Examine individual changes
This page allows you to examine the variables generated by the Edit Filter for an individual change.
Variables generated for this change
| Variable | Value |
|---|---|
Edit count of the user (user_editcount) | 0 |
Name of the user account (user_name) | 'Baltoroadventures' |
Type of the user account (user_type) | 'named' |
Age of the user account (user_age) | 1875 |
Groups (including implicit) the user is in (user_groups) | [
0 => '*',
1 => 'user'
] |
Whether or not a user is editing through the mobile interface (user_mobile) | false |
Whether the user is editing from mobile app (user_app) | false |
Page ID (page_id) | 59835447 |
Page namespace (page_namespace) | 0 |
Page title without namespace (page_title) | '1954 Italian expedition to K2' |
Full page title (page_prefixedtitle) | '1954 Italian expedition to K2' |
Edit protection level of the page (page_restrictions_edit) | [] |
Last ten users to contribute to the page (page_recent_contributors) | [
0 => '73.16.130.200',
1 => 'Celjski Grad',
2 => 'HolyT',
3 => '96.77.240.178',
4 => 'Cyanolinguophile',
5 => '220.235.230.15',
6 => 'Ericoides',
7 => 'Kelseymh',
8 => 'DocWatson42',
9 => 'Citation bot'
] |
Page age in seconds (page_age) | 180073996 |
Action (action) | 'edit' |
Edit summary/reason (summary) | '/* Approach to K2 */ ' |
Time since last page edit in seconds (page_last_edit_age) | 524380 |
Old content model (old_content_model) | 'wikitext' |
New content model (new_content_model) | 'wikitext' |
Old page wikitext, before the edit (old_wikitext) | '{{Short description|First successful attempt to climb K2}}
{{Use British English|date=December 2018}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2020}}
[[File:Compagnoni and Lacedelli 1954.jpg|thumb|upright=1.2|Compagnoni (left) and Lacedelli, frostbitten on their return from the summit of K2]]
On the '''1954 Italian expedition to K2''' (led by [[Ardito Desio]]), [[Achille Compagnoni]] and [[Lino Lacedelli]] became the first people to reach the summit of [[K2]], {{convert|8611|metres}}, the second-highest mountain in the world. They reached the summit on 31 July 1954. K2 is more difficult to climb than [[Mount Everest]], {{convert|8849|metres}}, which had first been climbed by [[1953 British Mount Everest expedition|a British expedition in 1953]].
Three earlier unsuccessful American attempts on the mountain had identified a good route to use. Desio felt Italy's earlier exploration of the [[Karakoram]] region gave good reason to mount a major expedition which he did on a grand scale, following the American route up the south-east ridge. Progress towards the summit was repeatedly interrupted by storms, and one member of the team died rather unexpectedly. Desio considered abandoning the expedition so as to try again by returning later in the year, but weather conditions improved allowing them to edge closer to the top of the mountain. At last, the two lead climbers reached the summit as the sun was about to set and they had to descend in the dark. They and two colleagues went on to suffer from severe frostbite.
The fact that the summit had been reached was never doubted – Compagnoni and Lacedelli had been seen by their colleagues near the summit and they had taken photographs and even a movie film from the top – but all the same the expedition became mired in argument. After [[1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy|a prolonged controversy]], the official 1954 account of the expedition eventually became discredited, and a second official account was published in 2007 which largely confirmed the claims another member of the expedition, [[Walter Bonatti]], had been making for over fifty years.
== Background ==
=== K2 ===
[[K2]] is on the border between [[China]] and what was, in 1954, the newly independent [[Pakistan]]. At {{convert|8611|m}}, it is the highest point of the [[Karakoram]] range and the [[List of highest mountains#List|second-highest mountain]] in the world.{{sfnp|Kauffman|Putnam|1992|pp=18–22}}
The mountain had been spotted in 1856 by the [[Great Trigonometrical Survey]] to [[Kashmir]],{{refn|group=note|The tallest mountains measured were called "K1" and "K2" and the higher one turned out to be K2.{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=18}}}} and by 1861 [[Henry Godwin-Austen]] had reached the [[Baltoro Glacier]] and was able to get a clear view of K2 from the slopes of [[Masherbrum]].{{refn|group=note|Hence the earlier name of K2 was "Mount Godwin-Austen".{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=21}}}} He could see that the descending glacier eventually drained to the [[Indus River]], so the mountain was in the [[British Empire]].{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|pp=18–21}}
{{external media|title=''History of climbing K2''|headerimage=[[File:K-2 and Virgin peak.jpg|200px]]|caption=''Television programs''
|video1=[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxL_bzt7Pyo&t=1089 Quest For K2 Savage Mountain]{{sfnp|Vogel|Aaronson|2000}}<br />1954 expedition starts at 18:09 minutes
|video2=[https://www.mickconefrey.co.uk/films/the-ghosts-of-k2 Mountain Men: The Ghosts of K2]{{sfnp|Conefrey|2001}}<br />1954 expedition starts at 43:00 minutes{{refn|group=note|Video hosted on Vimeo at https://vimeo.com/54661540}}
|video3=[https://www.cctv.org/watch-tv/programs/brotherhood-rope-k2-expedition-1953-dr-charles-houston Brotherhood of The Rope]{{sfnp|Houston|2005}} <br />[[Charlie Houston]] talking about [[1953 American Karakoram expedition|1953 expedition]] (start 05:50) and narrating film (starting 15:35){{refn|group=note|Video hosted on Google at https://storage.googleapis.com/cctv-library/cctv/library/2005/01/DrHouston_01092005/DrHouston_01092005.broadband.mp4}}}}
The first serious attempt to climb the mountain was in 1902 by a party including [[Aleister Crowley]], who later became notorious as "the Wickedest Man in the World". The expedition examined ascent routes both north and south of the mountain and made best progress up the north-east ridge before they were forced to abandon their efforts.{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|pp=58–60}} Since that time, K2 has developed the reputation of being a more difficult mountain to climb than [[Mount Everest]] – every route to the summit is tough.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=xii}}{{refn|group=note|K2 may be the most challenging of all the [[eight-thousander|eight thousand meter mountains]], though [[Annapurna]] has a higher death rate for climbers than either Everest or K2.<ref>{{cite journal|last1=Day|first1=Henry|title=Annapurna Anniversaries|journal=Alpine Journal|date=2010|pages=181–189|url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf|access-date=2 February 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160601053307/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf|archive-date=1 June 2016|url-status=live}}</ref> Kauffman and Putnam liken the comparison between Everest and K2 to that between [[Mont Blanc]] and the [[Matterhorn]] in the [[Alps]].{{sfnp|Kauffman|Putnam|1992|p=18}}}} K2 is farther north than the [[Himalaya]]n mountains so the climate is colder; the Karakoram range is wider than the Himalayan so more ice and snow is trapped there.{{sfnp|Curran|1995|loc=156/3989}}
Before the successful Italian ascent, the expedition that had previously climbed highest on K2 had been the [[1939 American Karakoram expedition to K2|1939 American Karakoram expedition]] which reached {{convert|27450|ft|order=flip}}.{{sfnp|Kauffman|Putnam|1992|p=117}}
=== Previous Italian expeditions in the Baltoro Muztagh Karakoram ===
In 1890, Roberto Lerco entered the [[Baltoro Muztagh]] region of the [[Karakoram]]. He reached the foot of K2 and may even have climbed a short way up its south-east spur, but he did not leave an account of his journey.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=xvi}}{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=42}}
[[File:K2 from Godwin-Austen glacier, Vittorio Sella, 1909 (cropped).jpg|thumb|upright|K2 from [[Godwin-Austen Glacier]] (photo [[Vittorio Sella|Sella]] 1909)]]
In 1909, the [[Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi|Duke of the Abruzzi]] expedition again explored various routes before reaching about {{convert|6250|m}} on the south-east ridge before deciding the mountain was unclimbable. This route later became known as the [[Abruzzi Spur|Abruzzi Ridge]] (or Abruzzi Spur) and eventually became regarded as the standard route to the summit.{{sfnp|Kauffman|Putnam|1992|pp=18–22}}
In 1929, [[Prince Aimone, Duke of Aosta|Aimone di Savoia-Aosta]], the nephew of the Duke of the Abruzzi, led an expedition to explore the upper Baltoro Glacier, near to K2. The geologist on the party was [[Ardito Desio]], and he came to feel that there was an Italian claim for attempts on the mountain.{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|pp=198–199}} It was only in 1939 that Desio could interest Italy's governing body for mountaineering, the ''[[Club Alpino Italiano]]'' (CAI), but [[World War II]] and the [[Partition of India]] delayed things further.{{sfnp|Sale|2011|pp=102–103}} Later, in 1952, Desio travelled to Pakistan as a preliminary for leading a full expedition in 1953 only to discover that the Americans had already booked the single climbing permit for that year. He returned in 1953 with [[Riccardo Cassin]] to reconnoitre the lower slopes of K2.<ref>{{cite web |title=Biografia Desio |url=http://www.arditodesio.it/biografia.html |website=www.arditodesio.it |publisher=Ardito Desio Association |accessdate=7 December 2018 |language=it |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304084939/http://www.arditodesio.it/biografia.html |archive-date=4 March 2016 |url-status=live }}</ref>{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=314}} At that time, Cassin was the greatest Italian mountaineer there had been, and yet in Desio's report of the reconnaissance, Cassin is not mentioned except to say "I had chosen Ricardo Cassin, a climber, to whose travelling expenses the Italian Alpine Club had generously contributed".{{sfnp|Viesturs|2009|p=197}} It was only after his return to Italy that Desio heard he had been granted the permit for the 1954 summit attempt.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=188}}
== Preparation for 1954 expedition ==
In [[Rawalpindi]], at the start of his 1953 visit to Pakistan, Desio had met [[Charlie Houston]], leader of the unsuccessful [[1953 American Karakoram expedition]] who was returning from K2. On both the [[1938 American Karakoram reconnaissance expedition|1938 expedition]] and the [[1953 American Karakoram expedition|1953 expedition]], Houston had climbed the entire Abruzzi Ridge, scaling its most difficult cliffs, [[House's Chimney]], and had been able to reach about {{convert|26000|ft|order=flip}} from where a feasible route to the summit could be observed.{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|pp=207–215, 314}} Even though the American was planning another attempt on the summit for 1954, he was generous in sharing his experience and photographs with Desio, an obvious rival.{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=314}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=186}}
Desio planned a far larger expedition than the American ones – the cost estimate of 100 million [[Italian lira|lira]] (equivalent to [[United States dollar|US$]]{{inflation|US|0.16|1954|r=1}} million in {{Inflation/year|US}}) was eight times greater than Houston's and three times greater than the successful [[1953 British Mount Everest expedition|1953 British Everest expedition]].{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=189}} It was sponsored by the CAI and it became a matter of national prestige, also involving the [[Italian Olympic Committee]] and the [[National Research Council (Italy)|Italian National Research Council]].{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|pp=314–315}} The French success on [[1950 French Annapurna expedition|Annapurna in 1950]] and British success on [[1953 British Mount Everest expedition|Mount Everest in 1953]] had had immense impacts in their respective countries.{{sfnp|Viesturs|2009|p=194}} Desio wrote "the expedition will of necessity be organised along military lines"; as in the 1950 French Annapurna expedition, the Italian climbers were all required to formally pledge allegiance to their leader, Desio.{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|pp=243, 314–315}} Scientific research – geography and geology – was to be as important as reaching the top of the mountain. Indeed, it seems that Desio, professor of geology at [[University of Milan|Milan]], held climbers in rather low regard.{{refn|group=note|In 1953 Desio had travelled by air in Italy and from [[Karachi]] to [[Rawalpindi]], while Cassin had to go by train. Both men flew from Rome to Karachi, however.{{sfnp|Sale|2011|p=103}}}}{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=262}}{{sfnp|Sale|2011|pp=103–105}}
[[File:1954 Italian K2 team.jpg|thumb|Italian team members at Base Camp before the ascent{{refn|group=note|In the June group photo the team members were: standing, left to right: Achille Compagnoni, Ugo Angelino, Gino Pagani (doctor), Mario Fantin (film maker), Ardito Desio (leader, arms crossed), Erich Abram, Gino Solda, Lino Lacedelli, Walter Bonatti, Sergio Viotto, Pino Gallotti; front: Ubaldo Rey, Cirillo Floreanini, Mario Puchoz.}}]]
There were to be eleven climbers, all of them Italian, none of whom had been to Himalaya before: Enrico Abram (32 years), Ugo Angelino (32), [[Walter Bonatti]] (24), [[Achille Compagnoni]] (40), Cirillo Floreanini (30), Pino Gallotti (36), [[Lino Lacedelli]] (29), [[Mario Puchoz]] (36), Ubaldo Rey (31), [[Gino Soldà]] (47) and {{ill|Sergio Viotto|it}} (26). There were ten Pakistani [[Hunza people|Hunza]] high-altitude porters, with [[Amir Mahdi]] (41) turning out to be the most prominent.{{refn|group=note|Mahdi (also transliterated Mehdi) came from [[Hassanabad, Chorbat|Hassanabad]].{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=220}} [[Burusho people|Hunza]]s did the equivalent work of Nepali [[Sherpas]].}} Also on the team was a filmmaker, {{ill|Mario Fantin|it}}, and a team doctor, Guido Pagani. The scientific team, in addition to Desio (who was 57 years old), comprised Paolo Graziosi (ethnographer), {{ill|Antonio Marussi|it}} (geophysicist), {{ill|Bruno Zanettin|it}} (petrologist), and Francesco Lombardi (topographer). Muhammad Ata-Ullah was the Pakistani liaison officer.<ref>{{cite web |author1=Himalaya Masala |title=K2 – Abruzzi Spur – 1954 |url=http://www.himalayamasala.com/himalayan-climbs/k2-abruzzi-spur-1954 |website=Himalaya Masala |accessdate=9 December 2018 |language=en |date=28 September 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180426084305/http://www.himalayamasala.com/himalayan-climbs/k2-abruzzi-spur-1954 |archive-date=26 April 2018 |url-status=unfit }}</ref>{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=263–264}}{{sfnp|Desio|1955a|p=6}}
[[Riccardo Cassin]], the pre-eminent Italian Alpinist, had been nominated by the CAI as climbing leader but, after Desio's rigorous selection procedures, he was rejected, supposedly on medical grounds, though it was speculated that it had really been to avoid Desio being outshone.{{sfnp|Sale|2011|pp=104–105}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=189–191}}
The plan was for nearly {{convert|3|mi|order=flip|sigfig=1}} of fixed nylon ropes to be placed up the complete length of the Abruzzi Ridge and some way beyond and, where possible, loads on sledges were to be winched along these ropes. Each camp was to be fully established before the next higher camp was occupied. [[Open circuit breathing apparatus|Open-circuit oxygen systems]] were used and members were equipped with two-way radio.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=263–264, 267,268}}
The expedition left Italy by air in April 1954 and the baggage, which went by sea, arrived in Karachi on 13 April and then travelled by rail to Rawalpindi.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=263, 265}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=195}}
==Official published accounts of the climb==
{{further|1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy}}
Desio wrote the official account of the ascent in his 1954 book ''La Conquista del K2'',{{sfnp|Desio|1954}}{{refn|group=note|The official account is translated into English as ''Victory over K2''{{sfnp|Desio|1956}}}} but this account was disputed over many years by Bonatti and, eventually, Lacedelli and others. That Compagnoni and Lacedelli had reached the summit of K2 was not in dispute – at issue was the extent to which they had depended on support from other climbers high on the mountain, how they had treated Bonatti and Madhi, whether they used oxygen all the way to the top, and whether Desio's book was accurate and fair. The matter became increasingly controversial with a great deal of press criticism, often uninformed. Desio died in 2001 at the age of 104 and, eventually, in 2004 the [[Club Alpino Italiano|CAI]] appointed three experts, called "{{lang|it|I Tre Saggi}}" (the three wise men), to investigate. They produced a 39-page report in April 2004,{{sfnp|Marshall|2009|pp=143–154}}{{refn|group=note|{{lang|it|I Tre Saggi}} were [[Fosco Maraini]], {{ill|Luigi Zanzi|it}} and {{ill|Alberto Monticone|it}}.{{sfnp|Marshall|2009|pp=145–146}}}} but the CAI delayed until 2007 its publication of ''K2 – Una Storia Finita'' which included and accepted the {{lang|it|Tre Saggi}} report.{{sfnp|Maraini|Monticone|Zanzi|CAI|2007}}{{refn|group=note|An English description of ''K2 – Una Storia Finita'' including a translation of much of its contents is given in Marshall's ''K2 – a Final Report'' which also includes an extended commentary that, in short, confirms Bonatti's version of events.{{sfnp|Marshall|2009|pp=155–174}}}}
The account of the climb given here is based on recent sources which have been able to take into account the CAI's second official report, ''K2 – Una Storia Finita'' (2007). The scientific (geographical and geological) aspects of the expedition are not covered nor is the [[1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy|controversy which went on for over fifty years]] after the return to Italy.
== Approach to K2 ==
[[File:Bonatti K2 approach.jpg|thumb|Bonatti on approach march]]
After delays due to poor weather, on 27 April the expedition flew by [[Douglas DC-3|DC-3]] from Rawalpindi to [[Skardu]]. Desio took the opportunity of using the aircraft to survey the region's topography and snow conditions, which seemed similar to those in Houston's photographs of the previous year. The mountains were higher than the aircraft's [[service ceiling]] so they needed to circumnavigate K2.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=265}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=196}} The scientific party then departed on their separate itinerary. Five hundred locally appointed [[Balti people|Balti]] porters carried over {{convert|13|ST|MT|order=flip}} of equipment, including 230 oxygen cylinders, via [[Askole]] and [[Concordia (Karakoram)|Concordia]] towards Base Camp on the [[Godwin-Austen Glacier]].{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=266–267}}{{sfnp|Desio|1955a|p=5}}
[[File:Approach to K2, 1954.svg|thumb|Skardu to K2 approach route]]
Between Skardu and Askole several bridges had been built in the previous year so this part of the journey was much quicker than before. After Askole they were unable to buy food locally for the porters so they needed to hire another hundred men simply to carry flour for the main porters to make their [[chapati]]s. So as to minimise weight, Desio had provided little for the porters apart from food, a blanket each, and tarpaulins to be used as tents. They had no protective clothes. Unfortunately there was bad weather – snow as well as heavy rain whereas the previous year the weather had been fine and sunny – the porters started refusing to go on, even after being offered [[backsheesh]]. At Urdukas 120 porters turned back and the others halted – next morning some porters wandered back down and nobody would proceed. On Ata-Ullah's advice the [[Sahib#Colonial and modern use|sahibs]] went on ahead and, for a while, the porters disconsolately followed at a distance. Then there was a critical problem. The sun came out and, with it shining on the snow, the porters were struck with snow blindness. Snow goggles had been brought for them but half of them had been left behind to save weight. When eventually only one porter remained with the party they had to recruit fresh porters from back at Askole. By the time they had struggled to get Base Camp established on 28 May they had been delayed by fifteen days.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=266–267}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=198–201}}{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=315}}{{sfnp|Desio|1955a|pp=9–10}}
== Line of ascent of K2 ==
[[File:K2 Italian Route.jpg|thumb|Abruzzi Ridge route]]
The route to be taken was the same as for the American expeditions with camps planned for similar locations.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=314}}
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! colspan="5" | Locations of camps on mountain
|-
! rowspan="2" | Camp
! colspan="2" | Altitude<br />{{refn|group=note|Altitudes have needed to be drawn from a variety of sources – later sources have been preferred. The figures are referenced in either the "metres" or "feet" column according to the source. The unreferenced cell is a mathematical conversion of the associated figure.}}
! rowspan="2" | Established
! rowspan="2" | Location
|-
! metres !! feet
|-
| Base || {{convert|16400|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 16,400{{sfnp|Desio|1956|p=128}} || 28 May{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=315}} || [[Godwin-Austen Glacier]]{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=48}}
|-
| I || {{convert|17700|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 17,700{{sfnp|Desio|1956|p=150}} || 30 May{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=267}} || foot of [[Abruzzi Spur|Abruzzi Ridge]]{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=82}}
|-
| II || {{convert|19900|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 19,900{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=203}} || 2 June{{sfnp|Desio|1955a|p=11}} || sheltered spot on Ridge
|-
| III || {{convert|20700|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 20,700{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=154, 203}} || ||
|-
| IV || {{convert|21150|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 21,150{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=207}} || 16 June{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=267}} || below [[House's Chimney]]
|-
| V || {{convert|22000|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 22,000{{sfnp|Viesturs|2009|p=203}} || 4 July{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=268}} || right above House's Chimney, start of sharp part of Ridge{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=56}}{{sfnp|Kauffman|Putnam|1992|pp=78–79}}
|-
| VI || {{convert|23300|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 23,300{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=156}} || 7 July{{sfnp|Desio|1956|p=168}} || base of Black Tower (or Pyramid){{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=175–176}}
|-
| VII || 7,345{{sfnp|Maraini|Monticone|Zanzi|2004|p=215}} || {{convert|7345|m|disp=number}} ||26 July{{sfnp|Curran|1995|loc=1459/3989}} || above Ridge and below Shoulder at {{convert|25000|ft|order=flip}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=211}}
|-
| VIII || 7,627{{sfnp|Maraini|Monticone|Zanzi|2004|p=215}}<br />{{refn|group=note| The oxygen bottles were left somewhere between 7,375 and 7,400 m.{{sfnp|Marshall|2009|pp=169–170, 214–215}} According to Bonatti the Camp VIII was originally to be at about {{convert|25400|ft|order=flip}}.{{sfnp|Bonatti|2010|p=108}}}}|| {{convert|7627|m|disp=number}} || 28 July{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=315}} || foot of ice wall overlooking a crevasse{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=213}}
|-
| IX || 8,150{{sfnp|Maraini|Monticone|Zanzi|2004|p=213}}<br />{{refn|group=note|The original plan had been to site Camp IX at 8,000 – 8,100 m and the plan of 30 July was to site it instead at 7,900 m. Bonatti and Mahdi's bivouac was at 8,100 m.{{sfnp|Marshall|2009|pp=170, 212, 214}}}} || {{convert|8150|m|disp=number}} || 30 July{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=170–171}} || above rocky slabs near start of [[Bottleneck (K2)|Bottleneck]]{{sfnp|Maraini|Monticone|Zanzi|2004|pp=212–213}}
|-
| Summit || {{convert|28251|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 28,251{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=xii}} || 31 July{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|p=173}} ||
|}
The Abruzzi Ridge can be climbed by strong climbers from Base Camp up to Camp VI in a few hours of good weather but it can also be a dangerous place to be. Between Camp IV and Camp VII the ridge is sharp, steep and unrelenting with exposure and rockfall being problems on the lower section. Strong winds can be a major difficulty – K2 partly protects the major [[eight-thousander]]s to the south but is itself very exposed to storms.{{sfnp|Kauffman|Putnam|1992|pp=75–79}}
==Progress on the mountain==
===Ascending the mountain===
