark Joseph Inglis | birth_date = {{Birth date and age|df=yes|1959|9|27}} | birth_place = [[Geraldine, New Zealand|Geraldine]], New Zealand | death_date = | death_place = | death_cause = | resting_place = | resting_place_coordinates = | residence = [[Hanmer Springs]], New Zealand | other_names = | known_for = | education = | employer = | occupation = [[Mountaineer]]<br />[[Motivational speaker]] | salary = | networth = | height = | weight = | term = | predecessor = | successor = | party = | boards = | religion = | spouse = | partner = | children = | parents = | relatives = | signature = | website = {{URL|https://www.markinglisunlimited.co.nz/|MarkInglisUnlimited.co.nz}} | footnotes = }} '''Mark Joseph Inglis''' {{post-nominals|country=NZL|ONZM|size=85%}} (born 27 September 1959) is a New Zealand [[mountaineer]], [[researcher]], [[winemaker]] and [[motivational speaker]]. He holds a degree in Human [[Biochemistry]] from [[Lincoln University, New Zealand]], and has conducted research on [[leukaemia]]. He is also an accomplished [[cycle racing|cyclist]] and, as a double leg amputee, won a silver medal in the [[Cycling at the 2000 Summer Paralympics#Track cycling|1&nbsp;km time trial]] event at the [[2000 Summer Paralympics]] in [[Sydney]]. He is the first double amputee to reach the summit of [[Mount Everest]], the highest mountain in the world. In addition to being a goodwill ambassador for the Everest Rescue Trust, Inglis has created a New Zealand-based [[charitable trust]] Limbs4All. He has also created a range of [[sports drink]]s and energy gels named PeakFuel. == Mountaineering == Born in [[Geraldine, New Zealand|Geraldine]],<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.speakingtree.in/blog/the-true-story-of-mark-inglis |title=The true story of Mark Inglis |website=speakingtree.in |accessdate=10 July 2019}}</ref> Inglis began work as a professional mountaineer in 1979 as a [[search and rescue]] mountaineer for [[Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park]]. In 1982 Inglis and climbing partner Philip Doole were stuck in a [[snow cave]] on [[Aoraki / Mount Cook]] for 13 days due to an intense [[blizzard]]. The rescue of the two climbers was a major [[media event]] in New Zealand. Both men's legs became badly [[frost bite|frost bitten]] while awaiting rescue. Following Inglis's rescue, both his legs were [[amputate]]d 14&nbsp;cm below the knee. He returned to Mt. Cook in 2002 and reached the summit successfully on 7 January of that year, after a previous attempt was thwarted by problems with his legs. The summit assault in January 2002 was documented by the film ''No Mean Feat: The Mark Inglis Story''. In 2003, Inglis received the [[New Zealand Order of Merit]] as an Officer in recognition of his services to disabled people. On 27 September 2004, he successfully climbed [[Cho Oyu]] with three others, becoming only the second double amputee to [[wikt:summit|summit]] a mountain greater than {{convert|8000|m}} in height. On 15 May 2006, after 40 days of climbing, Inglis became the first ever double amputee to reach the summit of [[Mount Everest]], the highest mountain in the world. While [[Acclimatization|acclimatizing]] at {{convert|6400|m}}, a [[Glossary of climbing terms#F|fixed-line]] [[anchor (climbing)|anchor]] failed, resulting in Inglis falling and breaking one of his [[carbon fiber]] [[prosthetic leg]]s in half. It was temporarily repaired with [[duct tape]], while a spare was brought up from [[base camp]]. Inglis's Everest expedition was filmed for the [[Discovery Channel]] series ''[[Everest: Beyond the Limit]]''. === David Sharp controversy === {{Main|David Sharp (mountaineer)#Mark Inglis controversy}} While ascending Everest, Inglis and a party of 18 other climbers came upon distressed British climber [[David Sharp (mountaineer)|David Sharp]], but continued pushing towards the summit. Sharp subsequently died. Inglis has been criticized for this decision by many people including [[Edmund Hillary|Sir Edmund Hillary]], who said he should have abandoned any attempt at the summit to help a fellow climber. Inglis has dismissed