Old page wikitext, before the edit (old_wikitext) | '{{Redirect|Yosemite}}
{{short description|National park in California, United States}}
{{pp-move-indef}}
{{Use American English|date=March 2021}}
{{Use mdy dates|date=April 2018}}
{{Infobox protected area
| name = Yosemite National Park
| iucn_category = II
| photo = Tunnel View, Yosemite Valley, Yosemite NP - Diliff.jpg
| photo_caption = [[Yosemite Valley]] from [[Tunnel View]]
| map = California#USA
| label = Yosemite National Park
| map_caption = Location in California##Location in the United States
| map_width =
| location = [[Tuolumne County, California|Tuolumne]], [[Mariposa County, California|Mariposa]], [[Mono County, California|Mono]] and [[Madera County, California|Madera Counties]], [[California]], United States
| nearest_city = [[Mariposa, California]]
| coordinates = {{coord|37|44|33|N|119|32|15|W|region:US-CA|display=inline, title}}
| coords_ref = <ref>{{cite gnis|255923|Yosemite National Park}}</ref>
| established = {{start date|1890|10|1}}
| area_acre = 759620
| area_ref = <ref name="statistics">{{cite web |url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/management/statistics.htm |title=Park Statistics |publisher=Yosemite National Park ([[U.S. National Park Service]]) |access-date=July 22, 2018}}</ref>
| visitation_num = 2,268,313
| visitation_year = 2020
| visitation_ref = <ref>{{cite web |title=Annual Visitation Highlights |url=https://irma.nps.gov/STATS/Reports/Park/YOSE |website=nps.gov |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=30 April 2021}}</ref>
| governing_body = [[National Park Service]]
| website = [https://www.nps.gov/yose/ Yosemite National Park]
| embedded1 =
{{Infobox UNESCO World Heritage Site
|child = yes
|ID = 308
|Year = 1984
|Criteria = Natural: vii, viii
}}
}}
'''Yosemite National Park''' ({{IPAc-en|j|oʊ|ˈ|s|ɛ|m|ɪ|t|i}} {{respell|yoh|SEM|ih|tee}})<ref>{{MW|Yosemite Falls}}</ref> is an American [[national park]] in [[California]],<ref>{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=324}}</ref><ref name="VisitCal">{{cite web|url=http://www.visitcalifornia.com/region/discover-high-sierra|title=Discover the High Sierra|publisher=[[California Office of Tourism]]}}</ref> surrounded on the southeast by [[Sierra National Forest]] and on the northwest by [[Stanislaus National Forest]]. The park is managed by the [[National Park Service]] and covers an area of {{convert|759620|acre|sqmi km2|0}}<ref name="statistics" /> and sits in four [[County|counties]]{{snd}}centered in [[Tuolumne County, California|Tuolumne]] and [[Mariposa County, California|Mariposa]], extending north and east to [[Mono County, California|Mono]] and south to [[Madera County, California|Madera County]]. Designated a [[World Heritage Site]] in 1984, Yosemite is internationally recognized for its granite cliffs, waterfalls, clear streams, [[Sequoiadendron giganteum|giant sequoia]] groves, lakes, mountains, meadows, glaciers, and [[Biodiversity|biological diversity]].<ref name = "naturehistory">{{cite web | title =Nature & History | publisher = United States National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url =http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/nature.htm | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070125062753/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/nature.htm|archive-date=January 25, 2007 | date = October 13, 2006 | access-date = January 27, 2007}}</ref> Almost 95 percent of the park is designated [[National Wilderness Preservation System|wilderness]].<ref>{{cite web | title =Yosemite Wilderness| publisher = United States National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/yosemitewilderness.htm | access-date = March 15, 2008 }}</ref> Yosemite is one of the largest and least fragmented habitat blocks in the [[Sierra Nevada]], and the park supports a diversity of plants and animals.
The [[geology of the Yosemite area]] is characterized by granite rocks and remnants of older rock. About 10 million years ago, the Sierra Nevada was uplifted and tilted to form its unique slopes, which increased the steepness of stream and river beds, resulting in the formation of deep, narrow canyons. About one million years ago glaciers formed at higher elevations which eventually melted and moved downslope, cutting and sculpting the U-shaped valley that attracts so many visitors to its scenic vistas today.<ref name="naturehistory" />
Yosemite National Park itself was discovered by European American settlers in 1851. There are earlier instances of other travelers entering the Valley but [[Jim Savage|James D. Savage]] is accredited with discovering the area that is now known as Yosemite National Park.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Yosemite NP: Early History of Yosemite Valley |url=https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/yose/kuykendall/sec.htm |access-date=2022-04-21 |website=www.nps.gov }}</ref> Despite Savage and other white men claiming their discovery of Yosemite, the region and Valley itself has been inhabited for nearly 4,000 years, although humans may have first visited the area as long as 8,000 to 10,000 years ago.<ref>{{Cite book | title=Yosemite: Official National Park Service Handbook |publisher=National Park Service |year=1989 |series=no. 138 |location=Washington, DC |page=102}}</ref><ref name=":1" />
Yosemite was critical to the development of the national park idea. [[Galen Clark]] and others lobbied to protect Yosemite Valley from development, ultimately leading to President [[Abraham Lincoln]] signing the Yosemite Grant of 1864 which declared Yosemite as federally preserved land.<ref name="historyculture" /> It was not until 1890 when [[John Muir]] led a successful movement which had [[United States Congress|Congress]] establish Yosemite Valley and its surrounding areas as a National Park. This helped pave the way for the [[National Park Service#National Park System|National Park System]].<ref name="historyculture" /> Yosemite now draws about four million visitors each year,<ref name="visits">{{cite web | url=https://irma.nps.gov/Stats/SSRSReports/Park%20Specific%20Reports/Annual%20Park%20Recreation%20Visitation%20(1904%20-%20Last%20Calendar%20Year) | title = Annual Park Recreation Visitation (1904 – Last Calendar Year) | publisher=U.S. National Park Service | access-date=March 11, 2019}}</ref> and most visitors spend the majority of their time in the {{convert|7|sqmi|km2|spell=in}} of [[Yosemite Valley]].<ref name="naturehistory" /> The park set a visitation record in 2016, surpassing five million visitors for the first time in its history.<ref>{{cite web|title=New visitation record in 2016 as over 5 million people visited Yosemite National Park.|url=http://goldrushcam.com/sierrasuntimes/index.php/news/local-news/8685-new-visitation-record-in-2016-as-over-5-million-people-visited-yosemite-national-park|website=GoldRushCam.com|publisher=Sierra Sun Times|access-date=February 8, 2017}}</ref> The park began requiring reservations to access the park during peak periods starting in 2020 as a response to the rise in visitors.
==Toponym==
The word "Yosemite" (meaning "killer" in [[Miwok]]) historically referred to the name which the Miwok gave to the Ahwahneechee People, an Indigenous tribe driven out of Yosemite Valley by the [[Mariposa Battalion]].<ref name=Anderson/><ref name=":1" /><ref name=":0" /> Previously, the region had been called "Ahwahnee"("big mouth") by its only Indigenous inhabitants, the Ahwahneechee.<ref name=Anderson>{{cite web|title = Origin of the Word Yosemite|url = http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/origin_of_word_yosemite.html|website = www.yosemite.ca.us|access-date = October 4, 2015 |first1 = Dan |last1=Anderson}}</ref> The term "Yosemite" in Miwok is easily confusable with a similar term for "grizzly bear", and is still a common misconception today.<ref name=Anderson/><ref name=Beeler>{{cite journal|title=Yosemite and Tamalpais|journal=Journal of the American Name Society|volume=3|issue=3|pages=185–86|year=1955|first=Madison Scott|last=Beeler}}</ref>
==History==
{{Main|History of the Yosemite area}}
===Ahwahneechee and the Mariposa Wars===
{{multiple image
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| header =
| image1 = Miwok-Paiute ceremony in 1872 at current site of Yosemite Lodge.jpeg
| width1 = 195
| alt1 =
| caption1 = [[Northern Paiute people|Paiute]] ceremony (1872)
| image2 = Lafayette Bunnell 1880.jpg
| width2 = 160
| alt2 = engraving of Dr Lafayette Bunnell, showing him as an older man with a craggy face, short bristly hair and a cropped grey beard.
| caption2 = [[Lafayette Bunnell]] gave Yosemite Valley its name.
}}
The indigenous natives of Yosemite called themselves the [[Ahwahnechee|Ahwahneechee]], meaning "dwellers" in Ahwahnee.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Runte |first=Alfred |url=https://archive.org/details/yosemiteembattle00runt |title=Yosemite: The Embattled Wilderness |publisher=University of Nebraska Press |year=1990 |isbn=0803238940 |pages=Chapter 1}}</ref> The Ahwahneechee People was the only tribe that lived in the boundaries of Yosemite National Park but other tribes lived in its surrounding areas, together they formed a larger Indigneous population in California, called the [[Plains and Sierra Miwok|Southern Sierra Miwok.]]<ref name="Spence">{{cite journal |last1=Spence |first1=Mark |date=1996 |title=Dispossesing the Wilderness: Yosemite Indians and the National Park Ideal, 1864–1930 |journal=Pacific Historical Review |volume=65 |issue=1 |pages=27–59 |doi=10.2307/3640826 |issn=0030-8684 |jstor=3640826}}</ref> They are related to the Northern [[Northern Paiute|Paiute]] and [[Mono people|Mono]] tribes. Other tribes like the Central [[Sierra Miwoks]] and the [[Yokuts]], who both lived in the San Joaquin Valley and central California, visited Yosemite to trade and intermarry with the Ahwahneechee.<ref>{{Cite book |last=W. |first=Greene, Linda |url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/568734022 | title=Yosemite, the park and its resources: a history of the discovery, management, and physical development of Yosemite National Park, California : historic resource study |date=1987 |publisher=U.S. Dept. of the Interior, National Park Service |oclc=568734022}}</ref> This resulted in a blending of culture which helped preserve Indigenous people's presence in Yosemite after early American settlements and urban development threatened their survival.<ref name="Spence" /> Vegetation and game in the region were similar to that present today; acorns were a staple to their diet, as well as other seeds and plants, salmon and deer.<ref name="Spence" />
A major event impacting the native population of Yosemite and all of California in the mid-19th century was the [[California Gold Rush]], which drew more than 90,000 European Americans to the area in less than two years, causing competition for resources between gold miners and the local Natives.<ref>{{cite web |last=Maranzani |first=Barbara |date=August 31, 2018 |title=8 Things You May Not Know About the California Gold Rush |url=https://www.history.com/news/8-things-you-may-not-know-about-the-california-gold-rush |url-status=live |access-date=July 23, 2021 |website=History.com}}</ref> Before large amounts of European settlers arrived in California, about 70 years before the Gold Rush, the Indigenous population was estimated to be 300,000, once the Gold Rush started it dropped down to 150,000, and just ten years later, only about 50,000 remained.<ref name=":1" /> The reason for such a decline in the Native American population results from numerous reasons including disease, birth rate decreases, starvation, and the conflicts from the [[American Indian Wars]]. The conflict in Yosemite is known as the [[Mariposa War]], it started in December 1850 when California funded a state militia to drive Native people from contested territory, also known as Indigenous traditonal and sacred homelands; the goal was to suppress Native American resistance to American expansion.<ref name="miwuk">{{cite web |title=Who We Are |url=https://www.southernsierramiwuknation.org/about-2 |url-status=live |access-date=July 23, 2021 |publisher=Southern Sierra Miwuk Nation}}</ref>
In retaliation to the extermination and domestication of their people, and loss of their lands and resources, Yosemite Indian tribes often stole from settlers and miners, sometimes killing them, both actions seen as tribute for the great losses they experienced.<ref name=":1" /> The War and formation of the [[Mariposa Battalion]] was partially the result of a single incident involving [[Jim Savage|James Savage]], a trader in Fresno, California whose trading post was attacked in December, 1850. After the incident, Savage rallied other miners and gained the support of local officials to pursue revenge and a full out war against the Natives, that is how he was appointed [[United States Army]] Major and leader the Mariposa Battalion in the beginning of 1851.<ref name=":1" /> He and Captain John Boling were responsible for pursuing the Ahwahneechee people that were being led by [[Chief Tenaya]] and driving them as far west as possible, out of Yosemite.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Sketch of Yosemite National Park and an Account of the Origin of the Yosemite and Hetch Hetchy Valleys (History of Yosemite National Parkr) |url=https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/yose/matthes/sec1.htm |access-date=2022-04-19 |website=www.nps.gov}}</ref><ref name=":1" /> In March 1851 under the command of Savage, the Mariposa Battalion captured about 70 Ahwahneechee and planned to take them to a reservation in Fresno, but they all managed to escape. Later in May, under the command of Boling, the battalion captured 35 Ahwahneechee including Chief Tenaya and marched them to the reservation but most were allowed to eventually leave and the rest escaped.<ref name=":1" /> Tenaya and others fled across the [[Sierra Nevada]] and settled with the [[Kucadikadi|Mono Lake Paiutes]]. Tenaya and some of his companions were ultimately killed in 1853 either over stealing horses or a gambling conflict and the survivors of Tenaya's group and other Ahwahneechee were absorbed into the Mono Lake Paiute tribe.<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":2">{{Cite web |last=Bingaman |first=John W. |date=1966 |title=The Ahwahneechees: A Story of the Yosemite Indians |url=https://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/the_ahwahneechees/chapter_1.html |access-date=April 11, 2022 |website=yosemite.ca.us }}</ref><ref name=":3">{{cite web |last1=Godfrey |first1=Elizabeth |title=Yosemite Indians; Yesterday and Today |url=http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/yosemite_indians/history.html |access-date=26 August 2021 |website=Yosemite Indians}}</ref>
[[File:Chief Tenaya by Sculptor Sal Maccarone carved in 1990.jpg|thumb|226x226px|Sculpture of Chief Tenaya made by Sal Maccarone for the Tenaya Lodge in Yosemite National Park]]
Accounts from this battalion were the first well-documented reports of ethnic Europeans entering Yosemite Valley. Attached to Savage's unit was Doctor [[Lafayette Bunnell]], who later wrote about his awestruck impressions of the valley in ''The Discovery of the Yosemite''. Bunnell is credited with naming Yosemite Valley, based on his interviews with Chief Tenaya. Bunnell wrote that Chief Tenaya was the founder of the Ahwahnee colony.<ref name="Bunnell17">{{cite book|title=Discovery of the Yosemite and the Indian War of 1851 Which Led to That Event |last=Bunnell |first=Lafayette H. |url=http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/discovery_of_the_yosemite/17.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121005171611/http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/discovery_of_the_yosemite/17.html |archive-date=October 5, 2012 |chapter=Chapter 17 |publisher=F.H. Revell |year=1892 |access-date=January 27, 2007 |isbn=0939666588 |url-status=dead }}</ref> Bunnell falsely believed that the word "Yosemite" meant "full-grown grizzly bear."<ref>{{cite book|title=Discovery of the Yosemite and the Indian War of 1851 Which Led to That Event |last=Bunnell |first=Lafayette H.}}</ref> In fact, "Yosemite" was derived from the Miwok term for the Ahwaneechee people: ''yohhe'meti,'' meaning "they are killers".<ref name="Anderson" /><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?search=Yosemite&searchmode=none|title=Yosemite|work=Online etymology dictionary|access-date=September 10, 2010}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=1879. |first=Barrett, S. A. |url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/944730381 |title=Myths of the southern sierra miwok. |date=2010 |publisher=Nabu Press |isbn=978-1-177-40758-8 |oclc=944730381}}</ref>
===Indigenous peoples' presence post war and present day===
[[File:Lucy Telles basket.jpg|thumb|Basket woven by Lucy Telles (1885-1955), a [[Kucadikadi|Mono Lake Paiute]] and [[Miwok#Southern Sierra Miwok|Southern Sierra Miwok]] Native American artist from the Yosemite region|163x163px]]
After the [[Mariposa War]], a number of Native Americans continued to live in the Yosemite area, despite their overall population being severely decreased in the present-day park's boundary. The remaining Yosemite [[Ahwahneechee]] tribe members there were forced to relocate to an Indian village constructed in 1851 by the state government .<ref name=":1" /> They learned to live within this camp and their limited rights, adapting to the changing environment by taking advantage of the growing tourism industry through employment opportunities and creating small businesses from selling goods and providing services.<ref name="Spence" /> Despite the integration of Indigenous people into the growing American settlement and tourism industry, their villages were destroyed and their people were forced to relocate four different times throughout the park's history. The U.S. Army was responsible for the village's destruction in 1851 and 1906, and the National Park Service was responsible for it in 1929 and 1969.<ref name=":1" /> In 1969, the National Park Service evicted the remaining Native people from their residences and destroyed their village as part of a fire-fighting exercise.<ref name="miwuk" /> A reconstructed "Indian Village of Ahwahnee" has been erected behind the [[Yosemite Museum]], located next to the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center.<ref>{{cite web |title=Indian Village of the Ahwahnee – Yosemite National Park (U.S. National Park Service) |url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/historyculture/yosemite-indians.htm |access-date=1 March 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Yosemite Indians – Yosemite National Park (U.S. National Park Service) |url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/historyculture/indian-village-of-the-ahwahnee.htm |access-date=1 March 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Yosemite Valley map |url=https://www.nps.gov/carto/hfc/carto/media/YOSEmap2.pdf |access-date=1 March 2021}}</ref>
By the late 19th century, the population of all native inhabitants in Yosemite was difficult to determine, estimates ranged from smaller numbers, such as thirty individuals, to several hundred. The [[Ahwahneechee]] people and their descendants were even harder to identify.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Solnit|first=Rebecca| url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/876343009 | title=Savage Dreams: a Journey into the Hidden Wars of the American West.|date=2014|publisher=[[University of California Press]] |isbn=978-0-520-95792-3|location=Berkeley|oclc=876343009}}</ref> The last full-blooded Ahwahneechee died in 1931, her name was Totuya, or Maria Lebrado, she was the granddaughter of Chief [[Tenaya]] and one of many forced out of her ancestral homelands in Yosemite National Park.<ref name=":1" /><ref name="miwuk" /> Now the Ahwahneechee live through the memory of their descendants, their fellow Yosemite Natives, and through museums like the Yosemite, California museum exhibit in the [[Smithsonian Museum of American History|Smithsonian]] and the Yosemite Museum.<ref name=":1" /> As a method of self preservation and resilience, the Indigenous people of California proposed treaties in 1851 and 1852 which would have established land reservations for them but Congress refused to sign them.<ref name=":1" /> The quest for justice and sovereignty by Yosemite Natives has been ongoing for well over a hundred years. As of today, the Southern Sierra Miwuk Nation is still seeking tribal sovereignty and federal recognition, which is critical for their wellbeing and cultural preservation.<ref name="miwuk" /><ref name=":4">{{Cite web |title=Federal Recognition {{!}} Southern Sierra Miwuk Nation |url=https://www.southernsierramiwuknation.org/federal-recognition |access-date=2022-04-21 |website=SouthernSierra Miwuk |language=en}}</ref> Progress has been made in terms of the relationship between the U.S. government and tribal governments with the National Park Service creating policies to protect Indigenous sacred sites and allow Natives to return to their homelands and use National Park resources.<ref name=":4" /><ref>{{Cite book |first=Jeanette |last=Wolfley |url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/1305864036 |title=Reclaiming a presence in ancestral lands : the return of Native Peoples to the National Parks |date=2016 |publisher=[University of New Mexico, School of Law] |oclc=1305864036}}</ref>
===Early tourists===
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| image1 = 30. The dead giant.jpg
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| caption1 = The Dead Giant ({{circa|1870s}})
| image2 = 8. The vernal fall, Yosemite valley.jpg
| width2 = 188
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| caption2 = [[Vernal Fall]] ({{circa|1870s}})
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| image1 = Wawona Hotel.jpg
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| caption1 = The [[Wawona Hotel]] (1985)
| image2 = Mother Curry in front of Camp Curry.jpeg
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| alt2 = Woman in a long dress in front of a sign across a road. Wooden letters read "Camp Curry".