By 16 June Camp IV was established at the foot of House's Chimney, using the winch to haul supplies up to Camp II. In 1953 Houston's party had found the Hunzas to be better on the mountain than had been expected. However, Desio felt let down – part of the difficulty was that English was their only language in common and, apart from Desio himself, no one was fluent in English. Tragedy struck the expedition at an early stage: after Puchoz had descended to Camp II he developed problems with his throat and his condition deteriorated until, despite good medical treatment and ample medicines and oxygen, he died with symptoms of pneumonia on 21 June.{{refn|group=note|Puchoz succumbed to what is now thought to be [[pulmonary edema]].{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=315}}}} The next day everyone descended to Base Camp just as a fierce snow storm erupted. When the storm abated they were able to recover Puchoz's body to Base Camp and on 27 June they ascended to bury him beside the [[Gilkey Memorial|memorial cairn]] to [[Art Gilkey]] who had died on the 1953 American expedition.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=267–268}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=202–207}}
The expedition was by now almost a month behind schedule so Desio announced that the climb should be resumed immediately after the funeral. However, apart from Compagnoni, none of the climbers were willing to do this and Abram spoke up on their behalf. Desio had an authoritarian approach to leadership (behind his back he was called "''il Ducetto''", "little [[Mussolini]]"). He was in the habit of issuing written encouragements and orders. For example, on one occasion he pinned up a notice:
{{quote|"Remember if you succeed in scaling the peak – as I am confident you will – the entire world will hail you as champions of your race and your fame will endure throughout your lives and long after you're dead. Thus even if you never achieve anything else of note, you will be able to say that you have not lived in vain."}}
When interviewed later about it Lacedelli said "We just ignored him and got on with it".{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=207–209}}
The climbers again spread out across the various camps and Compagnoni and Rey scaled House's Chimney but then another storm confined everyone to their tents. On 5 July, Compagnoni (who Desio had nominated to lead the high-level climbing), Abram and Gallotti established Camp V and then two days later reached Camp VI with fixed ropes now running all the way up from Camp I. They used the ropes from the 1953 expedition to reach camp VII although, on descending, the ropes slipped from their anchor points causing Floreanini to fall {{convert|700|ft|order=flip|round=50}} but suffering no very serious injury.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=268}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=209}}
On 18 July Compagnoni and Rey, followed by Bonatti and Lacedelli, set ropes as high as the American Camp VIII at the base of the summit plateau. Camp VI had been at the site of the American Camp VII but they moved it higher to avoid what they considered was a dangerous location.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|p=169}} Successive severe storms made progress much slower than expected and Desio wrote to the CAI saying he was contemplating returning to Italy and staging a new assault in the autumn with a smaller team of fresh climbers, but using the existing fixed ropes. But then the weather improved.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=212–213}} On 28 July Camp VIII was established at {{convert|7627|m}} for a summit attempt by Compagnoni and Lacedelli. Next day they climbed higher but, unable to find a good location for their highest camp, Camp IX, they left their rucksacks and returned to Camp VIII, now realising they would need supplementary oxygen for the summit. The place where they had been trying to set Camp IX was beside a wall of ice at {{convert|8000|m}}, beside what later became known as the [[Bottleneck (K2)|Bottleneck]].{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=169–170}}{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=317}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=214}} Also on 29 July four climbers at Camp VII went up with two oxygen sets (each weighing {{convert|18|kg}}), a tent and extra food towards Camp VIII but Abram and Rey had to turn back and only Bonatti and Gallotti got there – they had needed to abandon the oxygen sets at about {{convert|7400|m}}. By evening Mahdi and Isakhan reached Camp VII.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=169–170}}
=== Preparing for the summit attempt===
For 30 July the four men at Camp VIII agreed that while Compagnoni and Lacedelli would climb to try to establish Camp IX, Bonatti and Gallotti would descend to fetch the oxygen just above Camp VII and then carry the heavy oxygen equipment all the way up to Camp IX, via Camp VIII. The fetching of the oxygen would be a far greater challenge than the establishment of the high camp – it would involve a descent of {{convert|600|ft|order=flip}} followed by an ascent of {{convert|1600|ft|order=flip}}. They would tell climbers at Camp VII to bring up more supplies to VIII. Meanwhile, Compagnoni and Lacedelli would establish Camp IX at a lower level of {{convert|7900|m}} to reduce the height the oxygen needed to be carried.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=216–217}} In the event they established their high camp not at the lower level, where there was deep powdery snow, but at {{convert|8150|m}} across a difficult traverse over dangerous slab rocks which took almost an hour to achieve. They had very little food and, although they had oxygen masks with them, not the actual gas cylinders.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|p=172}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=218–219}}
Bonatti, Gallotti, Abram, Mahdi and Isakhan all met and reached Camp VIII by noon on 30 July. At 15:30 Bonatti, Abram and Mahdi went on with the oxygen cylinders towards Camp IX.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=169–172}} The Hunzas had not been provided with high-altitude boots and to induce Mahdi to go on higher Bonatti had offered him a cash bonus and had also hinted that he might be allowed to go right up to the summit. They went without a tent or sleeping bags.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=217–218}} At about 16:30 they shouted and heard a reply from the summit team at Camp IX but could not locate them nor see any tracks to follow. They climbed higher but by 18:30 the sun was setting and Abram had to go down because of frostbite. They now could see tracks in the snow but still no tent and it would be dark imminently. Mahdi was starting to panic. On dangerous terrain sloping at 50° and still with the heavy oxygen sets they called again but had to come to a halt at {{convert|8100|m}}.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=169–172}}
Bonatti dug out a small step in the ice in preparation for an emergency overnight [[Bivouac shelter|bivouac]] without a tent or sleeping bags. After more shouting, at 22:00 a flashlight <!-- As a Brit writing a Briteng article I think "torch" may be obscure to some but "flashlight" always comprehensible -->shone from quite nearby and slightly higher up the mountain and they could hear Lacedelli shouting to tell them to leave the oxygen and go back down. After that the light went out and there was silence. Bonatti and Mahdi spent the rest of the night in the open until at 05:30, against Bonatti's advice, Mahdi started going down by himself in the dark to Camp VIII.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=169–172}} Bonatti waited until about 06:30 when it was getting light before he dug the oxygen sets out of the snow and descended. While he was going down he heard a shout from somewhere above but could not see anyone. Mahdi reached Camp VIII only slightly before Bonatti at about 07:30.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=169–172}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=221}}
=== Reaching the summit ===
{{multiple image
<!-- Layout parameters -->
| align = right
| direction = horizontal
| background color =
| width =
| caption_align = center
| header_background =
| header_align = center
| header =
| image1 = Compagnoni summit K2.jpg
| width1 =
| alt1 =
| thumbtime1 =
| caption1 = Achille Compagnoni
| image2 = Lacedelli summit K2 improved resolution.png
| width2 =
| alt2 =
| thumbtime2 =
| caption2 = Lino Lacedelli
| footer_background =
| footer_align = center
| footer = Summit photographs of the two climbers
}}
At about 06:30–06:45 on 31 July Compagnoni and Lacedelli left their tent and saw someone (they could not tell who) descending and were shocked to think they must have spent the night in the open.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=173–174}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=221–222}}{{refn|group=note|Desio's account says they left Camp IX at 05:00{{sfnp|Desio|1956|pp=194–196}} and this discrepancy of times led to the later trouble about whether the supplementary oxygen would have run out before reaching the summit.}} They recovered the gas cylinders between about 07:15 and 07:45, and from there set off for the summit at about 08:30, now breathing supplementary oxygen.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=173–174}} To save weight they abandoned their rucksacks and, for nourishment, only took sweets. The route through the Bottleneck was blocked with snow and they could not climb the cliffs as [[1939 American Karakoram expedition to K2|Wiessner had done in 1939]]. Eventually they found a line close to Wiessner's up though mixed ice and rock.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=222–225}} The people below at Camp VIII were briefly able to see them ascending the final slope just before Compagnoni and Lacedelli reached the summit arm in arm at about 18:00, Saturday, 31 July. Gallotti wrote in his diary:
{{Quote|On the final slope, which was incredibly steep looking, first one tiny dot, and then a second, slowly made their way up. I may see many more things in this life, but nothing will ever move me in this same way. I cried silently, the teardrops falling on my chest.}}
They took a few photos and a brief movie film as the sun was setting. Lacedelli wanted to go down as soon as possible but Compagnoni said he wanted to spend the night on the summit. Only after being threatened with Lacedelli's ice-axe did he turn to descend.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=173–174}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=226}}
=== Descending the mountain===
[[File:Italian K2 expedition,1954, version 2 (cropped).jpg|thumb|Italian team members at Base Camp after the ascent, August 1954{{refn|group=note|The team members were, from left standing: Ubaldo Rey, Ugo Angelino, Walter Bonatti, Ardito Desio (leader, arms crossed), Lino Lacedelli, Erich Abram, Gino Soldà, Achille Compagnoni, Cirillo Floreanini. From left seated: Sergio Viotto, Mario Fantin (film maker), Guido Pagani (doctor), Pino Gallotti.}}]]
In the darkness they headed down this time descending Bottleneck Couloir{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=228}} and after a while their oxygen ran out.{{refn|group=note|Both climbers said their oxygen ran out (at very similar times) before they reached the summit. A good deal of the [[1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy|controversy over the coming years]] was about how long the oxygen really lasted.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=173–174}}}} They had great difficulty crossing a crevasse and descending the ice wall just above Camp VIII and both men fell but eventually their companions heard their shouts and emerged to help them back to Camp VIII just after 23:00.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=228–229}} Next day, in poor weather, they descended the fixed ropes to Camp IV by 11:00. By 2 August everyone was back at Base Camp.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=270}} Compagnoni, Lacedelli and Bonatti had serious frostbite to their hands but Mahdi's feet were also affected and his condition was much worse.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=229–230}}
==Return home==
On 3 August the news of the success reached Italy but, in accordance with an earlier collective agreement suggested by Floreanini, the names of the climbers who had reached the summit were kept secret. Their triumph was very big news in Italy, but internationally it made less impact than [[1953 British Mount Everest expedition|the previous year's ascent of Everest]], which had been boosted by the [[coronation of Elizabeth II]]. After some recuperation the party left base camp on 11 August{{refn|group=note|Desio had departed on 7 August to resume his geological research for the scientific aspects of the expedition.}} with Compagnoni going ahead, wanting to hasten to Italy for hospital treatment. Lacedelli, with Pagnini's medical support, preferred to take things more slowly to try to avoid unnecessary amputations of his fingers. Mahdi was much the worst affected and went to hospital in Skardu, eventually having nearly all his fingers and toes amputated.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=231–236}}{{sfnp|Viesturs|2009|p=216}}
[[File:Ardito Desio 1954.jpg|thumb|upright|left|Desio returning to Italy after the expedition]]
The press speculated, mostly correctly, on who had been in the summit party and when Compagnoni flew into [[Rome]] in early September he was treated as a hero. The main party arrived at [[Genoa]] by sea later in September and Desio flew in to Rome in October. At the height of the celebrations on 12 October Desio announced the names of those who had reached the summit. This news flopped because it had been repeatedly reported (through speculation) for months. Earlier the CAI, while still refusing to name who they were, had published a photo of Compagnoni and Lacedelli on the summit.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=236–239}}
However, before the party had left Pakistan, a scandal had been making headlines in the subcontinent's press. Mahdi had been reported as saying he had been within {{convert|100|ft|order=flip}} of the summit but his two Italian companions had not allowed him to go any higher. This received very little attention internationally but the matter was serious enough for the Italian ambassador to Karachi to hold an inquiry. He did not speak to Mahdi but interviewed the Italians involved as well as Ata-Ullah, the liaison officer, to whom Mahdi had made his complaints.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=236–239}} The report concluded that no porters had been near the summit; Bonatti and Mahdi turned back below Camp IX leaving the oxygen respirators; and Mahdi had been wild and undisciplined trying to escape the bivouac. This satisfied the Pakistan government and even the press calmed down.{{sfnp|Bonatti|2010|loc=Editorial written by Marshall, pp. 10, 360–361}} However, it was only very many years later that Bonatti came to believe that in reality Desio regarded the report as a cover-up (one that Desio approved of) for what he believed had been Bonatti's attempt to sabotage the expedition. This was to cause [[1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy|repercussions over the next 50 years]].{{sfnp|Bonatti|2010|loc=Editorial written by Marshall, pp. 10, 360–361}}{{sfnp|Marshall|2009}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|loc=chapters 11&12, pp. 233–271}}
It was not until 1977 that the second ascent of K2 was made – once again via the Abruzzi ridge – by a well-equipped Japanese expedition, which took 59 climbers and 1,500 porters.{{sfnp|Curran|1995|loc=1813/3989}}
{{clear}}
== Notes ==
{{reflist|group=note}}
== References ==
=== Citations ===
{{reflist|25em}}
=== Works cited ===
*{{cite book |last1=Bonatti |first1=Walter |editor1-last=Marshall |editor1-first=Robert |translator1-last=Marshall |translator1-first=Robert | title=[[The Mountains of My Life]] |date=2010 |orig-year=1st pub. 2001|publisher=Penguin |location=UK |isbn=9780141192918|type=Google ebook}} English translation of {{lang|it|Montagne di una vita}} {{harv|Bonatti|1995}}
*{{cite AV media|last1=Conefrey|first1=Mick|title=Mountain Men: The Ghosts of K2|medium=television production|language=en|url=http://mickconefrey.co.uk/films/entry/the-ghosts-of-k2|location=|publisher=BBC/TLC|date=2001|time=43:00|access-date=14 February 2019|archive-date=14 February 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190214233401/http://mickconefrey.co.uk/films/entry/the-ghosts-of-k2|url-status=dead}} The video is hosted on Vimeo at [https://vimeo.com/54661540 https://vimeo.com/54661540]
*{{cite book |last1=Conefrey|first1=Mick |title=The Ghosts of K2: the Epic Saga of the First Ascent |date=2015 |publisher=Oneworld |location=London |isbn=978-1-78074-595-4}}
*{{cite book|last=Curran|first=Jim|title=K2: The Story Of The Savage Mountain|date=1995|publisher=Hodder & Stoughton|isbn=978-1-444-77835-9|chapter=Chapter 9. A Sahib is About to Climb K2|type=Kindle ebook}}
*{{cite journal |last1=Desio |first1=Ardito |title=The 1954 Italian Expedition to the Karakoram and the Conquest of K2 |journal=Alpine Journal |year=1955a |volume=LX |issue=290 |pages=3–16 |url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1955_files/AJ60%201955%203-16%20Desio%20Italian%20Karakorum%20Exped.pdf}}
*{{cite journal |last1=Desio |first1=Ardito |title=The Ascent of K2 |journal=The Geographical Journal |year=1955b |volume=121 |issue=3 |pages=261–272 |doi=10.2307/1790890 |language=en|jstor=1790890 |bibcode=1955GeogJ.121..261D }}
*{{cite book |last1=Desio |first1=Ardito |translator1-last=Moore |translator1-first=David |title=Victory over K2: Second Highest Peak in the World |url=https://archive.org/details/victoryoverk2sec00desi|year=1956 |orig-year=1st pub 1955|publisher=McGraw Hill Book Company |language=en}} English translation of {{lang|it|La Conquista del K2}} {{harv|Desio|1954}}
*{{cite AV media |last1=Houston|first1=Charles|title=Brotherhood of The Rope- K2 Expedition 1953 with Dr. Charles Houston|medium= DVD/television production |language= en|url= https://www.cctv.org/watch-tv/programs/brotherhood-rope-k2-expedition-1953-dr-charles-houston|location=Vermont |publisher=Channel 17/Town Meeting Television |date= 2005}}
*{{cite book|last1=Isserman|first1=Maurice|author1-link=Maurice Isserman|last2=Weaver|first2=Stewart|title=Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes|date=2008|publisher=Yale University Press|location=New Haven|isbn=978-0-300-11501-7|edition=1|chapter=Chapter 5. Himalayan Hey-Day|chapter-url-access=registration|chapter-url=https://archive.org/details/fallengiantshist00isse}}
*{{cite book |last1=Kauffman |first1=Andrew J.|last2=Putnam |first2=William L. | author2link=William Lowell Putnam III|title=K2: The 1939 Tragedy |date=1992 |publisher=Mountaineers |location=Seattle, WA |isbn=978-0-89886-323-9}}
*{{cite book |last1=Mantovani |first1=Roberto |title=K2 – A Final Report: Postscript |date=2007}} Translated into English in {{cite book |last1=Marshall |first1=Robert |title=K2: Lies and Treachery |date=2009 |publisher=Carreg Press|pages=166–174 |isbn=9780953863174|ref=none}}
*{{cite book |last1=Maraini |first1=Fosco |last2=Monticone |first2=Alberto |last3=Zanzi|first3=Luigi |title=The Tre Saggi Report| year=2004}} Translated into English in {{cite book |last1=Marshall |first1=Robert |title=K2: Lies and Treachery |date=2009 |publisher=Carreg Press|chapter=Appendix Two|pages=208–232 |isbn=9780953863174|ref=none}} {{lang|it|Tre Saggi}} report
*{{cite book |last1=Maraini |first1=Fosco |last2=Monticone |first2=Alberto |last3=Zanzi|first3=Luigi |last4=CAI|title= K2 a Finished Story| year=2007}} Translated into English and summarized in {{cite book |last1=Marshall |first1=Robert |title=K2: Lies and Treachery |date=2009 |publisher=Carreg Press|chapter=Chapter 7: Recognition|pages=155–180 |isbn=9780953863174|ref=none}} [[Club Alpino Italiano]] report
*{{cite book |last1=Marshall |first1=Robert |title=K2: lies and treachery |date=2009 |publisher=Carreg Press |isbn=9780953863174}}
*{{cite book |last1=Sale |first1=Richard |title=The Challenge of K2 a History of the Savage Mountain |chapter=Chapter 4. The First Ascent: The Italians, 1954 |date=2011 |publisher=Pen & Sword |location=Barnsley |isbn=978-1-84468-702-2|type=EPUB ebook}} page numbers from Aldiko Android app showing entire book as 305 pages.
*{{cite book |last1=Viesturs |first1=Ed |author-link1=Ed Viesturs|others=with [[David Roberts (climber)|Roberts, David]]|title=K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain|date=2009 | chapter=Chapter 6. The Price of Conquest |publisher=Broadway |location=New York |isbn=978-0-7679-3261-5|type=EPUB ebook}} page numbers from Aldiko Android app showing entire book as 284 pages.
*{{cite AV media |others= James McQuillan (producer)|last1=Vogel|first1=Gregory M.|last2=Aaronson|first2=Reuben|title= Quest For K2 Savage Mountain |time=18:09|language= en |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxL_bzt7Pyo |access-date=24 October 2018|type=television production |publisher= National Geographic Creative|date=2000}}
== Italian sources and further reading ==
{{Commons category|1954 K2 expedition}}
*{{cite AV media |last1=Baldi|first1=Marcello|others=Mario Fantin (cinematographer)|title= [[Italia K2]] |medium= motion picture |language= it|url= |location= |publisher=Club Alpino Italiano |date= 1955 |ref=none}}
*{{cite book |last1=Bonatti |first1=Walter |title=Le mie montagne |trans-title=My Mountains|date=1961 |publisher=Zanichelli |language=it}} Translated into English in ''On the Heights'' {{harv|Bonatti|1962}}
*{{cite book |last1=Bonatti |first1=Walter |title=On the Heights |date=1962 |publisher=Hart-Davis |translator-last1=Edwards.|translator-first1=Lovett F.|language=en}} English translation of {{lang|it|Le mie montagne}} {{harv|Bonatti|1961}}
*{{cite book |last1=Bonatti |first1=Walter |title=Montagne di una vita |date=1995 |publisher=Baldini & Castoldi |language=it}} Translated into English in ''The Mountains of My Life'' {{harv|Bonatti|2010}}
*{{cite book |last1=Desio |first1=Ardito |title=La Conquista del K2: Seconda Cima del Mondo |trans-title=Victory over K2: Second Highest Peak in the World|date=1954 |publisher=Garzanti|language=it|location=Milan}} Translated into English in ''Victory over K2'' {{harv|Desio|1956}}
*{{cite web |last1=Horrell |first1=Mark |title=Book review: The Ghosts of K2 by Mick Conefrey |url=https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2015/book-review-the-ghosts-of-k2-by-mick-conefrey/ |website=Footsteps on the Mountain |accessdate=7 December 2018 |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20180310053845/http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2015/book-review-the-ghosts-of-k2-by-mick-conefrey/ |archivedate=10 March 2018 |date=21 October 2015 |url-status=live |ref=none }}
*{{cite book |last1=Lacedelli |first1=Lino |last2=Cenacchi |first2=Giovanni |title=K2: the price of conquest |date=2006 |publisher=Carreg |isbn=9780953863136|ref=none}}
*{{cite journal |last1=Marshall |first1=Robert |title=Re-writing the History of K2 – a story ''all'italiana'' |journal=Alpine Journal |date=2005 |pages=193–200 |url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2005_files/AJ%202005%20191-200%20Marshall%20K2.pdf|ref=none}}
{{K2nav}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:K2, 1954 Italian Karakoram expedition}}
[[Category:K2]]
[[Category:Mountaineering expeditions to the Himalayas|Karakoram expedition]]
[[Category:1954 in Italy|K2 expedition]]
[[Category:July 1954 events in Asia|Italian K2 expedition, 1954]]
[[Category:1954 in Pakistan|Italian K2 expedition, 1954]]
[[Category:Karakoram|1954 Italian Karakoram expedition to K2]]
[[Category:Italy–Pakistan relations]]
[[Category:Club Alpino Italiano]]' |
New page wikitext, after the edit (new_wikitext) | '{{Short description|First successful attempt to climb K2}}
{{Use British English|date=December 2018}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2020}}
[[File:Compagnoni and Lacedelli 1954.jpg|thumb|upright=1.2|Compagnoni (left) and Lacedelli, frostbitten on their return from the summit of K2]]
On the '''1954 Italian expedition to K2''' (led by [[Ardito Desio]]), [[Achille Compagnoni]] and [[Lino Lacedelli]] became the first people to reach the summit of [[K2]], {{convert|8611|metres}}, the second-highest mountain in the world. They reached the summit on 31 July 1954. K2 is more difficult to climb than [[Mount Everest]], {{convert|8849|metres}}, which had first been climbed by [[1953 British Mount Everest expedition|a British expedition in 1953]].
Three earlier unsuccessful American attempts on the mountain had identified a good route to use. Desio felt Italy's earlier exploration of the [[Karakoram]] region gave good reason to mount a major expedition which he did on a grand scale, following the American route up the south-east ridge. Progress towards the summit was repeatedly interrupted by storms, and one member of the team died rather unexpectedly. Desio considered abandoning the expedition so as to try again by returning later in the year, but weather conditions improved allowing them to edge closer to the top of the mountain. At last, the two lead climbers reached the summit as the sun was about to set and they had to descend in the dark. They and two colleagues went on to suffer from severe frostbite.
The fact that the summit had been reached was never doubted – Compagnoni and Lacedelli had been seen by their colleagues near the summit and they had taken photographs and even a movie film from the top – but all the same the expedition became mired in argument. After [[1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy|a prolonged controversy]], the official 1954 account of the expedition eventually became discredited, and a second official account was published in 2007 which largely confirmed the claims another member of the expedition, [[Walter Bonatti]], had been making for over fifty years.
