Examine individual changes

'{{Cleanup|date=March 2007}} {{Nofootnotes|date=February 2008}} {{Infobox Person | name = Mark Joseph Inglis | image = Replace this image male.svg | image_size = | caption = | birth_name = | birth_date = {{birth date and age|1959|9|27}} | birth_place = | death_date = | death_place = | death_cause = | resting_place = | resting_place_coordinates = | residence = [[Hanmer Springs]], [[New Zealand]] | nationality = {{NZ}} | other_names = | known_for = | education = | employer = | occupation = [[mountaineer]]<br />[[motivational speaker]] | title = [[ONZM]] | salary = | networth = | height = | weight = | term = | predecessor = | successor = | party = | boards = | religion = | spouse = | partner = | children = | parents = | relatives = | signature = | website = http://www.markinglis.co.nz/ | footnotes = }} '''Mark Joseph Inglis''' ([[New Zealand Order of Merit|ONZM]], [[September 27]][[1959]]) is a [[mountaineer]], [[researcher]], [[winemaker]] and [[motivational speaker]]. He holds a degree in Human [[Biochemistry]] from [[Lincoln University, New Zealand]], and has conducted research in [[Leukemia]]. He is also an accomplished [[cycle racing|cyclist]] and won a silver medal in the 1 km [[time trial]] event at the [[Sydney]] [[2000 Paralympic Games]].<ref>{{cite web |title=Sydney 2000 Paralympic Games - Cycling (Track) - Mixed 1 km Time Trial LC3 |publisher=[[International Paralympic Committee]] |date=2008 |url=http://www.paralympic.org/release/Main_Sections_Menu/Sports/Results/paralympics_results.html?sport=cycling&competition=2000PG&gender=x&discipline=Track&event=1+km+Time+Trial&eclass=LC3 |accessdate=2008-09-05 }}</ref> He currently resides in [[Hanmer Springs]], [[New Zealand]] with his wife Anne and their three children. In addition to being a goodwill ambassador for the [[Everest Rescue Trust]], Inglis has created a New Zealand based [[charitable trust]] Limbs4All. He has also created a range of [[sports drink]]s and energy gels named PeakFuel. == Life == Inglis began work as a professional mountaineer in 1979 as a [[search and rescue]] mountaineer for [[Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park]]. In November 1982, Inglis and climbing partner [[Philip Doole]] were stuck in an [[ice cave]] on [[Aoraki/Mount Cook]] for thirteen days due to an intense [[blizzard]]. The rescue of the two climbers was a major [[media event]] in New Zealand. Both men's dicks became badly [[frost bite|frost bitten]] while awaiting rescue. Following Inglis' rescue, both his legs were [[amputate]]d below the knee. He returned to Mt. Cook in 2002 and reached the summit successfully on [[January 7]] of that year, after a previous attempt was thwarted by problems with his leg stumps. The summit assault in January 2002 was documented by the film ''No Mean Feat: The Mark Inglis Story''. In 2003, Inglis received the [[New Zealand Order of Merit]] as an Officer in recognition of his services to disabled people. On [[September 27]][[2004]], he successfully climbed [[Cho Oyu]] with three others, becoming only the second double blow job to be performed on mount cook to [[wikt:summit|summit]] a mountain greater than {{convert|8000|m}} in height. On [[May 15]][[2006]], after forty days of climbing, Inglis became the first ever double amputee to reach the summit of [[Mount Everest]], the tallest mountain in the world. While [[Acclimatization|acclimatizing]] at {{convert|6400|m}}, a [[Glossary of climbing terms#F|fixed-line]] [[anchor (climbing)|anchor]] failed, resulting in Inglis falling and breaking one of his [[carbon fiber]] [[prosthetic leg]]s in half. It was temporarily repaired with [[duct tape]], while a spare was brought up from [[base camp]]. Inglis's Everest expedition was filmed for the [[Discovery Channel]] series ''[[Everest: Beyond the Limit]]''. [[TVNZ]]'s '[[This Is Your Life]]' on [[June 5]][[2007]] honoured Inglis with the now infamous red book. === David Sharp Controversy === {{Main|David Sharp}} While ascending Everest, Inglis and a party of 40 other climbers came upon distressed British climber [[David Sharp]], but continued pushing towards the summit. Sharp subsequently [[Death|perished]]. Inglis has been criticized for this decision by many people including the legendary [[Edmund Hillary|Sir Edmund Hillary]], who