the criticism by saying that the decision was actually made by expedition leader [[Russell Brice]], who was at the base camp. He also stated that the "trouble is at 8,500 metres it's extremely difficult to keep yourself alive, let alone anyone else alive." Some other climbers have agreed with this assessment, claiming there is little that can be done for a seriously ill person that close to the summit. However, Phil Ainslie, a mountaineer and scientist at the [[University of Otago]], has said that it might have been possible to revive Sharp with bottled oxygen and get him to safety. In an e-mailed statement to the [[Associated Press]] on 10 June, the expedition leader Russell Brice contradicted comments by Inglis by saying that he only knew [[David Sharp (mountaineer)|David Sharp]] was in distress when his team contacted him by radio during their descent.<ref>[https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5542011 Amputee Lauded, Criticized for Everest Climb : NPR<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref><ref>[http://outside.away.com/outside/destinations/200609/mount-everest-climbing-ethics-2.html Mount Everest Climbing Ethics | Outside Online<!-- Bot generated title -->] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061018134455/http://outside.away.com/outside/destinations/200609/mount-everest-climbing-ethics-2.html |date=18 October 2006 }}</ref> Brice received many radio messages (many of which were heard by others) that night and a full log was kept. There is no record of any call from Mark Inglis. The group continued to the summit, passing David Sharp, without offering any assistance. Sharp was in a grave condition. On their descent, passing back through the cave several hours later, the group found Sharp near death. Inglis' fellow climber, [[Maxime Chaya]] (or Max) and Chaya's Sherpa mountaineering partner attempted to help David Sharp, but to no avail. ==Personal life== Inglis currently resides in [[Hanmer Springs]], [[New Zealand]], with his wife Anne and their three children. In 2007, he was honoured by [[TVNZ]]'s ''[[This Is Your Life (New Zealand TV series)|This Is Your Life]]''. == Books authored == Inglis has authored four books: * ''No Mean Feat'' documents his entrapment and rescue from Mt. Cook, his successful summit of the same mountain in 2002, and his efforts in the [[Paralympics]] * ''To the Max: a Teen Reader's Version of No Mean Feat'' * ''Off the Front Foot'' offers views on coping with positive and negative aspects of life. * ''No Legs on Everest'' is a detailed account of his ascent of Everest including his climb of Cho Oyu. ==See also== *[[List of Mount Everest records]] == References == {{reflist}} {{refbegin}} *{{cite news|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/south_asia/4774989.stm|title=Double amputee scales Mt Everest|date=16 May 2006|publisher=BBC}} *[https://web.archive.org/web/20070928132007/http://www.himex.com/archives/chooyo04/update04.htm Information on Cho Oyu summit assault] *{{cite news|url=http://www.abc.net.au/news/2006-05-23/everest-climber-defends-leaving-dying-briton/1760488|title=Everest climber defends leaving dying Briton|date=23 May 2006|publisher=ABC}} {{refend}} == External links == * {{official website|http://www.markinglis.co.nz/}} * {{IPC athlete|mark-inglis}} * {{Paralympics New Zealand|mark-inglis-124}} * [http://www.legsoneverest.com/ Website of the 2006 expedition to Mt. Everest] * [http://www.legsoneverest.com/chartity.htm Limbs for All] {{Authority control}} {{DEFAULTSORT:Inglis, Mark}} [[Category:1959 births]] [[Category:Living people]] [[Category:New Zealand amputees]] [[Category:New Zealand mountain climbers]] [[Category:Officers of the New Zealand Order of Merit]] [[Category:Summiters of Mount Everest]] [[Category:Lincoln University (New Zealand) alumni]] [[Category:Paralympic cyclists of New Zealand]] [[Category:Cyclists at the 2000 Summer Paralympics]] [[Category:Paralympic silver medalists for New Zealand]] [[Category:People from Geraldine, New Zealand]] [[Category:New Zealand winemakers]] [[Category:Medalists at the 2000 Summer Paralympics]]'