== Background ==
=== K2 ===
[[K2]] is on the border between [[China]] and what was, in 1954, the newly independent [[Pakistan]]. At {{convert|8611|m}}, it is the highest point of the [[Karakoram]] range and the [[List of highest mountains#List|second-highest mountain]] in the world.{{sfnp|Kauffman|Putnam|1992|pp=18–22}}
The mountain had been spotted in 1856 by the [[Great Trigonometrical Survey]] to [[Kashmir]],{{refn|group=note|The tallest mountains measured were called "K1" and "K2" and the higher one turned out to be K2.{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=18}}}} and by 1861 [[Henry Godwin-Austen]] had reached the [[Baltoro Glacier]] and was able to get a clear view of K2 from the slopes of [[Masherbrum]].{{refn|group=note|Hence the earlier name of K2 was "Mount Godwin-Austen".{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=21}}}} He could see that the descending glacier eventually drained to the [[Indus River]], so the mountain was in the [[British Empire]].{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|pp=18–21}}
{{external media|title=''History of climbing K2''|headerimage=[[File:K-2 and Virgin peak.jpg|200px]]|caption=''Television programs''
|video1=[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxL_bzt7Pyo&t=1089 Quest For K2 Savage Mountain]{{sfnp|Vogel|Aaronson|2000}}<br />1954 expedition starts at 18:09 minutes
|video2=[https://www.mickconefrey.co.uk/films/the-ghosts-of-k2 Mountain Men: The Ghosts of K2]{{sfnp|Conefrey|2001}}<br />1954 expedition starts at 43:00 minutes{{refn|group=note|Video hosted on Vimeo at https://vimeo.com/54661540}}
|video3=[https://www.cctv.org/watch-tv/programs/brotherhood-rope-k2-expedition-1953-dr-charles-houston Brotherhood of The Rope]{{sfnp|Houston|2005}} <br />[[Charlie Houston]] talking about [[1953 American Karakoram expedition|1953 expedition]] (start 05:50) and narrating film (starting 15:35){{refn|group=note|Video hosted on Google at https://storage.googleapis.com/cctv-library/cctv/library/2005/01/DrHouston_01092005/DrHouston_01092005.broadband.mp4}}}}
The first serious attempt to climb the mountain was in 1902 by a party including [[Aleister Crowley]], who later became notorious as "the Wickedest Man in the World". The expedition examined ascent routes both north and south of the mountain and made best progress up the north-east ridge before they were forced to abandon their efforts.{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|pp=58–60}} Since that time, K2 has developed the reputation of being a more difficult mountain to climb than [[Mount Everest]] – every route to the summit is tough.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=xii}}{{refn|group=note|K2 may be the most challenging of all the [[eight-thousander|eight thousand meter mountains]], though [[Annapurna]] has a higher death rate for climbers than either Everest or K2.<ref>{{cite journal|last1=Day|first1=Henry|title=Annapurna Anniversaries|journal=Alpine Journal|date=2010|pages=181–189|url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf|access-date=2 February 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160601053307/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf|archive-date=1 June 2016|url-status=live}}</ref> Kauffman and Putnam liken the comparison between Everest and K2 to that between [[Mont Blanc]] and the [[Matterhorn]] in the [[Alps]].{{sfnp|Kauffman|Putnam|1992|p=18}}}} K2 is farther north than the [[Himalaya]]n mountains so the climate is colder; the Karakoram range is wider than the Himalayan so more ice and snow is trapped there.{{sfnp|Curran|1995|loc=156/3989}}
Before the successful Italian ascent, the expedition that had previously climbed highest on K2 had been the [[1939 American Karakoram expedition to K2|1939 American Karakoram expedition]] which reached {{convert|27450|ft|order=flip}}.{{sfnp|Kauffman|Putnam|1992|p=117}}
=== Previous Italian expeditions in the Baltoro Muztagh Karakoram ===
In 1890, Roberto Lerco entered the [[Baltoro Muztagh]] region of the [[Karakoram]]. He reached the foot of K2 and may even have climbed a short way up its south-east spur, but he did not leave an account of his journey.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=xvi}}{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=42}}
[[File:K2 from Godwin-Austen glacier, Vittorio Sella, 1909 (cropped).jpg|thumb|upright|K2 from [[Godwin-Austen Glacier]] (photo [[Vittorio Sella|Sella]] 1909)]]
In 1909, the [[Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi|Duke of the Abruzzi]] expedition again explored various routes before reaching about {{convert|6250|m}} on the south-east ridge before deciding the mountain was unclimbable. This route later became known as the [[Abruzzi Spur|Abruzzi Ridge]] (or Abruzzi Spur) and eventually became regarded as the standard route to the summit.{{sfnp|Kauffman|Putnam|1992|pp=18–22}}
In 1929, [[Prince Aimone, Duke of Aosta|Aimone di Savoia-Aosta]], the nephew of the Duke of the Abruzzi, led an expedition to explore the upper Baltoro Glacier, near to K2. The geologist on the party was [[Ardito Desio]], and he came to feel that there was an Italian claim for attempts on the mountain.{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|pp=198–199}} It was only in 1939 that Desio could interest Italy's governing body for mountaineering, the ''[[Club Alpino Italiano]]'' (CAI), but [[World War II]] and the [[Partition of India]] delayed things further.{{sfnp|Sale|2011|pp=102–103}} Later, in 1952, Desio travelled to Pakistan as a preliminary for leading a full expedition in 1953 only to discover that the Americans had already booked the single climbing permit for that year. He returned in 1953 with [[Riccardo Cassin]] to reconnoitre the lower slopes of K2.<ref>{{cite web |title=Biografia Desio |url=http://www.arditodesio.it/biografia.html |website=www.arditodesio.it |publisher=Ardito Desio Association |accessdate=7 December 2018 |language=it |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304084939/http://www.arditodesio.it/biografia.html |archive-date=4 March 2016 |url-status=live }}</ref>{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=314}} At that time, Cassin was the greatest Italian mountaineer there had been, and yet in Desio's report of the reconnaissance, Cassin is not mentioned except to say "I had chosen Ricardo Cassin, a climber, to whose travelling expenses the Italian Alpine Club had generously contributed".{{sfnp|Viesturs|2009|p=197}} It was only after his return to Italy that Desio heard he had been granted the permit for the 1954 summit attempt.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=188}}
== Preparation for 1954 expedition ==
In [[Rawalpindi]], at the start of his 1953 visit to Pakistan, Desio had met [[Charlie Houston]], leader of the unsuccessful [[1953 American Karakoram expedition]] who was returning from K2. On both the [[1938 American Karakoram reconnaissance expedition|1938 expedition]] and the [[1953 American Karakoram expedition|1953 expedition]], Houston had climbed the entire Abruzzi Ridge, scaling its most difficult cliffs, [[House's Chimney]], and had been able to reach about {{convert|26000|ft|order=flip}} from where a feasible route to the summit could be observed.{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|pp=207–215, 314}} Even though the American was planning another attempt on the summit for 1954, he was generous in sharing his experience and photographs with Desio, an obvious rival.{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=314}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=186}}
Desio planned a far larger expedition than the American ones – the cost estimate of 100 million [[Italian lira|lira]] (equivalent to [[United States dollar|US$]]{{inflation|US|0.16|1954|r=1}} million in {{Inflation/year|US}}) was eight times greater than Houston's and three times greater than the successful [[1953 British Mount Everest expedition|1953 British Everest expedition]].{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=189}} It was sponsored by the CAI and it became a matter of national prestige, also involving the [[Italian Olympic Committee]] and the [[National Research Council (Italy)|Italian National Research Council]].{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|pp=314–315}} The French success on [[1950 French Annapurna expedition|Annapurna in 1950]] and British success on [[1953 British Mount Everest expedition|Mount Everest in 1953]] had had immense impacts in their respective countries.{{sfnp|Viesturs|2009|p=194}} Desio wrote "the expedition will of necessity be organised along military lines"; as in the 1950 French Annapurna expedition, the Italian climbers were all required to formally pledge allegiance to their leader, Desio.{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|pp=243, 314–315}} Scientific research – geography and geology – was to be as important as reaching the top of the mountain. Indeed, it seems that Desio, professor of geology at [[University of Milan|Milan]], held climbers in rather low regard.{{refn|group=note|In 1953 Desio had travelled by air in Italy and from [[Karachi]] to [[Rawalpindi]], while Cassin had to go by train. Both men flew from Rome to Karachi, however.{{sfnp|Sale|2011|p=103}}}}{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=262}}{{sfnp|Sale|2011|pp=103–105}}
[[File:1954 Italian K2 team.jpg|thumb|Italian team members at Base Camp before the ascent{{refn|group=note|In the June group photo the team members were: standing, left to right: Achille Compagnoni, Ugo Angelino, Gino Pagani (doctor), Mario Fantin (film maker), Ardito Desio (leader, arms crossed), Erich Abram, Gino Solda, Lino Lacedelli, Walter Bonatti, Sergio Viotto, Pino Gallotti; front: Ubaldo Rey, Cirillo Floreanini, Mario Puchoz.}}]]
There were to be eleven climbers, all of them Italian, none of whom had been to Himalaya before: Enrico Abram (32 years), Ugo Angelino (32), [[Walter Bonatti]] (24), [[Achille Compagnoni]] (40), Cirillo Floreanini (30), Pino Gallotti (36), [[Lino Lacedelli]] (29), [[Mario Puchoz]] (36), Ubaldo Rey (31), [[Gino Soldà]] (47) and {{ill|Sergio Viotto|it}} (26). There were ten Pakistani [[Hunza people|Hunza]] high-altitude porters, with [[Amir Mahdi]] (41) turning out to be the most prominent.{{refn|group=note|Mahdi (also transliterated Mehdi) came from [[Hassanabad, Chorbat|Hassanabad]].{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=220}} [[Burusho people|Hunza]]s did the equivalent work of Nepali [[Sherpas]].}} Also on the team was a filmmaker, {{ill|Mario Fantin|it}}, and a team doctor, Guido Pagani. The scientific team, in addition to Desio (who was 57 years old), comprised Paolo Graziosi (ethnographer), {{ill|Antonio Marussi|it}} (geophysicist), {{ill|Bruno Zanettin|it}} (petrologist), and Francesco Lombardi (topographer). Muhammad Ata-Ullah was the Pakistani liaison officer.<ref>{{cite web |author1=Himalaya Masala |title=K2 – Abruzzi Spur – 1954 |url=http://www.himalayamasala.com/himalayan-climbs/k2-abruzzi-spur-1954 |website=Himalaya Masala |accessdate=9 December 2018 |language=en |date=28 September 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180426084305/http://www.himalayamasala.com/himalayan-climbs/k2-abruzzi-spur-1954 |archive-date=26 April 2018 |url-status=unfit }}</ref>{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=263–264}}{{sfnp|Desio|1955a|p=6}}
[[Riccardo Cassin]], the pre-eminent Italian Alpinist, had been nominated by the CAI as climbing leader but, after Desio's rigorous selection procedures, he was rejected, supposedly on medical grounds, though it was speculated that it had really been to avoid Desio being outshone.{{sfnp|Sale|2011|pp=104–105}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=189–191}}
The plan was for nearly {{convert|3|mi|order=flip|sigfig=1}} of fixed nylon ropes to be placed up the complete length of the Abruzzi Ridge and some way beyond and, where possible, loads on sledges were to be winched along these ropes. Each camp was to be fully established before the next higher camp was occupied. [[Open circuit breathing apparatus|Open-circuit oxygen systems]] were used and members were equipped with two-way radio.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=263–264, 267,268}}
The expedition left Italy by air in April 1954 and the baggage, which went by sea, arrived in Karachi on 13 April and then travelled by rail to Rawalpindi.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=263, 265}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=195}}
==Official published accounts of the climb==
{{further|1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy}}
Desio wrote the official account of the ascent in his 1954 book ''La Conquista del K2'',{{sfnp|Desio|1954}}{{refn|group=note|The official account is translated into English as ''Victory over K2''{{sfnp|Desio|1956}}}} but this account was disputed over many years by Bonatti and, eventually, Lacedelli and others. That Compagnoni and Lacedelli had reached the summit of K2 was not in dispute – at issue was the extent to which they had depended on support from other climbers high on the mountain, how they had treated Bonatti and Madhi, whether they used oxygen all the way to the top, and whether Desio's book was accurate and fair. The matter became increasingly controversial with a great deal of press criticism, often uninformed. Desio died in 2001 at the age of 104 and, eventually, in 2004 the [[Club Alpino Italiano|CAI]] appointed three experts, called "{{lang|it|I Tre Saggi}}" (the three wise men), to investigate. They produced a 39-page report in April 2004,{{sfnp|Marshall|2009|pp=143–154}}{{refn|group=note|{{lang|it|I Tre Saggi}} were [[Fosco Maraini]], {{ill|Luigi Zanzi|it}} and {{ill|Alberto Monticone|it}}.{{sfnp|Marshall|2009|pp=145–146}}}} but the CAI delayed until 2007 its publication of ''K2 – Una Storia Finita'' which included and accepted the {{lang|it|Tre Saggi}} report.{{sfnp|Maraini|Monticone|Zanzi|CAI|2007}}{{refn|group=note|An English description of ''K2 – Una Storia Finita'' including a translation of much of its contents is given in Marshall's ''K2 – a Final Report'' which also includes an extended commentary that, in short, confirms Bonatti's version of events.{{sfnp|Marshall|2009|pp=155–174}}}}
The account of the climb given here is based on recent sources which have been able to take into account the CAI's second official report, ''K2 – Una Storia Finita'' (2007). The scientific (geographical and geological) aspects of the expedition are not covered nor is the [[1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy|controversy which went on for over fifty years]] after the return to Italy.
== Approach to K2 ==
[[File:Bonatti K2 approach.jpg|thumb|Bonatti on approach march]]
After delays due to poor weather, on 27 April the expedition flew by [[Douglas DC-3|DC-3]] from Rawalpindi to [[Skardu]]. Desio took the opportunity of using the aircraft to survey the region's topography and snow conditions, which seemed similar to those in Houston's photographs of the previous year. The mountains were higher than the aircraft's [[service ceiling]] so they needed to circumnavigate K2.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=265}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=196}} The scientific party then departed on their separate itinerary. Five hundred locally appointed [[Balti people|Balti]] porters carried over {{convert|13|ST|MT|order=flip}} of equipment, including 230 oxygen cylinders, via [[Askole]] and [[Concordia (Karakoram)|Concordia]] towards Base Camp on the [[Godwin-Austen Glacier]].{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=266–267}}{{sfnp|Desio|1955a|p=5}}
[[File:Approach to K2, 1954.svg|thumb|Skardu to K2 approach route]]
Between Skardu and Askole several bridges had been built in the previous year so this part of the journey was much quicker than before. After Askole they were unable to buy food locally for the porters so they needed to hire another hundred men simply to carry flour for the main porters to make their [[chapati]]s. So as to minimise weight, Desio had provided little for the porters apart from food, a blanket each, and tarpaulins to be used as tents. They had no protective clothes. Unfortunately there was bad weather – snow as well as heavy rain whereas the previous year the weather had been fine and sunny – the porters started refusing to go on, even after being offered [[backsheesh]]. At Urdukas 120 porters turned back and the others halted – next morning some porters wandered back down and nobody would proceed. On Ata-Ullah's advice the [[Sahib#Colonial and modern use|sahibs]] went on ahead and, for a while, the porters disconsolately followed at a distance. Then there was a critical problem. The sun came out and, with it shining on the snow, the porters were struck with snow blindness. Snow goggles had been brought for them but half of them had been left behind to save weight. When eventually only one porter remained with the party they had to recruit fresh porters from back at Askole. By the time they had struggled to get Base Camp established on 28 May they had been delayed by fifteen days.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=266–267}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=198–201}}{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=315}}{{sfnp|Desio|1955a|pp=9–10}} Now a days different Tour Operators Offer their Service to reach [https://baltoroadventures.com/tour/k2-base-camp-trek/ Basecamp]
== Line of ascent of K2 ==
[[File:K2 Italian Route.jpg|thumb|Abruzzi Ridge route]]
The route to be taken was the same as for the American expeditions with camps planned for similar locations.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=314}}
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! colspan="5" | Locations of camps on mountain
|-
! rowspan="2" | Camp
! colspan="2" | Altitude<br />{{refn|group=note|Altitudes have needed to be drawn from a variety of sources – later sources have been preferred. The figures are referenced in either the "metres" or "feet" column according to the source. The unreferenced cell is a mathematical conversion of the associated figure.}}
! rowspan="2" | Established
! rowspan="2" | Location
|-
! metres !! feet
|-
| Base || {{convert|16400|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 16,400{{sfnp|Desio|1956|p=128}} || 28 May{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=315}} || [[Godwin-Austen Glacier]]{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=48}}
|-
| I || {{convert|17700|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 17,700{{sfnp|Desio|1956|p=150}} || 30 May{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=267}} || foot of [[Abruzzi Spur|Abruzzi Ridge]]{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=82}}
|-
| II || {{convert|19900|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 19,900{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=203}} || 2 June{{sfnp|Desio|1955a|p=11}} || sheltered spot on Ridge
|-
| III || {{convert|20700|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 20,700{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=154, 203}} || ||
|-
| IV || {{convert|21150|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 21,150{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=207}} || 16 June{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=267}} || below [[House's Chimney]]
|-
| V || {{convert|22000|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 22,000{{sfnp|Viesturs|2009|p=203}} || 4 July{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=268}} || right above House's Chimney, start of sharp part of Ridge{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=56}}{{sfnp|Kauffman|Putnam|1992|pp=78–79}}
|-
| VI || {{convert|23300|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 23,300{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=156}} || 7 July{{sfnp|Desio|1956|p=168}} || base of Black Tower (or Pyramid){{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=175–176}}
|-
| VII || 7,345{{sfnp|Maraini|Monticone|Zanzi|2004|p=215}} || {{convert|7345|m|disp=number}} ||26 July{{sfnp|Curran|1995|loc=1459/3989}} || above Ridge and below Shoulder at {{convert|25000|ft|order=flip}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=211}}
|-
| VIII || 7,627{{sfnp|Maraini|Monticone|Zanzi|2004|p=215}}<br />{{refn|group=note| The oxygen bottles were left somewhere between 7,375 and 7,400 m.{{sfnp|Marshall|2009|pp=169–170, 214–215}} According to Bonatti the Camp VIII was originally to be at about {{convert|25400|ft|order=flip}}.{{sfnp|Bonatti|2010|p=108}}}}|| {{convert|7627|m|disp=number}} || 28 July{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=315}} || foot of ice wall overlooking a crevasse{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=213}}
|-
| IX || 8,150{{sfnp|Maraini|Monticone|Zanzi|2004|p=213}}<br />{{refn|group=note|The original plan had been to site Camp IX at 8,000 – 8,100 m and the plan of 30 July was to site it instead at 7,900 m. Bonatti and Mahdi's bivouac was at 8,100 m.{{sfnp|Marshall|2009|pp=170, 212, 214}}}} || {{convert|8150|m|disp=number}} || 30 July{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=170–171}} || above rocky slabs near start of [[Bottleneck (K2)|Bottleneck]]{{sfnp|Maraini|Monticone|Zanzi|2004|pp=212–213}}
|-
| Summit || {{convert|28251|ft|disp=number|order=flip}} || 28,251{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=xii}} || 31 July{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|p=173}} ||
|}
The Abruzzi Ridge can be climbed by strong climbers from Base Camp up to Camp VI in a few hours of good weather but it can also be a dangerous place to be. Between Camp IV and Camp VII the ridge is sharp, steep and unrelenting with exposure and rockfall being problems on the lower section. Strong winds can be a major difficulty – K2 partly protects the major [[eight-thousander]]s to the south but is itself very exposed to storms.{{sfnp|Kauffman|Putnam|1992|pp=75–79}}
==Progress on the mountain==
===Ascending the mountain===
By 16 June Camp IV was established at the foot of House's Chimney, using the winch to haul supplies up to Camp II. In 1953 Houston's party had found the Hunzas to be better on the mountain than had been expected. However, Desio felt let down – part of the difficulty was that English was their only language in common and, apart from Desio himself, no one was fluent in English. Tragedy struck the expedition at an early stage: after Puchoz had descended to Camp II he developed problems with his throat and his condition deteriorated until, despite good medical treatment and ample medicines and oxygen, he died with symptoms of pneumonia on 21 June.{{refn|group=note|Puchoz succumbed to what is now thought to be [[pulmonary edema]].{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=315}}}} The next day everyone descended to Base Camp just as a fierce snow storm erupted. When the storm abated they were able to recover Puchoz's body to Base Camp and on 27 June they ascended to bury him beside the [[Gilkey Memorial|memorial cairn]] to [[Art Gilkey]] who had died on the 1953 American expedition.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=267–268}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=202–207}}
The expedition was by now almost a month behind schedule so Desio announced that the climb should be resumed immediately after the funeral. However, apart from Compagnoni, none of the climbers were willing to do this and Abram spoke up on their behalf. Desio had an authoritarian approach to leadership (behind his back he was called "''il Ducetto''", "little [[Mussolini]]"). He was in the habit of issuing written encouragements and orders. For example, on one occasion he pinned up a notice:
{{quote|"Remember if you succeed in scaling the peak – as I am confident you will – the entire world will hail you as champions of your race and your fame will endure throughout your lives and long after you're dead. Thus even if you never achieve anything else of note, you will be able to say that you have not lived in vain."}}
When interviewed later about it Lacedelli said "We just ignored him and got on with it".{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=207–209}}
The climbers again spread out across the various camps and Compagnoni and Rey scaled House's Chimney but then another storm confined everyone to their tents. On 5 July, Compagnoni (who Desio had nominated to lead the high-level climbing), Abram and Gallotti established Camp V and then two days later reached Camp VI with fixed ropes now running all the way up from Camp I. They used the ropes from the 1953 expedition to reach camp VII although, on descending, the ropes slipped from their anchor points causing Floreanini to fall {{convert|700|ft|order=flip|round=50}} but suffering no very serious injury.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=268}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=209}}
On 18 July Compagnoni and Rey, followed by Bonatti and Lacedelli, set ropes as high as the American Camp VIII at the base of the summit plateau. Camp VI had been at the site of the American Camp VII but they moved it higher to avoid what they considered was a dangerous location.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|p=169}} Successive severe storms made progress much slower than expected and Desio wrote to the CAI saying he was contemplating returning to Italy and staging a new assault in the autumn with a smaller team of fresh climbers, but using the existing fixed ropes. But then the weather improved.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=212–213}} On 28 July Camp VIII was established at {{convert|7627|m}} for a summit attempt by Compagnoni and Lacedelli. Next day they climbed higher but, unable to find a good location for their highest camp, Camp IX, they left their rucksacks and returned to Camp VIII, now realising they would need supplementary oxygen for the summit. The place where they had been trying to set Camp IX was beside a wall of ice at {{convert|8000|m}}, beside what later became known as the [[Bottleneck (K2)|Bottleneck]].{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=169–170}}{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=317}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=214}} Also on 29 July four climbers at Camp VII went up with two oxygen sets (each weighing {{convert|18|kg}}), a tent and extra food towards Camp VIII but Abram and Rey had to turn back and only Bonatti and Gallotti got there – they had needed to abandon the oxygen sets at about {{convert|7400|m}}. By evening Mahdi and Isakhan reached Camp VII.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=169–170}}
=== Preparing for the summit attempt===
For 30 July the four men at Camp VIII agreed that while Compagnoni and Lacedelli would climb to try to establish Camp IX, Bonatti and Gallotti would descend to fetch the oxygen just above Camp VII and then carry the heavy oxygen equipment all the way up to Camp IX, via Camp VIII. The fetching of the oxygen would be a far greater challenge than the establishment of the high camp – it would involve a descent of {{convert|600|ft|order=flip}} followed by an ascent of {{convert|1600|ft|order=flip}}. They would tell climbers at Camp VII to bring up more supplies to VIII. Meanwhile, Compagnoni and Lacedelli would establish Camp IX at a lower level of {{convert|7900|m}} to reduce the height the oxygen needed to be carried.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=216–217}} In the event they established their high camp not at the lower level, where there was deep powdery snow, but at {{convert|8150|m}} across a difficult traverse over dangerous slab rocks which took almost an hour to achieve. They had very little food and, although they had oxygen masks with them, not the actual gas cylinders.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|p=172}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=218–219}}
Bonatti, Gallotti, Abram, Mahdi and Isakhan all met and reached Camp VIII by noon on 30 July. At 15:30 Bonatti, Abram and Mahdi went on with the oxygen cylinders towards Camp IX.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=169–172}} The Hunzas had not been provided with high-altitude boots and to induce Mahdi to go on higher Bonatti had offered him a cash bonus and had also hinted that he might be allowed to go right up to the summit. They went without a tent or sleeping bags.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=217–218}} At about 16:30 they shouted and heard a reply from the summit team at Camp IX but could not locate them nor see any tracks to follow. They climbed higher but by 18:30 the sun was setting and Abram had to go down because of frostbite. They now could see tracks in the snow but still no tent and it would be dark imminently. Mahdi was starting to panic. On dangerous terrain sloping at 50° and still with the heavy oxygen sets they called again but had to come to a halt at {{convert|8100|m}}.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=169–172}}
Bonatti dug out a small step in the ice in preparation for an emergency overnight [[Bivouac shelter|bivouac]] without a tent or sleeping bags. After more shouting, at 22:00 a flashlight <!-- As a Brit writing a Briteng article I think "torch" may be obscure to some but "flashlight" always comprehensible -->shone from quite nearby and slightly higher up the mountain and they could hear Lacedelli shouting to tell them to leave the oxygen and go back down. After that the light went out and there was silence. Bonatti and Mahdi spent the rest of the night in the open until at 05:30, against Bonatti's advice, Mahdi started going down by himself in the dark to Camp VIII.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=169–172}} Bonatti waited until about 06:30 when it was getting light before he dug the oxygen sets out of the snow and descended. While he was going down he heard a shout from somewhere above but could not see anyone. Mahdi reached Camp VIII only slightly before Bonatti at about 07:30.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=169–172}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=221}}