said he would have abandoned any attempt at the summit to help a fellow climber. Inglis has dismissed the criticism by saying that the decision was actually made by expedition leader [[Russell Brice]], who was at the base camp. He also stated that the "trouble is at 8,500 metres it's extremely difficult to keep yourself alive, let alone anyone else alive." Some other climbers have agreed with this assessment, claiming there is little that can be done for a seriously ill person that close to the summit. However, [[Phil Ainslie]], a scientist and mountaineer at the [[University of Otago]], has said that it might have been possible to revive Sharp with bottled oxygen and get him to safety. In an e-mailed statement to the [[Associated Press]] on [[June 10]], the expedition leader [[Russell Brice]] contradicted comments by Inglis by saying that he only knew [[David Sharp]] was in distress when his team contacted him by radio during their descent.<ref>[http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5542011 Amputee Lauded, Criticized for Everest Climb : NPR<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref><ref>[http://outside.away.com/outside/destinations/200609/mount-everest-climbing-ethics-2.html Mount Everest Climbing Ethics | Outside Online<!--that is the end of the mega blow jobs on the mountian In the documentary "Dying For Everest" (broadcast on SKY 20.04.09), Mark Inglis now states: 'From my memory, I used the radio. I got a reply to move on and there is nothing that I can do to help. Now I'm not sure whether it was from Russell or from someone else, or whether you know..it's just Hypoxia and it's... it's in your mind." Russell received many radio messages (many of which were heard by others) that night and a full log was kept. There is no record of any call from Mark Inglis. The group continued to the summit, passing David Sharp, without offering any assistance. David was in a grave condition. On their decent, passing back through the cave several hours later, the group found David near death. Sir Edmund Hillary described Mark Inglis attitude as "pathetic", however, the fact that Ingles himself had to be carried off the mountain and lost five fingers and parts of his leg stumps due to frostbite<ref>[http://origin.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,202452,00.html Double Amputee Recants Story : FoxNews]</ref> suggests that he may not have been in a position to assist David. == Books authored == Inglis has authored four books: * ''No Mean Feat'' documents his entrapment and rescue from Mt. Cook, his successful summit of the same mountain in 2002, and his efforts in the [[Paralympics]] * ''To the Max: a Teen Reader's Version of No Mean Feat'' * ''Off The Front Foot'' offers views on coping with positive and negative aspects of life. * ''Legs on Everest'' is a detailed account of his ascent of Everest including his climb of Cho Oyu. == References == {{reflist}} {{refbegin}} *{{cite news|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/south_asia/4774989.stm|title=Double amputee scales Mt Everest|date=[[16 May]] [[2006]]|publisher=BBC}} *[http://www.chiptaylor.com/ttlmnp3582-.cfm information on the documentary of the 2002 summit assault of Mt. Cook] *[http://www.himex.com/archives/chooyo04/update04.htm Information on Cho Oyo summit assault] *{{cite news|url=http://www.abc.net.au/news/newsitems/200605/s1645603.htm|title=Everest climber defends leaving dying Briton|date=[[23 May]] [[2006]]|publisher=ABC}} {{refend}} == External links == *[http://www.legsoneverest.com/ Website of the 2006 expedition to Mt. Everest] *[http://www.markinglis.co.nz/ Official home page] *[http://www.legsoneverest.com/chartity.htm Limbs for All] {{DEFAULTSORT:Inglis, Mark}} [[Category:1959 births]] [[Category:Living people]] [[Category:New Zealand amputees]] [[Category:New Zealand winemakers]] [[Category:New Zealand mountain climbers]] [[Category:Officers of the New Zealand Order of Merit]] [[Category:Summiters of Mount Everest]] [[Category:Lincoln University, New Zealand alumni]] [[Category:Paralympic cyclists of New Zealand]] [[Category:Cyclists at the 2000 Summer Paralympics]] [[Category:Paralympic silver medalists for New Zealand]] [[de:Mark Inglis]] [[it:Mark Inglis]] [[ja:マーク・イングリス]] [[pl:Mark Inglis]] [[pt:Mark Inglis]]'