| caption2 = Jennie Curry in front of Camp Curry ({{circa|1900}})
}}
[[File:Camp Yosemite 1907.jpg|thumb|Advertisement of 1907 inviting tourists to the park]]
In 1855, entrepreneur [[James Mason Hutchings]], artist [[Thomas Ayres (artist)|Thomas Ayres]] and two others were the first to tour the area.<ref name="GeologyNP326">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=326}}</ref> Hutchings and Ayres were responsible for much of the earliest publicity about Yosemite, writing articles and [[Hutchings' Illustrated California Magazine|special magazine issues about the Valley]].{{sfn|Wuerthner|1994|p=20}} Ayres' style in art was highly detailed with exaggerated angularity. His works and written accounts were distributed nationally, and an art exhibition of his drawings was held in New York City. Hutchings' publicity efforts between 1855 and 1860 led to an increase in tourism to Yosemite.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://xroads.virginia.edu/~MA96/RAILROAD/yosemite.html|title=Discovery and Invention in the Yosemite|work=The Role of Railroads in Protecting, Promoting, and Selling Yellowstone and Yosemite National Parks|first=J.S.|last=Johns|publisher=University of Virginia|year=1996}}</ref> A number of Natives in Yosemite supported the growing tourism industry by working as laborers or maids. Later, they became part of the tourism industry itself by performing dances for tourists, being guides, and selling handcrafted good, most notably woven baskets.<ref name="Spence" /> The Indian village and its peoples were of immense interest to visitors, especially James Hutchings who was a large advocate for Yosemite tourism, he and many others considered the Indigenous presence as one of Yosemite's greatest attractions.<ref name="Spence" />
[[Wawona, California|Wawona]] was an early Indian encampment for Nuchu and Ahwahneechee Natives that were captured and relocated to a reservation on the Fresno River by the Mariposa Battalion and James Savage in March 1851.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Sargent |first=Shirley |date=1961 |title=Wawona's Yesterdays |url=https://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/wawonas_yesterdays/indians.html}}</ref> Settler [[Galen Clark]] discovered the [[Mariposa Grove]] of [[giant sequoia]] in Wawona in 1857. He had simple lodgings built, and roads to the area. In 1879, the [[Wawona Hotel]] was built to serve tourists visiting Mariposa Grove.<ref>{{cite book |title=Wawona Hotel Complex Cultural Landscape Report , Yosemite National Park |date=August 2012 |publisher=Mundus Bishop for National Park Service |pages=15}}</ref> As tourism increased, so did the number of trails and hotels developed by people intending to build on the trade.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Schaffer |first1=Jeffrey |title=Yosemite National Park: A complete hiker's guide |date=June 2006 |publisher=Wilderness Press |location=Berkley, CA|isbn=0899973833 |page=11 |edition=5 |url=https://www.google.com/books/edition/Yosemite_National_Park/Z4fSi0EjFHoC?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=Yosemite+more+hotels+as+tourism+increased&pg=PA11&printsec=frontcover |access-date=31 August 2021}}</ref>
The [[Wawona Tree]], also known as the Tunnel Tree, was a famous giant sequoia that stood in the Mariposa Grove. It was {{convert|234|ft|m}} tall, and was {{convert|90|ft|m|abbr=on}} in circumference. When a carriage-wide tunnel was cut through the tree in 1881, it became even more popular as a tourist photo attraction. Everything from horse-drawn carriages in the late 19th century, to automobiles in the first part of the 20th century, traveled the road which passed through that tree. The tree was permanently weakened by the tunnel, and the Wawona Tree fell in 1969 under a heavy load of snow. It was estimated to have been 2,100 years old.<ref>{{cite web |title=The Myth of the Tree You Can Drive Through |url=https://www.nps.gov/seki/faqtunnel.htm |website=nps.gov |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=26 August 2021}}</ref>
Yosemite's first concession was established in 1884 when John Degnan and his wife established a bakery and store.{{sfn|NPS|1989|p=58}} In 1916, the National Park Service granted a 20-year concession to the Desmond Park Service Company. It bought out or built hotels, stores, camps, a dairy, a garage, and other park services.{{sfn|Greene|1987|p=360}} The [[Hotel Del Portal]] was completed in 1908 by a subsidiary corporation of the [[Yosemite Valley Railroad]]. It was located at [[El Portal, California]] just outside of Yosemite.<ref>{{Cite book|title=Yosemite Valley Railroad|last=Radanovich|first=Leroy |publisher=Arcadia Publishing Incorporated|year= 2010 |url=https://www.google.com/books/edition/Yosemite_Valley_Railroad/0BqfELO5QsQC?hl=en&gbpv=0|page=|isbn=9781439640333|access-date=2021-12-27}}</ref> Desmond changed its name to the Yosemite National Park Company in December 1917 and was reorganized in 1920.{{sfn|Greene|1987|pp=362, 364}}
The Curry Company had been started in 1899 by David and Jennie Curry to provide concessions in the park. They also founded Camp Curry, formerly known as Half Dome Village, now restored back to [[Curry Village, California|Curry Village]].{{sfn|Wuerthner|1994|p=40}}
Administrators in the National Park Service felt that limiting the number of concessionaires in each national park would be more financially sound. The Curry Company and its rival, the Yosemite National Park Company, were forced to merge in 1925 to form the [[Yosemite Park & Curry Company]] (YP&CC).{{sfn|Greene|1987|p=387}} The company built the [[Ahwahnee Hotel]] in 1926–27.<ref>{{cite journal|author=Gene Rose |title=The Ahwahnee: Yosemite Grandeur |journal=Skiing Heritage Journal |url=https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_x1gEAAAAMBAJ|date=March 2003|publisher=International Skiing History Association|pages=[https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_x1gEAAAAMBAJ/page/n20 21]|issn=1082-2895}}</ref>
===Yosemite Grant===
[[File:Map of Rail and Stage Routes to the Yosemite 1885.jpg|thumb|left|Map of rail and stage routes to Yosemite in 1885]]
[[File:Eadweard Muybridge - Pi-Wi-Ack (Shower of Stars), Vernal Fall, 400 Feet, Valley of Yosemite - Google Art Project.jpg|thumb|right|A view of the park and [[Vernal Falls]], photographed by photographer [[Eadweard Muybridge]] in 1872.]]
Concerned by the effects of commercial interests, prominent citizens including Galen Clark and Senator [[John Conness]] advocated for protection of the area. A park bill was prepared with the assistance of the [[General Land Office]] in the [[United States Department of the Interior|Interior Department]].<ref>{{cite journal|title=Yosemite: The Story of an Idea |author=Huth, Hans |journal=Sierra Club Bulletin |publisher=Sierra Club |issue=33 |pages=63–76 |url=http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/yosemite_story_of_an_idea.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120508220101/http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/yosemite_story_of_an_idea.html |archive-date=May 8, 2012 |date=March 1948 |access-date=April 20, 2011 |url-status=dead }}</ref> The bill passed both houses of the [[38th United States Congress]], and was signed by [[President of the United States|President]] [[Abraham Lincoln]] on June 30, 1864, creating the Yosemite Grant.<ref name="Schaffer48">{{harvnb|Schaffer|1999|p=48}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|chapter-url=http://constitution.org/uslaw/sal/013_statutes_at_large.pdf|page=325|chapter=Thirty-Eighth Congress, Session I, Chap. 184 (June 30, 1864): An Act authorizing a Grant to the State of California of the "Yo-Semite Valley" and of the Land embracing the "Mariposa Big Tree Grove"|title=[[United States Statutes at Large|The Statutes At Large]], Treaties, and Proclamations of the United States of America from December 1863, to December 1865|editor=[[George P. Sanger|Sanger, George P.]]|volume=13|location=Boston|publisher=Little, Brown and Company|year=1866|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111116010746/http://constitution.org/uslaw/sal/013_statutes_at_large.pdf|archive-date=November 16, 2011}}</ref> This is the first instance of park land being set aside specifically for preservation and public use by action of the U.S. federal government, and set a precedent for the 1872 creation of [[Yellowstone National Park|Yellowstone]] as the first [[national park]].<ref name = "historyculture">{{cite web | title = History & Culture | publisher = United States National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/historyculture/index.htm | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref> Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove were ceded to [[California]] as a [[state park]], and a board of commissioners was proclaimed two years later.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.150.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=27539|title=Yosemite "State Park"|website=www.150.parks.ca.gov}}</ref>
Galen Clark was appointed by the commission as the Grant's first guardian, but neither Clark nor the commissioners had the authority to evict [[Homestead Act|homesteaders]] (which included Hutchings).<ref name="Schaffer48"/> The issue was not settled until 1872 when the homesteader land holdings were invalidated by the U.S. Supreme Court.<ref>''Hutchings v. Low'' {{ussc|82|77|1872}}</ref> Clark and the reigning commissioners were ousted in 1880, this dispute also reaching the Supreme Court in 1880.<ref>''Ashburner v. California'' {{ussc|103|575|1880}}</ref> The two Supreme Court decisions affecting management of the Yosemite Grant are considered important precedents in land management law.<ref>{{cite book |first=Alfred |last=Runte |year=1990 |title=Yosemite : The Embattled Wilderness |url=https://archive.org/details/yosemiteembattle00runt |url-access=registration |location=Lincoln |publisher=University of Nebraska Press |isbn=0803289413 |pages=34–35, 50}}</ref> Hutchings became the new park guardian.<ref name="Schaffer49"/>
Access to the park by tourists improved in the early years of the park, and conditions in the Valley were made more hospitable. Tourism significantly increased after the [[First Transcontinental Railroad]] was completed in 1869, but the long horseback ride to reach the area was a deterrent.<ref name="Schaffer48"/> Three [[stagecoach]] roads were built in the mid-1870s to provide better access for the growing number of visitors to Yosemite Valley.<ref>{{cite book| url=https://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/olmsted/report.html | title=Yosemite and the Mariposa Grove: A Preliminary Report |year=1865|first=Frederick|last=Law Olmsted}}</ref>
[[John Muir]] was a Scottish-born American naturalist and explorer. It was because of Muir that many National Parks were left untouched, such as Yosemite Valley National Park. One of the most significant camping trips Muir took was in 1903 with then president Theodore Roosevelt. This trip persuaded Roosevelt to return "Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove to federal protection as part of Yosemite National Park".<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.pbs.org/nationalparks/people/historical/muir/|work=The National Parks: America's Best Idea|title=People – John Muir |publisher=PBS}}</ref>
Muir wrote articles popularizing the area and increasing scientific interest in it. Muir was one of the first to theorize that the major landforms in Yosemite Valley were created by large alpine glaciers, bucking established scientists such as [[Josiah Whitney]], who regarded Muir as an amateur.<ref name="Schaffer49">{{harvnb|Schaffer|1999|p=49}}</ref> Muir wrote scientific papers on the area's biology. Landscape architect [[Frederick Law Olmsted]] emphasized the importance of conservation of Yosemite Valley.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Olmsted |first1=Frederick Law |title=Olmsted Report on Management of Yosemite, 1865 |url=https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/anps/anps_1b.htm |website=National Park Service |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=1 September 2021}}</ref>
===Increased protection efforts===
{{multiple image
| align = right
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| header =
| image1 = Galen Clark in the Big Tree Grove.jpeg
| width1 = 150
| alt1 =
| caption1 = Early settler, [[Galen Clark]]
| image2 = Muir and Roosevelt restored.jpg
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| caption2 = [[Theodore Roosevelt]] and [[John Muir]] on Glacier Point
}}
Overgrazing of meadows (especially by sheep), logging of giant sequoia, and other damage caused Muir to become an advocate for further protection. Muir convinced prominent guests of the importance of putting the area under federal protection; one such guest was [[Robert Underwood Johnson]], editor of ''[[Century Magazine]]''. Muir and Johnson lobbied Congress for the Act that created Yosemite National Park on October 1, 1890.<ref name="Schaffer50">{{harvnb|Schaffer|1999|p=50}}</ref> The State of California, however, retained control of Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove. Muir's writings raised awareness about the damage caused by sheep grazing, and he actively campaigned to virtually eliminate grazing from the Yosemite's high-country ecosystem.<ref>{{cite web |title=Yosemite |url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/historyculture/muir.htm |website=nps.gov |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=1 September 2021}}</ref>
The newly created national park came under the jurisdiction of the United States Army's Troop I of the [[4th Cavalry Regiment (United States)|4th Cavalry]] on May 19, 1891, which set up camp in Wawona with Captain [[Abram Wood|Abram Epperson Wood]] as acting superintendent.<ref name="Schaffer50"/> By the late 1890s, sheep grazing was no longer a problem, and the Army made other improvements. The cavalry could not intervene to ease the worsening condition of Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove. From 1899 to 1913, cavalry regiments of the Western Department, including the all Black [[9th Cavalry Regiment (United States)|9th Cavalry]] (known as the "Buffalo Soldiers") and the [[1st Cavalry Regiment (United States)|1st Cavalry]], stationed two troops at Yosemite.
[[File:View of Tutocanula Pass Yosemite California by Carleton Watkins.jpg|thumb|[[Bridalveil Fall]] and [[El Capitan]], by [[Carleton Watkins]] ({{circa|1880}})]]
Muir and his [[Sierra Club]] continued to lobby the government and influential people for the creation of a unified Yosemite National Park. In May 1903, President [[Theodore Roosevelt]] camped with Muir near [[Glacier Point]] for three days. On that trip, Muir convinced Roosevelt to take control of Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove away from California and return it to the federal government. In 1906, Roosevelt signed a bill that did precisely that.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.nps.gov/jomu/learn/historyculture/people.htm#onthisPage-2|title=John Muir and President Roosevelt|work=John Muir National Historic Site, California|publisher=National Park Service|access-date=2021-08-31}}</ref>
===National Park Service===
The [[National Park Service]] was formed in 1916, and Yosemite was transferred to that agency's jurisdiction. Tuolumne Meadows Lodge, [[Tioga Pass Road]], and campgrounds at Tenaya and Merced lakes were also completed in 1916.<ref name="Schaffer52">{{harvnb|Schaffer|1999|p=52}}</ref> Automobiles started to enter the park in ever-increasing numbers following the construction of all-weather highways to the park. The Yosemite Museum was founded in 1926 through the efforts of [[Ansel Franklin Hall]].{{sfn|NPS|1989|p=117}} In the 1920s, the museum featured Native Americans practicing traditional crafts, and many of the Southern Sierra Miwok continued to live in Yosemite Valley until they were completely evicted from Yosemite National Park in the 1960s.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.fresnobee.com/news/special-reports/yosemite-at-150/article19521750.html|title=American Indians share their Yosemite story}}</ref> Although the National Park Service helped create the Yosemite Museum which showcased some Indigenous presence at the time, its early actions and organizational values were detrimental to the Yosemite Natives and the Ahwahneechee.<ref name=":1" /> The National Park Service in the early 20th century criticized and even restricted the expression of Indigenous culture and behavior in Yosemite, for instance Park officials penalized Natives for playing games and drinking during the Indian Field Days of 1924.<ref name="Spence" /> The NPS had more direct and devastating impacts on the Yosemite Natives though. In 1929, Park Superintendent Charles G. Thomson concluded that the Indian village was aesthetically unpleasant and was limiting white settler development. Thomson eventually ordered the camp be burned down.<ref name=":1" /> In 1969, many Natives in the Indian village were forced to leave in search of work as a result of the decline in tourism. The NPS demolished those empty houses, evicted the remaining people from their homes, and destroyed the entire village.<ref name=":1" /> This was the last Indigenous settlement to exist within Yosemite's Valley and the National Park, effectively removing all the Ahwahneechee People and other Yosemite Natives from their traditional homelands.<ref name=":1" /><ref name="miwuk" />
In 1903, a dam in the northern portion of the park was proposed. Located in the [[Hetch Hetchy Valley]], its purpose was to provide water and [[hydroelectric power]] to [[San Francisco, California|San Francisco]]. Muir and the Sierra Club opposed the project, while others, including [[Gifford Pinchot]], supported it.<ref>{{cite journal |last=Moseley |first=W. G. |year=2009 |title=Beyond Knee-Jerk Environmental Thinking: Teaching Geographic Perspectives on Conservation, Preservation and the Hetch Hetchy Valley Controversy |journal=Journal of Geography in Higher Education |volume=33 |issue=3 |pages=433–51 |doi=10.1080/03098260902982492 |s2cid=143538071 }}</ref> In 1913, the U.S. Congress authorized the [[O'Shaughnessy Dam (California)|O'Shaughnessy Dam]] through passage of the [[Raker Act]].<ref name="Schaffer51">{{harvnb|Schaffer|1999|p=51}}</ref>
[[File:O'Shaughnessy Dam.jpg|thumb|left|[[O'Shaughnessy Dam (California)|O'Shaughnessy Dam]] in [[Hetch Hetchy]] Valley]]
In the late 1920s a [[Bids for Olympic Games#All-time Winter Olympics bids|bid]] for Yosemite for the [[1932 Winter Olympics]] was put forward. Ultimately, the 1932 Winter Olympics were awarded to [[Lake Placid, New York]].<ref name="olympics1932">{{cite web|url=http://www.destination360.com/north-america/us/california/badger-pass-ski-resort |title=Badger Pass Ski Resort –Badger Pass Yosemite |publisher=Destination360.com |access-date=April 1, 2012}}</ref> In 1937, conservationist [[Rosalie Edge]], head of the Emergency Conservation Committee (ECC), successfully lobbied Congress to purchase about 8,000 acres of old-growth sugar pines on the perimeter of Yosemite National Park that were to be logged.<ref>{{cite book |last=Furmansky |first=Dyana Z. |year=2009 |title=Rosalie Edge, Hawk of Mercy: The Activist Who Saved Nature from the Conservationists |url=https://archive.org/details/rosalieedgehawko00zasl |url-access=registration |publisher=University of Georgia Press |isbn=978-0820336763 |pages = 200–07}}</ref>
In 1984, preservationists persuaded Congress to designate {{convert|677600|acre}}, or about 89 percent of the park, as the Yosemite Wilderness—a highly protected [[wilderness area]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/legal/parklaws/1/laws1-volume1-appendix.pdf |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120203175920/http://www.nps.gov/legal/parklaws/1/laws1-volume1-appendix.pdf |archive-date=February 3, 2012 |title=California Wilderness Act of 1984 |author=98th U.S. Congress |year=1984 |access-date=May 8, 2010 |url-status=dead }}</ref> The Park Service has reduced artificial inducements to visit the park, such as the ''[[Yosemite Firefall|Firefall]]'', in which red-hot embers were pushed off a cliff near Glacier Point at night. [[Traffic congestion]] and parking in Yosemite Valley during the summer months has become a concern.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Sahagun |first1=Louis |title=Iconic Yosemite National Park is seeing more vehicles than ever clogging its roads |url=https://www.sentinelsource.com/news/environment/iconic-yosemite-national-park-is-seeing-more-vehicles-than-ever/article_05f3470f-4cef-57a3-bb4e-1426e7e9f02d.html |access-date=7 September 2021 |work=Los Angeles Times |date=26 September 2017}}</ref>
In 2016, [[The Trust for Public Land]] purchased Ackerson Meadow, a 400-acre tract on the western edge of Yosemite National Park, for $2.3 million in order to preserve habitat and protect the area from development. Ackerson Meadow was originally included in the proposed 1890 park boundary but never acquired by the federal government. The purchase and donation of the meadow was made possible through a cooperative effort by the Trust for Public Land, the National Park Service, and Yosemite Conservancy. On September 7, 2016, the National Park Service accepted the donation of the land, making the meadow the largest addition to Yosemite since 1949.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/news/ackersonaddition.htm|title=Ackerson Meadow Gifted to Yosemite National Park|author=National Park Service|access-date=September 8, 2016}}</ref>
==Geography==
{{Main|Geography of the Yosemite area}}
[[File:Yosemite National Park Map.png|thumb|upright|Park map]]
Yosemite National Park is located in the central Sierra Nevada of California. Three wilderness areas are adjacent to Yosemite: the [[Ansel Adams Wilderness]] to the southeast, the [[Hoover Wilderness]] to the northeast, and the [[Emigrant Wilderness]] to the north.