=== Reaching the summit ===
{{multiple image
<!-- Layout parameters -->
| align = right
| direction = horizontal
| background color =
| width =
| caption_align = center
| header_background =
| header_align = center
| header =
| image1 = Compagnoni summit K2.jpg
| width1 =
| alt1 =
| thumbtime1 =
| caption1 = Achille Compagnoni
| image2 = Lacedelli summit K2 improved resolution.png
| width2 =
| alt2 =
| thumbtime2 =
| caption2 = Lino Lacedelli
| footer_background =
| footer_align = center
| footer = Summit photographs of the two climbers
}}
At about 06:30–06:45 on 31 July Compagnoni and Lacedelli left their tent and saw someone (they could not tell who) descending and were shocked to think they must have spent the night in the open.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=173–174}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=221–222}}{{refn|group=note|Desio's account says they left Camp IX at 05:00{{sfnp|Desio|1956|pp=194–196}} and this discrepancy of times led to the later trouble about whether the supplementary oxygen would have run out before reaching the summit.}} They recovered the gas cylinders between about 07:15 and 07:45, and from there set off for the summit at about 08:30, now breathing supplementary oxygen.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=173–174}} To save weight they abandoned their rucksacks and, for nourishment, only took sweets. The route through the Bottleneck was blocked with snow and they could not climb the cliffs as [[1939 American Karakoram expedition to K2|Wiessner had done in 1939]]. Eventually they found a line close to Wiessner's up though mixed ice and rock.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=222–225}} The people below at Camp VIII were briefly able to see them ascending the final slope just before Compagnoni and Lacedelli reached the summit arm in arm at about 18:00, Saturday, 31 July. Gallotti wrote in his diary:
{{Quote|On the final slope, which was incredibly steep looking, first one tiny dot, and then a second, slowly made their way up. I may see many more things in this life, but nothing will ever move me in this same way. I cried silently, the teardrops falling on my chest.}}
They took a few photos and a brief movie film as the sun was setting. Lacedelli wanted to go down as soon as possible but Compagnoni said he wanted to spend the night on the summit. Only after being threatened with Lacedelli's ice-axe did he turn to descend.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=173–174}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=226}}
=== Descending the mountain===
[[File:Italian K2 expedition,1954, version 2 (cropped).jpg|thumb|Italian team members at Base Camp after the ascent, August 1954{{refn|group=note|The team members were, from left standing: Ubaldo Rey, Ugo Angelino, Walter Bonatti, Ardito Desio (leader, arms crossed), Lino Lacedelli, Erich Abram, Gino Soldà, Achille Compagnoni, Cirillo Floreanini. From left seated: Sergio Viotto, Mario Fantin (film maker), Guido Pagani (doctor), Pino Gallotti.}}]]
In the darkness they headed down this time descending Bottleneck Couloir{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|p=228}} and after a while their oxygen ran out.{{refn|group=note|Both climbers said their oxygen ran out (at very similar times) before they reached the summit. A good deal of the [[1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy|controversy over the coming years]] was about how long the oxygen really lasted.{{sfnp|Mantovani|2007|pp=173–174}}}} They had great difficulty crossing a crevasse and descending the ice wall just above Camp VIII and both men fell but eventually their companions heard their shouts and emerged to help them back to Camp VIII just after 23:00.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=228–229}} Next day, in poor weather, they descended the fixed ropes to Camp IV by 11:00. By 2 August everyone was back at Base Camp.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|p=270}} Compagnoni, Lacedelli and Bonatti had serious frostbite to their hands but Mahdi's feet were also affected and his condition was much worse.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=229–230}}
==Return home==
On 3 August the news of the success reached Italy but, in accordance with an earlier collective agreement suggested by Floreanini, the names of the climbers who had reached the summit were kept secret. Their triumph was very big news in Italy, but internationally it made less impact than [[1953 British Mount Everest expedition|the previous year's ascent of Everest]], which had been boosted by the [[coronation of Elizabeth II]]. After some recuperation the party left base camp on 11 August{{refn|group=note|Desio had departed on 7 August to resume his geological research for the scientific aspects of the expedition.}} with Compagnoni going ahead, wanting to hasten to Italy for hospital treatment. Lacedelli, with Pagnini's medical support, preferred to take things more slowly to try to avoid unnecessary amputations of his fingers. Mahdi was much the worst affected and went to hospital in Skardu, eventually having nearly all his fingers and toes amputated.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=231–236}}{{sfnp|Viesturs|2009|p=216}}
[[File:Ardito Desio 1954.jpg|thumb|upright|left|Desio returning to Italy after the expedition]]
The press speculated, mostly correctly, on who had been in the summit party and when Compagnoni flew into [[Rome]] in early September he was treated as a hero. The main party arrived at [[Genoa]] by sea later in September and Desio flew in to Rome in October. At the height of the celebrations on 12 October Desio announced the names of those who had reached the summit. This news flopped because it had been repeatedly reported (through speculation) for months. Earlier the CAI, while still refusing to name who they were, had published a photo of Compagnoni and Lacedelli on the summit.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=236–239}}
However, before the party had left Pakistan, a scandal had been making headlines in the subcontinent's press. Mahdi had been reported as saying he had been within {{convert|100|ft|order=flip}} of the summit but his two Italian companions had not allowed him to go any higher. This received very little attention internationally but the matter was serious enough for the Italian ambassador to Karachi to hold an inquiry. He did not speak to Mahdi but interviewed the Italians involved as well as Ata-Ullah, the liaison officer, to whom Mahdi had made his complaints.{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=236–239}} The report concluded that no porters had been near the summit; Bonatti and Mahdi turned back below Camp IX leaving the oxygen respirators; and Mahdi had been wild and undisciplined trying to escape the bivouac. This satisfied the Pakistan government and even the press calmed down.{{sfnp|Bonatti|2010|loc=Editorial written by Marshall, pp. 10, 360–361}} However, it was only very many years later that Bonatti came to believe that in reality Desio regarded the report as a cover-up (one that Desio approved of) for what he believed had been Bonatti's attempt to sabotage the expedition. This was to cause [[1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy|repercussions over the next 50 years]].{{sfnp|Bonatti|2010|loc=Editorial written by Marshall, pp. 10, 360–361}}{{sfnp|Marshall|2009}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|loc=chapters 11&12, pp. 233–271}}
It was not until 1977 that the second ascent of K2 was made – once again via the Abruzzi ridge – by a well-equipped Japanese expedition, which took 59 climbers and 1,500 porters.{{sfnp|Curran|1995|loc=1813/3989}}
{{clear}}
== Notes ==
{{reflist|group=note}}
== References ==
=== Citations ===
{{reflist|25em}}
=== Works cited ===
*{{cite book |last1=Bonatti |first1=Walter |editor1-last=Marshall |editor1-first=Robert |translator1-last=Marshall |translator1-first=Robert | title=[[The Mountains of My Life]] |date=2010 |orig-year=1st pub. 2001|publisher=Penguin |location=UK |isbn=9780141192918|type=Google ebook}} English translation of {{lang|it|Montagne di una vita}} {{harv|Bonatti|1995}}
*{{cite AV media|last1=Conefrey|first1=Mick|title=Mountain Men: The Ghosts of K2|medium=television production|language=en|url=http://mickconefrey.co.uk/films/entry/the-ghosts-of-k2|location=|publisher=BBC/TLC|date=2001|time=43:00|access-date=14 February 2019|archive-date=14 February 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190214233401/http://mickconefrey.co.uk/films/entry/the-ghosts-of-k2|url-status=dead}} The video is hosted on Vimeo at [https://vimeo.com/54661540 https://vimeo.com/54661540]
*{{cite book |last1=Conefrey|first1=Mick |title=The Ghosts of K2: the Epic Saga of the First Ascent |date=2015 |publisher=Oneworld |location=London |isbn=978-1-78074-595-4}}
*{{cite book|last=Curran|first=Jim|title=K2: The Story Of The Savage Mountain|date=1995|publisher=Hodder & Stoughton|isbn=978-1-444-77835-9|chapter=Chapter 9. A Sahib is About to Climb K2|type=Kindle ebook}}
*{{cite journal |last1=Desio |first1=Ardito |title=The 1954 Italian Expedition to the Karakoram and the Conquest of K2 |journal=Alpine Journal |year=1955a |volume=LX |issue=290 |pages=3–16 |url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1955_files/AJ60%201955%203-16%20Desio%20Italian%20Karakorum%20Exped.pdf}}
*{{cite journal |last1=Desio |first1=Ardito |title=The Ascent of K2 |journal=The Geographical Journal |year=1955b |volume=121 |issue=3 |pages=261–272 |doi=10.2307/1790890 |language=en|jstor=1790890 |bibcode=1955GeogJ.121..261D }}
*{{cite book |last1=Desio |first1=Ardito |translator1-last=Moore |translator1-first=David |title=Victory over K2: Second Highest Peak in the World |url=https://archive.org/details/victoryoverk2sec00desi|year=1956 |orig-year=1st pub 1955|publisher=McGraw Hill Book Company |language=en}} English translation of {{lang|it|La Conquista del K2}} {{harv|Desio|1954}}
*{{cite AV media |last1=Houston|first1=Charles|title=Brotherhood of The Rope- K2 Expedition 1953 with Dr. Charles Houston|medium= DVD/television production |language= en|url= https://www.cctv.org/watch-tv/programs/brotherhood-rope-k2-expedition-1953-dr-charles-houston|location=Vermont |publisher=Channel 17/Town Meeting Television |date= 2005}}
*{{cite book|last1=Isserman|first1=Maurice|author1-link=Maurice Isserman|last2=Weaver|first2=Stewart|title=Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes|date=2008|publisher=Yale University Press|location=New Haven|isbn=978-0-300-11501-7|edition=1|chapter=Chapter 5. Himalayan Hey-Day|chapter-url-access=registration|chapter-url=https://archive.org/details/fallengiantshist00isse}}
*{{cite book |last1=Kauffman |first1=Andrew J.|last2=Putnam |first2=William L. | author2link=William Lowell Putnam III|title=K2: The 1939 Tragedy |date=1992 |publisher=Mountaineers |location=Seattle, WA |isbn=978-0-89886-323-9}}
*{{cite book |last1=Mantovani |first1=Roberto |title=K2 – A Final Report: Postscript |date=2007}} Translated into English in {{cite book |last1=Marshall |first1=Robert |title=K2: Lies and Treachery |date=2009 |publisher=Carreg Press|pages=166–174 |isbn=9780953863174|ref=none}}
*{{cite book |last1=Maraini |first1=Fosco |last2=Monticone |first2=Alberto |last3=Zanzi|first3=Luigi |title=The Tre Saggi Report| year=2004}} Translated into English in {{cite book |last1=Marshall |first1=Robert |title=K2: Lies and Treachery |date=2009 |publisher=Carreg Press|chapter=Appendix Two|pages=208–232 |isbn=9780953863174|ref=none}} {{lang|it|Tre Saggi}} report
*{{cite book |last1=Maraini |first1=Fosco |last2=Monticone |first2=Alberto |last3=Zanzi|first3=Luigi |last4=CAI|title= K2 a Finished Story| year=2007}} Translated into English and summarized in {{cite book |last1=Marshall |first1=Robert |title=K2: Lies and Treachery |date=2009 |publisher=Carreg Press|chapter=Chapter 7: Recognition|pages=155–180 |isbn=9780953863174|ref=none}} [[Club Alpino Italiano]] report
*{{cite book |last1=Marshall |first1=Robert |title=K2: lies and treachery |date=2009 |publisher=Carreg Press |isbn=9780953863174}}
*{{cite book |last1=Sale |first1=Richard |title=The Challenge of K2 a History of the Savage Mountain |chapter=Chapter 4. The First Ascent: The Italians, 1954 |date=2011 |publisher=Pen & Sword |location=Barnsley |isbn=978-1-84468-702-2|type=EPUB ebook}} page numbers from Aldiko Android app showing entire book as 305 pages.
*{{cite book |last1=Viesturs |first1=Ed |author-link1=Ed Viesturs|others=with [[David Roberts (climber)|Roberts, David]]|title=K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain|date=2009 | chapter=Chapter 6. The Price of Conquest |publisher=Broadway |location=New York |isbn=978-0-7679-3261-5|type=EPUB ebook}} page numbers from Aldiko Android app showing entire book as 284 pages.
*{{cite AV media |others= James McQuillan (producer)|last1=Vogel|first1=Gregory M.|last2=Aaronson|first2=Reuben|title= Quest For K2 Savage Mountain |time=18:09|language= en |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxL_bzt7Pyo |access-date=24 October 2018|type=television production |publisher= National Geographic Creative|date=2000}}
== Italian sources and further reading ==
{{Commons category|1954 K2 expedition}}
*{{cite AV media |last1=Baldi|first1=Marcello|others=Mario Fantin (cinematographer)|title= [[Italia K2]] |medium= motion picture |language= it|url= |location= |publisher=Club Alpino Italiano |date= 1955 |ref=none}}
*{{cite book |last1=Bonatti |first1=Walter |title=Le mie montagne |trans-title=My Mountains|date=1961 |publisher=Zanichelli |language=it}} Translated into English in ''On the Heights'' {{harv|Bonatti|1962}}
*{{cite book |last1=Bonatti |first1=Walter |title=On the Heights |date=1962 |publisher=Hart-Davis |translator-last1=Edwards.|translator-first1=Lovett F.|language=en}} English translation of {{lang|it|Le mie montagne}} {{harv|Bonatti|1961}}
*{{cite book |last1=Bonatti |first1=Walter |title=Montagne di una vita |date=1995 |publisher=Baldini & Castoldi |language=it}} Translated into English in ''The Mountains of My Life'' {{harv|Bonatti|2010}}
*{{cite book |last1=Desio |first1=Ardito |title=La Conquista del K2: Seconda Cima del Mondo |trans-title=Victory over K2: Second Highest Peak in the World|date=1954 |publisher=Garzanti|language=it|location=Milan}} Translated into English in ''Victory over K2'' {{harv|Desio|1956}}
*{{cite web |last1=Horrell |first1=Mark |title=Book review: The Ghosts of K2 by Mick Conefrey |url=https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2015/book-review-the-ghosts-of-k2-by-mick-conefrey/ |website=Footsteps on the Mountain |accessdate=7 December 2018 |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20180310053845/http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2015/book-review-the-ghosts-of-k2-by-mick-conefrey/ |archivedate=10 March 2018 |date=21 October 2015 |url-status=live |ref=none }}
*{{cite book |last1=Lacedelli |first1=Lino |last2=Cenacchi |first2=Giovanni |title=K2: the price of conquest |date=2006 |publisher=Carreg |isbn=9780953863136|ref=none}}
*{{cite journal |last1=Marshall |first1=Robert |title=Re-writing the History of K2 – a story ''all'italiana'' |journal=Alpine Journal |date=2005 |pages=193–200 |url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2005_files/AJ%202005%20191-200%20Marshall%20K2.pdf|ref=none}}
{{K2nav}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:K2, 1954 Italian Karakoram expedition}}
[[Category:K2]]
[[Category:Mountaineering expeditions to the Himalayas|Karakoram expedition]]
[[Category:1954 in Italy|K2 expedition]]
[[Category:July 1954 events in Asia|Italian K2 expedition, 1954]]
[[Category:1954 in Pakistan|Italian K2 expedition, 1954]]
[[Category:Karakoram|1954 Italian Karakoram expedition to K2]]
[[Category:Italy–Pakistan relations]]
[[Category:Club Alpino Italiano]]' |
Unified diff of changes made by edit (edit_diff) | '@@ -55,5 +55,5 @@
[[File:Approach to K2, 1954.svg|thumb|Skardu to K2 approach route]]
-Between Skardu and Askole several bridges had been built in the previous year so this part of the journey was much quicker than before. After Askole they were unable to buy food locally for the porters so they needed to hire another hundred men simply to carry flour for the main porters to make their [[chapati]]s. So as to minimise weight, Desio had provided little for the porters apart from food, a blanket each, and tarpaulins to be used as tents. They had no protective clothes. Unfortunately there was bad weather – snow as well as heavy rain whereas the previous year the weather had been fine and sunny – the porters started refusing to go on, even after being offered [[backsheesh]]. At Urdukas 120 porters turned back and the others halted – next morning some porters wandered back down and nobody would proceed. On Ata-Ullah's advice the [[Sahib#Colonial and modern use|sahibs]] went on ahead and, for a while, the porters disconsolately followed at a distance. Then there was a critical problem. The sun came out and, with it shining on the snow, the porters were struck with snow blindness. Snow goggles had been brought for them but half of them had been left behind to save weight. When eventually only one porter remained with the party they had to recruit fresh porters from back at Askole. By the time they had struggled to get Base Camp established on 28 May they had been delayed by fifteen days.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=266–267}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=198–201}}{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=315}}{{sfnp|Desio|1955a|pp=9–10}}
+Between Skardu and Askole several bridges had been built in the previous year so this part of the journey was much quicker than before. After Askole they were unable to buy food locally for the porters so they needed to hire another hundred men simply to carry flour for the main porters to make their [[chapati]]s. So as to minimise weight, Desio had provided little for the porters apart from food, a blanket each, and tarpaulins to be used as tents. They had no protective clothes. Unfortunately there was bad weather – snow as well as heavy rain whereas the previous year the weather had been fine and sunny – the porters started refusing to go on, even after being offered [[backsheesh]]. At Urdukas 120 porters turned back and the others halted – next morning some porters wandered back down and nobody would proceed. On Ata-Ullah's advice the [[Sahib#Colonial and modern use|sahibs]] went on ahead and, for a while, the porters disconsolately followed at a distance. Then there was a critical problem. The sun came out and, with it shining on the snow, the porters were struck with snow blindness. Snow goggles had been brought for them but half of them had been left behind to save weight. When eventually only one porter remained with the party they had to recruit fresh porters from back at Askole. By the time they had struggled to get Base Camp established on 28 May they had been delayed by fifteen days.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=266–267}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=198–201}}{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=315}}{{sfnp|Desio|1955a|pp=9–10}} Now a days different Tour Operators Offer their Service to reach [https://baltoroadventures.com/tour/k2-base-camp-trek/ Basecamp]
== Line of ascent of K2 ==
' |
New page size (new_size) | 46285 |
Old page size (old_size) | 46155 |
Size change in edit (edit_delta) | 130 |
Lines added in edit (added_lines) | [
0 => 'Between Skardu and Askole several bridges had been built in the previous year so this part of the journey was much quicker than before. After Askole they were unable to buy food locally for the porters so they needed to hire another hundred men simply to carry flour for the main porters to make their [[chapati]]s. So as to minimise weight, Desio had provided little for the porters apart from food, a blanket each, and tarpaulins to be used as tents. They had no protective clothes. Unfortunately there was bad weather – snow as well as heavy rain whereas the previous year the weather had been fine and sunny – the porters started refusing to go on, even after being offered [[backsheesh]]. At Urdukas 120 porters turned back and the others halted – next morning some porters wandered back down and nobody would proceed. On Ata-Ullah's advice the [[Sahib#Colonial and modern use|sahibs]] went on ahead and, for a while, the porters disconsolately followed at a distance. Then there was a critical problem. The sun came out and, with it shining on the snow, the porters were struck with snow blindness. Snow goggles had been brought for them but half of them had been left behind to save weight. When eventually only one porter remained with the party they had to recruit fresh porters from back at Askole. By the time they had struggled to get Base Camp established on 28 May they had been delayed by fifteen days.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=266–267}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=198–201}}{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=315}}{{sfnp|Desio|1955a|pp=9–10}} Now a days different Tour Operators Offer their Service to reach [https://baltoroadventures.com/tour/k2-base-camp-trek/ Basecamp]'
] |
Lines removed in edit (removed_lines) | [
0 => 'Between Skardu and Askole several bridges had been built in the previous year so this part of the journey was much quicker than before. After Askole they were unable to buy food locally for the porters so they needed to hire another hundred men simply to carry flour for the main porters to make their [[chapati]]s. So as to minimise weight, Desio had provided little for the porters apart from food, a blanket each, and tarpaulins to be used as tents. They had no protective clothes. Unfortunately there was bad weather – snow as well as heavy rain whereas the previous year the weather had been fine and sunny – the porters started refusing to go on, even after being offered [[backsheesh]]. At Urdukas 120 porters turned back and the others halted – next morning some porters wandered back down and nobody would proceed. On Ata-Ullah's advice the [[Sahib#Colonial and modern use|sahibs]] went on ahead and, for a while, the porters disconsolately followed at a distance. Then there was a critical problem. The sun came out and, with it shining on the snow, the porters were struck with snow blindness. Snow goggles had been brought for them but half of them had been left behind to save weight. When eventually only one porter remained with the party they had to recruit fresh porters from back at Askole. By the time they had struggled to get Base Camp established on 28 May they had been delayed by fifteen days.{{sfnp|Desio|1955b|pp=266–267}}{{sfnp|Conefrey|2015|pp=198–201}}{{sfnp|Isserman|Weaver|2008|p=315}}{{sfnp|Desio|1955a|pp=9–10}}'
] |
All external links added in the edit (added_links) | [
0 => 'https://baltoroadventures.com/tour/k2-base-camp-trek/'
] |
All external links removed in the edit (removed_links) | [] |
All external links in the new text (all_links) | [
0 => 'https://vimeo.com/54661540',
1 => 'https://storage.googleapis.com/cctv-library/cctv/library/2005/01/DrHouston_01092005/DrHouston_01092005.broadband.mp4',
2 => 'https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf',
3 => 'https://web.archive.org/web/20160601053307/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf',
4 => 'http://www.arditodesio.it/biografia.html',
5 => 'https://web.archive.org/web/20160304084939/http://www.arditodesio.it/biografia.html',
6 => 'https://web.archive.org/web/20180426084305/http://www.himalayamasala.com/himalayan-climbs/k2-abruzzi-spur-1954',
7 => 'https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxL_bzt7Pyo&t=1089',
8 => 'https://www.mickconefrey.co.uk/films/the-ghosts-of-k2',
9 => 'https://www.cctv.org/watch-tv/programs/brotherhood-rope-k2-expedition-1953-dr-charles-houston',
10 => 'https://baltoroadventures.com/tour/k2-base-camp-trek/',
11 => 'https://web.archive.org/web/20190214233401/http://mickconefrey.co.uk/films/entry/the-ghosts-of-k2',
12 => 'http://mickconefrey.co.uk/films/entry/the-ghosts-of-k2',
13 => 'https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1955_files/AJ60%201955%203-16%20Desio%20Italian%20Karakorum%20Exped.pdf',
14 => 'https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/1955GeogJ.121..261D',
15 => 'https://doi.org/10.2307%2F1790890',
16 => 'https://www.jstor.org/stable/1790890',
17 => 'https://archive.org/details/victoryoverk2sec00desi',
18 => 'https://archive.org/details/fallengiantshist00isse',
19 => 'https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxL_bzt7Pyo',
20 => 'https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2015/book-review-the-ghosts-of-k2-by-mick-conefrey/',
21 => 'https://web.archive.org/web/20180310053845/http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2015/book-review-the-ghosts-of-k2-by-mick-conefrey/',
22 => 'https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2005_files/AJ%202005%20191-200%20Marshall%20K2.pdf'
] |
Links in the page, before the edit (old_links) | [
0 => 'https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1955_files/AJ60%201955%203-16%20Desio%20Italian%20Karakorum%20Exped.pdf',
1 => 'https://archive.org/details/victoryoverk2sec00desi',
2 => 'https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2015/book-review-the-ghosts-of-k2-by-mick-conefrey/',
3 => 'https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2005_files/AJ%202005%20191-200%20Marshall%20K2.pdf',
4 => 'https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf',
5 => 'http://www.arditodesio.it/biografia.html',
6 => 'https://web.archive.org/web/20160601053307/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf',
7 => 'https://web.archive.org/web/20160304084939/http://www.arditodesio.it/biografia.html',
8 => 'https://web.archive.org/web/20180426084305/http://www.himalayamasala.com/himalayan-climbs/k2-abruzzi-spur-1954',
9 => 'https://web.archive.org/web/20180310053845/http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2015/book-review-the-ghosts-of-k2-by-mick-conefrey/',
10 => 'http://mickconefrey.co.uk/films/entry/the-ghosts-of-k2',
11 => 'https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxL_bzt7Pyo',
12 => 'https://vimeo.com/54661540',
13 => 'https://www.cctv.org/watch-tv/programs/brotherhood-rope-k2-expedition-1953-dr-charles-houston',
14 => 'https://archive.org/details/fallengiantshist00isse',
15 => 'https://www.mickconefrey.co.uk/films/the-ghosts-of-k2',
16 => 'https://storage.googleapis.com/cctv-library/cctv/library/2005/01/DrHouston_01092005/DrHouston_01092005.broadband.mp4',
17 => 'https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxL_bzt7Pyo&t=1089',
18 => 'https://web.archive.org/web/20190214233401/http://mickconefrey.co.uk/films/entry/the-ghosts-of-k2',
19 => 'https://doi.org/10.2307%2F1790890',
20 => 'https://www.jstor.org/stable/1790890',
21 => 'https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/1955GeogJ.121..261D'
] |
Parsed HTML source of the new revision (new_html) | '<div class="mw-content-ltr mw-parser-output" lang="en" dir="ltr"><div class="shortdescription nomobile noexcerpt noprint searchaux" style="display:none">First successful attempt to climb K2</div>
<p class="mw-empty-elt">
</p>
<figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/File:Compagnoni_and_Lacedelli_1954.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/af/Compagnoni_and_Lacedelli_1954.jpg/260px-Compagnoni_and_Lacedelli_1954.jpg" decoding="async" width="260" height="185" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/af/Compagnoni_and_Lacedelli_1954.jpg/390px-Compagnoni_and_Lacedelli_1954.jpg 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/af/Compagnoni_and_Lacedelli_1954.jpg/520px-Compagnoni_and_Lacedelli_1954.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1332" data-file-height="948" /></a><figcaption>Compagnoni (left) and Lacedelli, frostbitten on their return from the summit of K2</figcaption></figure>
<p>On the <b>1954 Italian expedition to K2</b> (led by <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Ardito_Desio" title="Ardito Desio">Ardito Desio</a>), <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Achille_Compagnoni" title="Achille Compagnoni">Achille Compagnoni</a> and <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Lino_Lacedelli" title="Lino Lacedelli">Lino Lacedelli</a> became the first people to reach the summit of <a href="/enwiki/wiki/K2" title="K2">K2</a>, 8,611 metres (28,251 ft), the second-highest mountain in the world. They reached the summit on 31 July 1954. K2 is more difficult to climb than <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Mount_Everest" title="Mount Everest">Mount Everest</a>, 8,849 metres (29,032 ft), which had first been climbed by <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1953_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1953 British Mount Everest expedition">a British expedition in 1953</a>.
</p><p>Three earlier unsuccessful American attempts on the mountain had identified a good route to use. Desio felt Italy's earlier exploration of the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Karakoram" title="Karakoram">Karakoram</a> region gave good reason to mount a major expedition which he did on a grand scale, following the American route up the south-east ridge. Progress towards the summit was repeatedly interrupted by storms, and one member of the team died rather unexpectedly. Desio considered abandoning the expedition so as to try again by returning later in the year, but weather conditions improved allowing them to edge closer to the top of the mountain. At last, the two lead climbers reached the summit as the sun was about to set and they had to descend in the dark. They and two colleagues went on to suffer from severe frostbite.