The {{convert|1189|mi2|km2|abbr=on}} park is roughly the size of the U.S. state of [[Rhode Island]] and contains thousands of lakes and ponds, {{convert|1600|mi|km}} of streams, {{convert|800|mi|km}} of hiking trails, and {{convert|350|mi|km}} of roads.<ref name="nature">{{cite web | title =Nature & Science | publisher =United States National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/naturescience/index.htm | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref> Two federally designated [[Wild and Scenic River]]s, the [[Merced River|Merced]] and the Tuolumne, begin within Yosemite's borders and flow westward through the Sierra foothills, into the [[California Central Valley|Central Valley of California]]. On average, about 4 million people visit the park each year,<ref name="visits"/> with most visitor use concentrated in the seven-square-mile (18 km<sup>2</sup>) area of [[Yosemite Valley]].<ref name="nature"/>
===Rocks and erosion===
[[File:Yosemite Valley - El Capitan from Central Pillar of Frenzy - 2.JPG|thumb|left|upright=1.4|[[El Capitan]], a granite monolith on Yosemite Valley's northern escarpment]]
Almost all of the landforms in the Yosemite area are cut from the granitic rock of the [[Sierra Nevada Batholith]] (a [[batholith]] is a large mass of intrusive [[igneous rock]] that formed deep below the surface).<ref name="GeologyNP329">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=329}}</ref> About five percent of the park's landforms (mostly in its eastern margin near [[Mount Dana]]) are [[metamorphic rock|metamorphosed]] [[volcanic rock|volcanic]] and [[sedimentary rock]]s.<ref name="landforms">{{cite web | publisher = United States National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/geo_landforms.htm | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20090514004436/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/geo_landforms.htm | archive-date = May 14, 2009 | title = Geology: The Making of the Landscape | date = December 22, 2004 | access-date =January 27, 2007 }}</ref> These rocks are called ''[[roof pendants]]'' because they were once the roof of the underlying granitic rock.<ref>{{cite web|publisher=United States Geological Survey |url=http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/geology/publications/pp/160/sec2a.htm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121022231626/http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/geology/publications/pp/160/sec2a.htm |archive-date=October 22, 2012 |title=Geological Survey Professional Paper 160: Geologic History of the Yosemite Valley – The Sierra Block |date=November 28, 2006 |access-date=January 27, 2007 |url-status=dead }}</ref>
[[Erosion]] acting upon different types of uplift-created joint and fracture systems is responsible for creating the valleys, canyons, [[dome (geology)|domes]], and other features we see today. These joints and fracture systems do not move, and are therefore not [[fault (geology)|faults]].<ref name="GeologyNP331">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=331}}</ref> Spacing between joints is controlled by the amount of [[silica]] in the granite and [[granodiorite]] rocks; more silica tends to create a more resistant rock, resulting in larger spaces between joints and fractures.<ref name="GeologyUSP220">{{harvnb|Kiver|Harris|1999|p=220}}</ref>
Pillars and columns, such as [[Washington Column (Yosemite)|Washington Column]] and [[Lost Arrow Spire|Lost Arrow]], are created by cross joints. Erosion acting on master joints is responsible for creating valleys and later canyons.<ref name="GeologyUSP220"/> The single most erosive force over the last few million years has been large alpine glaciers, which have turned the previously V-shaped river-cut valleys into U-shaped glacial-cut canyons (such as Yosemite Valley and Hetch Hetchy Valley). [[Exfoliation (geology)|Exfoliation]] (caused by the tendency of [[crystal]]s in [[pluton]]ic rocks to expand at the surface) acting on granitic rock with widely spaced joints is responsible for creating domes such as [[Half Dome]] and [[North Dome]] and inset arches like Royal Arches.<ref name="GeologyNP332"/>
===Popular features===
[[File:The spiny crown of Cathedral Peak, Yosemite National Park, California.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Cathedral Peak (California)|Cathedral Peak]]]]
Yosemite Valley represents only one percent of the park area, but this is where most visitors arrive and stay. The [[Tunnel View]] is the first view of the Valley for many visitors and is extensively photographed. [[El Capitan]], a prominent granite cliff that looms over Yosemite Valley, is one of the most popular rock climbing destinations in the world because of its diverse range of climbing routes in addition to its year-round accessibility. [[Granite dome]]s such as [[Sentinel Dome]] and [[Half Dome]] rise {{convert|3000|and|4800|ft|m}}, respectively, above the valley floor. The park contains dozens of other [[Granite Domes of Yosemite National Park|granite domes]].<ref>{{cite news |last1=Cross |first1=Robert |title=Mountain majesty Yosemite: The California national park is home to some of the country's most scenic natural wonders. |url=https://www.baltimoresun.com/news/bs-xpm-1996-05-26-1996147114-story.html |access-date=7 September 2021 |work=The Baltimore Sun |date=26 May 1996}}</ref>
The high country of Yosemite contains beautiful areas such as [[Tuolumne Meadows]], [[Dana Meadows (California)|Dana Meadows]], the [[Clark Range (California)|Clark Range]], the [[Cathedral Range]], and the [[Kuna Crest]]. The Sierra crest and the [[Pacific Crest Trail]] run through Yosemite, with peaks of red metamorphic rock, such as Mount Dana and [[Mount Gibbs]], and granite peaks, such as [[Mount Conness]]. [[Mount Lyell (California)|Mount Lyell]] is the highest point in the park, standing at {{convert|13,120|ft|m}}. The [[Lyell Glacier]] is the largest glacier in Yosemite National Park and is one of the few remaining in the Sierra Nevada today.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Yosemite National Park's Largest Glacier Stagnant – Yosemite National Park (U.S. National Park Service)|url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/news/lyellglacier.htm|access-date=2021-05-06|website=www.nps.gov|language=en}}</ref>
The park has three groves of ancient giant sequoia (''Sequoiadendron giganteum'') trees; the [[Mariposa Grove]] (200 trees), the [[Tuolumne Grove]] (25 trees), and the [[Merced Grove]] (20 trees).<ref name="GeologyNP340"/> This species grows larger in volume than any other and is one of the tallest and longest-lived.<ref name="Kiver227">{{harvnb|Kiver|Harris|1999|p=227}}</ref>
===Water and ice===
[[File:Valley View Yosemite August 2013 002.jpg|thumb|left|The [[Merced River]] flowing through [[Yosemite Valley]], a [[U-shaped valley]]]]
The Tuolumne and Merced River systems originate along the crest of the [[Sierra Nevada (U.S.)|Sierra Nevada]] in the park and have carved river canyons {{convert|3000|to|4000|ft|m}} deep. The Tuolumne River drains the entire northern portion of the park, an area of approximately {{convert|680|mi2|km2}}. The Merced River begins in the park's southern peaks, primarily the Cathedral and Clark Ranges, and drains an area of approximately {{convert|511|mi2|km2}}.<ref name = "water overview">{{cite web | title = Water Overview | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/water.htm | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070107180730/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/water.htm|archive-date=January 7, 2007 | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | date = December 22, 2004 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref>
Hydrologic processes, including [[glaciation]], flooding, and fluvial geomorphic response, have been fundamental in creating landforms in the park.<ref name = "water overview"/> The park also contains approximately 3,200 lakes (greater than 100 m<sup>2</sup>), two [[reservoir (water)|reservoirs]], and {{convert|1700|mi|km}} of streams, all of which help form these two large [[Drainage basin|watersheds]].<ref name = "hydrology">{{cite web | title = Hydrology and Watersheds | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wtr_hydrology.htm | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20100728075552/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wtr_hydrology.htm | archive-date = July 28, 2010 | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | date = December 22, 2004 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref> [[Wetland]]s in Yosemite occur in valley bottoms throughout the park, and are often hydrologically linked to nearby lakes and rivers through seasonal flooding and groundwater movement. Meadow habitats, distributed at elevations from {{convert|3000|to|11000|ft|m}} in the park, are generally wetlands, as are the [[riparian]] habitats found on the banks of Yosemite's numerous streams and rivers.<ref name = "wetland vegetation">{{cite web | title = Wetland Vegetation | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/veg_wetlands.htm | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20100419080619/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/veg_wetlands.htm | archive-date = April 19, 2010 | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | date = December 22, 2004 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref>
[[File:Bridalveil Fall and valley.JPG|thumb|[[Bridalveil Fall]] flows from a U-shaped hanging valley that was created by a tributary glacier.]]
Yosemite is famous for its [[List of waterfalls in Yosemite National Park|high concentration of waterfalls]] in a small area. Numerous sheer drops, glacial steps and [[hanging valley]]s in the park provide many places for waterfalls to exist, especially during April, May, and June (the snowmelt season). Located in Yosemite Valley, the [[Yosemite Falls]] is the highest in North America at {{convert|2425|ft|m}}. Also in Yosemite Valley is the much lower volume [[Ribbon Fall]]s, which has the highest single vertical drop, {{convert|1612|ft|m}}.<ref name="Kiver227"/> Perhaps the most prominent of the Yosemite Valley waterfalls is [[Bridalveil Fall (Yosemite)|Bridalveil Fall]], which is the waterfall seen from the Tunnel View viewpoint at the east end of the Wawona Tunnel. Wapama Falls in Hetch Hetchy Valley is another notable waterfall. Hundreds of [[ephemeral]] waterfalls can become active in the park after heavy rains or melting snowpack.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Krieger |first1=Lisa |title=Waterfalls are roaring this spring at Yosemite |url=https://www.mercurynews.com/2019/05/17/waterfalls-are-roaring-this-spring-at-yosemite-and-here-are-the-best-right-now/ |access-date=9 September 2021 |work=San Jose Mercury News |date=17 May 2019}}</ref>
All glaciers in the park are relatively small glaciers that occupy areas that are in almost permanent shade, such as north- and northeast-facing [[cirque (landform)|cirques]]. [[Lyell Glacier]] is the largest glacier in Yosemite (the Palisades Glaciers are the largest in the Sierra Nevada) and covers {{convert|160|acre}}.<ref name="GeologyUSP228">{{harvnb|Kiver|Harris|1999|p=228}}</ref> None of the Yosemite glaciers are a remnant of the [[Last Glacial Period|Ice Age]] alpine glaciers responsible for sculpting the Yosemite landscape. Instead, they were formed during one of the [[neoglacial]] episodes that have occurred since the thawing of the Ice Age (such as the [[Little Ice Age]]).<ref name="GeologyNP340">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=340}}</ref> Many Yosemite glaciers, such as the Black Mountain Glacier that was discovered in 1871 and gone by the mid-1980s, have disappeared.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Sahagun |first1=Louis |title=Yosemite's largest ice mass is melting fast |url=https://www.latimes.com/local/la-xpm-2013-oct-01-la-me-glaciers-20131002-story.html |access-date=14 September 2021 |work=Los Angeles Times |date=1 October 2013}}</ref> Yosemite's final two glaciers – the Lyell and Maclure glaciers – have receded over the last 100 years and are expected by scientists to eventually disappear as a result of natural melting and climate change.<ref>{{cite web |title=Yosemite – Nature – Geology – Glaciers |url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/nature/glaciers.htm |website=nps.gov |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=14 September 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Liberatore |title=Glaciers in Yosemite |url=https://www.myyosemitepark.com/things-to-do/natural-wonders/mountains-landscapes/when-glaciers-ruled/ |access-date=14 September 2021 |publisher=Yosemite National Park trips |date=15 March 2013}}</ref>
===Climate===
[[File:El Capitan at fall.jpg|thumb|left|upright|Yosemite in [[autumn]]]]
Yosemite has a [[Mediterranean climate]] ([[Köppen climate classification]] ''Csa''), meaning most precipitation falls during the mild winter, and the other seasons are nearly dry (less than three percent of precipitation falls during the long, hot summers). Because of [[orographic lift]], precipitation increases with elevation up to {{convert|8000|ft|m}} where it slowly decreases to the crest. Precipitation amounts vary from {{convert|36|in|mm}} at {{convert|4000|ft|m}} elevation to {{convert|50|in|mm}} at {{convert|8600|ft|m}}. Snow does not typically persist on the ground until November in the high country. It accumulates all winter and into March or early April.<ref name="climate">{{cite web | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wtr_climate.htm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070101113353/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wtr_climate.htm|archive-date=January 1, 2007 | title = Climate | date = December 22, 2004 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref>
Mean daily temperatures range from {{convert|25|°F|0}} to {{convert|53|°F|0}} at Tuolumne Meadows at {{convert|8600|ft|m}}. At the Wawona Entrance (elevation {{convert|5130|ft|m|disp=or}}), mean daily temperature ranges from {{convert|36|to|67|°F|°C}}. At the lower elevations below {{convert|5000|ft|m}}, temperatures are hotter; the mean daily high temperature at Yosemite Valley (elevation {{convert|3966|ft|m|disp=or}}) varies from {{convert|46|to|90|°F|°C}}. At elevations above {{convert|8000|ft|m}}, the hot, dry summer temperatures are moderated by frequent summer thunderstorms, along with snow that can persist into July. The combination of dry vegetation, low relative humidity, and thunderstorms results in frequent lightning-caused [[wildfire|fires]] as well.<ref name="climate"/>
At the park headquarters, with an elevation of {{convert|4018|ft}}, January averages {{convert|38.0|°F|1}}, while July averages {{convert|73.3|°F|1}}, though in summer the nights are much cooler than the hot days. There are an average of 45.5 days with highs of {{convert|90|°F|0}} or higher and an average of 105.6 nights with freezing temperatures. Freezing temperatures have been recorded in every month of the year. The record high temperature was {{convert|112|°F|0}} on July 22 and July 24, 1915, while the record low temperature was {{convert|-7|°F|0}} on January 1, 2009. Average annual precipitation is nearly {{convert|37|in|0}}, falling on 67 days. The wettest year was 1983 with {{convert|66.06|in|mm}} and the driest year was 1976 with {{convert|14.84|in|mm}}. The most precipitation in one month was {{convert|29.61|in|mm}} in December 1955 and the most in one day was {{convert|6.92|in|mm}} on December 23, 1955. Average annual snowfall is {{convert|39.4|in|m}}. The snowiest winter was 1948–1949 with {{convert|176.5|in|m}}. The most snow in one month was {{convert|175.0|in|m}} in January 1993.