</p><p>The fact that the summit had been reached was never doubted – Compagnoni and Lacedelli had been seen by their colleagues near the summit and they had taken photographs and even a movie film from the top – but all the same the expedition became mired in argument. After <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1954_Italian_Karakoram_expedition_controversy" title="1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy">a prolonged controversy</a>, the official 1954 account of the expedition eventually became discredited, and a second official account was published in 2007 which largely confirmed the claims another member of the expedition, <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Walter_Bonatti" title="Walter Bonatti">Walter Bonatti</a>, had been making for over fifty years.
</p>
<div id="toc" class="toc" role="navigation" aria-labelledby="mw-toc-heading"><input type="checkbox" role="button" id="toctogglecheckbox" class="toctogglecheckbox" style="display:none" /><div class="toctitle" lang="en" dir="ltr"><h2 id="mw-toc-heading">Contents</h2><span class="toctogglespan"><label class="toctogglelabel" for="toctogglecheckbox"></label></span></div>
<ul>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-1"><a href="#Background"><span class="tocnumber">1</span> <span class="toctext">Background</span></a>
<ul>
<li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-2"><a href="#K2"><span class="tocnumber">1.1</span> <span class="toctext">K2</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-3"><a href="#Previous_Italian_expeditions_in_the_Baltoro_Muztagh_Karakoram"><span class="tocnumber">1.2</span> <span class="toctext">Previous Italian expeditions in the Baltoro Muztagh Karakoram</span></a></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-4"><a href="#Preparation_for_1954_expedition"><span class="tocnumber">2</span> <span class="toctext">Preparation for 1954 expedition</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-5"><a href="#Official_published_accounts_of_the_climb"><span class="tocnumber">3</span> <span class="toctext">Official published accounts of the climb</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-6"><a href="#Approach_to_K2"><span class="tocnumber">4</span> <span class="toctext">Approach to K2</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-7"><a href="#Line_of_ascent_of_K2"><span class="tocnumber">5</span> <span class="toctext">Line of ascent of K2</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-8"><a href="#Progress_on_the_mountain"><span class="tocnumber">6</span> <span class="toctext">Progress on the mountain</span></a>
<ul>
<li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-9"><a href="#Ascending_the_mountain"><span class="tocnumber">6.1</span> <span class="toctext">Ascending the mountain</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-10"><a href="#Preparing_for_the_summit_attempt"><span class="tocnumber">6.2</span> <span class="toctext">Preparing for the summit attempt</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-11"><a href="#Reaching_the_summit"><span class="tocnumber">6.3</span> <span class="toctext">Reaching the summit</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-12"><a href="#Descending_the_mountain"><span class="tocnumber">6.4</span> <span class="toctext">Descending the mountain</span></a></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-13"><a href="#Return_home"><span class="tocnumber">7</span> <span class="toctext">Return home</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-14"><a href="#Notes"><span class="tocnumber">8</span> <span class="toctext">Notes</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-15"><a href="#References"><span class="tocnumber">9</span> <span class="toctext">References</span></a>
<ul>
<li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-16"><a href="#Citations"><span class="tocnumber">9.1</span> <span class="toctext">Citations</span></a></li>
<li class="toclevel-2 tocsection-17"><a href="#Works_cited"><span class="tocnumber">9.2</span> <span class="toctext">Works cited</span></a></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li class="toclevel-1 tocsection-18"><a href="#Italian_sources_and_further_reading"><span class="tocnumber">10</span> <span class="toctext">Italian sources and further reading</span></a></li>
</ul>
</div>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Background">Background</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=1" title="Edit section's source code: Background"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="K2">K2</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=2" title="Edit section's source code: K2"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<p><a href="/enwiki/wiki/K2" title="K2">K2</a> is on the border between <a href="/enwiki/wiki/China" title="China">China</a> and what was, in 1954, the newly independent <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Pakistan" title="Pakistan">Pakistan</a>. At 8,611 metres (28,251 ft), it is the highest point of the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Karakoram" title="Karakoram">Karakoram</a> range and the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/List_of_highest_mountains#List" class="mw-redirect" title="List of highest mountains">second-highest mountain</a> in the world.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199218–22_1-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199218–22-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
The mountain had been spotted in 1856 by the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Great_Trigonometrical_Survey" title="Great Trigonometrical Survey">Great Trigonometrical Survey</a> to <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Kashmir" title="Kashmir">Kashmir</a>,<sup id="cite_ref-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-3"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> and by 1861 <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Henry_Godwin-Austen" class="mw-redirect" title="Henry Godwin-Austen">Henry Godwin-Austen</a> had reached the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Baltoro_Glacier" title="Baltoro Glacier">Baltoro Glacier</a> and was able to get a clear view of K2 from the slopes of <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Masherbrum" title="Masherbrum">Masherbrum</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-5" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-5"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> He could see that the descending glacier eventually drained to the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Indus_River" title="Indus River">Indus River</a>, so the mountain was in the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/British_Empire" title="British Empire">British Empire</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200818–21_6-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200818–21-6"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1237879389">.mw-parser-output .infobox-subbox{padding:0;border:none;margin:-3px;width:auto;min-width:100%;font-size:100%;clear:none;float:none;background-color:transparent}.mw-parser-output .infobox-3cols-child{margin:auto}.mw-parser-output .infobox .navbar{font-size:100%}body.skin-minerva .mw-parser-output .infobox-header,body.skin-minerva .mw-parser-output .infobox-subheader,body.skin-minerva .mw-parser-output .infobox-above,body.skin-minerva .mw-parser-output .infobox-title,body.skin-minerva .mw-parser-output .infobox-image,body.skin-minerva .mw-parser-output .infobox-full-data,body.skin-minerva .mw-parser-output .infobox-below{text-align:center}@media screen{html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .infobox-full-data:not(.notheme)>div:not(.notheme)[style]{background:#1f1f23!important;color:#f8f9fa}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .infobox-full-data:not(.notheme) div:not(.notheme){background:#1f1f23!important;color:#f8f9fa}}@media(min-width:640px){body.skin--responsive .mw-parser-output .infobox-table{display:table!important}body.skin--responsive .mw-parser-output .infobox-table>caption{display:table-caption!important}body.skin--responsive .mw-parser-output .infobox-table>tbody{display:table-row-group}body.skin--responsive .mw-parser-output .infobox-table tr{display:table-row!important}body.skin--responsive .mw-parser-output .infobox-table th,body.skin--responsive .mw-parser-output .infobox-table td{padding-left:inherit;padding-right:inherit}}</style><table class="infobox" style="clear: right; float:right;margin:0 0 1.5em 1.5em"><tbody><tr><th colspan="2" class="infobox-above" style="font-size:115%"><i>History of climbing K2</i></th></tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="infobox-image"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/File:K-2_and_Virgin_peak.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e5/K-2_and_Virgin_peak.jpg/200px-K-2_and_Virgin_peak.jpg" decoding="async" width="200" height="113" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e5/K-2_and_Virgin_peak.jpg/300px-K-2_and_Virgin_peak.jpg 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e5/K-2_and_Virgin_peak.jpg/400px-K-2_and_Virgin_peak.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1328" data-file-height="747" /></a></span><div class="infobox-caption"><i>Television programs</i></div></td></tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="infobox-full-data" style="text-align: left"><span typeof="mw:File"><span><img alt="video icon" src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg/16px-Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg.png" decoding="async" width="16" height="16" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg/24px-Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg.png 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg/32px-Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="128" data-file-height="128" /></span></span> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxL_bzt7Pyo&t=1089">Quest For K2 Savage Mountain</a><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEVogelAaronson2000_7-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEVogelAaronson2000-7"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><br />1954 expedition starts at 18:09 minutes</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="infobox-full-data" style="text-align: left"><span typeof="mw:File"><span><img alt="video icon" src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg/16px-Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg.png" decoding="async" width="16" height="16" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg/24px-Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg.png 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg/32px-Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="128" data-file-height="128" /></span></span> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.mickconefrey.co.uk/films/the-ghosts-of-k2">Mountain Men: The Ghosts of K2</a><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2001_8-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2001-8"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><br />1954 expedition starts at 43:00 minutes<sup id="cite_ref-9" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-9"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 3<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td></tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="infobox-full-data" style="text-align: left"><span typeof="mw:File"><span><img alt="video icon" src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg/16px-Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg.png" decoding="async" width="16" height="16" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg/24px-Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg.png 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1b/Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg/32px-Nuvola_apps_kaboodle.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="128" data-file-height="128" /></span></span> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.cctv.org/watch-tv/programs/brotherhood-rope-k2-expedition-1953-dr-charles-houston">Brotherhood of The Rope</a><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHouston2005_10-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEHouston2005-10"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>7<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <br /><a href="/enwiki/wiki/Charlie_Houston" class="mw-redirect" title="Charlie Houston">Charlie Houston</a> talking about <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1953_American_Karakoram_expedition" title="1953 American Karakoram expedition">1953 expedition</a> (start 05:50) and narrating film (starting 15:35)<sup id="cite_ref-11" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-11"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 4<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td></tr></tbody></table>
<p>The first serious attempt to climb the mountain was in 1902 by a party including <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Aleister_Crowley" title="Aleister Crowley">Aleister Crowley</a>, who later became notorious as "the Wickedest Man in the World". The expedition examined ascent routes both north and south of the mountain and made best progress up the north-east ridge before they were forced to abandon their efforts.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200858–60_12-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200858–60-12"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>8<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Since that time, K2 has developed the reputation of being a more difficult mountain to climb than <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Mount_Everest" title="Mount Everest">Mount Everest</a> – every route to the summit is tough.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015xii_13-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015xii-13"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-16" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-16"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 5<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> K2 is farther north than the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Himalaya" class="mw-redirect" title="Himalaya">Himalayan</a> mountains so the climate is colder; the Karakoram range is wider than the Himalayan so more ice and snow is trapped there.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTECurran1995156/3989_17-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTECurran1995156/3989-17"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>12<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>Before the successful Italian ascent, the expedition that had previously climbed highest on K2 had been the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1939_American_Karakoram_expedition_to_K2" title="1939 American Karakoram expedition to K2">1939 American Karakoram expedition</a> which reached 8,370 metres (27,450 ft).<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam1992117_18-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam1992117-18"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>13<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Previous_Italian_expeditions_in_the_Baltoro_Muztagh_Karakoram">Previous Italian expeditions in the Baltoro Muztagh Karakoram</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=3" title="Edit section's source code: Previous Italian expeditions in the Baltoro Muztagh Karakoram"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<p>In 1890, Roberto Lerco entered the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Baltoro_Muztagh" title="Baltoro Muztagh">Baltoro Muztagh</a> region of the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Karakoram" title="Karakoram">Karakoram</a>. He reached the foot of K2 and may even have climbed a short way up its south-east spur, but he did not leave an account of his journey.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015xvi_19-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015xvi-19"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>14<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200842_20-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200842-20"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>15<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/File:K2_from_Godwin-Austen_glacier,_Vittorio_Sella,_1909_(cropped).jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/K2_from_Godwin-Austen_glacier%2C_Vittorio_Sella%2C_1909_%28cropped%29.jpg/170px-K2_from_Godwin-Austen_glacier%2C_Vittorio_Sella%2C_1909_%28cropped%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="170" height="248" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/K2_from_Godwin-Austen_glacier%2C_Vittorio_Sella%2C_1909_%28cropped%29.jpg/255px-K2_from_Godwin-Austen_glacier%2C_Vittorio_Sella%2C_1909_%28cropped%29.jpg 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/K2_from_Godwin-Austen_glacier%2C_Vittorio_Sella%2C_1909_%28cropped%29.jpg/340px-K2_from_Godwin-Austen_glacier%2C_Vittorio_Sella%2C_1909_%28cropped%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="414" data-file-height="604" /></a><figcaption>K2 from <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Godwin-Austen_Glacier" title="Godwin-Austen Glacier">Godwin-Austen Glacier</a> (photo <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Vittorio_Sella" title="Vittorio Sella">Sella</a> 1909)</figcaption></figure>
<p>In 1909, the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Prince_Luigi_Amedeo,_Duke_of_the_Abruzzi" title="Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi">Duke of the Abruzzi</a> expedition again explored various routes before reaching about 6,250 metres (20,510 ft) on the south-east ridge before deciding the mountain was unclimbable. This route later became known as the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Abruzzi_Spur" class="mw-redirect" title="Abruzzi Spur">Abruzzi Ridge</a> (or Abruzzi Spur) and eventually became regarded as the standard route to the summit.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199218–22_1-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199218–22-1"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>1<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>In 1929, <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Prince_Aimone,_Duke_of_Aosta" title="Prince Aimone, Duke of Aosta">Aimone di Savoia-Aosta</a>, the nephew of the Duke of the Abruzzi, led an expedition to explore the upper Baltoro Glacier, near to K2. The geologist on the party was <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Ardito_Desio" title="Ardito Desio">Ardito Desio</a>, and he came to feel that there was an Italian claim for attempts on the mountain.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008198–199_21-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008198–199-21"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>16<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> It was only in 1939 that Desio could interest Italy's governing body for mountaineering, the <i><a href="/enwiki/wiki/Club_Alpino_Italiano" title="Club Alpino Italiano">Club Alpino Italiano</a></i> (CAI), but <a href="/enwiki/wiki/World_War_II" title="World War II">World War II</a> and the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Partition_of_India" title="Partition of India">Partition of India</a> delayed things further.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTESale2011102–103_22-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTESale2011102–103-22"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>17<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Later, in 1952, Desio travelled to Pakistan as a preliminary for leading a full expedition in 1953 only to discover that the Americans had already booked the single climbing permit for that year. He returned in 1953 with <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Riccardo_Cassin" title="Riccardo Cassin">Riccardo Cassin</a> to reconnoitre the lower slopes of K2.<sup id="cite_ref-23" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-23"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>18<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008314_24-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008314-24"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>19<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> At that time, Cassin was the greatest Italian mountaineer there had been, and yet in Desio's report of the reconnaissance, Cassin is not mentioned except to say "I had chosen Ricardo Cassin, a climber, to whose travelling expenses the Italian Alpine Club had generously contributed".<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009197_25-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009197-25"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>20<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> It was only after his return to Italy that Desio heard he had been granted the permit for the 1954 summit attempt.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015188_26-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015188-26"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>21<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Preparation_for_1954_expedition">Preparation for 1954 expedition</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=4" title="Edit section's source code: Preparation for 1954 expedition"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<p>In <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Rawalpindi" title="Rawalpindi">Rawalpindi</a>, at the start of his 1953 visit to Pakistan, Desio had met <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Charlie_Houston" class="mw-redirect" title="Charlie Houston">Charlie Houston</a>, leader of the unsuccessful <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1953_American_Karakoram_expedition" title="1953 American Karakoram expedition">1953 American Karakoram expedition</a> who was returning from K2. On both the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1938_American_Karakoram_reconnaissance_expedition" class="mw-redirect" title="1938 American Karakoram reconnaissance expedition">1938 expedition</a> and the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1953_American_Karakoram_expedition" title="1953 American Karakoram expedition">1953 expedition</a>, Houston had climbed the entire Abruzzi Ridge, scaling its most difficult cliffs, <a href="/enwiki/wiki/House%27s_Chimney" title="House's Chimney">House's Chimney</a>, and had been able to reach about 7,900 metres (26,000 ft) from where a feasible route to the summit could be observed.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008207–215,_314_27-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008207–215,_314-27"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>22<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Even though the American was planning another attempt on the summit for 1954, he was generous in sharing his experience and photographs with Desio, an obvious rival.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008314_24-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008314-24"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>19<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015186_28-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015186-28"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>23<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>Desio planned a far larger expedition than the American ones – the cost estimate of 100 million <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Italian_lira" title="Italian lira">lira</a> (equivalent to <a href="/enwiki/wiki/United_States_dollar" title="United States dollar">US$</a>1.8 million in 2023) was eight times greater than Houston's and three times greater than the successful <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1953_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1953 British Mount Everest expedition">1953 British Everest expedition</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015189_29-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015189-29"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>24<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> It was sponsored by the CAI and it became a matter of national prestige, also involving the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Italian_Olympic_Committee" class="mw-redirect" title="Italian Olympic Committee">Italian Olympic Committee</a> and the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/National_Research_Council_(Italy)" title="National Research Council (Italy)">Italian National Research Council</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008314–315_30-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008314–315-30"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>25<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The French success on <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1950_French_Annapurna_expedition" title="1950 French Annapurna expedition">Annapurna in 1950</a> and British success on <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1953_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1953 British Mount Everest expedition">Mount Everest in 1953</a> had had immense impacts in their respective countries.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009194_31-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009194-31"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>26<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Desio wrote "the expedition will of necessity be organised along military lines"; as in the 1950 French Annapurna expedition, the Italian climbers were all required to formally pledge allegiance to their leader, Desio.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008243,_314–315_32-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008243,_314–315-32"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>27<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Scientific research – geography and geology – was to be as important as reaching the top of the mountain. Indeed, it seems that Desio, professor of geology at <a href="/enwiki/wiki/University_of_Milan" title="University of Milan">Milan</a>, held climbers in rather low regard.<sup id="cite_ref-34" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-34"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 6<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b262_35-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b262-35"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>29<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTESale2011103–105_36-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTESale2011103–105-36"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>30<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/File:1954_Italian_K2_team.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c7/1954_Italian_K2_team.jpg/220px-1954_Italian_K2_team.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="132" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c7/1954_Italian_K2_team.jpg/330px-1954_Italian_K2_team.jpg 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c7/1954_Italian_K2_team.jpg/440px-1954_Italian_K2_team.jpg 2x" data-file-width="3232" data-file-height="1940" /></a><figcaption>Italian team members at Base Camp before the ascent<sup id="cite_ref-37" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-37"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 7<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></figcaption></figure>
<p>There were to be eleven climbers, all of them Italian, none of whom had been to Himalaya before: Enrico Abram (32 years), Ugo Angelino (32), <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Walter_Bonatti" title="Walter Bonatti">Walter Bonatti</a> (24), <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Achille_Compagnoni" title="Achille Compagnoni">Achille Compagnoni</a> (40), Cirillo Floreanini (30), Pino Gallotti (36), <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Lino_Lacedelli" title="Lino Lacedelli">Lino Lacedelli</a> (29), <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Mario_Puchoz" title="Mario Puchoz">Mario Puchoz</a> (36), Ubaldo Rey (31), <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Gino_Sold%C3%A0" title="Gino Soldà">Gino Soldà</a> (47) and <a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=Sergio_Viotto&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Sergio Viotto (page does not exist)">Sergio Viotto</a><span class="noprint" style="font-size:85%; font-style: normal;"> [<a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sergio_Viotto" class="extiw" title="it:Sergio Viotto">it</a>]</span> (26). There were ten Pakistani <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Hunza_people" class="mw-redirect" title="Hunza people">Hunza</a> high-altitude porters, with <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Amir_Mahdi" class="mw-redirect" title="Amir Mahdi">Amir Mahdi</a> (41) turning out to be the most prominent.<sup id="cite_ref-39" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-39"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 8<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Also on the team was a filmmaker, <a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=Mario_Fantin&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Mario Fantin (page does not exist)">Mario Fantin</a><span class="noprint" style="font-size:85%; font-style: normal;"> [<a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mario_Fantin" class="extiw" title="it:Mario Fantin">it</a>]</span>, and a team doctor, Guido Pagani. The scientific team, in addition to Desio (who was 57 years old), comprised Paolo Graziosi (ethnographer), <a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=Antonio_Marussi&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Antonio Marussi (page does not exist)">Antonio Marussi</a><span class="noprint" style="font-size:85%; font-style: normal;"> [<a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antonio_Marussi" class="extiw" title="it:Antonio Marussi">it</a>]</span> (geophysicist), <a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=Bruno_Zanettin&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Bruno Zanettin (page does not exist)">Bruno Zanettin</a><span class="noprint" style="font-size:85%; font-style: normal;"> [<a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bruno_Zanettin" class="extiw" title="it:Bruno Zanettin">it</a>]</span> (petrologist), and Francesco Lombardi (topographer). Muhammad Ata-Ullah was the Pakistani liaison officer.<sup id="cite_ref-40" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-40"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>32<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b263–264_41-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b263–264-41"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>33<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a6_42-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a6-42"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>34<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
<a href="/enwiki/wiki/Riccardo_Cassin" title="Riccardo Cassin">Riccardo Cassin</a>, the pre-eminent Italian Alpinist, had been nominated by the CAI as climbing leader but, after Desio's rigorous selection procedures, he was rejected, supposedly on medical grounds, though it was speculated that it had really been to avoid Desio being outshone.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTESale2011104–105_43-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTESale2011104–105-43"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>35<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015189–191_44-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015189–191-44"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>36<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>The plan was for nearly 5 kilometres (3 mi) of fixed nylon ropes to be placed up the complete length of the Abruzzi Ridge and some way beyond and, where possible, loads on sledges were to be winched along these ropes. Each camp was to be fully established before the next higher camp was occupied. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Open_circuit_breathing_apparatus" class="mw-redirect" title="Open circuit breathing apparatus">Open-circuit oxygen systems</a> were used and members were equipped with two-way radio.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b263–264,_267,_268_45-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b263–264,_267,_268-45"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>37<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>The expedition left Italy by air in April 1954 and the baggage, which went by sea, arrived in Karachi on 13 April and then travelled by rail to Rawalpindi.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b263,_265_46-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b263,_265-46"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>38<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015195_47-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015195-47"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>39<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Official_published_accounts_of_the_climb">Official published accounts of the climb</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=5" title="Edit section's source code: Official published accounts of the climb"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1236090951">.mw-parser-output .hatnote{font-style:italic}.mw-parser-output div.hatnote{padding-left:1.6em;margin-bottom:0.5em}.mw-parser-output .hatnote i{font-style:normal}.mw-parser-output .hatnote+link+.hatnote{margin-top:-0.5em}@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .hatnote{display:none!important}}</style><div role="note" class="hatnote navigation-not-searchable">Further information: <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1954_Italian_Karakoram_expedition_controversy" title="1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy">1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy</a></div>
<p>Desio wrote the official account of the ascent in his 1954 book <i>La Conquista del K2</i>,<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1954_48-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1954-48"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>40<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-50" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-50"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 9<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> but this account was disputed over many years by Bonatti and, eventually, Lacedelli and others. That Compagnoni and Lacedelli had reached the summit of K2 was not in dispute – at issue was the extent to which they had depended on support from other climbers high on the mountain, how they had treated Bonatti and Madhi, whether they used oxygen all the way to the top, and whether Desio's book was accurate and fair. The matter became increasingly controversial with a great deal of press criticism, often uninformed. Desio died in 2001 at the age of 104 and, eventually, in 2004 the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Club_Alpino_Italiano" title="Club Alpino Italiano">CAI</a> appointed three experts, called "<span title="Italian-language text"><i lang="it">I Tre Saggi</i></span>" (the three wise men), to investigate. They produced a 39-page report in April 2004,<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009143–154_51-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009143–154-51"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>42<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-53" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-53"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 10<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> but the CAI delayed until 2007 its publication of <i>K2 – Una Storia Finita</i> which included and accepted the <span title="Italian-language text"><i lang="it">Tre Saggi</i></span> report.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanziCAI2007_54-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanziCAI2007-54"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>44<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-56" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-56"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 11<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>The account of the climb given here is based on recent sources which have been able to take into account the CAI's second official report, <i>K2 – Una Storia Finita</i> (2007). The scientific (geographical and geological) aspects of the expedition are not covered nor is the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1954_Italian_Karakoram_expedition_controversy" title="1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy">controversy which went on for over fifty years</a> after the return to Italy.