{{Weather box
|location = Yosemite Park Headquarters, California, 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1905–present
|single line = Y
|collapsed = Y
| Jan high F = 47.5
| Feb high F = 51.2
| Mar high F = 56.7
| Apr high F = 63.1
| May high F = 70.5
| Jun high F = 80.5
| Jul high F = 89.2
| Aug high F = 89.0
| Sep high F = 83.0
| Oct high F = 70.9
| Nov high F = 56.0
| Dec high F = 45.9
|year high F = 67.0
|Jan mean F = 38.0
|Feb mean F = 40.7
|Mar mean F = 45.1
|Apr mean F = 50.4
|May mean F = 57.5
|Jun mean F = 65.8
|Jul mean F = 73.3
|Aug mean F = 72.9
|Sep mean F = 67.2
|Oct mean F = 56.1
|Nov mean F = 44.3
|Dec mean F = 36.8
|year mean F = 54.0
| Jan low F = 28.5
| Feb low F = 30.2
| Mar low F = 33.5
| Apr low F = 37.6
| May low F = 44.5
| Jun low F = 51.0
| Jul low F = 57.4
| Aug low F = 56.8
| Sep low F = 51.4
| Oct low F = 41.3
| Nov low F = 32.5
| Dec low F = 27.8
|year low F = 41.0
|Jan record high F = 72
|Feb record high F = 82
|Mar record high F = 90
|Apr record high F = 96
|May record high F = 99
|Jun record high F = 103
|Jul record high F = 112
|Aug record high F = 110
|Sep record high F = 108
|Oct record high F = 98
|Nov record high F = 86
|Dec record high F = 73
|year record high F =
|Jan record low F = -7
|Feb record low F = 1
|Mar record low F = 9
|Apr record low F = 12
|May record low F = 15
|Jun record low F = 22
|Jul record low F = 32
|Aug record low F = 32
|Sep record low F = 24
|Oct record low F = 19
|Nov record low F = 10
|Dec record low F = -1
|year record low F =
|precipitation colour = green
| Jan precipitation inch = 6.98
| Feb precipitation inch = 6.49
| Mar precipitation inch = 5.47
| Apr precipitation inch = 3.17
| May precipitation inch = 1.92
| Jun precipitation inch = 0.46
| Jul precipitation inch = 0.29
| Aug precipitation inch = 0.16
| Sep precipitation inch = 0.40
| Oct precipitation inch = 1.56
| Nov precipitation inch = 4.05
| Dec precipitation inch = 5.60
|year precipitation inch = 36.55
| unit precipitation days = 0.01 in
| Jan precipitation days = 8.9
| Feb precipitation days = 9.0
| Mar precipitation days = 11.0
| Apr precipitation days = 7.2
| May precipitation days = 6.4
| Jun precipitation days = 2.2
| Jul precipitation days = 1.1
| Aug precipitation days = 0.9
| Sep precipitation days = 2.0
| Oct precipitation days = 3.5
| Nov precipitation days = 5.9
| Dec precipitation days = 8.5
| year precipitation days = 66.6
|Jan snow inch = 17.7
|Feb snow inch = 4.2
|Mar snow inch = 5.7
|Apr snow inch = 0.9
|May snow inch = 0.0
|Jun snow inch = 0.0
|Jul snow inch = 0.0
|Aug snow inch = 0.0
|Sep snow inch = 0.0
|Oct snow inch = 0.0
|Nov snow inch = 3.8
|Dec snow inch = 7.1
|year snow inch =
|unit snow days = 0.1 in
|Jan snow days = 1.9
|Feb snow days = 1.2
|Mar snow days = 1.6
|Apr snow days = 0.6
|May snow days = 0.0
|Jun snow days = 0.0
|Jul snow days = 0.0
|Aug snow days = 0.0
|Sep snow days = 0.0
|Oct snow days = 0.0
|Nov snow days = 0.6
|Dec snow days = 2.1
|year snow days = 7.8
|source 1 = NOAA<ref>{{cite web
| url = https://w2.weather.gov/climate/xmacis.php?wfo=hnx
| title = NOWData – NOAA Online Weather Data
| publisher = [[National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration]]
| access-date = June 8, 2021
}}</ref><ref>{{cite web
| url = https://www.ncei.noaa.gov/access/services/data/v1?dataset=normals-monthly-1991-2020&startDate=0001-01-01&endDate=9996-12-31&stations=USC00049855&format=pdf
| title = Summary of Monthly Normals 1991–2020
| publisher = [[National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration]]
| access-date = June 8, 2021
}}</ref> }}
{|style="width:100%;text-align:center;line-height:1.2em;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto" class="wikitable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
|-
!Colspan=14|Climate data for Yosemite National Park
|-
!Month
!Jan
!Feb
!Mar
!Apr
!May
!Jun
!Jul
!Aug
!Sep
!Oct
!Nov
!Dec
!style="border-left-width:medium"|Year
|-
!Mean daily daylight hours
|style="background:#F0F011;color:#000000;"|10.0
|style="background:#F7F722;color:#000000;"|11.0
|style="background:#FFFF33;color:#000000;"|12.0
|style="background:#FFFF44;color:#000000;"|13.0
|style="background:#FFFF55;color:#000000;"|14.0
|style="background:#FFFF66;color:#000000;"|15.0
|style="background:#FFFF55;color:#000000;"|14.0
|style="background:#FFFF55;color:#000000;"|14.0
|style="background:#FFFF33;color:#000000;"|12.0
|style="background:#F7F722;color:#000000;"|11.0
|style="background:#F0F011;color:#000000;"|10.0
|style="background:#F0F011;color:#000000;"|10.0
|style="background:#FFFF35;color:#000000;border-left-width:medium"|12.2
|-
!Average [[Ultraviolet index]]
|style="background:#289500;color:#000000;"|2
|style="background:#f7e400;color:#000000;"|4
|style="background:#f85900;color:#000000;"|6
|style="background:#f85900;color:#000000;"|7
|style="background:#d8001d;color:#000000;"|9
|style="background:#d8001d;color:#000000;"|10
|style="background:#6b49c8;color:#000000;"|11
|style="background:#d8001d;color:#000000;"|10
|style="background:#d8001d;color:#000000;"|8
|style="background:#f7e400;color:#000000;"|5
|style="background:#f7e400;color:#000000;"|3
|style="background:#289500;color:#000000;"|2
|style="background:#f85900;color:#000000;border-left-width:medium"|6.4
|-
!Colspan=14 style="background:#f8f9fa;font-weight:normal;font-size:95%;"|Source: Weather Atlas<ref name="Weather Atlas">{{cite web |url=https://www.weather-us.com/en/california-usa/yosemite-national-park-climate |title=Yosemite National Park, California, USA – Monthly weather forecast and Climate data |publisher=Weather Atlas |access-date=26 January 2019 }}</ref>
|}
{{Clear}}
==Geology==
{{Main|Geology of the Yosemite area}}
===Tectonic and volcanic activity===
[[File:Map of Yosemite National Park.svg|thumb|Generalized geologic map of the Yosemite area (based on a [[United States Geological Survey|USGS]] image)]]
The area of the park was astride a [[passive continental margin]] during the [[Precambrian]] and early [[Paleozoic]].<ref name="GeologyNP328"/> Sediment was derived from continental sources and was deposited in shallow water. These rocks have since been deformed and metamorphosed.<ref>{{cite journal|title=Review of Late Jurassic-early Miocene sedimentationand plate-tectonic evolution of northern California: illuminatingexample of an accretionary margin|first=WG|last=Ernst|journal=Chin. J. Geochem.|year=2015|volume=34|issue=2|pages=123–42|doi=10.1007/s11631-015-0042-x|s2cid=55662231|url=http://english.gyig.cas.cn/pu/papers_CJG/201505/P020150515379493168537.pdf}}</ref><ref>{{cite conference|title=Paleotectonic and paleogeographic significance of the Calaveras Complex, western Sierra Nevada, California|last1=Schweickert|first1=Richard A|last2=Saleeby|first2=Jason B|last3=Tobisch|first3=Othmar T|last4=Wright|first4=William H., III|year=1977|conference=Paleozoic paleogeography of the western United States : Pacific Coast Paleogeography Symposium I|publisher=Society of Economic Paleontologists and Mineralogists|location=Los Angeles, California|pages=381–94|url=https://authors.library.caltech.edu/53867/}}</ref>
Heat generated from the [[Farallon Plate]] [[subduction|subducting]] below the [[North American Plate]] led to the creation of an [[island arc]] of volcanoes on the west coast of proto-North America between the late [[Devonian]] and [[Permian]] periods.<ref name="GeologyNP328">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=328}}</ref> Material accreted onto the western edge of North America, and mountains were raised to the east in Nevada.<ref>{{cite web|title=Yosemite National Park Geologic Resources Inventory Report|url=http://npshistory.com/publications/yose/nrr-2012-560.pdf|publisher=National Park Service|id=Natural Resource Report NPS/NRSS/GRD/NRR—2012/560|pages=43–44}}</ref>
The first phase of regional [[intrusion (geology)|plutonism]] started 210 million years ago in the late Triassic and continued throughout the Jurassic to about 150 million years before present ([[Before Present|BP]]).<ref name="GeologyNP329"/> Around the same time, the [[Nevadan orogeny]] built the Nevadan mountain range (also called the Ancestral Sierra Nevada) to a height of {{convert|15000|ft|m}}. This was directly part of the creation of the Sierra Nevada Batholith, and the resulting rocks were mostly granitic in composition and emplaced about {{convert|6|mi|km}} below the surface.<ref name="GeologyNP337">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=337}}</ref> The second major pluton emplacement phase lasted from about 120 million to 80 million years ago during the [[Cretaceous]].<ref name="GeologyNP329"/> This was part of the [[Sevier orogeny]].<ref>{{Cite journal|last1=Yonkee|first1=W. Adolph|last2=Weil|first2=Arlo Brandon|date=2015-11-01|title=Tectonic evolution of the Sevier and Laramide belts within the North American Cordillera orogenic system|journal=Earth-Science Reviews|language=en|volume=150|pages=531–93|doi=10.1016/j.earscirev.2015.08.001|bibcode=2015ESRv..150..531Y|issn=0012-8252|doi-access=free}}</ref>
Starting 20 million years ago (in the [[Cenozoic]]) and lasting until 5 million years ago, a now-extinct extension of [[Cascade Range]] volcanoes erupted, bringing large amounts of igneous material in the area. These igneous deposits blanketed the region north of the Yosemite region. Volcanic activity persisted past 5 million years BP east of the current park borders in the Mono Lake and [[Long Valley Caldera|Long Valley]] areas.<ref>{{cite book|title = Geology of the Sierra Nevada|last = Hill|first = Mary|location = Berkeley, California|publisher = University of California Press|year = 2006|page=270}}</ref>
===Uplift and erosion===
[[File:Half Dome from Glacier Point, Yosemite NP - Diliff.jpg|thumb|[[Exfoliation joint]]s cause erosion in granitic rocks, creating many [[Granite dome|domes]] including [[Half Dome]].]]
Starting 10 million years ago, vertical movement along the Sierra fault started to uplift the Sierra Nevada. Subsequent tilting of the Sierra block and the resulting accelerated uplift of the Sierra Nevada increased the [[gradient]] of western-flowing streams.<ref name="GeologyNP339">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=339}}</ref> The streams consequently ran faster and thus cut their valleys more quickly. Additional uplift occurred when major faults developed to the east, especially the creation of [[Owens Valley]] from [[Basin and Range Province|Basin and Range]]-associated extensional forces. Uplift of the Sierra accelerated again about two million years ago during the [[Pleistocene]].<ref>{{cite book |last1=Konigsmark |first1=Ted |title=Geologic Trips, Sierra Nevada |year=2002 |publisher=GeoPress |isbn=0966131657 |page=234 |url=http://www.geologictrips.com/sn/snttyv.pdf |access-date=22 September 2021}}</ref>
The uplifting and increased erosion exposed granitic rocks in the area to surface pressures, resulting in exfoliation (responsible for the rounded shape of the many domes in the park) and mass wasting following the numerous fracture joint planes (cracks; especially vertical ones) in the now solidified plutons.<ref name="GeologyNP332">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=332}}</ref> Pleistocene glaciers further accelerated this process and the larger ones transported the resulting [[scree|talus]] and [[till]] from valley floors.{{citation needed|date=September 2020}}
Numerous vertical joint planes controlled where and how fast erosion took place. Most of these long, linear and very deep cracks trend northeast or northwest and form parallel, often regularly spaced sets. They were created by uplift-associated pressure release and by the unloading of overlying rock via erosion.{{citation needed|date=September 2020}}
===Sculpting by glaciers===
[[File:Glacially polished granite.jpg|thumbnail|Glacially polished granite [[cirque]] in upper [[Tenaya Canyon]]]]
A series of glaciations further modified the region starting about 2 to 3 million years ago and ending sometime around 10,000 BP. At least four major glaciations have occurred in the Sierra Nevada, locally called the Sherwin (also called the pre-Tahoe), Tahoe, Tenaya, and Tioga.<ref name="GeologyNP339"/> The Sherwin glaciers were the largest, filling Yosemite and other valleys, while later stages produced much smaller glaciers. A Sherwin-age glacier was almost surely responsible for the major excavation and shaping of Yosemite Valley and other canyons in the area.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Volcanoes of the Eastern Sierra Nevada|url=https://sierra.sitehost.iu.edu/papers/2012/klapperich.html|access-date=2021-06-28|website=sierra.sitehost.iu.edu}}</ref>
Glacial systems reached depths of up to {{convert|4000|ft|m}} and left their marks in the Yosemite area. The longest glacier in the Yosemite area ran down the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River for {{convert|60|mi|km}}, passing well beyond Hetch Hetchy Valley. Merced Glacier flowed out of Yosemite Valley and into the Merced River Gorge. Lee Vining Glacier carved Lee Vining Canyon and emptied into Lake Russel (the much-enlarged ice age version of Mono Lake). Only the highest peaks, such as Mount Dana and Mount Conness, were not covered by glaciers. Retreating glaciers often left recessional [[moraine]]s that impounded lakes such as the {{convert|5.5|mi|km|0}} long Lake Yosemite (a shallow lake that periodically covered much of the floor of Yosemite Valley).<ref name="GeologyNP333">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=333}}</ref>
==Ecology==
{{Further|Ecology of the Sierra Nevada|List of plants of the Sierra Nevada (U.S.)}}
===Habitats===
[[File:Mule deer in Yosemite Valley.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Mule deer]] in Yosemite Valley]]
The park has an elevation range from {{convert|2127|to|13114|ft|m}} and contains five major [[life zone|vegetation zones]]: [[chaparral]] and [[oak]] woodland, [[Sierra Nevada lower montane forest|lower montane forest]], upper [[Montane ecosystems#Montane forests|montane forest]], [[Sierra Nevada subalpine zone|subalpine zone]], and [[alpine tundra|alpine]]. Of California's 7,000 plant species, approximately 50 percent occur in the Sierra Nevada and more than 20 percent are within Yosemite. The park contains suitable habitat for more than 160 rare plants, with rare local [[geology|geologic]] formations and unique [[soil]]s characterizing the restricted ranges many of these plants occupy.<ref name="naturehistory" />
With its scrubby sun-baked [[chaparral]], stately groves of pine, fir, and sequoia, and expanses of alpine woodlands and meadows, Yosemite National Park preserves a Sierra Nevada landscape as it prevailed before Euro-American settlement.<ref name="snepLateSuccessional">{{Cite book
| first1 = Jerry, F
| last1 = Franklin
| first2 = Jo Ann
| last2 = Fites-Kaufmann
| chapter = 21: Assessment of Late-Successional Forests of the Sierra Nevada
| year = 1996
| pages = 627–71
| title = Sierra Nevada Ecosystem Project. Final Report to Congress. Status of the Sierra Nevada Volume II: Assessments and Scientific Basis for Management Options
| url = http://pubs.usgs.gov/dds/dds-43/VOL_II/VII_C21.PDF | isbn=1887673016}}</ref> In contrast to surrounding lands, which have been significantly altered by logging, the park still contains some {{convert|225510|acre}} of [[old-growth forest]].<ref name="1993OldGrowthEstimates">{{Cite journal
| last1 = Bolsinger | first1 = Charles L.
| last2 = Waddell | first2 = Karen L.