</p>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Approach_to_K2">Approach to K2</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=6" title="Edit section's source code: Approach to K2"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/File:Bonatti_K2_approach.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/69/Bonatti_K2_approach.jpg/220px-Bonatti_K2_approach.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="157" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/69/Bonatti_K2_approach.jpg/330px-Bonatti_K2_approach.jpg 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/69/Bonatti_K2_approach.jpg/440px-Bonatti_K2_approach.jpg 2x" data-file-width="600" data-file-height="427" /></a><figcaption>Bonatti on approach march</figcaption></figure>
<p>After delays due to poor weather, on 27 April the expedition flew by <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Douglas_DC-3" title="Douglas DC-3">DC-3</a> from Rawalpindi to <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Skardu" title="Skardu">Skardu</a>. Desio took the opportunity of using the aircraft to survey the region's topography and snow conditions, which seemed similar to those in Houston's photographs of the previous year. The mountains were higher than the aircraft's <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Service_ceiling" class="mw-redirect" title="Service ceiling">service ceiling</a> so they needed to circumnavigate K2.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b265_57-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b265-57"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>46<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015196_58-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015196-58"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>47<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The scientific party then departed on their separate itinerary. Five hundred locally appointed <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Balti_people" title="Balti people">Balti</a> porters carried over 12 metric tons (13 short tons) of equipment, including 230 oxygen cylinders, via <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Askole" title="Askole">Askole</a> and <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Concordia_(Karakoram)" title="Concordia (Karakoram)">Concordia</a> towards Base Camp on the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Godwin-Austen_Glacier" title="Godwin-Austen Glacier">Godwin-Austen Glacier</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b266–267_59-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b266–267-59"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>48<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a5_60-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a5-60"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>49<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/File:Approach_to_K2,_1954.svg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2c/Approach_to_K2%2C_1954.svg/220px-Approach_to_K2%2C_1954.svg.png" decoding="async" width="220" height="127" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2c/Approach_to_K2%2C_1954.svg/330px-Approach_to_K2%2C_1954.svg.png 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2c/Approach_to_K2%2C_1954.svg/440px-Approach_to_K2%2C_1954.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="514" data-file-height="297" /></a><figcaption>Skardu to K2 approach route</figcaption></figure>
<p>Between Skardu and Askole several bridges had been built in the previous year so this part of the journey was much quicker than before. After Askole they were unable to buy food locally for the porters so they needed to hire another hundred men simply to carry flour for the main porters to make their <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Chapati" title="Chapati">chapatis</a>. So as to minimise weight, Desio had provided little for the porters apart from food, a blanket each, and tarpaulins to be used as tents. They had no protective clothes. Unfortunately there was bad weather – snow as well as heavy rain whereas the previous year the weather had been fine and sunny – the porters started refusing to go on, even after being offered <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Backsheesh" class="mw-redirect" title="Backsheesh">backsheesh</a>. At Urdukas 120 porters turned back and the others halted – next morning some porters wandered back down and nobody would proceed. On Ata-Ullah's advice the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Sahib#Colonial_and_modern_use" title="Sahib">sahibs</a> went on ahead and, for a while, the porters disconsolately followed at a distance. Then there was a critical problem. The sun came out and, with it shining on the snow, the porters were struck with snow blindness. Snow goggles had been brought for them but half of them had been left behind to save weight. When eventually only one porter remained with the party they had to recruit fresh porters from back at Askole. By the time they had struggled to get Base Camp established on 28 May they had been delayed by fifteen days.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b266–267_59-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b266–267-59"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>48<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015198–201_61-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015198–201-61"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>50<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315_62-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315-62"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>51<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a9–10_63-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a9–10-63"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>52<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Now a days different Tour Operators Offer their Service to reach <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://baltoroadventures.com/tour/k2-base-camp-trek/">Basecamp</a>
</p>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Line_of_ascent_of_K2">Line of ascent of K2</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=7" title="Edit section's source code: Line of ascent of K2"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/File:K2_Italian_Route.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/df/K2_Italian_Route.jpg/220px-K2_Italian_Route.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="183" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/df/K2_Italian_Route.jpg/330px-K2_Italian_Route.jpg 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/df/K2_Italian_Route.jpg/440px-K2_Italian_Route.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1200" data-file-height="1000" /></a><figcaption>Abruzzi Ridge route</figcaption></figure>
<p>The route to be taken was the same as for the American expeditions with camps planned for similar locations.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015314_64-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015314-64"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>53<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<table class="wikitable">
<tbody><tr>
<th colspan="5">Locations of camps on mountain
</th></tr>
<tr>
<th rowspan="2">Camp
</th>
<th colspan="2">Altitude<br /><sup id="cite_ref-65" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-65"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 12<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</th>
<th rowspan="2">Established
</th>
<th rowspan="2">Location
</th></tr>
<tr>
<th>metres</th>
<th>feet
</th></tr>
<tr>
<td>Base</td>
<td>5,000</td>
<td>16,400<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1956128_66-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1956128-66"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>54<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>28 May<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315_62-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315-62"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>51<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td><a href="/enwiki/wiki/Godwin-Austen_Glacier" title="Godwin-Austen Glacier">Godwin-Austen Glacier</a><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey201548_67-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey201548-67"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>55<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>I</td>
<td>5,400</td>
<td>17,700<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1956150_68-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1956150-68"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>56<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>30 May<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b267_69-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b267-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>57<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>foot of <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Abruzzi_Spur" class="mw-redirect" title="Abruzzi Spur">Abruzzi Ridge</a><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey201582_70-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey201582-70"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>58<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>II</td>
<td>6,100</td>
<td>19,900<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015203_71-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015203-71"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>59<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>2 June<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a11_72-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a11-72"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>60<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>sheltered spot on Ridge
</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>III</td>
<td>6,300</td>
<td>20,700<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015154,_203_73-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015154,_203-73"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>61<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td></td>
<td>
</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>IV</td>
<td>6,450</td>
<td>21,150<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015207_74-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015207-74"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>62<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>16 June<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b267_69-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b267-69"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>57<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>below <a href="/enwiki/wiki/House%27s_Chimney" title="House's Chimney">House's Chimney</a>
</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>V</td>
<td>6,700</td>
<td>22,000<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009203_75-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009203-75"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>63<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>4 July<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b268_76-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b268-76"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>64<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>right above House's Chimney, start of sharp part of Ridge<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey201556_77-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey201556-77"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>65<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199278–79_78-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199278–79-78"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>66<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>VI</td>
<td>7,100</td>
<td>23,300<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015156_79-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015156-79"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>67<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>7 July<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1956168_80-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1956168-80"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>68<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>base of Black Tower (or Pyramid)<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015175–176_81-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015175–176-81"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>69<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>VII</td>
<td>7,345<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004215_82-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004215-82"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>70<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>24,098</td>
<td>26 July<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTECurran19951459/3989_83-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTECurran19951459/3989-83"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>71<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>above Ridge and below Shoulder at 7,600 metres (25,000 ft)<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015211_84-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015211-84"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>72<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>VIII</td>
<td>7,627<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004215_82-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004215-82"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>70<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><br /><sup id="cite_ref-87" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-87"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 13<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>25,023</td>
<td>28 July<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315_62-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315-62"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>51<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>foot of ice wall overlooking a crevasse<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015213_88-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015213-88"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>75<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>IX</td>
<td>8,150<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004213_89-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004213-89"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>76<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><br /><sup id="cite_ref-91" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-91"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 14<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>26,740</td>
<td>30 July<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007170–171_92-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007170–171-92"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>78<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>above rocky slabs near start of <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Bottleneck_(K2)" title="Bottleneck (K2)">Bottleneck</a><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004212–213_93-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004212–213-93"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>79<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Summit</td>
<td>8,611</td>
<td>28,251<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015xii_13-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015xii-13"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>9<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>31 July<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173_94-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173-94"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>80<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></td>
<td>
</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p>The Abruzzi Ridge can be climbed by strong climbers from Base Camp up to Camp VI in a few hours of good weather but it can also be a dangerous place to be. Between Camp IV and Camp VII the ridge is sharp, steep and unrelenting with exposure and rockfall being problems on the lower section. Strong winds can be a major difficulty – K2 partly protects the major <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Eight-thousander" title="Eight-thousander">eight-thousanders</a> to the south but is itself very exposed to storms.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199275–79_95-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199275–79-95"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>81<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Progress_on_the_mountain">Progress on the mountain</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=8" title="Edit section's source code: Progress on the mountain"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Ascending_the_mountain">Ascending the mountain</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=9" title="Edit section's source code: Ascending the mountain"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<p>By 16 June Camp IV was established at the foot of House's Chimney, using the winch to haul supplies up to Camp II. In 1953 Houston's party had found the Hunzas to be better on the mountain than had been expected. However, Desio felt let down – part of the difficulty was that English was their only language in common and, apart from Desio himself, no one was fluent in English. Tragedy struck the expedition at an early stage: after Puchoz had descended to Camp II he developed problems with his throat and his condition deteriorated until, despite good medical treatment and ample medicines and oxygen, he died with symptoms of pneumonia on 21 June.<sup id="cite_ref-96" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-96"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 15<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The next day everyone descended to Base Camp just as a fierce snow storm erupted. When the storm abated they were able to recover Puchoz's body to Base Camp and on 27 June they ascended to bury him beside the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Gilkey_Memorial" title="Gilkey Memorial">memorial cairn</a> to <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Art_Gilkey" title="Art Gilkey">Art Gilkey</a> who had died on the 1953 American expedition.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b267–268_97-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b267–268-97"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>82<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015202–207_98-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015202–207-98"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>83<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>The expedition was by now almost a month behind schedule so Desio announced that the climb should be resumed immediately after the funeral. However, apart from Compagnoni, none of the climbers were willing to do this and Abram spoke up on their behalf. Desio had an authoritarian approach to leadership (behind his back he was called "<i>il Ducetto</i>", "little <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Mussolini" class="mw-redirect" title="Mussolini">Mussolini</a>"). He was in the habit of issuing written encouragements and orders. For example, on one occasion he pinned up a notice:
</p>
<style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1244412712">.mw-parser-output .templatequote{overflow:hidden;margin:1em 0;padding:0 32px}.mw-parser-output .templatequotecite{line-height:1.5em;text-align:left;margin-top:0}@media(min-width:500px){.mw-parser-output .templatequotecite{padding-left:1.6em}}</style><blockquote class="templatequote"><p>"Remember if you succeed in scaling the peak – as I am confident you will – the entire world will hail you as champions of your race and your fame will endure throughout your lives and long after you're dead. Thus even if you never achieve anything else of note, you will be able to say that you have not lived in vain."</p></blockquote>
<p>When interviewed later about it Lacedelli said "We just ignored him and got on with it".<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015207–209_99-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015207–209-99"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>84<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>The climbers again spread out across the various camps and Compagnoni and Rey scaled House's Chimney but then another storm confined everyone to their tents. On 5 July, Compagnoni (who Desio had nominated to lead the high-level climbing), Abram and Gallotti established Camp V and then two days later reached Camp VI with fixed ropes now running all the way up from Camp I. They used the ropes from the 1953 expedition to reach camp VII although, on descending, the ropes slipped from their anchor points causing Floreanini to fall 200 metres (700 ft) but suffering no very serious injury.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b268_76-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b268-76"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>64<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015209_100-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015209-100"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>85<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>On 18 July Compagnoni and Rey, followed by Bonatti and Lacedelli, set ropes as high as the American Camp VIII at the base of the summit plateau. Camp VI had been at the site of the American Camp VII but they moved it higher to avoid what they considered was a dangerous location.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169_101-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169-101"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>86<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Successive severe storms made progress much slower than expected and Desio wrote to the CAI saying he was contemplating returning to Italy and staging a new assault in the autumn with a smaller team of fresh climbers, but using the existing fixed ropes. But then the weather improved.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015212–213_102-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015212–213-102"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>87<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> On 28 July Camp VIII was established at 7,627 metres (25,023 ft) for a summit attempt by Compagnoni and Lacedelli. Next day they climbed higher but, unable to find a good location for their highest camp, Camp IX, they left their rucksacks and returned to Camp VIII, now realising they would need supplementary oxygen for the summit. The place where they had been trying to set Camp IX was beside a wall of ice at 8,000 metres (26,000 ft), beside what later became known as the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Bottleneck_(K2)" title="Bottleneck (K2)">Bottleneck</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–170_103-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–170-103"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>88<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008317_104-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008317-104"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>89<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015214_105-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015214-105"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>90<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Also on 29 July four climbers at Camp VII went up with two oxygen sets (each weighing 18 kilograms (40 lb)), a tent and extra food towards Camp VIII but Abram and Rey had to turn back and only Bonatti and Gallotti got there – they had needed to abandon the oxygen sets at about 7,400 metres (24,300 ft). By evening Mahdi and Isakhan reached Camp VII.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–170_103-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–170-103"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>88<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Preparing_for_the_summit_attempt">Preparing for the summit attempt</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=10" title="Edit section's source code: Preparing for the summit attempt"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<p>For 30 July the four men at Camp VIII agreed that while Compagnoni and Lacedelli would climb to try to establish Camp IX, Bonatti and Gallotti would descend to fetch the oxygen just above Camp VII and then carry the heavy oxygen equipment all the way up to Camp IX, via Camp VIII. The fetching of the oxygen would be a far greater challenge than the establishment of the high camp – it would involve a descent of 180 metres (600 ft) followed by an ascent of 490 metres (1,600 ft). They would tell climbers at Camp VII to bring up more supplies to VIII. Meanwhile, Compagnoni and Lacedelli would establish Camp IX at a lower level of 7,900 metres (25,900 ft) to reduce the height the oxygen needed to be carried.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015216–217_106-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015216–217-106"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>91<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> In the event they established their high camp not at the lower level, where there was deep powdery snow, but at 8,150 metres (26,740 ft) across a difficult traverse over dangerous slab rocks which took almost an hour to achieve. They had very little food and, although they had oxygen masks with them, not the actual gas cylinders.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007172_107-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007172-107"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>92<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015218–219_108-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015218–219-108"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>93<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>Bonatti, Gallotti, Abram, Mahdi and Isakhan all met and reached Camp VIII by noon on 30 July. At 15:30 Bonatti, Abram and Mahdi went on with the oxygen cylinders towards Camp IX.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172_109-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172-109"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>94<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The Hunzas had not been provided with high-altitude boots and to induce Mahdi to go on higher Bonatti had offered him a cash bonus and had also hinted that he might be allowed to go right up to the summit. They went without a tent or sleeping bags.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015217–218_110-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015217–218-110"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>95<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> At about 16:30 they shouted and heard a reply from the summit team at Camp IX but could not locate them nor see any tracks to follow. They climbed higher but by 18:30 the sun was setting and Abram had to go down because of frostbite. They now could see tracks in the snow but still no tent and it would be dark imminently. Mahdi was starting to panic. On dangerous terrain sloping at 50° and still with the heavy oxygen sets they called again but had to come to a halt at 8,100 metres (26,600 ft).<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172_109-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172-109"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>94<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>Bonatti dug out a small step in the ice in preparation for an emergency overnight <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Bivouac_shelter" title="Bivouac shelter">bivouac</a> without a tent or sleeping bags. After more shouting, at 22:00 a flashlight shone from quite nearby and slightly higher up the mountain and they could hear Lacedelli shouting to tell them to leave the oxygen and go back down. After that the light went out and there was silence. Bonatti and Mahdi spent the rest of the night in the open until at 05:30, against Bonatti's advice, Mahdi started going down by himself in the dark to Camp VIII.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172_109-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172-109"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>94<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Bonatti waited until about 06:30 when it was getting light before he dug the oxygen sets out of the snow and descended. While he was going down he heard a shout from somewhere above but could not see anyone. Mahdi reached Camp VIII only slightly before Bonatti at about 07:30.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172_109-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172-109"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>94<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015221_111-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015221-111"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>96<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Reaching_the_summit">Reaching the summit</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=11" title="Edit section's source code: Reaching the summit"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1237032888/mw-parser-output/.tmulti">.mw-parser-output .tmulti .multiimageinner{display:flex;flex-direction:column}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .trow{display:flex;flex-direction:row;clear:left;flex-wrap:wrap;width:100%;box-sizing:border-box}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .tsingle{margin:1px;float:left}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .theader{clear:both;font-weight:bold;text-align:center;align-self:center;background-color:transparent;width:100%}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .thumbcaption{background-color:transparent}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .text-align-left{text-align:left}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .text-align-right{text-align:right}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .text-align-center{text-align:center}@media all and (max-width:720px){.mw-parser-output .tmulti .thumbinner{width:100%!important;box-sizing:border-box;max-width:none!important;align-items:center}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .trow{justify-content:center}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .tsingle{float:none!important;max-width:100%!important;box-sizing:border-box;text-align:center}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .tsingle .thumbcaption{text-align:left}.mw-parser-output .tmulti .trow>.thumbcaption{text-align:center}}@media screen{html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .tmulti .multiimageinner img{background-color:white}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .tmulti .multiimageinner img{background-color:white}}</style><div class="thumb tmulti tright"><div class="thumbinner multiimageinner" style="width:408px;max-width:408px"><div class="trow"><div class="tsingle" style="width:202px;max-width:202px"><div class="thumbimage"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/File:Compagnoni_summit_K2.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6e/Compagnoni_summit_K2.jpg/200px-Compagnoni_summit_K2.jpg" decoding="async" width="200" height="273" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6e/Compagnoni_summit_K2.jpg/300px-Compagnoni_summit_K2.jpg 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/6/6e/Compagnoni_summit_K2.jpg 2x" data-file-width="339" data-file-height="462" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption text-align-center">Achille Compagnoni</div></div><div class="tsingle" style="width:202px;max-width:202px"><div class="thumbimage"><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/File:Lacedelli_summit_K2_improved_resolution.png" class="mw-file-description"><img alt="" src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/19/Lacedelli_summit_K2_improved_resolution.png/200px-Lacedelli_summit_K2_improved_resolution.png" decoding="async" width="200" height="269" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/19/Lacedelli_summit_K2_improved_resolution.png/300px-Lacedelli_summit_K2_improved_resolution.png 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/1/19/Lacedelli_summit_K2_improved_resolution.png 2x" data-file-width="314" data-file-height="423" /></a></span></div><div class="thumbcaption text-align-center">Lino Lacedelli</div></div></div><div class="trow" style="display:flow-root"><div class="thumbcaption" style="text-align:center">Summit photographs of the two climbers</div></div></div></div>
<p>At about 06:30–06:45 on 31 July Compagnoni and Lacedelli left their tent and saw someone (they could not tell who) descending and were shocked to think they must have spent the night in the open.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174_112-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174-112"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>97<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015221–222_113-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015221–222-113"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>98<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-115" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-115"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 16<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> They recovered the gas cylinders between about 07:15 and 07:45, and from there set off for the summit at about 08:30, now breathing supplementary oxygen.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174_112-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174-112"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>97<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> To save weight they abandoned their rucksacks and, for nourishment, only took sweets. The route through the Bottleneck was blocked with snow and they could not climb the cliffs as <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1939_American_Karakoram_expedition_to_K2" title="1939 American Karakoram expedition to K2">Wiessner had done in 1939</a>. Eventually they found a line close to Wiessner's up though mixed ice and rock.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015222–225_116-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015222–225-116"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>100<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The people below at Camp VIII were briefly able to see them ascending the final slope just before Compagnoni and Lacedelli reached the summit arm in arm at about 18:00, Saturday, 31 July. Gallotti wrote in his diary:
</p>
<link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1244412712"><blockquote class="templatequote"><p>On the final slope, which was incredibly steep looking, first one tiny dot, and then a second, slowly made their way up. I may see many more things in this life, but nothing will ever move me in this same way. I cried silently, the teardrops falling on my chest.</p></blockquote>
<p>They took a few photos and a brief movie film as the sun was setting. Lacedelli wanted to go down as soon as possible but Compagnoni said he wanted to spend the night on the summit. Only after being threatened with Lacedelli's ice-axe did he turn to descend.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174_112-2" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174-112"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>97<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015226_117-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015226-117"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>101<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Descending_the_mountain">Descending the mountain</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=12" title="Edit section's source code: Descending the mountain"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<figure class="mw-default-size" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/File:Italian_K2_expedition,1954,_version_2_(cropped).jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/43/Italian_K2_expedition%2C1954%2C_version_2_%28cropped%29.jpg/220px-Italian_K2_expedition%2C1954%2C_version_2_%28cropped%29.jpg" decoding="async" width="220" height="157" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/43/Italian_K2_expedition%2C1954%2C_version_2_%28cropped%29.jpg/330px-Italian_K2_expedition%2C1954%2C_version_2_%28cropped%29.jpg 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/43/Italian_K2_expedition%2C1954%2C_version_2_%28cropped%29.jpg/440px-Italian_K2_expedition%2C1954%2C_version_2_%28cropped%29.jpg 2x" data-file-width="772" data-file-height="551" /></a><figcaption>Italian team members at Base Camp after the ascent, August 1954<sup id="cite_ref-118" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-118"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 17<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></figcaption></figure>
<p>In the darkness they headed down this time descending Bottleneck Couloir<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015228_119-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015228-119"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>102<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> and after a while their oxygen ran out.<sup id="cite_ref-120" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-120"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 18<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> They had great difficulty crossing a crevasse and descending the ice wall just above Camp VIII and both men fell but eventually their companions heard their shouts and emerged to help them back to Camp VIII just after 23:00.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015228–229_121-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015228–229-121"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>103<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Next day, in poor weather, they descended the fixed ropes to Camp IV by 11:00. By 2 August everyone was back at Base Camp.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b270_122-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b270-122"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>104<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Compagnoni, Lacedelli and Bonatti had serious frostbite to their hands but Mahdi's feet were also affected and his condition was much worse.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015229–230_123-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015229–230-123"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>105<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Return_home">Return home</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=13" title="Edit section's source code: Return home"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<p>On 3 August the news of the success reached Italy but, in accordance with an earlier collective agreement suggested by Floreanini, the names of the climbers who had reached the summit were kept secret. Their triumph was very big news in Italy, but internationally it made less impact than <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1953_British_Mount_Everest_expedition" title="1953 British Mount Everest expedition">the previous year's ascent of Everest</a>, which had been boosted by the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Coronation_of_Elizabeth_II" title="Coronation of Elizabeth II">coronation of Elizabeth II</a>. After some recuperation the party left base camp on 11 August<sup id="cite_ref-124" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-124"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>note 19<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> with Compagnoni going ahead, wanting to hasten to Italy for hospital treatment. Lacedelli, with Pagnini's medical support, preferred to take things more slowly to try to avoid unnecessary amputations of his fingers. Mahdi was much the worst affected and went to hospital in Skardu, eventually having nearly all his fingers and toes amputated.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015231–236_125-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015231–236-125"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>106<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009216_126-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009216-126"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>107<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<figure class="mw-default-size mw-halign-left" typeof="mw:File/Thumb"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/File:Ardito_Desio_1954.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f3/Ardito_Desio_1954.jpg/170px-Ardito_Desio_1954.jpg" decoding="async" width="170" height="225" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f3/Ardito_Desio_1954.jpg/255px-Ardito_Desio_1954.jpg 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f3/Ardito_Desio_1954.jpg/340px-Ardito_Desio_1954.jpg 2x" data-file-width="775" data-file-height="1024" /></a><figcaption>Desio returning to Italy after the expedition</figcaption></figure>