| year = 1993
| title = Area of old-growth forests in California, Oregon, and Washington
| url = http://www.fs.fed.us/pnw/pubs/pnw_rb197.pdf
| publisher = [[United States Forest Service]], Pacific Northwest Research Station
| journal = Resource Bulletin | issue=197 |id=PNW-RB-197
}}</ref> Taken together, the park's varied [[habitat (ecology)|habitats]] support over 250 species of [[vertebrate]]s, which include fish, amphibians, reptiles, birds, and mammals.<ref name="wildlife">{{NPS| title = Wildlife Overview | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wildlife.htm | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070127153544/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wildlife.htm|archive-date=January 27, 2007 | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite Park Service | date = December 22, 2004 }}</ref>
Much of Yosemite's western boundary has habitats dominated by [[mixed coniferous forest]]s of [[ponderosa pine]], [[sugar pine]], [[incense cedar]], [[white fir]], [[Douglas fir]], and a few stands of giant sequoia, interspersed by areas of [[California black oak|black oak]] and [[Live oak|canyon live oak]]. A relatively high diversity of wildlife species is supported by these habitats, because of relatively mild, lower-elevation climate and the mixture of habitat types and plant species. Wildlife species typically found in these habitats include [[American black bear|black bear]], [[coyote]], [[raccoon]], [[Kingsnake|mountain kingsnake]], [[Gilbert's skink]], [[white-headed woodpecker]], [[bobcat]], [[North American river otter|river otter]], [[gray fox]], [[red fox]], [[brown creeper]], two species of skunk, [[North American cougar|cougar]], [[spotted owl]], and a wide variety of bat species.<ref name="wildlife"/>
Going higher in elevation, the coniferous forests become purer stands of [[Fir|red fir]], [[western white pine]], [[Jeffrey pine]], [[lodgepole pine]], and the occasional [[foxtail pine]]. Fewer wildlife species tend to be found in these habitats, because of their higher elevation and lower complexity. Species likely to be found include [[golden-mantled ground squirrel]], [[chickaree]], [[Fisher (animal)|fisher]], [[Steller's jay]], [[hermit thrush]], and [[northern goshawk]]. Reptiles are not common, but include [[rubber boa]], [[western fence lizard]], and [[northern alligator lizard]].<ref name = "wildlife"/>
[[File:Marmota flaviventris (Yellow Bellied Marmot), Yosemite NP - Diliff.jpg|thumb|left|[[Yellow-bellied marmot|Marmot]] in [[Tuolumne Meadows]]]]
As the landscape rises, trees become smaller and more sparse, with stands broken by areas of exposed granite. These include lodgepole pine, [[whitebark pine]], and [[mountain hemlock]] that, at highest elevations, give way to vast expanses of granite as treeline is reached. The climate in these habitats is harsh and the growing season is short, but species such as [[American pika|pika]], [[yellow-bellied marmot]], white-tailed [[jackrabbit]], [[Clark's nutcracker]], and [[black rosy finch]] are adapted to these conditions. Also, the treeless alpine habitats are the areas favored by [[Sierra Nevada bighorn sheep]]. This species, however, is now found in the Yosemite area only around Tioga Pass, where a small, reintroduced population exists.<ref name = "wildlife"/>
At a variety of elevations, meadows provide important, productive habitat for wildlife. Animals come to feed on the green [[Poaceae|grasses]] and use the flowing and standing water found in many meadows. Predators, in turn, are attracted to these areas. The interface between meadow and forest is also favored by many animal species because of the proximity of open areas for foraging and cover for protection. Species that are highly dependent upon meadow habitat include [[great grey owl]], [[willow flycatcher]], [[Yosemite toad]], and [[mountain beaver]].<ref name = "wildlife"/>
===Management issues===
[[File:YosemiteBlackBearTagged wb.jpg|thumb|A [[American black bear|black bear]] with an ear tag in Yosemite Valley]]
The black bears of Yosemite were once famous for breaking into parked cars to steal food. They were also an encouraged tourist sight for many years at the park's garbage dumps, where bears congregated to eat park visitors' garbage and tourists gathered to photograph the bears. Increasing encounters between bears and humans and increasing damage to property led to an aggressive campaign to discourage bears from relying on human food or interacting with people and their property. The open-air dumps were closed; all trash receptacles were replaced with [[bear-resistant food storage container|bear-proof]] receptacles; all campgrounds were equipped with bear-proof food lockers so that people would not leave food in their vehicles, which were easy targets for the powerful and resourceful bears. Because bears who show aggression towards people usually are eventually destroyed, park personnel have continued to come up with innovative ways to have bears associate humans and their property with unpleasant experiences, such as being hit with [[rubber bullet]]s. Today,{{when|date=November 2020}} about 30 bears a year are captured and [[ear tag|ear-tagged]] and their [[DNA]] is sampled so that, when bear damage occurs, rangers can ascertain which bear is causing the problem.<ref>{{cite magazine | url= http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2001/04/0423_wirebears.html | title= DNA to Help Identify "Problem" Bears at Yosemite | magazine= National Geographic | date = April 23, 2001 | access-date=January 4, 2007}}</ref>{{needs update|date=November 2020}}
Despite the richness of high-quality habitats in Yosemite, the [[brown bear]], [[California condor]], and [[least Bell's vireo]] have become extinct in the park within historical time,<ref name = "snepTerrestrialVertebrates">{{Cite book | first = David M. | last = Graber | chapter = 25: Status of Terrestrial Vertebrates | year = 1996 | pages = 709–34 | title = Sierra Nevada Ecosystem Project. Final Report to Congress. Status of the Sierra Nevada Volume II: Assessments and Scientific Basis for Management Options | url = http://pubs.usgs.gov/dds/dds-43/VOL_II/VII_C25.PDF |isbn=1887673016}}</ref> and another 37 species currently have special status under either California or federal [[endangered species]] legislation. The most serious current threats to Yosemite's wildlife and the ecosystems they occupy include loss of a natural fire regime, [[exotic species]], air pollution, [[habitat fragmentation]], and climate change. On a more local basis, factors such as [[road kill]]s and the availability of human food have affected some wildlife species.{{citation needed|date=November 2020}}
[[File:Yellow star thistle.jpg|thumb|left|upright=0.6|The [[Centaurea solstitialis|yellow star thistle]] competes with Yosemite's native plants.{{citation needed|date=November 2020}}]]
Yosemite National Park has documented more than 130 non-native plant species within park boundaries. These non-native plants were introduced into Yosemite following the migration of early [[European colonization of the Americas|Euro-American]] settlers in the late 1850s. Natural and human-caused disturbances, such as wildland fires and construction activities, have contributed to a rapid increase in the spread of non-native plants. A number of these species aggressively invade and displace the native plant communities, resulting in impacts on the park's resources. Non-native plants can bring about significant changes in park ecosystems by altering the native plant communities and the processes that support them. Some non-native species may cause an increase in the fire frequency of an area or increase the available nitrogen in the soil that may allow more non-native plants to become established. Many non-native species, such as [[Centaurea solstitialis|yellow star thistle]] (''Centaurea solstitialis''), are able to produce a long [[tap root]] that allows them to out-compete the native plants for available water.<ref name = "exotic">{{cite web | url= http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/veg_exotics.htm | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070102234435/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/veg_exotics.htm|archive-date=January 2, 2007 | title= Exotic Plants | date = December 22, 2004| publisher= National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | access-date= January 4, 2007 }}</ref>
Bull thistle (''[[Cirsium vulgare]]''), common mullein (''[[Verbascum thapsus]]''), and Klamath weed (''[[Hypericum perforatum]]'') have been identified as noxious [[pest (organism)|pests]] in Yosemite since the 1940s. Additional species that have been recognized more recently as aggressive and requiring control are yellow star thistle (''Centaurea solstitialis''), sweet clover (''[[Melilot]]'' spp.), Himalayan blackberry (''[[Rubus armeniacus]]''), cut-leaved blackberry (''[[Rubus laciniatus]]'') and large periwinkle (''[[Vinca major]]'').<ref name = "exotic"/>
Increasing [[ozone]] pollution is causing tissue damage to the massive giant sequoia trees in the park, making them more vulnerable to insect infestation and disease. Since the [[conifer cone|cones]] of these trees require fire-touched soil to [[germination|germinate]], historic [[Wildfire#Suppression|fire suppression]] has reduced these trees' ability to reproduce. The current policy of setting [[prescribed fire]]s is expected to help the germination issue.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Giant Sequoias and Fire – Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks (U.S. National Park Service)|url=https://www.nps.gov/seki/learn/nature/giant-sequoias-and-fire.htm|access-date=2021-04-08|website=www.nps.gov|language=en}}</ref>
===Wildfires===
[[File:Yosemite Meadow fire, 9-7-2014.jpg|thumb|The [[Meadow Fire]] burns in Little Yosemite Valley, 2014]]
Natives to Yosemite traditionally and intentionally set small fires in the valley in the early 1860s and much earlier before that to clear the ground of brush as part as their farming practices, resulting in easier crop growth and faster cultivation.<ref name="Spence" /> These fires that Yosemite Natives lit are comparable to contemporary practices like [[controlled burn]]s which are done by the U.S. Forest Service and other environmental experts. Although it was not their primary concern for setting these fires, the Ahwahneechee and other Yosemite Natives helped preserve local biodiversity and ecosystem resilience by lighting these small fires. Native Americans used fire as an early wildlife management tool to keep certain lands clear, resulting in more food for large animals and decreasing the chance of large forest fires which devastate forest ecosystems today.<ref name=":5">{{Cite web |last=Johnson |first=Eric Michael |title=How John Muir's Brand of Conservation Led to the Decline of Yosemite |url=https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/primate-diaries/how-john-muir-s-brand-of-conservation-led-to-the-decline-of-yosemite/ |access-date=2022-04-21 |website=Scientific American Blog Network |language=en}}</ref> Some early uncontrolled forest fires were set accidentally by the militia group led by Major John Savage when the group burned down the Ahwahneechee camp in an attempt to remove them from the land. The houses that they lit on fire eventually caught a large section of the forest on fire and the militia group ended up having to abandon their raid to save their own camp from the wildfire they started.<ref name=":5" />
Forest fires seasonally clear the park of dead vegetation, making way for new growth.<ref name="Evergreen Magazine">{{cite web | url= http://evergreenmagazine.com/magazine/article/Are_there_good_forest_fires_.html | archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20140315012328/http://evergreenmagazine.com/magazine/article/Are_there_good_forest_fires_.html | archive-date= 2014-03-15 | title= Are There Good Forest Fires? | date = Summer 2002| publisher= Evergreen Magazine | access-date= 14 March 2014 }}</ref> These fires damage the income generated by tourism. The [[Rim Fire]] in 2013 destroyed nearly $2 billion in assets and revenue, though natural woodland assets are renewable, and closed off much of the park to tourists.<ref name="National Park Service Fires">{{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/yell/naturescience/wildlandfire.htm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150207153420/http://www.nps.gov/yell/naturescience/wildlandfire.htm |archive-date=February 7, 2015 |title=History of Wildland Fire in Yosemite Park |date=14 March 2014 |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=14 March 2014 |url-status=dead }}</ref> This fire was the third largest on record, and burned nearly 500 acres of wild habitat.<ref name="National Park Service Fires" /> During late July and early August, 2018, sections of the park, including the Valley, were temporarily closed due to the Ferguson Fire at its western boundary.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.fresnobee.com/news/local/article215400735.html|title=Yosemite Valley will close due to fire. 'Get yourself out of here,' official says|work=fresnobee|access-date=2018-07-24}}</ref> The closing was the largest in almost thirty years at the park.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/25/us/yosemite-national-park-fire.html|title=Yosemite National Park Evacuated Amid Threat From Fire|access-date=2018-07-30}}</ref>
==Activities==
[[File:Yosemite shuttlebus.jpg|thumb|left|Yosemite [[Hybrid vehicle|hybrid]] shuttle, a free [[Public transport bus service|bus service]]]]
Yosemite Valley is open year-round and numerous activities are available through the [[National Park Service]], Yosemite Conservancy, and [[Aramark]] at Yosemite, including nature walks, photography and art classes, stargazing programs, tours, bike rentals, rafting, mule and horseback rides, and rock climbing classes. Many people enjoy short walks and longer hikes to waterfalls in Yosemite Valley, or walks among giant sequoias in the Mariposa, Tuolumne, or Merced Groves. Others like to drive or take a tour bus to Glacier Point (summer–fall) to see views of Yosemite Valley and the high country, or drive along the scenic [[Tioga Road]] to Tuolumne Meadows (May–October) and go for a walk or hike.
Most park visitors stay just for the day, and visit only those locations within Yosemite Valley that are easily accessible by automobile. There is a [[United States dollar|US$]]25–30 per automobile user fee to enter the park, depending on the season.<ref>{{cite web | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/feesandreservations.htm | title = Fees and Reservations}} National Park Service: Yosemite National Park. Retrieved on October 27, 2007.</ref> Traffic congestion in the valley is a serious problem during peak season, in summer. A free [[public transport|shuttle bus system]] operates year-round in the valley, and [[park ranger]]s encourage people to use this system since parking within the valley during the summer is often nearly impossible to find.<ref>{{cite web | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/bus.htm | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | title = Bus | date = May 27, 2009 }}</ref> Transit options are available from [[Fresno, California|Fresno]] and [[Merced, California|Merced]].<ref name=Marshall>{{cite magazine| last1=Marshall |first1=Aarian | title= Hiking or Camping? Take the Bus to the Trail This Summer|url=https://www.wired.com/story/hiking-camping-take-bus-trail-summer/|magazine= [[Wired (magazine)|Wired]]| date=May 24, 2019 |access-date=June 9, 2019}}</ref>
In addition to exploring the natural features of the park, visitors can also learn about the natural and cultural history of Yosemite Valley at a number of facilities in the valley: the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center, the adjoining Yosemite Museum, and the Nature Center at Happy Isles. There are also two [[National Historic Landmark]]s: the [[Sierra Club]]'s [[LeConte Memorial Lodge]] (Yosemite's first public visitor center), and the Ahwahnee Hotel. Camp 4 was added to the [[National Register of Historic Places]] in 2003.<ref>{{cite web |title = Camp 4 Listed With National Register of Historic Places
| work = NPS Press Release | publisher =National Park Service | date = February 27, 2003 |url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/news/2003/camp0227.htm |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20070316120511/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/news/2003/camp0227.htm |archive-date = 2007-03-16 |access-date = December 14, 2008 }}</ref>
In the winter, it is snowed in, but the area of [[Tuolumne Meadows]] has a great deal of [[Hiking, rock climbing, and mountain climbing around Tuolumne Meadows|hiking, rock climbing, and mountain climbing]]; see also [[the highest mountains of Yosemite National Park]].
===Hiking===
[[File:Half dome cables big (cropped).jpg|thumb|upright|Hikers line the [[Half Dome]] cables on a busy summer day in 2008]]
Over {{convert|800|mi|km}} of trails are available to hikers<ref name="naturehistory"/>—everything from an easy stroll to a challenging mountain hike, or an overnight [[backpacking (wilderness)|backpack trip]]. One of the most popular trails leads to the summit of [[Half Dome]] and requires an advance permit from [[Memorial Day]] weekend in late May, to [[Columbus Day]] in early October.<ref>[https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/halfdome.htm "Half Dome Day Hike"] ([https://web.archive.org/web/20181030101332/https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/halfdome.htm archive]). ''nps.gov''. National Park Service. April 18, 2018. Retrieved November 27, 2018.</ref> A maximum of 300 hikers, selected by lottery, are permitted to advance beyond the base of the subdome each day, including 225 day hikers and 75 backpackers.<ref>[https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/hdpermits.htm "Half Dome Permits for Day Hikers"] ([https://web.archive.org/web/20181118095956/https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/hdpermits.htm archive]). ''nps.gov''. National Park Service. November 9, 2018. Retrieved November 27, 2018.</ref>
The park can be divided into five sections for the day-user—Yosemite Valley, Wawona/Mariposa Grove/Glacier Point, Tuolumne Meadows, Hetch Hetchy, and [[Crane Flat Campground|Crane Flat]]/White Wolf.<ref>{{cite web|url = http://www.yosemitehikes.com/hikes.htm|title = Yosemite Hikes|first = Russ|last = Cary}}</ref> Numerous books describe park trails, and free information is available from the National Park Service in Yosemite. Park rangers encourage visitors to experience portions of the park in addition to Yosemite Valley.
Between late spring and early fall, much of the park can be accessed for multiple-day backpacking trips. All overnight trips into the back country require a wilderness permit<ref name = "permits"/> and most require approved bear-resistant food storage.<ref name = "food storage">{{cite web | publisher = National Park Service: National Park Service | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/bears.htm| title = Bear and food storage | date = February 10, 2010}}</ref>
===Driving destinations===
{{Further|List of Yosemite destinations}}
While some locations in Yosemite require hiking, other locations can be reached via automobile transportation. Driving locations also allow guests to observe the night sky in locations other than their campsite or lodge. All of the roads in Yosemite are scenic, but the most famous is the Tioga Road, typically open from late May or early June through November.<ref name = "auto touring">{{cite web | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | title = Auto Touring | url =http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/touring.htm | date = December 22, 2004 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref>
As an alternative to driving, bicycles are allowed on the roads. However, bicycles are allowed off-road on only {{convert|12|mi|km}} of paved trails in Yosemite Valley itself; mountain biking is not allowed.<ref name="bike">{{cite web | title= Biking | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/biking.htm | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park |date=March 2007 | access-date = March 23, 2007 }}</ref>
===Climbing===
[[File:Tom Frost - Ryan Frost in Narrows - 1996.jpg|thumb|left|upright|Climbing the Narrows in [[Sentinel Rock]]]]
Rock climbing is an important part of Yosemite.<ref name="climbing">{{cite web | title = Climbing | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbing.htm | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | date = December 11, 2008}}</ref> In particular [[Yosemite Valley]], which is surrounded by famous summits like [[Half Dome]] and [[El Capitan]]. [[Camp 4 (Yosemite)|Camp 4]], a walk-in campground in the Valley, was instrumental in the development of rock climbing as a sport, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.<ref name = "camp4">{{cite press release | title = Camp 4 Listed With National Register of Historic Places | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | date = February 27, 2003 | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/news/2003/camp0227.htm | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20070316120511/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/news/2003/camp0227.htm | archive-date = 2007-03-16 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref> Climbers can generally be spotted in the snow-free months on anything from ten-foot-high (3 m) boulders to the {{convert|3300|ft|km|adj=on}} face of El Capitan. Classes on rock climbing are offered by numerous groups.
===Winter activities===
[[File:Yosemite Winter Hiking.jpg|thumb|A ranger-guided [[snowshoe]] walk in the park]]
Yosemite Valley is open all year, although some roads within the park close in winter. [[Downhill skiing]] is available at the [[Badger Pass Ski Area]]—the oldest downhill skiing area in California, offering downhill skiing from mid-December through early April.<ref name="skiing">{{cite web |url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wintersports.htm | title= Skiing | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | date = September 21, 2006 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref> Much of the park is open to [[cross-country skiing]] and [[snowshoe]]ing, with several backcountry ski huts open for use.<ref name = "TuolumneWinter">{{cite web | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | title = Tuolumne Meadows Winter Conditions Update | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/tm.htm | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref><ref name="winter">{{cite web | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | title = Winter Wilderness Travel | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildwinter.htm | date = March 2, 2010}}</ref> Wilderness permits are required for backcountry overnight ski trips.<ref name = "permits">{{cite web | title = Wilderness Permits | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm| date = February 12, 2010 }}</ref>
The [[Ahwahnee Hotel|Bracebridge dinner]] is an annual holiday event, held since 1927 at the Ahwahnee Hotel, inspired by [[Washington Irving]]'s descriptions of Squire Bracebridge and English [[Christmas]] traditions of the 18th century in his ''Sketch Book''. Between 1929 and 1973, the show was organized by [[Ansel Adams]].<ref name="Bracebridge">{{cite web|title=History |work=The Bracebridge Dinner at Yosemite |url=http://www.bracebridgedinners.com/history.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120312225909/http://www.bracebridgedinners.com/history.html |archive-date=March 12, 2012 |access-date=May 8, 2010 |url-status=dead }}</ref>
===Other===
Bicycle rentals are available in Yosemite Valley spring through fall. Over {{convert|12|mi|km}} of paved bike paths are available in Yosemite Valley. In addition, bicyclists can ride on regular roads. Helmets are required by law for children under 18 years of age. Off-trail riding and [[mountain biking]] are not permitted in Yosemite National Park.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/pphtml/planyourvisit.html|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090221050244/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/pphtml/planyourvisit.html|archive-date=February 21, 2009|title=Plan Your Visit|work=Yosemite National Park|publisher=U.S. National Park Service}}</ref>
Water activities are plentiful during warmer months. Rafting can be done through the Yosemite Valley on the Merced River from late May to July.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Brown |first1=Ann Marie |title=Moon Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon Hiking, Camping, Waterfalls & Big Trees |date=2015 |publisher=Avalon Publishing |isbn=9781640494459|at=Rafting}}</ref> There are also swimming pools available at Yosemite Lodge and Curry Village.
{{Clear}}
In 2010, Yosemite National Park was honored with its own quarter under the [[America the Beautiful Quarters]] program.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.americathebeautifulquarters.gov/coins/2010/yosemite|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110721032931/http://www.americathebeautifulquarters.gov/coins/2010/yosemite|archive-date=July 21, 2011|title=Yosemite National Parks Quarter|publisher=U.S. Mint}}</ref>
===Horsetail Fall===
Horsetail Fall flows over the eastern edge of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. This small waterfall usually flows only during winter and is easy to miss. On rare occasions during mid- to late February, it can glow orange when it's backlit by sunset. This unique lighting effect happens only on evenings with a clear sky when the waterfall is flowing. Even some haze or minor cloudiness can greatly diminish or eliminate the effect. Although entirely natural, the phenomenon is reminiscent of the human-caused Firefall that historically occurred from Glacier Point.
==In popular culture==
[[File:Yogi Bear with "don't feed the bears" message - NARA - 286013.tif|thumb|upright|A [[Yogi Bear]] sign advising young visitors to not feed the bears at Yosemite National Park.]]