<p>The press speculated, mostly correctly, on who had been in the summit party and when Compagnoni flew into <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Rome" title="Rome">Rome</a> in early September he was treated as a hero. The main party arrived at <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Genoa" title="Genoa">Genoa</a> by sea later in September and Desio flew in to Rome in October. At the height of the celebrations on 12 October Desio announced the names of those who had reached the summit. This news flopped because it had been repeatedly reported (through speculation) for months. Earlier the CAI, while still refusing to name who they were, had published a photo of Compagnoni and Lacedelli on the summit.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015236–239_127-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015236–239-127"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>108<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>However, before the party had left Pakistan, a scandal had been making headlines in the subcontinent's press. Mahdi had been reported as saying he had been within 30 metres (100 ft) of the summit but his two Italian companions had not allowed him to go any higher. This received very little attention internationally but the matter was serious enough for the Italian ambassador to Karachi to hold an inquiry. He did not speak to Mahdi but interviewed the Italians involved as well as Ata-Ullah, the liaison officer, to whom Mahdi had made his complaints.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015236–239_127-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015236–239-127"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>108<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> The report concluded that no porters had been near the summit; Bonatti and Mahdi turned back below Camp IX leaving the oxygen respirators; and Mahdi had been wild and undisciplined trying to escape the bivouac. This satisfied the Pakistan government and even the press calmed down.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBonatti2010Editorial_written_by_Marshall,_pp._10,_360–361_128-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBonatti2010Editorial_written_by_Marshall,_pp._10,_360–361-128"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>109<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> However, it was only very many years later that Bonatti came to believe that in reality Desio regarded the report as a cover-up (one that Desio approved of) for what he believed had been Bonatti's attempt to sabotage the expedition. This was to cause <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1954_Italian_Karakoram_expedition_controversy" title="1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy">repercussions over the next 50 years</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBonatti2010Editorial_written_by_Marshall,_pp._10,_360–361_128-1" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBonatti2010Editorial_written_by_Marshall,_pp._10,_360–361-128"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>109<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009_129-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009-129"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>110<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015chapters_11&amp;12,_pp._233–271_130-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015chapters_11&amp;12,_pp._233–271-130"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>111<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p><p>It was not until 1977 that the second ascent of K2 was made – once again via the Abruzzi ridge – by a well-equipped Japanese expedition, which took 59 climbers and 1,500 porters.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTECurran19951813/3989_131-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTECurran19951813/3989-131"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>112<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup>
</p>
<div style="clear:both;" class=""></div>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Notes">Notes</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=14" title="Edit section's source code: Notes"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1239543626">.mw-parser-output .reflist{margin-bottom:0.5em;list-style-type:decimal}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .reflist{font-size:90%}}.mw-parser-output .reflist .references{font-size:100%;margin-bottom:0;list-style-type:inherit}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-2{column-width:30em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns-3{column-width:25em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns{margin-top:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns ol{margin-top:0}.mw-parser-output .reflist-columns li{page-break-inside:avoid;break-inside:avoid-column}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-alpha{list-style-type:upper-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-upper-roman{list-style-type:upper-roman}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-alpha{list-style-type:lower-alpha}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-greek{list-style-type:lower-greek}.mw-parser-output .reflist-lower-roman{list-style-type:lower-roman}</style><div class="reflist">
<div class="mw-references-wrap mw-references-columns"><ol class="references">
<li id="cite_note-3"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-3">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">The tallest mountains measured were called "K1" and "K2" and the higher one turned out to be K2.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200818_2-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200818-2"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>2<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-5"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-5">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Hence the earlier name of K2 was "Mount Godwin-Austen".<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200821_4-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200821-4"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>3<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-9"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-9">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Video hosted on Vimeo at <a rel="nofollow" class="external free" href="https://vimeo.com/54661540">https://vimeo.com/54661540</a></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-11"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-11">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Video hosted on Google at <a rel="nofollow" class="external free" href="https://storage.googleapis.com/cctv-library/cctv/library/2005/01/DrHouston_01092005/DrHouston_01092005.broadband.mp4">https://storage.googleapis.com/cctv-library/cctv/library/2005/01/DrHouston_01092005/DrHouston_01092005.broadband.mp4</a></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-16"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-16">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">K2 may be the most challenging of all the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Eight-thousander" title="Eight-thousander">eight thousand meter mountains</a>, though <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Annapurna" title="Annapurna">Annapurna</a> has a higher death rate for climbers than either Everest or K2.<sup id="cite_ref-14" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-14"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>10<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> Kauffman and Putnam liken the comparison between Everest and K2 to that between <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Mont_Blanc" title="Mont Blanc">Mont Blanc</a> and the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Matterhorn" title="Matterhorn">Matterhorn</a> in the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Alps" title="Alps">Alps</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199218_15-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199218-15"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>11<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-34"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-34">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">In 1953 Desio had travelled by air in Italy and from <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Karachi" title="Karachi">Karachi</a> to <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Rawalpindi" title="Rawalpindi">Rawalpindi</a>, while Cassin had to go by train. Both men flew from Rome to Karachi, however.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTESale2011103_33-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTESale2011103-33"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>28<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-37"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-37">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">In the June group photo the team members were: standing, left to right: Achille Compagnoni, Ugo Angelino, Gino Pagani (doctor), Mario Fantin (film maker), Ardito Desio (leader, arms crossed), Erich Abram, Gino Solda, Lino Lacedelli, Walter Bonatti, Sergio Viotto, Pino Gallotti; front: Ubaldo Rey, Cirillo Floreanini, Mario Puchoz.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-39"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-39">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Mahdi (also transliterated Mehdi) came from <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Hassanabad,_Chorbat" title="Hassanabad, Chorbat">Hassanabad</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015220_38-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015220-38"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>31<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Burusho_people" title="Burusho people">Hunzas</a> did the equivalent work of Nepali <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Sherpas" class="mw-redirect" title="Sherpas">Sherpas</a>.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-50"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-50">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">The official account is translated into English as <i>Victory over K2</i><sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1956_49-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1956-49"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>41<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-53"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-53">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><span title="Italian-language text"><i lang="it">I Tre Saggi</i></span> were <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Fosco_Maraini" title="Fosco Maraini">Fosco Maraini</a>, <a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=Luigi_Zanzi&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Luigi Zanzi (page does not exist)">Luigi Zanzi</a><span class="noprint" style="font-size:85%; font-style: normal;"> [<a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luigi_Zanzi" class="extiw" title="it:Luigi Zanzi">it</a>]</span> and <a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=Alberto_Monticone&action=edit&redlink=1" class="new" title="Alberto Monticone (page does not exist)">Alberto Monticone</a><span class="noprint" style="font-size:85%; font-style: normal;"> [<a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alberto_Monticone" class="extiw" title="it:Alberto Monticone">it</a>]</span>.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009145–146_52-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009145–146-52"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>43<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-56"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-56">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">An English description of <i>K2 – Una Storia Finita</i> including a translation of much of its contents is given in Marshall's <i>K2 – a Final Report</i> which also includes an extended commentary that, in short, confirms Bonatti's version of events.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009155–174_55-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009155–174-55"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>45<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-65"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-65">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Altitudes have needed to be drawn from a variety of sources – later sources have been preferred. The figures are referenced in either the "metres" or "feet" column according to the source. The unreferenced cell is a mathematical conversion of the associated figure.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-87"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-87">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"> The oxygen bottles were left somewhere between 7,375 and 7,400 m.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009169–170,_214–215_85-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009169–170,_214–215-85"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>73<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> According to Bonatti the Camp VIII was originally to be at about 7,700 metres (25,400 ft).<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBonatti2010108_86-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEBonatti2010108-86"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>74<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-91"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-91">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">The original plan had been to site Camp IX at 8,000 – 8,100 m and the plan of 30 July was to site it instead at 7,900 m. Bonatti and Mahdi's bivouac was at 8,100 m.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009170,_212,_214_90-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009170,_212,_214-90"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>77<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-96"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-96">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Puchoz succumbed to what is now thought to be <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Pulmonary_edema" title="Pulmonary edema">pulmonary edema</a>.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315_62-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315-62"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>51<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-115"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-115">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Desio's account says they left Camp IX at 05:00<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1956194–196_114-0" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1956194–196-114"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>99<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup> and this discrepancy of times led to the later trouble about whether the supplementary oxygen would have run out before reaching the summit.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-118"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-118">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">The team members were, from left standing: Ubaldo Rey, Ugo Angelino, Walter Bonatti, Ardito Desio (leader, arms crossed), Lino Lacedelli, Erich Abram, Gino Soldà, Achille Compagnoni, Cirillo Floreanini. From left seated: Sergio Viotto, Mario Fantin (film maker), Guido Pagani (doctor), Pino Gallotti.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-120"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-120">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Both climbers said their oxygen ran out (at very similar times) before they reached the summit. A good deal of the <a href="/enwiki/wiki/1954_Italian_Karakoram_expedition_controversy" title="1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy">controversy over the coming years</a> was about how long the oxygen really lasted.<sup id="cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174_112-3" class="reference"><a href="#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174-112"><span class="cite-bracket">[</span>97<span class="cite-bracket">]</span></a></sup></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-124"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-124">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text">Desio had departed on 7 August to resume his geological research for the scientific aspects of the expedition.</span>
</li>
</ol></div></div>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="References">References</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=15" title="Edit section's source code: References"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Citations">Citations</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=16" title="Edit section's source code: Citations"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1239543626"><div class="reflist reflist-columns references-column-width" style="column-width: 25em;">
<ol class="references">
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199218–22-1"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199218–22_1-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199218–22_1-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFKauffmanPutnam1992">Kauffman & Putnam (1992)</a>, pp. 18–22.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200818-2"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200818_2-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008">Isserman & Weaver (2008)</a>, p. 18.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200821-4"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200821_4-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008">Isserman & Weaver (2008)</a>, p. 21.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200818–21-6"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200818–21_6-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008">Isserman & Weaver (2008)</a>, pp. 18–21.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEVogelAaronson2000-7"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEVogelAaronson2000_7-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFVogelAaronson2000">Vogel & Aaronson (2000)</a>.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2001-8"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2001_8-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2001">Conefrey (2001)</a>.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEHouston2005-10"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHouston2005_10-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFHouston2005">Houston (2005)</a>.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200858–60-12"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200858–60_12-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008">Isserman & Weaver (2008)</a>, pp. 58–60.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015xii-13"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015xii_13-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015xii_13-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. xii.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-14"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-14">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1238218222">.mw-parser-output cite.citation{font-style:inherit;word-wrap:break-word}.mw-parser-output .citation q{quotes:"\"""\"""'""'"}.mw-parser-output .citation:target{background-color:rgba(0,127,255,0.133)}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-free.id-lock-free a{background:url("/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/6/65/Lock-green.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited.id-lock-limited a,.mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration.id-lock-registration a{background:url("/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/d/d6/Lock-gray-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription.id-lock-subscription a{background:url("/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/a/aa/Lock-red-alt-2.svg")right 0.1em center/9px no-repeat}.mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background:url("/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/4/4c/Wikisource-logo.svg")right 0.1em center/12px no-repeat}body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-free a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-limited a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-registration a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .id-lock-subscription a,body:not(.skin-timeless):not(.skin-minerva) .mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon a{background-size:contain;padding:0 1em 0 0}.mw-parser-output .cs1-code{color:inherit;background:inherit;border:none;padding:inherit}.mw-parser-output .cs1-hidden-error{display:none;color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-visible-error{color:var(--color-error,#d33)}.mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{display:none;color:#085;margin-left:0.3em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-left{padding-left:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-right{padding-right:0.2em}.mw-parser-output .citation .mw-selflink{font-weight:inherit}@media screen{.mw-parser-output .cs1-format{font-size:95%}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .cs1-maint{color:#18911f}}</style><cite id="CITEREFDay2010" class="citation journal cs1">Day, Henry (2010). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf">"Annapurna Anniversaries"</a> <span class="cs1-format">(PDF)</span>. <i>Alpine Journal</i>: 181–189. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20160601053307/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf">Archived</a> <span class="cs1-format">(PDF)</span> from the original on 1 June 2016<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">2 February</span> 2019</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Alpine+Journal&rft.atitle=Annapurna+Anniversaries&rft.pages=181-189&rft.date=2010&rft.aulast=Day&rft.aufirst=Henry&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.alpinejournal.org.uk%2FContents%2FContents_2010-11_files%2FAJ%25202010-11%2520179-189%2520Day%2520Annapurna.pdf&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199218-15"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199218_15-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFKauffmanPutnam1992">Kauffman & Putnam (1992)</a>, p. 18.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTECurran1995156/3989-17"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTECurran1995156/3989_17-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFCurran1995">Curran (1995)</a>, 156/3989.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam1992117-18"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam1992117_18-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFKauffmanPutnam1992">Kauffman & Putnam (1992)</a>, p. 117.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015xvi-19"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015xvi_19-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. xvi.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200842-20"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver200842_20-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008">Isserman & Weaver (2008)</a>, p. 42.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008198–199-21"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008198–199_21-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008">Isserman & Weaver (2008)</a>, pp. 198–199.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTESale2011102–103-22"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTESale2011102–103_22-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFSale2011">Sale (2011)</a>, pp. 102–103.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-23"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-23">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1 cs1-prop-foreign-lang-source"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://www.arditodesio.it/biografia.html">"Biografia Desio"</a>. <i>www.arditodesio.it</i> (in Italian). Ardito Desio Association. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20160304084939/http://www.arditodesio.it/biografia.html">Archived</a> from the original on 4 March 2016<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">7 December</span> 2018</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=www.arditodesio.it&rft.atitle=Biografia+Desio&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.arditodesio.it%2Fbiografia.html&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008314-24"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008314_24-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008314_24-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008">Isserman & Weaver (2008)</a>, p. 314.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009197-25"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009197_25-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFViesturs2009">Viesturs (2009)</a>, p. 197.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015188-26"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015188_26-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 188.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008207–215,_314-27"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008207–215,_314_27-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008">Isserman & Weaver (2008)</a>, pp. 207–215, 314.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015186-28"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015186_28-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 186.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015189-29"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015189_29-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 189.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008314–315-30"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008314–315_30-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008">Isserman & Weaver (2008)</a>, pp. 314–315.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009194-31"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009194_31-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFViesturs2009">Viesturs (2009)</a>, p. 194.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008243,_314–315-32"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008243,_314–315_32-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008">Isserman & Weaver (2008)</a>, pp. 243, 314–315.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTESale2011103-33"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTESale2011103_33-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFSale2011">Sale (2011)</a>, p. 103.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b262-35"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b262_35-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955b">Desio (1955b)</a>, p. 262.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTESale2011103–105-36"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTESale2011103–105_36-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFSale2011">Sale (2011)</a>, pp. 103–105.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015220-38"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015220_38-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 220.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-40"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-40">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFHimalaya_Masala2013" class="citation web cs1">Himalaya Masala (28 September 2013). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20180426084305/http://www.himalayamasala.com/himalayan-climbs/k2-abruzzi-spur-1954">"K2 – Abruzzi Spur – 1954"</a>. <i>Himalaya Masala</i>. Archived from the original on 26 April 2018<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">9 December</span> 2018</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=Himalaya+Masala&rft.atitle=K2+%E2%80%93+Abruzzi+Spur+%E2%80%93+1954&rft.date=2013-09-28&rft.au=Himalaya+Masala&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.himalayamasala.com%2Fhimalayan-climbs%2Fk2-abruzzi-spur-1954&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span><span class="cs1-maint citation-comment"><code class="cs1-code">{{<a href="/enwiki/wiki/Template:Cite_web" title="Template:Cite web">cite web</a>}}</code>: CS1 maint: unfit URL (<a href="/enwiki/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_unfit_URL" title="Category:CS1 maint: unfit URL">link</a>)</span></span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b263–264-41"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b263–264_41-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955b">Desio (1955b)</a>, pp. 263–264.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a6-42"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a6_42-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955a">Desio (1955a)</a>, p. 6.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTESale2011104–105-43"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTESale2011104–105_43-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFSale2011">Sale (2011)</a>, pp. 104–105.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015189–191-44"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015189–191_44-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 189–191.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b263–264,_267,_268-45"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b263–264,_267,_268_45-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955b">Desio (1955b)</a>, pp. 263–264, 267, 268.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b263,_265-46"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b263,_265_46-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955b">Desio (1955b)</a>, pp. 263, 265.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015195-47"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015195_47-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 195.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1954-48"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1954_48-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1954">Desio (1954)</a>.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1956-49"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1956_49-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1956">Desio (1956)</a>.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009143–154-51"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009143–154_51-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMarshall2009">Marshall (2009)</a>, pp. 143–154.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009145–146-52"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009145–146_52-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMarshall2009">Marshall (2009)</a>, pp. 145–146.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanziCAI2007-54"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanziCAI2007_54-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMarainiMonticoneZanziCAI2007">Maraini et al. (2007)</a>.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009155–174-55"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009155–174_55-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMarshall2009">Marshall (2009)</a>, pp. 155–174.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b265-57"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b265_57-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955b">Desio (1955b)</a>, p. 265.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015196-58"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015196_58-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 196.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b266–267-59"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b266–267_59-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b266–267_59-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955b">Desio (1955b)</a>, pp. 266–267.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a5-60"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a5_60-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955a">Desio (1955a)</a>, p. 5.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015198–201-61"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015198–201_61-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 198–201.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315-62"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315_62-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315_62-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315_62-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008315_62-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008">Isserman & Weaver (2008)</a>, p. 315.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a9–10-63"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a9–10_63-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955a">Desio (1955a)</a>, pp. 9–10.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015314-64"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015314_64-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 314.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1956128-66"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1956128_66-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1956">Desio (1956)</a>, p. 128.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey201548-67"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey201548_67-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 48.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1956150-68"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1956150_68-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1956">Desio (1956)</a>, p. 150.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b267-69"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b267_69-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b267_69-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955b">Desio (1955b)</a>, p. 267.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey201582-70"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey201582_70-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 82.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015203-71"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015203_71-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 203.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a11-72"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955a11_72-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955a">Desio (1955a)</a>, p. 11.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015154,_203-73"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015154,_203_73-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 154, 203.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015207-74"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015207_74-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 207.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009203-75"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009203_75-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFViesturs2009">Viesturs (2009)</a>, p. 203.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b268-76"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b268_76-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b268_76-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955b">Desio (1955b)</a>, p. 268.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey201556-77"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey201556_77-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 56.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199278–79-78"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199278–79_78-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFKauffmanPutnam1992">Kauffman & Putnam (1992)</a>, pp. 78–79.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015156-79"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015156_79-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 156.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1956168-80"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1956168_80-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1956">Desio (1956)</a>, p. 168.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015175–176-81"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015175–176_81-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 175–176.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004215-82"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004215_82-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004215_82-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004">Maraini, Monticone & Zanzi (2004)</a>, p. 215.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTECurran19951459/3989-83"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTECurran19951459/3989_83-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFCurran1995">Curran (1995)</a>, 1459/3989.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015211-84"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015211_84-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 211.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009169–170,_214–215-85"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009169–170,_214–215_85-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMarshall2009">Marshall (2009)</a>, pp. 169–170, 214–215.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEBonatti2010108-86"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBonatti2010108_86-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFBonatti2010">Bonatti (2010)</a>, p. 108.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015213-88"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015213_88-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 213.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004213-89"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004213_89-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004">Maraini, Monticone & Zanzi (2004)</a>, p. 213.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009170,_212,_214-90"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009170,_212,_214_90-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMarshall2009">Marshall (2009)</a>, pp. 170, 212, 214.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007170–171-92"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007170–171_92-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMantovani2007">Mantovani (2007)</a>, pp. 170–171.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004212–213-93"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004212–213_93-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004">Maraini, Monticone & Zanzi (2004)</a>, pp. 212–213.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173-94"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173_94-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMantovani2007">Mantovani (2007)</a>, p. 173.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199275–79-95"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKauffmanPutnam199275–79_95-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFKauffmanPutnam1992">Kauffman & Putnam (1992)</a>, pp. 75–79.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b267–268-97"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b267–268_97-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955b">Desio (1955b)</a>, pp. 267–268.