The opening scenes of ''[[Star Trek V: The Final Frontier]]'' (1989) were filmed in Yosemite National Park. Films such as ''[[The Last of the Mohicans (1920 American film)|The Last of the Mohicans]]'' (1920) and ''[[Maverick (film)|Maverick]]'' (1994) have also been shot here.<ref>Maddrey, Joseph (2016). ''The Quick, the Dead and the Revived: The Many Lives of the Western Film''. McFarland. p. 175. {{ISBN|978-1476625492}}.</ref> The 2014 documentary ''[[Valley Uprising]]'' is centered around Yosemite Valley and its history with an emphasis on the climbing culture.<ref>{{Citation|last1=Mortimer|first1=Peter|title=Valley Uprising|date=2014-09-01|url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3784160/|type=Documentary|others=Peter Sarsgaard, Alex Honnold, Yvon Chouinard, Royal Robbins|publisher=Sender Films, Big UP Productions|access-date=2021-04-26|last2=Rosen|first2=Nick|last3=Lowell|first3=Josh}}</ref> The Academy Award-winning 2018 documentary ''[[Free Solo]]'' was filmed in Yosemite.<ref>{{Cite news|last=Catsoulis|first=Jeannette|date=September 27, 2018|title=Review: In 'Free Solo,' Braving El Capitan With Only Fingers and Toes|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/27/movies/free-solo-review-alex-honnold-el-capitan.html|access-date=2020-09-04}}</ref> ''[[The Dawn Wall]],'' a 2017 documentary, was also filmed in Yosemite.<ref>{{Citation|last1=Lowell|first1=Josh|title=The Dawn Wall|date=2018-07-17|url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7286916/|type=Documentary, Biography, Sport|others=John Branch, Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson|publisher=Red Bull Media House, Sender Films|access-date=2021-04-26|last2=Mortimer|first2=Peter}}</ref>
==See also==
{{columns-list|colwidth=30em|
* [[1996 Yosemite Valley landslide]]
* [[Bibliography of the Sierra Nevada]]
* [[Buffalo Soldier#Park rangers|Buffalo Soldiers (park rangers)]]
* [[Cathedral Peak Granodiorite]]
* [[Chinquapin, California]]
* [[List of birds of Yosemite National Park]]
* [[List of national parks of the United States]]
* [[List of plants of the Sierra Nevada (U.S.)|List of plants of the Sierra Nevada]]
* [[National parks in California]]
* [[National Register of Historic Places listings in Yosemite National Park]]
* [[Protected areas of the Sierra Nevada]]
* [[Yosemite Sam]] – Warner Bros. theatrical cartoon character
* [[Yosemite West, California]], a community inside the gates of the park
}}
==Citations==
{{clear right}}
{{reflist}}
==General references==
{{refbegin}}
* {{Cite book|title = Yosemite: the Park and its Resources|last = Greene|first = Linda Wedel|publisher = U.S. Department of the Interior / National Park Service|year = 1987|url = http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/yosemite_resources/yosemite_resources.pdf|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20110606144808/http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/yosemite_resources/yosemite_resources.pdf|archive-date = 2011-06-06}}
* {{cite book|last=Harris|first=Ann G.|title=Geology of National Parks|edition=Fifth|location=Kendall, Iowa|publisher=Hunt Publishing|year=1998|isbn=0787253537}}
* {{cite book|last1=Kiver|first1=Eugene P.|first2=David V.|last2=Harris|title=Geology of U.S. Parklands|edition=Fifth|publisher=John Wiley & Sons|location=New York|year=1999|isbn= 0471332186}}
* Muir, John. "[http://ebooks.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=cent;cc=cent;rgn=full%20text;idno=cent0040-5;didno=cent0040-5;view=image;seq=0666;node=cent0040-5%3A2 Features of the Proposed Yosemite National Park]" ''The Century; a popular quarterly'' (Sept. 1890) 40#5
* {{cite book|last=Schaffer|first=Jeffrey P.|title=Yosemite National Park: A Natural History Guide to Yosemite and Its Trails|publisher=Wilderness Press|location=Berkeley|year=1999|isbn=0899972446}}
* {{cite book|last=Wuerthner|first=George|title=Yosemite: A Visitor's Companion|publisher=Stackpole Books|year=1994|isbn=0811725987|url=https://archive.org/details/yosemitevisitors00wuer}}
* {{cite book|title=Yosemite: Official National Park Service Handbook|volume=138|publisher=Division of Publications, National Park Service|year=1989|ref={{harvid|NPS|1989}}}}
* {{NPS}}
** {{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wtr_climate.htm|title=Climate|date=December 22, 2004|access-date=January 27, 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070101113353/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wtr_climate.htm|archive-date=January 1, 2007|publisher=National Park Service}}
** {{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/veg_exotics.htm|title=Exotic Vegetation|date=December 22, 2004|access-date=January 27, 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070102234435/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/veg_exotics.htm|archive-date=January 2, 2007|publisher=National Park Service}}
** {{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/nature.htm|title=Nature & History|date=October 13, 2006|access-date=January 27, 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070125062753/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/nature.htm|archive-date=January 25, 2007|publisher=National Park Service}}
** {{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/water.htm|title=Water Overview|date=December 22, 2004|access-date=January 27, 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070107180730/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/water.htm|archive-date=January 7, 2007|publisher=National Park Service}}
** {{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wildlife.htm|title=Wildlife Overview|date=December 22, 2004|access-date=January 27, 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070127153544/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wildlife.htm|archive-date=January 27, 2007|publisher=National Park Service}}
{{refend}}
==External links==
{{Spoken Wikipedia|date=2005-06-18|Yosemite_National_Park_(Part_1).ogg|Yosemite National Park (Part 2).oga}}
* {{Official website}} of the [https://www.nps.gov/index.htm National Park Service]
* [https://www.yosemite.org/ Yosemite Conservancy]
* [http://xroads.virginia.edu/~MA96/RAILROAD/home.html The Role of the Railroads in Yellowstone and Yosemite National Parks] from American Studies at the University of Virginia
* [https://www.yosemite.com/ Yosemite Mariposa County Tourism Bureau]
;Media specific
* [https://vimeo.com/35396305 Project Yosemite | Yosemite HD | Motion Timelapse Video]
* {{Cite web |url=http://thehive.modbee.com/?q=node%2F153 |title=Historic Yosemite Indian Chiefs – with photos |access-date=April 6, 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060521032840/http://thehive.modbee.com/?q=node%2F153 |archive-date=May 21, 2006 |url-status=dead}}
* [https://contentdm.lib.byu.edu/digital/collection/EdithIrvine/search/searchterm/yosemite%20national%20park%20(calif.)/field/subjec/mode/all/conn/and/order/title/ad/asc Historic Photographs of Yosemite National Park taken by Edith Irvine]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20181024200910/https://www.projectyose.com/ Project Yosemite | An ongoing adventure to timelapse Yosemite in an extreme way]
* [https://archive.org/details/my_first_summer_in_the_sierra_ap_0906_librivox/ My First Summer in the Sierra] by John Muir. Free MP3 audio recording from LibriVox.org
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{{short description|National park in California, United States}}
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{{Use American English|date=March 2021}}
{{Use mdy dates|date=April 2018}}
{{Infobox protected area
| name = Yosemite National Park
| iucn_category = II
| photo = Tunnel View, Yosemite Valley, Yosemite NP - Diliff.jpg
| photo_caption = [[Yosemite Valley]] from [[Tunnel View]]
| map = California#USA
| label = Yosemite National Park
| map_caption = Location in California##Location in the United States
| map_width =
| location = [[Tuolumne County, California|Tuolumne]], [[Mariposa County, California|Mariposa]], [[Mono County, California|Mono]] and [[Madera County, California|Madera Counties]], [[California]], United States
| nearest_city = [[Mariposa, California]]
| coordinates = {{coord|37|44|33|N|119|32|15|W|region:US-CA|display=inline, title}}
| coords_ref = <ref>{{cite gnis|255923|Yosemite National Park}}</ref>
| established = {{start date|1890|10|1}}
| area_acre = 759620
| area_ref = <ref name="statistics">{{cite web |url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/management/statistics.htm |title=Park Statistics |publisher=Yosemite National Park ([[U.S. National Park Service]]) |access-date=July 22, 2018}}</ref>
| visitation_num = 2,268,313
| visitation_year = 2020
| visitation_ref = <ref>{{cite web |title=Annual Visitation Highlights |url=https://irma.nps.gov/STATS/Reports/Park/YOSE |website=nps.gov |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=30 April 2021}}</ref>
| governing_body = [[National Park Service]]
| website = [https://www.nps.gov/yose/ Yosemite National Park]
| embedded1 =
{{Infobox UNESCO World Heritage Site
|child = yes
|ID = 308
|Year = 1984
|Criteria = Natural: vii, viii
}}
}}
'''Yosemite National Park''' ({{IPAc-en|j|oʊ|ˈ|s|ɛ|m|ɪ|t|i}} {{respell|yoh|SEM|ih|tee}})<ref>{{MW|Yosemite Falls}}</ref> is an American [[national park]] in [[California]],<ref>{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=324}}</ref><ref name="VisitCal">{{cite web|url=http://www.visitcalifornia.com/region/discover-high-sierra|title=Discover the High Sierra|publisher=[[California Office of Tourism]]}}</ref> surrounded on the southeast by [[Sierra National Forest]] and on the northwest by [[Stanislaus National Forest]]. The park is managed by the [[National Park Service]] and covers an area of {{convert|759620|acre|sqmi km2|0}}<ref name="statistics" /> and sits in four [[County|counties]]{{snd}}centered in [[Tuolumne County, California|Tuolumne]] and [[Mariposa County, California|Mariposa]], extending north and east to [[Mono County, California|Mono]] and south to [[Madera County, California|Madera County]]. Designated a [[World Heritage Site]] in 1984, Yosemite is internationally recognized for its granite cliffs, waterfalls, clear streams, [[Sequoiadendron giganteum|giant sequoia]] groves, lakes, mountains, meadows, glaciers, and [[Biodiversity|biological diversity]].<ref name = "naturehistory">{{cite web | title =Nature & History | publisher = United States National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url =http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/nature.htm | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070125062753/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/nature.htm|archive-date=January 25, 2007 | date = October 13, 2006 | access-date = January 27, 2007}}</ref> Almost 95 percent of the park is designated [[National Wilderness Preservation System|wilderness]].<ref>{{cite web | title =Yosemite Wilderness| publisher = United States National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/yosemitewilderness.htm | access-date = March 15, 2008 }}</ref> Yosemite is one of the largest and least fragmented habitat blocks in the [[Sierra Nevada]], and the park supports a diversity of plants and animals.
The [[geology of the Yosemite area]] is characterized by granite rocks and remnants of older rock. About 10 million years ago, the Sierra Nevada was uplifted and tilted to form its unique slopes, which increased the steepness of stream and river beds, resulting in the formation of deep, narrow canyons. About one million years ago glaciers formed at higher elevations which eventually melted and moved downslope, cutting and sculpting the U-shaped valley that attracts so many visitors to its scenic vistas today.<ref name="naturehistory" />
Yosemite National Park itself was discovered by European American settlers in 1851. There are earlier instances of other travelers entering the Valley but [[Jim Savage|James D. Savage]] is accredited with discovering the area that is now known as Yosemite National Park.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Yosemite NP: Early History of Yosemite Valley |url=https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/yose/kuykendall/sec.htm |access-date=2022-04-21 |website=www.nps.gov }}</ref> Despite Savage and other white men claiming their discovery of Yosemite, the region and Valley itself has been inhabited for nearly 4,000 years, although humans may have first visited the area as long as 8,000 to 10,000 years ago.<ref>{{Cite book | title=Yosemite: Official National Park Service Handbook |publisher=National Park Service |year=1989 |series=no. 138 |location=Washington, DC |page=102}}</ref><ref name=":1" />
Yosemite was critical to the development of the national park idea. [[Galen Clark]] and others lobbied to protect Yosemite Valley from development, ultimately leading to President [[Abraham Lincoln]] signing the Yosemite Grant of 1864 which declared Yosemite as federally preserved land.<ref name="historyculture" /> It was not until 1890 when [[John Muir]] led a successful movement which had [[United States Congress|Congress]] establish Yosemite Valley and its surrounding areas as a National Park. This helped pave the way for the [[National Park Service#National Park System|National Park System]].<ref name="historyculture" /> Yosemite now draws about four million visitors each year,<ref name="visits">{{cite web | url=https://irma.nps.gov/Stats/SSRSReports/Park%20Specific%20Reports/Annual%20Park%20Recreation%20Visitation%20(1904%20-%20Last%20Calendar%20Year) | title = Annual Park Recreation Visitation (1904 – Last Calendar Year) | publisher=U.S. National Park Service | access-date=March 11, 2019}}</ref> and most visitors spend the majority of their time in the {{convert|7|sqmi|km2|spell=in}} of [[Yosemite Valley]].<ref name="naturehistory" /> The park set a visitation record in 2016, surpassing five million visitors for the first time in its history.<ref>{{cite web|title=New visitation record in 2016 as over 5 million people visited Yosemite National Park.|url=http://goldrushcam.com/sierrasuntimes/index.php/news/local-news/8685-new-visitation-record-in-2016-as-over-5-million-people-visited-yosemite-national-park|website=GoldRushCam.com|publisher=Sierra Sun Times|access-date=February 8, 2017}}</ref> The park began requiring reservations to access the park during peak periods starting in 2020 as a response to the rise in visitors.
==Toponym==
The word "Yosemite" (meaning "killer" in [[Miwok]]) histornnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiggggggggggggggggggggggggaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa fuck me daddy
ically referred to the name which the Miwok gave to the Ahwahneechee People, an Indigenous tribe driven out of Yosemite Valley by the [[Mariposa Battalion]].<ref name=Anderson/><ref name=":1" /><ref name=":0" /> Previously, the region had been called "Ahwahnee"("big mouth") by its only Indigenous inhabitants, the Ahwahneechee.<ref name=Anderson>{{cite web|title = Origin of the Word Yosemite|url = http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/origin_of_word_yosemite.html|website = www.yosemite.ca.us|access-date = October 4, 2015 |first1 = Dan |last1=Anderson}}</ref> The term "Yosemite" in Miwok is easily confusable with a similar term for "grizzly bear", and is still a common misconception today.<ref name=Anderson/><ref name=Beeler>{{cite journal|title=Yosemite and Tamalpais|journal=Journal of the American Name Society|volume=3|issue=3|pages=185–86|year=1955|first=Madison Scott|last=Beeler}}</ref>
==History==
{{Main|History of the Yosemite area}}
===Ahwahneechee and the Mariposa Wars===
{{multiple image
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| header =
| image1 = Miwok-Paiute ceremony in 1872 at current site of Yosemite Lodge.jpeg
| width1 = 195
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| caption1 = [[Northern Paiute people|Paiute]] ceremony (1872)
| image2 = Lafayette Bunnell 1880.jpg
| width2 = 160
| alt2 = engraving of Dr Lafayette Bunnell, showing him as an older man with a craggy face, short bristly hair and a cropped grey beard.
| caption2 = [[Lafayette Bunnell]] gave Yosemite Valley its name.
}}
The indigenous natives of Yosemite called themselves the [[Ahwahnechee|Ahwahneechee]], meaning "dwellers" in Ahwahnee.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Runte |first=Alfred |url=https://archive.org/details/yosemiteembattle00runt |title=Yosemite: The Embattled Wilderness |publisher=University of Nebraska Press |year=1990 |isbn=0803238940 |pages=Chapter 1}}</ref> The Ahwahneechee People was the only tribe that lived in the boundaries of Yosemite National Park but other tribes lived in its surrounding areas, together they formed a larger Indigneous population in California, called the [[Plains and Sierra Miwok|Southern Sierra Miwok.]]<ref name="Spence">{{cite journal |last1=Spence |first1=Mark |date=1996 |title=Dispossesing the Wilderness: Yosemite Indians and the National Park Ideal, 1864–1930 |journal=Pacific Historical Review |volume=65 |issue=1 |pages=27–59 |doi=10.2307/3640826 |issn=0030-8684 |jstor=3640826}}</ref> They are related to the Northern [[Northern Paiute|Paiute]] and [[Mono people|Mono]] tribes. Other tribes like the Central [[Sierra Miwoks]] and the [[Yokuts]], who both lived in the San Joaquin Valley and central California, visited Yosemite to trade and intermarry with the Ahwahneechee.<ref>{{Cite book |last=W. |first=Greene, Linda |url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/568734022 | title=Yosemite, the park and its resources: a history of the discovery, management, and physical development of Yosemite National Park, California : historic resource study |date=1987 |publisher=U.S. Dept. of the Interior, National Park Service |oclc=568734022}}</ref> This resulted in a blending of culture which helped preserve Indigenous people's presence in Yosemite after early American settlements and urban development threatened their survival.<ref name="Spence" /> Vegetation and game in the region were similar to that present today; acorns were a staple to their diet, as well as other seeds and plants, salmon and deer.<ref name="Spence" />
A major event impacting the native population of Yosemite and all of California in the mid-19th century was the [[California Gold Rush]], which drew more than 90,000 European Americans to the area in less than two years, causing competition for resources between gold miners and the local Natives.<ref>{{cite web |last=Maranzani |first=Barbara |date=August 31, 2018 |title=8 Things You May Not Know About the California Gold Rush |url=https://www.history.com/news/8-things-you-may-not-know-about-the-california-gold-rush |url-status=live |access-date=July 23, 2021 |website=History.com}}</ref> Before large amounts of European settlers arrived in California, about 70 years before the Gold Rush, the Indigenous population was estimated to be 300,000, once the Gold Rush started it dropped down to 150,000, and just ten years later, only about 50,000 remained.<ref name=":1" /> The reason for such a decline in the Native American population results from numerous reasons including disease, birth rate decreases, starvation, and the conflicts from the [[American Indian Wars]]. The conflict in Yosemite is known as the [[Mariposa War]], it started in December 1850 when California funded a state militia to drive Native people from contested territory, also known as Indigenous traditonal and sacred homelands; the goal was to suppress Native American resistance to American expansion.<ref name="miwuk">{{cite web |title=Who We Are |url=https://www.southernsierramiwuknation.org/about-2 |url-status=live |access-date=July 23, 2021 |publisher=Southern Sierra Miwuk Nation}}</ref>
In retaliation to the extermination and domestication of their people, and loss of their lands and resources, Yosemite Indian tribes often stole from settlers and miners, sometimes killing them, both actions seen as tribute for the great losses they experienced.<ref name=":1" /> The War and formation of the [[Mariposa Battalion]] was partially the result of a single incident involving [[Jim Savage|James Savage]], a trader in Fresno, California whose trading post was attacked in December, 1850. After the incident, Savage rallied other miners and gained the support of local officials to pursue revenge and a full out war against the Natives, that is how he was appointed [[United States Army]] Major and leader the Mariposa Battalion in the beginning of 1851.<ref name=":1" /> He and Captain John Boling were responsible for pursuing the Ahwahneechee people that were being led by [[Chief Tenaya]] and driving them as far west as possible, out of Yosemite.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Sketch of Yosemite National Park and an Account of the Origin of the Yosemite and Hetch Hetchy Valleys (History of Yosemite National Parkr) |url=https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/yose/matthes/sec1.htm |access-date=2022-04-19 |website=www.nps.gov}}</ref><ref name=":1" /> In March 1851 under the command of Savage, the Mariposa Battalion captured about 70 Ahwahneechee and planned to take them to a reservation in Fresno, but they all managed to escape. Later in May, under the command of Boling, the battalion captured 35 Ahwahneechee including Chief Tenaya and marched them to the reservation but most were allowed to eventually leave and the rest escaped.<ref name=":1" /> Tenaya and others fled across the [[Sierra Nevada]] and settled with the [[Kucadikadi|Mono Lake Paiutes]]. Tenaya and some of his companions were ultimately killed in 1853 either over stealing horses or a gambling conflict and the survivors of Tenaya's group and other Ahwahneechee were absorbed into the Mono Lake Paiute tribe.<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":2">{{Cite web |last=Bingaman |first=John W. |date=1966 |title=The Ahwahneechees: A Story of the Yosemite Indians |url=https://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/the_ahwahneechees/chapter_1.html |access-date=April 11, 2022 |website=yosemite.ca.us }}</ref><ref name=":3">{{cite web |last1=Godfrey |first1=Elizabeth |title=Yosemite Indians; Yesterday and Today |url=http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/yosemite_indians/history.html |access-date=26 August 2021 |website=Yosemite Indians}}</ref>
[[File:Chief Tenaya by Sculptor Sal Maccarone carved in 1990.jpg|thumb|226x226px|Sculpture of Chief Tenaya made by Sal Maccarone for the Tenaya Lodge in Yosemite National Park]]
Accounts from this battalion were the first well-documented reports of ethnic Europeans entering Yosemite Valley. Attached to Savage's unit was Doctor [[Lafayette Bunnell]], who later wrote about his awestruck impressions of the valley in ''The Discovery of the Yosemite''. Bunnell is credited with naming Yosemite Valley, based on his interviews with Chief Tenaya. Bunnell wrote that Chief Tenaya was the founder of the Ahwahnee colony.<ref name="Bunnell17">{{cite book|title=Discovery of the Yosemite and the Indian War of 1851 Which Led to That Event |last=Bunnell |first=Lafayette H. |url=http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/discovery_of_the_yosemite/17.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121005171611/http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/discovery_of_the_yosemite/17.html |archive-date=October 5, 2012 |chapter=Chapter 17 |publisher=F.H. Revell |year=1892 |access-date=January 27, 2007 |isbn=0939666588 |url-status=dead }}</ref> Bunnell falsely believed that the word "Yosemite" meant "full-grown grizzly bear."<ref>{{cite book|title=Discovery of the Yosemite and the Indian War of 1851 Which Led to That Event |last=Bunnell |first=Lafayette H.}}</ref> In fact, "Yosemite" was derived from the Miwok term for the Ahwaneechee people: ''yohhe'meti,'' meaning "they are killers".<ref name="Anderson" /><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?search=Yosemite&searchmode=none|title=Yosemite|work=Online etymology dictionary|access-date=September 10, 2010}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=1879. |first=Barrett, S. A. |url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/944730381 |title=Myths of the southern sierra miwok. |date=2010 |publisher=Nabu Press |isbn=978-1-177-40758-8 |oclc=944730381}}</ref>
===Indigenous peoples' presence post war and present day===
[[File:Lucy Telles basket.jpg|thumb|Basket woven by Lucy Telles (1885-1955), a [[Kucadikadi|Mono Lake Paiute]] and [[Miwok#Southern Sierra Miwok|Southern Sierra Miwok]] Native American artist from the Yosemite region|163x163px]]
After the [[Mariposa War]], a number of Native Americans continued to live in the Yosemite area, despite their overall population being severely decreased in the present-day park's boundary. The remaining Yosemite [[Ahwahneechee]] tribe members there were forced to relocate to an Indian village constructed in 1851 by the state government .<ref name=":1" /> They learned to live within this camp and their limited rights, adapting to the changing environment by taking advantage of the growing tourism industry through employment opportunities and creating small businesses from selling goods and providing services.<ref name="Spence" /> Despite the integration of Indigenous people into the growing American settlement and tourism industry, their villages were destroyed and their people were forced to relocate four different times throughout the park's history. The U.S. Army was responsible for the village's destruction in 1851 and 1906, and the National Park Service was responsible for it in 1929 and 1969.<ref name=":1" /> In 1969, the National Park Service evicted the remaining Native people from their residences and destroyed their village as part of a fire-fighting exercise.<ref name="miwuk" /> A reconstructed "Indian Village of Ahwahnee" has been erected behind the [[Yosemite Museum]], located next to the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center.<ref>{{cite web |title=Indian Village of the Ahwahnee – Yosemite National Park (U.S. National Park Service) |url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/historyculture/yosemite-indians.htm |access-date=1 March 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Yosemite Indians – Yosemite National Park (U.S. National Park Service) |url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/historyculture/indian-village-of-the-ahwahnee.htm |access-date=1 March 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Yosemite Valley map |url=https://www.nps.gov/carto/hfc/carto/media/YOSEmap2.pdf |access-date=1 March 2021}}</ref>
By the late 19th century, the population of all native inhabitants in Yosemite was difficult to determine, estimates ranged from smaller numbers, such as thirty individuals, to several hundred. The [[Ahwahneechee]] people and their descendants were even harder to identify.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Solnit|first=Rebecca| url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/876343009 | title=Savage Dreams: a Journey into the Hidden Wars of the American West.|date=2014|publisher=[[University of California Press]] |isbn=978-0-520-95792-3|location=Berkeley|oclc=876343009}}</ref> The last full-blooded Ahwahneechee died in 1931, her name was Totuya, or Maria Lebrado, she was the granddaughter of Chief [[Tenaya]] and one of many forced out of her ancestral homelands in Yosemite National Park.<ref name=":1" /><ref name="miwuk" /> Now the Ahwahneechee live through the memory of their descendants, their fellow Yosemite Natives, and through museums like the Yosemite, California museum exhibit in the [[Smithsonian Museum of American History|Smithsonian]] and the Yosemite Museum.<ref name=":1" /> As a method of self preservation and resilience, the Indigenous people of California proposed treaties in 1851 and 1852 which would have established land reservations for them but Congress refused to sign them.<ref name=":1" /> The quest for justice and sovereignty by Yosemite Natives has been ongoing for well over a hundred years. As of today, the Southern Sierra Miwuk Nation is still seeking tribal sovereignty and federal recognition, which is critical for their wellbeing and cultural preservation.<ref name="miwuk" /><ref name=":4">{{Cite web |title=Federal Recognition {{!}} Southern Sierra Miwuk Nation |url=https://www.southernsierramiwuknation.org/federal-recognition |access-date=2022-04-21 |website=SouthernSierra Miwuk |language=en}}</ref> Progress has been made in terms of the relationship between the U.S. government and tribal governments with the National Park Service creating policies to protect Indigenous sacred sites and allow Natives to return to their homelands and use National Park resources.<ref name=":4" /><ref>{{Cite book |first=Jeanette |last=Wolfley |url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/1305864036 |title=Reclaiming a presence in ancestral lands : the return of Native Peoples to the National Parks |date=2016 |publisher=[University of New Mexico, School of Law] |oclc=1305864036}}</ref>
===Early tourists===
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| image1 = 30. The dead giant.jpg
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| caption1 = The Dead Giant ({{circa|1870s}})
| image2 = 8. The vernal fall, Yosemite valley.jpg
| width2 = 188
| alt2 =
| caption2 = [[Vernal Fall]] ({{circa|1870s}})
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| image1 = Wawona Hotel.jpg
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| caption1 = The [[Wawona Hotel]] (1985)
| image2 = Mother Curry in front of Camp Curry.jpeg
| width2 = 130
| alt2 = Woman in a long dress in front of a sign across a road. Wooden letters read "Camp Curry".
| caption2 = Jennie Curry in front of Camp Curry ({{circa|1900}})
}}
[[File:Camp Yosemite 1907.jpg|thumb|Advertisement of 1907 inviting tourists to the park]]
In 1855, entrepreneur [[James Mason Hutchings]], artist [[Thomas Ayres (artist)|Thomas Ayres]] and two others were the first to tour the area.<ref name="GeologyNP326">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=326}}</ref> Hutchings and Ayres were responsible for much of the earliest publicity about Yosemite, writing articles and [[Hutchings' Illustrated California Magazine|special magazine issues about the Valley]].{{sfn|Wuerthner|1994|p=20}} Ayres' style in art was highly detailed with exaggerated angularity. His works and written accounts were distributed nationally, and an art exhibition of his drawings was held in New York City. Hutchings' publicity efforts between 1855 and 1860 led to an increase in tourism to Yosemite.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://xroads.virginia.edu/~MA96/RAILROAD/yosemite.html|title=Discovery and Invention in the Yosemite|work=The Role of Railroads in Protecting, Promoting, and Selling Yellowstone and Yosemite National Parks|first=J.S.|last=Johns|publisher=University of Virginia|year=1996}}</ref> A number of Natives in Yosemite supported the growing tourism industry by working as laborers or maids. Later, they became part of the tourism industry itself by performing dances for tourists, being guides, and selling handcrafted good, most notably woven baskets.<ref name="Spence" /> The Indian village and its peoples were of immense interest to visitors, especially James Hutchings who was a large advocate for Yosemite tourism, he and many others considered the Indigenous presence as one of Yosemite's greatest attractions.<ref name="Spence" />
[[Wawona, California|Wawona]] was an early Indian encampment for Nuchu and Ahwahneechee Natives that were captured and relocated to a reservation on the Fresno River by the Mariposa Battalion and James Savage in March 1851.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Sargent |first=Shirley |date=1961 |title=Wawona's Yesterdays |url=https://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/wawonas_yesterdays/indians.html}}</ref> Settler [[Galen Clark]] discovered the [[Mariposa Grove]] of [[giant sequoia]] in Wawona in 1857. He had simple lodgings built, and roads to the area. In 1879, the [[Wawona Hotel]] was built to serve tourists visiting Mariposa Grove.<ref>{{cite book |title=Wawona Hotel Complex Cultural Landscape Report , Yosemite National Park |date=August 2012 |publisher=Mundus Bishop for National Park Service |pages=15}}</ref> As tourism increased, so did the number of trails and hotels developed by people intending to build on the trade.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Schaffer |first1=Jeffrey |title=Yosemite National Park: A complete hiker's guide |date=June 2006 |publisher=Wilderness Press |location=Berkley, CA|isbn=0899973833 |page=11 |edition=5 |url=https://www.google.com/books/edition/Yosemite_National_Park/Z4fSi0EjFHoC?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=Yosemite+more+hotels+as+tourism+increased&pg=PA11&printsec=frontcover |access-date=31 August 2021}}</ref>
The [[Wawona Tree]], also known as the Tunnel Tree, was a famous giant sequoia that stood in the Mariposa Grove. It was {{convert|234|ft|m}} tall, and was {{convert|90|ft|m|abbr=on}} in circumference. When a carriage-wide tunnel was cut through the tree in 1881, it became even more popular as a tourist photo attraction. Everything from horse-drawn carriages in the late 19th century, to automobiles in the first part of the 20th century, traveled the road which passed through that tree. The tree was permanently weakened by the tunnel, and the Wawona Tree fell in 1969 under a heavy load of snow. It was estimated to have been 2,100 years old.<ref>{{cite web |title=The Myth of the Tree You Can Drive Through |url=https://www.nps.gov/seki/faqtunnel.htm |website=nps.gov |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=26 August 2021}}</ref>
Yosemite's first concession was established in 1884 when John Degnan and his wife established a bakery and store.{{sfn|NPS|1989|p=58}} In 1916, the National Park Service granted a 20-year concession to the Desmond Park Service Company. It bought out or built hotels, stores, camps, a dairy, a garage, and other park services.{{sfn|Greene|1987|p=360}} The [[Hotel Del Portal]] was completed in 1908 by a subsidiary corporation of the [[Yosemite Valley Railroad]]. It was located at [[El Portal, California]] just outside of Yosemite.<ref>{{Cite book|title=Yosemite Valley Railroad|last=Radanovich|first=Leroy |publisher=Arcadia Publishing Incorporated|year= 2010 |url=https://www.google.com/books/edition/Yosemite_Valley_Railroad/0BqfELO5QsQC?hl=en&gbpv=0|page=|isbn=9781439640333|access-date=2021-12-27}}</ref> Desmond changed its name to the Yosemite National Park Company in December 1917 and was reorganized in 1920.{{sfn|Greene|1987|pp=362, 364}}
The Curry Company had been started in 1899 by David and Jennie Curry to provide concessions in the park. They also founded Camp Curry, formerly known as Half Dome Village, now restored back to [[Curry Village, California|Curry Village]].{{sfn|Wuerthner|1994|p=40}}
Administrators in the National Park Service felt that limiting the number of concessionaires in each national park would be more financially sound. The Curry Company and its rival, the Yosemite National Park Company, were forced to merge in 1925 to form the [[Yosemite Park & Curry Company]] (YP&CC).{{sfn|Greene|1987|p=387}} The company built the [[Ahwahnee Hotel]] in 1926–27.<ref>{{cite journal|author=Gene Rose |title=The Ahwahnee: Yosemite Grandeur |journal=Skiing Heritage Journal |url=https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_x1gEAAAAMBAJ|date=March 2003|publisher=International Skiing History Association|pages=[https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_x1gEAAAAMBAJ/page/n20 21]|issn=1082-2895}}</ref>
===Yosemite Grant===
[[File:Map of Rail and Stage Routes to the Yosemite 1885.jpg|thumb|left|Map of rail and stage routes to Yosemite in 1885]]
[[File:Eadweard Muybridge - Pi-Wi-Ack (Shower of Stars), Vernal Fall, 400 Feet, Valley of Yosemite - Google Art Project.jpg|thumb|right|A view of the park and [[Vernal Falls]], photographed by photographer [[Eadweard Muybridge]] in 1872.]]
Concerned by the effects of commercial interests, prominent citizens including Galen Clark and Senator [[John Conness]] advocated for protection of the area. A park bill was prepared with the assistance of the [[General Land Office]] in the [[United States Department of the Interior|Interior Department]].<ref>{{cite journal|title=Yosemite: The Story of an Idea |author=Huth, Hans |journal=Sierra Club Bulletin |publisher=Sierra Club |issue=33 |pages=63–76 |url=http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/yosemite_story_of_an_idea.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120508220101/http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/yosemite_story_of_an_idea.html |archive-date=May 8, 2012 |date=March 1948 |access-date=April 20, 2011 |url-status=dead }}</ref> The bill passed both houses of the [[38th United States Congress]], and was signed by [[President of the United States|President]] [[Abraham Lincoln]] on June 30, 1864, creating the Yosemite Grant.<ref name="Schaffer48">{{harvnb|Schaffer|1999|p=48}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|chapter-url=http://constitution.org/uslaw/sal/013_statutes_at_large.pdf|page=325|chapter=Thirty-Eighth Congress, Session I, Chap. 184 (June 30, 1864): An Act authorizing a Grant to the State of California of the "Yo-Semite Valley" and of the Land embracing the "Mariposa Big Tree Grove"|title=[[United States Statutes at Large|The Statutes At Large]], Treaties, and Proclamations of the United States of America from December 1863, to December 1865|editor=[[George P. Sanger|Sanger, George P.]]|volume=13|location=Boston|publisher=Little, Brown and Company|year=1866|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111116010746/http://constitution.org/uslaw/sal/013_statutes_at_large.pdf|archive-date=November 16, 2011}}</ref> This is the first instance of park land being set aside specifically for preservation and public use by action of the U.S. federal government, and set a precedent for the 1872 creation of [[Yellowstone National Park|Yellowstone]] as the first [[national park]].<ref name = "historyculture">{{cite web | title = History & Culture | publisher = United States National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/historyculture/index.htm | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref> Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove were ceded to [[California]] as a [[state park]], and a board of commissioners was proclaimed two years later.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.150.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=27539|title=Yosemite "State Park"|website=www.150.parks.ca.gov}}</ref>
Galen Clark was appointed by the commission as the Grant's first guardian, but neither Clark nor the commissioners had the authority to evict [[Homestead Act|homesteaders]] (which included Hutchings).<ref name="Schaffer48"/> The issue was not settled until 1872 when the homesteader land holdings were invalidated by the U.S. Supreme Court.<ref>''Hutchings v. Low'' {{ussc|82|77|1872}}</ref> Clark and the reigning commissioners were ousted in 1880, this dispute also reaching the Supreme Court in 1880.<ref>''Ashburner v. California'' {{ussc|103|575|1880}}</ref> The two Supreme Court decisions affecting management of the Yosemite Grant are considered important precedents in land management law.<ref>{{cite book |first=Alfred |last=Runte |year=1990 |title=Yosemite : The Embattled Wilderness |url=https://archive.org/details/yosemiteembattle00runt |url-access=registration |location=Lincoln |publisher=University of Nebraska Press |isbn=0803289413 |pages=34–35, 50}}</ref> Hutchings became the new park guardian.<ref name="Schaffer49"/>
Access to the park by tourists improved in the early years of the park, and conditions in the Valley were made more hospitable. Tourism significantly increased after the [[First Transcontinental Railroad]] was completed in 1869, but the long horseback ride to reach the area was a deterrent.<ref name="Schaffer48"/> Three [[stagecoach]] roads were built in the mid-1870s to provide better access for the growing number of visitors to Yosemite Valley.<ref>{{cite book| url=https://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/olmsted/report.html | title=Yosemite and the Mariposa Grove: A Preliminary Report |year=1865|first=Frederick|last=Law Olmsted}}</ref>
[[John Muir]] was a Scottish-born American naturalist and explorer. It was because of Muir that many National Parks were left untouched, such as Yosemite Valley National Park. One of the most significant camping trips Muir took was in 1903 with then president Theodore Roosevelt. This trip persuaded Roosevelt to return "Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove to federal protection as part of Yosemite National Park".<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.pbs.org/nationalparks/people/historical/muir/|work=The National Parks: America's Best Idea|title=People – John Muir |publisher=PBS}}</ref>
Muir wrote articles popularizing the area and increasing scientific interest in it. Muir was one of the first to theorize that the major landforms in Yosemite Valley were created by large alpine glaciers, bucking established scientists such as [[Josiah Whitney]], who regarded Muir as an amateur.<ref name="Schaffer49">{{harvnb|Schaffer|1999|p=49}}</ref> Muir wrote scientific papers on the area's biology. Landscape architect [[Frederick Law Olmsted]] emphasized the importance of conservation of Yosemite Valley.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Olmsted |first1=Frederick Law |title=Olmsted Report on Management of Yosemite, 1865 |url=https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/anps/anps_1b.htm |website=National Park Service |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=1 September 2021}}</ref>
===Increased protection efforts===
{{multiple image
| align = right
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| header =
| image1 = Galen Clark in the Big Tree Grove.jpeg
| width1 = 150
| alt1 =
| caption1 = Early settler, [[Galen Clark]]
| image2 = Muir and Roosevelt restored.jpg
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| caption2 = [[Theodore Roosevelt]] and [[John Muir]] on Glacier Point
}}
Overgrazing of meadows (especially by sheep), logging of giant sequoia, and other damage caused Muir to become an advocate for further protection. Muir convinced prominent guests of the importance of putting the area under federal protection; one such guest was [[Robert Underwood Johnson]], editor of ''[[Century Magazine]]''. Muir and Johnson lobbied Congress for the Act that created Yosemite National Park on October 1, 1890.<ref name="Schaffer50">{{harvnb|Schaffer|1999|p=50}}</ref> The State of California, however, retained control of Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove. Muir's writings raised awareness about the damage caused by sheep grazing, and he actively campaigned to virtually eliminate grazing from the Yosemite's high-country ecosystem.<ref>{{cite web |title=Yosemite |url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/historyculture/muir.htm |website=nps.gov |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=1 September 2021}}</ref>
The newly created national park came under the jurisdiction of the United States Army's Troop I of the [[4th Cavalry Regiment (United States)|4th Cavalry]] on May 19, 1891, which set up camp in Wawona with Captain [[Abram Wood|Abram Epperson Wood]] as acting superintendent.<ref name="Schaffer50"/> By the late 1890s, sheep grazing was no longer a problem, and the Army made other improvements. The cavalry could not intervene to ease the worsening condition of Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove. From 1899 to 1913, cavalry regiments of the Western Department, including the all Black [[9th Cavalry Regiment (United States)|9th Cavalry]] (known as the "Buffalo Soldiers") and the [[1st Cavalry Regiment (United States)|1st Cavalry]], stationed two troops at Yosemite.