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015202–207-98"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015202–207_98-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 202–207.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015207–209-99"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015207–209_99-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 207–209.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015209-100"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015209_100-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 209.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169-101"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169_101-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMantovani2007">Mantovani (2007)</a>, p. 169.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015212–213-102"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015212–213_102-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 212–213.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–170-103"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–170_103-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–170_103-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMantovani2007">Mantovani (2007)</a>, pp. 169–170.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008317-104"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEIssermanWeaver2008317_104-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008">Isserman & Weaver (2008)</a>, p. 317.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015214-105"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015214_105-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 214.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015216–217-106"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015216–217_106-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 216–217.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007172-107"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007172_107-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMantovani2007">Mantovani (2007)</a>, p. 172.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015218–219-108"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015218–219_108-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 218–219.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172-109"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172_109-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172_109-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172_109-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007169–172_109-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMantovani2007">Mantovani (2007)</a>, pp. 169–172.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015217–218-110"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015217–218_110-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 217–218.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015221-111"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015221_111-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 221.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174-112"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174_112-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174_112-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174_112-2"><sup><i><b>c</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMantovani2007173–174_112-3"><sup><i><b>d</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMantovani2007">Mantovani (2007)</a>, pp. 173–174.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015221–222-113"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015221–222_113-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 221–222.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1956194–196-114"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1956194–196_114-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1956">Desio (1956)</a>, pp. 194–196.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015222–225-116"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015222–225_116-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 222–225.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015226-117"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015226_117-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 226.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015228-119"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015228_119-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, p. 228.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015228–229-121"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015228–229_121-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 228–229.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b270-122"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDesio1955b270_122-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFDesio1955b">Desio (1955b)</a>, p. 270.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015229–230-123"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015229–230_123-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 229–230.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015231–236-125"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015231–236_125-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 231–236.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009216-126"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEViesturs2009216_126-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFViesturs2009">Viesturs (2009)</a>, p. 216.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015236–239-127"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015236–239_127-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015236–239_127-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, pp. 236–239.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEBonatti2010Editorial_written_by_Marshall,_pp._10,_360–361-128"><span class="mw-cite-backlink">^ <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBonatti2010Editorial_written_by_Marshall,_pp._10,_360–361_128-0"><sup><i><b>a</b></i></sup></a> <a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEBonatti2010Editorial_written_by_Marshall,_pp._10,_360–361_128-1"><sup><i><b>b</b></i></sup></a></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFBonatti2010">Bonatti (2010)</a>, Editorial written by Marshall, pp. 10, 360–361.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009-129"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMarshall2009_129-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFMarshall2009">Marshall (2009)</a>.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015chapters_11&amp;12,_pp._233–271-130"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEConefrey2015chapters_11&amp;12,_pp._233–271_130-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFConefrey2015">Conefrey (2015)</a>, chapters 11&12, pp. 233–271.</span>
</li>
<li id="cite_note-FOOTNOTECurran19951813/3989-131"><span class="mw-cite-backlink"><b><a href="#cite_ref-FOOTNOTECurran19951813/3989_131-0">^</a></b></span> <span class="reference-text"><a href="#CITEREFCurran1995">Curran (1995)</a>, 1813/3989.</span>
</li>
</ol></div>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading3"><h3 id="Works_cited">Works cited</h3><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=17" title="Edit section's source code: Works cited"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<ul><li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFBonatti2010" class="citation book cs1">Bonatti, Walter (2010) [1st pub. 2001]. Marshall, Robert (ed.). <i><a href="/enwiki/wiki/The_Mountains_of_My_Life" title="The Mountains of My Life">The Mountains of My Life</a></i> (Google ebook). Translated by Marshall, Robert. UK: Penguin. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780141192918" title="Special:BookSources/9780141192918"><bdi>9780141192918</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+Mountains+of+My+Life&rft.place=UK&rft.pub=Penguin&rft.date=2010&rft.isbn=9780141192918&rft.aulast=Bonatti&rft.aufirst=Walter&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> English translation of <span title="Italian-language text"><i lang="it">Montagne di una vita</i></span> (<a href="#CITEREFBonatti1995">Bonatti 1995</a>)</li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFConefrey2001" class="citation audio-visual cs1">Conefrey, Mick (2001). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20190214233401/http://mickconefrey.co.uk/films/entry/the-ghosts-of-k2"><i>Mountain Men: The Ghosts of K2</i></a> (television production). BBC/TLC. Event occurs at 43:00. Archived from <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://mickconefrey.co.uk/films/entry/the-ghosts-of-k2">the original</a> on 14 February 2019<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">14 February</span> 2019</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=Mountain+Men%3A+The+Ghosts+of+K2&rft.pub=BBC%2FTLC&rft.date=2001&rft.aulast=Conefrey&rft.aufirst=Mick&rft_id=http%3A%2F%2Fmickconefrey.co.uk%2Ffilms%2Fentry%2Fthe-ghosts-of-k2&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> The video is hosted on Vimeo at <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://vimeo.com/54661540">https://vimeo.com/54661540</a></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFConefrey2015" class="citation book cs1">Conefrey, Mick (2015). <i>The Ghosts of K2: the Epic Saga of the First Ascent</i>. London: Oneworld. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-78074-595-4" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-78074-595-4"><bdi>978-1-78074-595-4</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+Ghosts+of+K2%3A+the+Epic+Saga+of+the+First+Ascent&rft.place=London&rft.pub=Oneworld&rft.date=2015&rft.isbn=978-1-78074-595-4&rft.aulast=Conefrey&rft.aufirst=Mick&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFCurran1995" class="citation book cs1">Curran, Jim (1995). "Chapter 9. A Sahib is About to Climb K2". <i>K2: The Story Of The Savage Mountain</i> (Kindle ebook). Hodder & Stoughton. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-444-77835-9" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-444-77835-9"><bdi>978-1-444-77835-9</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=Chapter+9.+A+Sahib+is+About+to+Climb+K2&rft.btitle=K2%3A+The+Story+Of+The+Savage+Mountain&rft.pub=Hodder+%26+Stoughton&rft.date=1995&rft.isbn=978-1-444-77835-9&rft.aulast=Curran&rft.aufirst=Jim&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFDesio1955a" class="citation journal cs1">Desio, Ardito (1955a). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1955_files/AJ60%201955%203-16%20Desio%20Italian%20Karakorum%20Exped.pdf">"The 1954 Italian Expedition to the Karakoram and the Conquest of K2"</a> <span class="cs1-format">(PDF)</span>. <i>Alpine Journal</i>. <b>LX</b> (290): 3–16.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Alpine+Journal&rft.atitle=The+1954+Italian+Expedition+to+the+Karakoram+and+the+Conquest+of+K2&rft.volume=LX&rft.issue=290&rft.pages=3-16&rft.date=1955&rft.aulast=Desio&rft.aufirst=Ardito&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.alpinejournal.org.uk%2FContents%2FContents_1955_files%2FAJ60%25201955%25203-16%2520Desio%2520Italian%2520Karakorum%2520Exped.pdf&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFDesio1955b" class="citation journal cs1">Desio, Ardito (1955b). "The Ascent of K2". <i>The Geographical Journal</i>. <b>121</b> (3): 261–272. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Bibcode_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Bibcode (identifier)">Bibcode</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/1955GeogJ.121..261D">1955GeogJ.121..261D</a>. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Doi_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="Doi (identifier)">doi</a>:<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://doi.org/10.2307%2F1790890">10.2307/1790890</a>. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="JSTOR (identifier)">JSTOR</a> <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/1790890">1790890</a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=The+Geographical+Journal&rft.atitle=The+Ascent+of+K2&rft.volume=121&rft.issue=3&rft.pages=261-272&rft.date=1955&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstor.org%2Fstable%2F1790890%23id-name%3DJSTOR&rft_id=info%3Adoi%2F10.2307%2F1790890&rft_id=info%3Abibcode%2F1955GeogJ.121..261D&rft.aulast=Desio&rft.aufirst=Ardito&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFDesio1956" class="citation book cs1">Desio, Ardito (1956) [1st pub 1955]. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/victoryoverk2sec00desi"><i>Victory over K2: Second Highest Peak in the World</i></a>. Translated by Moore, David. McGraw Hill Book Company.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Victory+over+K2%3A+Second+Highest+Peak+in+the+World&rft.pub=McGraw+Hill+Book+Company&rft.date=1956&rft.aulast=Desio&rft.aufirst=Ardito&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2Fvictoryoverk2sec00desi&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> English translation of <span title="Italian-language text"><i lang="it">La Conquista del K2</i></span> (<a href="#CITEREFDesio1954">Desio 1954</a>)</li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFHouston2005" class="citation audio-visual cs1">Houston, Charles (2005). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.cctv.org/watch-tv/programs/brotherhood-rope-k2-expedition-1953-dr-charles-houston"><i>Brotherhood of The Rope- K2 Expedition 1953 with Dr. Charles Houston</i></a> (DVD/television production). Vermont: Channel 17/Town Meeting Television.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=Brotherhood+of+The+Rope-+K2+Expedition+1953+with+Dr.+Charles+Houston&rft.place=Vermont&rft.pub=Channel+17%2FTown+Meeting+Television&rft.date=2005&rft.aulast=Houston&rft.aufirst=Charles&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cctv.org%2Fwatch-tv%2Fprograms%2Fbrotherhood-rope-k2-expedition-1953-dr-charles-houston&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFIssermanWeaver2008" class="citation book cs1"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/Maurice_Isserman" title="Maurice Isserman">Isserman, Maurice</a>; Weaver, Stewart (2008). <span class="id-lock-registration" title="Free registration required"><a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://archive.org/details/fallengiantshist00isse">"Chapter 5. Himalayan Hey-Day"</a></span>. <i>Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes</i> (1 ed.). New Haven: Yale University Press. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-300-11501-7" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-300-11501-7"><bdi>978-0-300-11501-7</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=Chapter+5.+Himalayan+Hey-Day&rft.btitle=Fallen+Giants%3A+A+History+of+Himalayan+Mountaineering+from+the+Age+of+Empire+to+the+Age+of+Extremes&rft.place=New+Haven&rft.edition=1&rft.pub=Yale+University+Press&rft.date=2008&rft.isbn=978-0-300-11501-7&rft.aulast=Isserman&rft.aufirst=Maurice&rft.au=Weaver%2C+Stewart&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2Ffallengiantshist00isse&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFKauffmanPutnam1992" class="citation book cs1">Kauffman, Andrew J.; <a href="/enwiki/wiki/William_Lowell_Putnam_III" title="William Lowell Putnam III">Putnam, William L.</a> (1992). <i>K2: The 1939 Tragedy</i>. Seattle, WA: Mountaineers. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-89886-323-9" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-89886-323-9"><bdi>978-0-89886-323-9</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=K2%3A+The+1939+Tragedy&rft.place=Seattle%2C+WA&rft.pub=Mountaineers&rft.date=1992&rft.isbn=978-0-89886-323-9&rft.aulast=Kauffman&rft.aufirst=Andrew+J.&rft.au=Putnam%2C+William+L.&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFMantovani2007" class="citation book cs1">Mantovani, Roberto (2007). <i>K2 – A Final Report: Postscript</i>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=K2+%E2%80%93+A+Final+Report%3A+Postscript&rft.date=2007&rft.aulast=Mantovani&rft.aufirst=Roberto&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> Translated into English in <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation book cs1">Marshall, Robert (2009). <i>K2: Lies and Treachery</i>. Carreg Press. pp. 166–174. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780953863174" title="Special:BookSources/9780953863174"><bdi>9780953863174</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=K2%3A+Lies+and+Treachery&rft.pages=166-174&rft.pub=Carreg+Press&rft.date=2009&rft.isbn=9780953863174&rft.aulast=Marshall&rft.aufirst=Robert&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFMarainiMonticoneZanzi2004" class="citation book cs1">Maraini, Fosco; Monticone, Alberto; Zanzi, Luigi (2004). <i>The Tre Saggi Report</i>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The+Tre+Saggi+Report&rft.date=2004&rft.aulast=Maraini&rft.aufirst=Fosco&rft.au=Monticone%2C+Alberto&rft.au=Zanzi%2C+Luigi&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> Translated into English in <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation book cs1">Marshall, Robert (2009). "Appendix Two". <i>K2: Lies and Treachery</i>. Carreg Press. pp. 208–232. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780953863174" title="Special:BookSources/9780953863174"><bdi>9780953863174</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=Appendix+Two&rft.btitle=K2%3A+Lies+and+Treachery&rft.pages=208-232&rft.pub=Carreg+Press&rft.date=2009&rft.isbn=9780953863174&rft.aulast=Marshall&rft.aufirst=Robert&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> <span title="Italian-language text"><i lang="it">Tre Saggi</i></span> report</li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFMarainiMonticoneZanziCAI2007" class="citation book cs1">Maraini, Fosco; Monticone, Alberto; Zanzi, Luigi; CAI (2007). <i>K2 a Finished Story</i>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=K2+a+Finished+Story&rft.date=2007&rft.aulast=Maraini&rft.aufirst=Fosco&rft.au=Monticone%2C+Alberto&rft.au=Zanzi%2C+Luigi&rft.au=CAI&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> Translated into English and summarized in <link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation book cs1">Marshall, Robert (2009). "Chapter 7: Recognition". <i>K2: Lies and Treachery</i>. Carreg Press. pp. 155–180. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780953863174" title="Special:BookSources/9780953863174"><bdi>9780953863174</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=Chapter+7%3A+Recognition&rft.btitle=K2%3A+Lies+and+Treachery&rft.pages=155-180&rft.pub=Carreg+Press&rft.date=2009&rft.isbn=9780953863174&rft.aulast=Marshall&rft.aufirst=Robert&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Club_Alpino_Italiano" title="Club Alpino Italiano">Club Alpino Italiano</a> report</li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFMarshall2009" class="citation book cs1">Marshall, Robert (2009). <i>K2: lies and treachery</i>. Carreg Press. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780953863174" title="Special:BookSources/9780953863174"><bdi>9780953863174</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=K2%3A+lies+and+treachery&rft.pub=Carreg+Press&rft.date=2009&rft.isbn=9780953863174&rft.aulast=Marshall&rft.aufirst=Robert&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFSale2011" class="citation book cs1">Sale, Richard (2011). "Chapter 4. The First Ascent: The Italians, 1954". <i>The Challenge of K2 a History of the Savage Mountain</i> (EPUB ebook). Barnsley: Pen & Sword. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-84468-702-2" title="Special:BookSources/978-1-84468-702-2"><bdi>978-1-84468-702-2</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=Chapter+4.+The+First+Ascent%3A+The+Italians%2C+1954&rft.btitle=The+Challenge+of+K2+a+History+of+the+Savage+Mountain&rft.place=Barnsley&rft.pub=Pen+%26+Sword&rft.date=2011&rft.isbn=978-1-84468-702-2&rft.aulast=Sale&rft.aufirst=Richard&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> page numbers from Aldiko Android app showing entire book as 305 pages.</li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFViesturs2009" class="citation book cs1"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/Ed_Viesturs" title="Ed Viesturs">Viesturs, Ed</a> (2009). "Chapter 6. The Price of Conquest". <i>K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain</i> (EPUB ebook). with <a href="/enwiki/wiki/David_Roberts_(climber)" title="David Roberts (climber)">Roberts, David</a>. New York: Broadway. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-7679-3261-5" title="Special:BookSources/978-0-7679-3261-5"><bdi>978-0-7679-3261-5</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=bookitem&rft.atitle=Chapter+6.+The+Price+of+Conquest&rft.btitle=K2%3A+Life+and+Death+on+the+World%27s+Most+Dangerous+Mountain&rft.place=New+York&rft.pub=Broadway&rft.date=2009&rft.isbn=978-0-7679-3261-5&rft.aulast=Viesturs&rft.aufirst=Ed&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> page numbers from Aldiko Android app showing entire book as 284 pages.</li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFVogelAaronson2000" class="citation audio-visual cs1">Vogel, Gregory M.; Aaronson, Reuben (2000). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxL_bzt7Pyo"><i>Quest For K2 Savage Mountain</i></a> (television production). James McQuillan (producer). National Geographic Creative. Event occurs at 18:09<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">24 October</span> 2018</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=Quest+For+K2+Savage+Mountain&rft.pub=National+Geographic+Creative&rft.date=2000&rft.aulast=Vogel&rft.aufirst=Gregory+M.&rft.au=Aaronson%2C+Reuben&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DlxL_bzt7Pyo&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li></ul>
<div class="mw-heading mw-heading2"><h2 id="Italian_sources_and_further_reading">Italian sources and further reading</h2><span class="mw-editsection"><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">[</span><a href="/enwiki/w/index.php?title=1954_Italian_expedition_to_K2&action=edit&section=18" title="Edit section's source code: Italian sources and further reading"><span>edit source</span></a><span class="mw-editsection-bracket">]</span></span></div>
<style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1235681985">.mw-parser-output .side-box{margin:4px 0;box-sizing:border-box;border:1px solid #aaa;font-size:88%;line-height:1.25em;background-color:var(--background-color-interactive-subtle,#f8f9fa);display:flow-root}.mw-parser-output .side-box-abovebelow,.mw-parser-output .side-box-text{padding:0.25em 0.9em}.mw-parser-output .side-box-image{padding:2px 0 2px 0.9em;text-align:center}.mw-parser-output .side-box-imageright{padding:2px 0.9em 2px 0;text-align:center}@media(min-width:500px){.mw-parser-output .side-box-flex{display:flex;align-items:center}.mw-parser-output .side-box-text{flex:1;min-width:0}}@media(min-width:720px){.mw-parser-output .side-box{width:238px}.mw-parser-output .side-box-right{clear:right;float:right;margin-left:1em}.mw-parser-output .side-box-left{margin-right:1em}}</style><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1237033735">@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .sistersitebox{display:none!important}}@media screen{html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .sistersitebox img[src*="Wiktionary-logo-en-v2.svg"]{background-color:white}}@media screen and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .sistersitebox img[src*="Wiktionary-logo-en-v2.svg"]{background-color:white}}</style><div class="side-box side-box-right plainlinks sistersitebox"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1126788409">.mw-parser-output .plainlist ol,.mw-parser-output .plainlist ul{line-height:inherit;list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}.mw-parser-output .plainlist ol li,.mw-parser-output .plainlist ul li{margin-bottom:0}</style>
<div class="side-box-flex">
<div class="side-box-image"><span class="noviewer" typeof="mw:File"><span><img alt="" src="/upwiki/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/30px-Commons-logo.svg.png" decoding="async" width="30" height="40" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/45px-Commons-logo.svg.png 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4a/Commons-logo.svg/59px-Commons-logo.svg.png 2x" data-file-width="1024" data-file-height="1376" /></span></span></div>
<div class="side-box-text plainlist">Wikimedia Commons has media related to <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:1954_K2_expedition" class="extiw" title="commons:Category:1954 K2 expedition">1954 K2 expedition</a></span>.</div></div>
</div>
<ul><li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation audio-visual cs1 cs1-prop-foreign-lang-source">Baldi, Marcello (1955). <i><a href="/enwiki/wiki/Italia_K2" title="Italia K2">Italia K2</a></i> (motion picture) (in Italian). Mario Fantin (cinematographer). Club Alpino Italiano.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=unknown&rft.btitle=Italia+K2&rft.pub=Club+Alpino+Italiano&rft.date=1955&rft.aulast=Baldi&rft.aufirst=Marcello&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFBonatti1961" class="citation book cs1 cs1-prop-foreign-lang-source">Bonatti, Walter (1961). <i>Le mie montagne</i> [<i>My Mountains</i>] (in Italian). Zanichelli.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Le+mie+montagne&rft.pub=Zanichelli&rft.date=1961&rft.aulast=Bonatti&rft.aufirst=Walter&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> Translated into English in <i>On the Heights</i> (<a href="#CITEREFBonatti1962">Bonatti 1962</a>)</li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFBonatti1962" class="citation book cs1">Bonatti, Walter (1962). <i>On the Heights</i>. Translated by Edwards., Lovett F. Hart-Davis.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=On+the+Heights&rft.pub=Hart-Davis&rft.date=1962&rft.aulast=Bonatti&rft.aufirst=Walter&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> English translation of <span title="Italian-language text"><i lang="it">Le mie montagne</i></span> (<a href="#CITEREFBonatti1961">Bonatti 1961</a>)</li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFBonatti1995" class="citation book cs1 cs1-prop-foreign-lang-source">Bonatti, Walter (1995). <i>Montagne di una vita</i> (in Italian). Baldini & Castoldi.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Montagne+di+una+vita&rft.pub=Baldini+%26+Castoldi&rft.date=1995&rft.aulast=Bonatti&rft.aufirst=Walter&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> Translated into English in <i>The Mountains of My Life</i> (<a href="#CITEREFBonatti2010">Bonatti 2010</a>)</li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite id="CITEREFDesio1954" class="citation book cs1 cs1-prop-foreign-lang-source">Desio, Ardito (1954). <i>La Conquista del K2: Seconda Cima del Mondo</i> [<i>Victory over K2: Second Highest Peak in the World</i>] (in Italian). Milan: Garzanti.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=La+Conquista+del+K2%3A+Seconda+Cima+del+Mondo&rft.place=Milan&rft.pub=Garzanti&rft.date=1954&rft.aulast=Desio&rft.aufirst=Ardito&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span> Translated into English in <i>Victory over K2</i> (<a href="#CITEREFDesio1956">Desio 1956</a>)</li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation web cs1">Horrell, Mark (21 October 2015). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2015/book-review-the-ghosts-of-k2-by-mick-conefrey/">"Book review: The Ghosts of K2 by Mick Conefrey"</a>. <i>Footsteps on the Mountain</i>. <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://web.archive.org/web/20180310053845/http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2015/book-review-the-ghosts-of-k2-by-mick-conefrey/">Archived</a> from the original on 10 March 2018<span class="reference-accessdate">. Retrieved <span class="nowrap">7 December</span> 2018</span>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=unknown&rft.jtitle=Footsteps+on+the+Mountain&rft.atitle=Book+review%3A+The+Ghosts+of+K2+by+Mick+Conefrey&rft.date=2015-10-21&rft.aulast=Horrell&rft.aufirst=Mark&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.markhorrell.com%2Fblog%2F2015%2Fbook-review-the-ghosts-of-k2-by-mick-conefrey%2F&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation book cs1">Lacedelli, Lino; Cenacchi, Giovanni (2006). <i>K2: the price of conquest</i>. Carreg. <a href="/enwiki/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)" class="mw-redirect" title="ISBN (identifier)">ISBN</a> <a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780953863136" title="Special:BookSources/9780953863136"><bdi>9780953863136</bdi></a>.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=K2%3A+the+price+of+conquest&rft.pub=Carreg&rft.date=2006&rft.isbn=9780953863136&rft.aulast=Lacedelli&rft.aufirst=Lino&rft.au=Cenacchi%2C+Giovanni&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li>
<li><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1238218222"><cite class="citation journal cs1">Marshall, Robert (2005). <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2005_files/AJ%202005%20191-200%20Marshall%20K2.pdf">"Re-writing the History of K2 – a story <i>all'italiana</i>"</a> <span class="cs1-format">(PDF)</span>. <i>Alpine Journal</i>: 193–200.</cite><span title="ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.jtitle=Alpine+Journal&rft.atitle=Re-writing+the+History+of+K2+%E2%80%93+a+story+all%27italiana&rft.pages=193-200&rft.date=2005&rft.aulast=Marshall&rft.aufirst=Robert&rft_id=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.alpinejournal.org.uk%2FContents%2FContents_2005_files%2FAJ%25202005%2520191-200%2520Marshall%2520K2.pdf&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fen.wikipedia.org%3A1954+Italian+expedition+to+K2" class="Z3988"></span></li></ul>
<div class="navbox-styles"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1129693374">.mw-parser-output .hlist dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul{margin:0;padding:0}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt,.mw-parser-output .hlist li{margin:0;display:inline}.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist.inline ul,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist dl ul,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist ol ul,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul dl,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul ol,.mw-parser-output .hlist ul ul{display:inline}.mw-parser-output .hlist .mw-empty-li{display:none}.mw-parser-output .hlist dt::after{content:": "}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist li::after{content:" · ";font-weight:bold}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist li:last-child::after{content:none}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd dd:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist dd dt:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist dd li:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt dd:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt dt:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt li:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist li dd:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist li dt:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist li li:first-child::before{content:" (";font-weight:normal}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd dd:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist dd dt:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist dd li:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt dd:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt dt:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt li:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist li dd:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist li dt:last-child::after,.mw-parser-output .hlist li li:last-child::after{content:")";font-weight:normal}.mw-parser-output .hlist ol{counter-reset:listitem}.mw-parser-output .hlist ol>li{counter-increment:listitem}.mw-parser-output .hlist ol>li::before{content:" "counter(listitem)"\a0 "}.mw-parser-output .hlist dd ol>li:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist dt ol>li:first-child::before,.mw-parser-output .hlist li ol>li:first-child::before{content:" ("counter(listitem)"\a0 "}</style><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1236075235">.mw-parser-output .navbox{box-sizing:border-box;border:1px solid #a2a9b1;width:100%;clear:both;font-size:88%;text-align:center;padding:1px;margin:1em auto 0}.mw-parser-output .navbox .navbox{margin-top:0}.mw-parser-output .navbox+.navbox,.mw-parser-output .navbox+.navbox-styles+.navbox{margin-top:-1px}.mw-parser-output .navbox-inner,.mw-parser-output .navbox-subgroup{width:100%}.mw-parser-output .navbox-group,.mw-parser-output .navbox-title,.mw-parser-output .navbox-abovebelow{padding:0.25em 1em;line-height:1.5em;text-align:center}.mw-parser-output .navbox-group{white-space:nowrap;text-align:right}.mw-parser-output .navbox,.mw-parser-output .navbox-subgroup{background-color:#fdfdfd}.mw-parser-output .navbox-list{line-height:1.5em;border-color:#fdfdfd}.mw-parser-output .navbox-list-with-group{text-align:left;border-left-width:2px;border-left-style:solid}.mw-parser-output tr+tr>.navbox-abovebelow,.mw-parser-output tr+tr>.navbox-group,.mw-parser-output tr+tr>.navbox-image,.mw-parser-output tr+tr>.navbox-list{border-top:2px solid #fdfdfd}.mw-parser-output .navbox-title{background-color:#ccf}.mw-parser-output .navbox-abovebelow,.mw-parser-output .navbox-group,.mw-parser-output .navbox-subgroup .navbox-title{background-color:#ddf}.mw-parser-output .navbox-subgroup .navbox-group,.mw-parser-output .navbox-subgroup .navbox-abovebelow{background-color:#e6e6ff}.mw-parser-output .navbox-even{background-color:#f7f7f7}.mw-parser-output .navbox-odd{background-color:transparent}.mw-parser-output .navbox .hlist td dl,.mw-parser-output .navbox .hlist td ol,.mw-parser-output .navbox .hlist td ul,.mw-parser-output .navbox td.hlist dl,.mw-parser-output .navbox td.hlist ol,.mw-parser-output .navbox td.hlist ul{padding:0.125em 0}.mw-parser-output .navbox .navbar{display:block;font-size:100%}.mw-parser-output .navbox-title .navbar{float:left;text-align:left;margin-right:0.5em}body.skin--responsive .mw-parser-output .navbox-image img{max-width:none!important}@media print{body.ns-0 .mw-parser-output .navbox{display:none!important}}</style></div><div role="navigation" class="navbox" aria-labelledby="K2" style="padding:3px"><table class="nowraplinks mw-collapsible mw-collapsed navbox-inner" style="border-spacing:0;background:transparent;color:inherit"><tbody><tr><th scope="col" class="navbox-title" colspan="3"><link rel="mw-deduplicated-inline-style" href="mw-data:TemplateStyles:r1129693374"><style data-mw-deduplicate="TemplateStyles:r1239400231">.mw-parser-output .navbar{display:inline;font-size:88%;font-weight:normal}.mw-parser-output .navbar-collapse{float:left;text-align:left}.mw-parser-output .navbar-boxtext{word-spacing:0}.mw-parser-output .navbar ul{display:inline-block;white-space:nowrap;line-height:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-brackets::before{margin-right:-0.125em;content:"[ "}.mw-parser-output .navbar-brackets::after{margin-left:-0.125em;content:" ]"}.mw-parser-output .navbar li{word-spacing:-0.125em}.mw-parser-output .navbar a>span,.mw-parser-output .navbar a>abbr{text-decoration:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-mini abbr{font-variant:small-caps;border-bottom:none;text-decoration:none;cursor:inherit}.mw-parser-output .navbar-ct-full{font-size:114%;margin:0 7em}.mw-parser-output .navbar-ct-mini{font-size:114%;margin:0 4em}html.skin-theme-clientpref-night .mw-parser-output .navbar li a abbr{color:var(--color-base)!important}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){html.skin-theme-clientpref-os .mw-parser-output .navbar li a abbr{color:var(--color-base)!important}}@media print{.mw-parser-output .navbar{display:none!important}}</style><div class="navbar plainlinks hlist navbar-mini"><ul><li class="nv-view"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/Template:K2nav" title="Template:K2nav"><abbr title="View this template">v</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-talk"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/Template_talk:K2nav" title="Template talk:K2nav"><abbr title="Discuss this template">t</abbr></a></li><li class="nv-edit"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/Special:EditPage/Template:K2nav" title="Special:EditPage/Template:K2nav"><abbr title="Edit this template">e</abbr></a></li></ul></div><div id="K2" style="font-size:114%;margin:0 4em"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/K2" title="K2">K2</a></div></th></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Topography and landmarks</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em">
<ul><li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/K2" title="K2">K2</a></li>
<li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/Bottleneck_(K2)" title="Bottleneck (K2)">Bottleneck couloir</a></li>
<li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/House%27s_Chimney" title="House's Chimney">House's Chimney</a></li>
<li>The Black Pyramid</li>
<li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/Gilkey_Memorial" title="Gilkey Memorial">Gilkey Memorial</a></li></ul>
</div></td><td class="noviewer navbox-image" rowspan="4" style="width:1px;padding:0 0 0 2px"><div><span typeof="mw:File"><a href="/enwiki/wiki/File:K2_2006b.jpg" class="mw-file-description"><img src="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/12/K2_2006b.jpg/70px-K2_2006b.jpg" decoding="async" width="70" height="53" class="mw-file-element" srcset="/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/12/K2_2006b.jpg/105px-K2_2006b.jpg 1.5x, /upwiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/12/K2_2006b.jpg/140px-K2_2006b.jpg 2x" data-file-width="1600" data-file-height="1200" /></a></span></div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Expeditions</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em">
<ul><li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/1938_American_Karakoram_expedition_to_K2" title="1938 American Karakoram expedition to K2">1938 American</a></li>
<li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/1939_American_Karakoram_expedition_to_K2" title="1939 American Karakoram expedition to K2">1939 American</a></li>
<li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/1953_American_Karakoram_expedition" title="1953 American Karakoram expedition">1953 American</a></li>
<li><a class="mw-selflink selflink">1954 Italian</a>
<ul><li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/1954_Italian_Karakoram_expedition_controversy" title="1954 Italian Karakoram expedition controversy">controversy</a></li></ul></li></ul>
</div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">Disasters and fatalities</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-odd hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em">
<ul><li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/1986_K2_disaster" title="1986 K2 disaster">1986 K2 disaster</a></li>
<li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/1995_K2_disaster" title="1995 K2 disaster">1995 K2 disaster</a></li>
<li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/2008_K2_disaster" title="2008 K2 disaster">2008 K2 disaster</a></li>
<li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/List_of_deaths_on_eight-thousanders#K2" title="List of deaths on eight-thousanders">List of deaths on K2</a></li></ul>
</div></td></tr><tr><th scope="row" class="navbox-group" style="width:1%">In media</th><td class="navbox-list-with-group navbox-list navbox-even hlist" style="width:100%;padding:0"><div style="padding:0 0.25em">
<ul><li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/List_of_books_about_K2" title="List of books about K2">List of books about K2</a></li>
<li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/K2_(board_game)" title="K2 (board game)"><i>K2</i> (board game)</a></li>
<li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/K2_(film)" title="K2 (film)"><i>K2</i> (film)</a></li>
<li><i><a href="/enwiki/wiki/K2:_Siren_of_the_Himalayas" title="K2: Siren of the Himalayas">K2: Siren of the Himalayas</a></i></li>
<li><a href="/enwiki/wiki/The_Summit_(2012_film)" title="The Summit (2012 film)"><i>The Summit</i> (2012 film)</a></li>
<li><i><a href="/enwiki/wiki/Vertical_Limit" title="Vertical Limit">Vertical Limit</a></i></li></ul>
</div></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div>' |
Whether or not the change was made through a Tor exit node (tor_exit_node) | false |
Unix timestamp of change (timestamp) | '1729177452' |