[[File:View of Tutocanula Pass Yosemite California by Carleton Watkins.jpg|thumb|[[Bridalveil Fall]] and [[El Capitan]], by [[Carleton Watkins]] ({{circa|1880}})]]
Muir and his [[Sierra Club]] continued to lobby the government and influential people for the creation of a unified Yosemite National Park. In May 1903, President [[Theodore Roosevelt]] camped with Muir near [[Glacier Point]] for three days. On that trip, Muir convinced Roosevelt to take control of Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove away from California and return it to the federal government. In 1906, Roosevelt signed a bill that did precisely that.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.nps.gov/jomu/learn/historyculture/people.htm#onthisPage-2|title=John Muir and President Roosevelt|work=John Muir National Historic Site, California|publisher=National Park Service|access-date=2021-08-31}}</ref>
===National Park Service===
The [[National Park Service]] was formed in 1916, and Yosemite was transferred to that agency's jurisdiction. Tuolumne Meadows Lodge, [[Tioga Pass Road]], and campgrounds at Tenaya and Merced lakes were also completed in 1916.<ref name="Schaffer52">{{harvnb|Schaffer|1999|p=52}}</ref> Automobiles started to enter the park in ever-increasing numbers following the construction of all-weather highways to the park. The Yosemite Museum was founded in 1926 through the efforts of [[Ansel Franklin Hall]].{{sfn|NPS|1989|p=117}} In the 1920s, the museum featured Native Americans practicing traditional crafts, and many of the Southern Sierra Miwok continued to live in Yosemite Valley until they were completely evicted from Yosemite National Park in the 1960s.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.fresnobee.com/news/special-reports/yosemite-at-150/article19521750.html|title=American Indians share their Yosemite story}}</ref> Although the National Park Service helped create the Yosemite Museum which showcased some Indigenous presence at the time, its early actions and organizational values were detrimental to the Yosemite Natives and the Ahwahneechee.<ref name=":1" /> The National Park Service in the early 20th century criticized and even restricted the expression of Indigenous culture and behavior in Yosemite, for instance Park officials penalized Natives for playing games and drinking during the Indian Field Days of 1924.<ref name="Spence" /> The NPS had more direct and devastating impacts on the Yosemite Natives though. In 1929, Park Superintendent Charles G. Thomson concluded that the Indian village was aesthetically unpleasant and was limiting white settler development. Thomson eventually ordered the camp be burned down.<ref name=":1" /> In 1969, many Natives in the Indian village were forced to leave in search of work as a result of the decline in tourism. The NPS demolished those empty houses, evicted the remaining people from their homes, and destroyed the entire village.<ref name=":1" /> This was the last Indigenous settlement to exist within Yosemite's Valley and the National Park, effectively removing all the Ahwahneechee People and other Yosemite Natives from their traditional homelands.<ref name=":1" /><ref name="miwuk" />
In 1903, a dam in the northern portion of the park was proposed. Located in the [[Hetch Hetchy Valley]], its purpose was to provide water and [[hydroelectric power]] to [[San Francisco, California|San Francisco]]. Muir and the Sierra Club opposed the project, while others, including [[Gifford Pinchot]], supported it.<ref>{{cite journal |last=Moseley |first=W. G. |year=2009 |title=Beyond Knee-Jerk Environmental Thinking: Teaching Geographic Perspectives on Conservation, Preservation and the Hetch Hetchy Valley Controversy |journal=Journal of Geography in Higher Education |volume=33 |issue=3 |pages=433–51 |doi=10.1080/03098260902982492 |s2cid=143538071 }}</ref> In 1913, the U.S. Congress authorized the [[O'Shaughnessy Dam (California)|O'Shaughnessy Dam]] through passage of the [[Raker Act]].<ref name="Schaffer51">{{harvnb|Schaffer|1999|p=51}}</ref>
[[File:O'Shaughnessy Dam.jpg|thumb|left|[[O'Shaughnessy Dam (California)|O'Shaughnessy Dam]] in [[Hetch Hetchy]] Valley]]
In the late 1920s a [[Bids for Olympic Games#All-time Winter Olympics bids|bid]] for Yosemite for the [[1932 Winter Olympics]] was put forward. Ultimately, the 1932 Winter Olympics were awarded to [[Lake Placid, New York]].<ref name="olympics1932">{{cite web|url=http://www.destination360.com/north-america/us/california/badger-pass-ski-resort |title=Badger Pass Ski Resort –Badger Pass Yosemite |publisher=Destination360.com |access-date=April 1, 2012}}</ref> In 1937, conservationist [[Rosalie Edge]], head of the Emergency Conservation Committee (ECC), successfully lobbied Congress to purchase about 8,000 acres of old-growth sugar pines on the perimeter of Yosemite National Park that were to be logged.<ref>{{cite book |last=Furmansky |first=Dyana Z. |year=2009 |title=Rosalie Edge, Hawk of Mercy: The Activist Who Saved Nature from the Conservationists |url=https://archive.org/details/rosalieedgehawko00zasl |url-access=registration |publisher=University of Georgia Press |isbn=978-0820336763 |pages = 200–07}}</ref>
In 1984, preservationists persuaded Congress to designate {{convert|677600|acre}}, or about 89 percent of the park, as the Yosemite Wilderness—a highly protected [[wilderness area]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/legal/parklaws/1/laws1-volume1-appendix.pdf |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120203175920/http://www.nps.gov/legal/parklaws/1/laws1-volume1-appendix.pdf |archive-date=February 3, 2012 |title=California Wilderness Act of 1984 |author=98th U.S. Congress |year=1984 |access-date=May 8, 2010 |url-status=dead }}</ref> The Park Service has reduced artificial inducements to visit the park, such as the ''[[Yosemite Firefall|Firefall]]'', in which red-hot embers were pushed off a cliff near Glacier Point at night. [[Traffic congestion]] and parking in Yosemite Valley during the summer months has become a concern.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Sahagun |first1=Louis |title=Iconic Yosemite National Park is seeing more vehicles than ever clogging its roads |url=https://www.sentinelsource.com/news/environment/iconic-yosemite-national-park-is-seeing-more-vehicles-than-ever/article_05f3470f-4cef-57a3-bb4e-1426e7e9f02d.html |access-date=7 September 2021 |work=Los Angeles Times |date=26 September 2017}}</ref>
In 2016, [[The Trust for Public Land]] purchased Ackerson Meadow, a 400-acre tract on the western edge of Yosemite National Park, for $2.3 million in order to preserve habitat and protect the area from development. Ackerson Meadow was originally included in the proposed 1890 park boundary but never acquired by the federal government. The purchase and donation of the meadow was made possible through a cooperative effort by the Trust for Public Land, the National Park Service, and Yosemite Conservancy. On September 7, 2016, the National Park Service accepted the donation of the land, making the meadow the largest addition to Yosemite since 1949.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/news/ackersonaddition.htm|title=Ackerson Meadow Gifted to Yosemite National Park|author=National Park Service|access-date=September 8, 2016}}</ref>
==Geography==
{{Main|Geography of the Yosemite area}}
[[File:Yosemite National Park Map.png|thumb|upright|Park map]]
Yosemite National Park is located in the central Sierra Nevada of California. Three wilderness areas are adjacent to Yosemite: the [[Ansel Adams Wilderness]] to the southeast, the [[Hoover Wilderness]] to the northeast, and the [[Emigrant Wilderness]] to the north.
The {{convert|1189|mi2|km2|abbr=on}} park is roughly the size of the U.S. state of [[Rhode Island]] and contains thousands of lakes and ponds, {{convert|1600|mi|km}} of streams, {{convert|800|mi|km}} of hiking trails, and {{convert|350|mi|km}} of roads.<ref name="nature">{{cite web | title =Nature & Science | publisher =United States National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/naturescience/index.htm | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref> Two federally designated [[Wild and Scenic River]]s, the [[Merced River|Merced]] and the Tuolumne, begin within Yosemite's borders and flow westward through the Sierra foothills, into the [[California Central Valley|Central Valley of California]]. On average, about 4 million people visit the park each year,<ref name="visits"/> with most visitor use concentrated in the seven-square-mile (18 km<sup>2</sup>) area of [[Yosemite Valley]].<ref name="nature"/>
===Rocks and erosion===
[[File:Yosemite Valley - El Capitan from Central Pillar of Frenzy - 2.JPG|thumb|left|upright=1.4|[[El Capitan]], a granite monolith on Yosemite Valley's northern escarpment]]
Almost all of the landforms in the Yosemite area are cut from the granitic rock of the [[Sierra Nevada Batholith]] (a [[batholith]] is a large mass of intrusive [[igneous rock]] that formed deep below the surface).<ref name="GeologyNP329">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=329}}</ref> About five percent of the park's landforms (mostly in its eastern margin near [[Mount Dana]]) are [[metamorphic rock|metamorphosed]] [[volcanic rock|volcanic]] and [[sedimentary rock]]s.<ref name="landforms">{{cite web | publisher = United States National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/geo_landforms.htm | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20090514004436/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/geo_landforms.htm | archive-date = May 14, 2009 | title = Geology: The Making of the Landscape | date = December 22, 2004 | access-date =January 27, 2007 }}</ref> These rocks are called ''[[roof pendants]]'' because they were once the roof of the underlying granitic rock.<ref>{{cite web|publisher=United States Geological Survey |url=http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/geology/publications/pp/160/sec2a.htm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121022231626/http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/geology/publications/pp/160/sec2a.htm |archive-date=October 22, 2012 |title=Geological Survey Professional Paper 160: Geologic History of the Yosemite Valley – The Sierra Block |date=November 28, 2006 |access-date=January 27, 2007 |url-status=dead }}</ref>
[[Erosion]] acting upon different types of uplift-created joint and fracture systems is responsible for creating the valleys, canyons, [[dome (geology)|domes]], and other features we see today. These joints and fracture systems do not move, and are therefore not [[fault (geology)|faults]].<ref name="GeologyNP331">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=331}}</ref> Spacing between joints is controlled by the amount of [[silica]] in the granite and [[granodiorite]] rocks; more silica tends to create a more resistant rock, resulting in larger spaces between joints and fractures.<ref name="GeologyUSP220">{{harvnb|Kiver|Harris|1999|p=220}}</ref>
Pillars and columns, such as [[Washington Column (Yosemite)|Washington Column]] and [[Lost Arrow Spire|Lost Arrow]], are created by cross joints. Erosion acting on master joints is responsible for creating valleys and later canyons.<ref name="GeologyUSP220"/> The single most erosive force over the last few million years has been large alpine glaciers, which have turned the previously V-shaped river-cut valleys into U-shaped glacial-cut canyons (such as Yosemite Valley and Hetch Hetchy Valley). [[Exfoliation (geology)|Exfoliation]] (caused by the tendency of [[crystal]]s in [[pluton]]ic rocks to expand at the surface) acting on granitic rock with widely spaced joints is responsible for creating domes such as [[Half Dome]] and [[North Dome]] and inset arches like Royal Arches.<ref name="GeologyNP332"/>
===Popular features===
[[File:The spiny crown of Cathedral Peak, Yosemite National Park, California.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Cathedral Peak (California)|Cathedral Peak]]]]
Yosemite Valley represents only one percent of the park area, but this is where most visitors arrive and stay. The [[Tunnel View]] is the first view of the Valley for many visitors and is extensively photographed. [[El Capitan]], a prominent granite cliff that looms over Yosemite Valley, is one of the most popular rock climbing destinations in the world because of its diverse range of climbing routes in addition to its year-round accessibility. [[Granite dome]]s such as [[Sentinel Dome]] and [[Half Dome]] rise {{convert|3000|and|4800|ft|m}}, respectively, above the valley floor. The park contains dozens of other [[Granite Domes of Yosemite National Park|granite domes]].<ref>{{cite news |last1=Cross |first1=Robert |title=Mountain majesty Yosemite: The California national park is home to some of the country's most scenic natural wonders. |url=https://www.baltimoresun.com/news/bs-xpm-1996-05-26-1996147114-story.html |access-date=7 September 2021 |work=The Baltimore Sun |date=26 May 1996}}</ref>
The high country of Yosemite contains beautiful areas such as [[Tuolumne Meadows]], [[Dana Meadows (California)|Dana Meadows]], the [[Clark Range (California)|Clark Range]], the [[Cathedral Range]], and the [[Kuna Crest]]. The Sierra crest and the [[Pacific Crest Trail]] run through Yosemite, with peaks of red metamorphic rock, such as Mount Dana and [[Mount Gibbs]], and granite peaks, such as [[Mount Conness]]. [[Mount Lyell (California)|Mount Lyell]] is the highest point in the park, standing at {{convert|13,120|ft|m}}. The [[Lyell Glacier]] is the largest glacier in Yosemite National Park and is one of the few remaining in the Sierra Nevada today.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Yosemite National Park's Largest Glacier Stagnant – Yosemite National Park (U.S. National Park Service)|url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/news/lyellglacier.htm|access-date=2021-05-06|website=www.nps.gov|language=en}}</ref>
The park has three groves of ancient giant sequoia (''Sequoiadendron giganteum'') trees; the [[Mariposa Grove]] (200 trees), the [[Tuolumne Grove]] (25 trees), and the [[Merced Grove]] (20 trees).<ref name="GeologyNP340"/> This species grows larger in volume than any other and is one of the tallest and longest-lived.<ref name="Kiver227">{{harvnb|Kiver|Harris|1999|p=227}}</ref>
===Water and ice===
[[File:Valley View Yosemite August 2013 002.jpg|thumb|left|The [[Merced River]] flowing through [[Yosemite Valley]], a [[U-shaped valley]]]]
The Tuolumne and Merced River systems originate along the crest of the [[Sierra Nevada (U.S.)|Sierra Nevada]] in the park and have carved river canyons {{convert|3000|to|4000|ft|m}} deep. The Tuolumne River drains the entire northern portion of the park, an area of approximately {{convert|680|mi2|km2}}. The Merced River begins in the park's southern peaks, primarily the Cathedral and Clark Ranges, and drains an area of approximately {{convert|511|mi2|km2}}.<ref name = "water overview">{{cite web | title = Water Overview | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/water.htm | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070107180730/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/water.htm|archive-date=January 7, 2007 | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | date = December 22, 2004 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref>
Hydrologic processes, including [[glaciation]], flooding, and fluvial geomorphic response, have been fundamental in creating landforms in the park.<ref name = "water overview"/> The park also contains approximately 3,200 lakes (greater than 100 m<sup>2</sup>), two [[reservoir (water)|reservoirs]], and {{convert|1700|mi|km}} of streams, all of which help form these two large [[Drainage basin|watersheds]].<ref name = "hydrology">{{cite web | title = Hydrology and Watersheds | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wtr_hydrology.htm | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20100728075552/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wtr_hydrology.htm | archive-date = July 28, 2010 | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | date = December 22, 2004 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref> [[Wetland]]s in Yosemite occur in valley bottoms throughout the park, and are often hydrologically linked to nearby lakes and rivers through seasonal flooding and groundwater movement. Meadow habitats, distributed at elevations from {{convert|3000|to|11000|ft|m}} in the park, are generally wetlands, as are the [[riparian]] habitats found on the banks of Yosemite's numerous streams and rivers.<ref name = "wetland vegetation">{{cite web | title = Wetland Vegetation | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/veg_wetlands.htm | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20100419080619/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/veg_wetlands.htm | archive-date = April 19, 2010 | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | date = December 22, 2004 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref>
[[File:Bridalveil Fall and valley.JPG|thumb|[[Bridalveil Fall]] flows from a U-shaped hanging valley that was created by a tributary glacier.]]
Yosemite is famous for its [[List of waterfalls in Yosemite National Park|high concentration of waterfalls]] in a small area. Numerous sheer drops, glacial steps and [[hanging valley]]s in the park provide many places for waterfalls to exist, especially during April, May, and June (the snowmelt season). Located in Yosemite Valley, the [[Yosemite Falls]] is the highest in North America at {{convert|2425|ft|m}}. Also in Yosemite Valley is the much lower volume [[Ribbon Fall]]s, which has the highest single vertical drop, {{convert|1612|ft|m}}.<ref name="Kiver227"/> Perhaps the most prominent of the Yosemite Valley waterfalls is [[Bridalveil Fall (Yosemite)|Bridalveil Fall]], which is the waterfall seen from the Tunnel View viewpoint at the east end of the Wawona Tunnel. Wapama Falls in Hetch Hetchy Valley is another notable waterfall. Hundreds of [[ephemeral]] waterfalls can become active in the park after heavy rains or melting snowpack.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Krieger |first1=Lisa |title=Waterfalls are roaring this spring at Yosemite |url=https://www.mercurynews.com/2019/05/17/waterfalls-are-roaring-this-spring-at-yosemite-and-here-are-the-best-right-now/ |access-date=9 September 2021 |work=San Jose Mercury News |date=17 May 2019}}</ref>
All glaciers in the park are relatively small glaciers that occupy areas that are in almost permanent shade, such as north- and northeast-facing [[cirque (landform)|cirques]]. [[Lyell Glacier]] is the largest glacier in Yosemite (the Palisades Glaciers are the largest in the Sierra Nevada) and covers {{convert|160|acre}}.<ref name="GeologyUSP228">{{harvnb|Kiver|Harris|1999|p=228}}</ref> None of the Yosemite glaciers are a remnant of the [[Last Glacial Period|Ice Age]] alpine glaciers responsible for sculpting the Yosemite landscape. Instead, they were formed during one of the [[neoglacial]] episodes that have occurred since the thawing of the Ice Age (such as the [[Little Ice Age]]).<ref name="GeologyNP340">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=340}}</ref> Many Yosemite glaciers, such as the Black Mountain Glacier that was discovered in 1871 and gone by the mid-1980s, have disappeared.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Sahagun |first1=Louis |title=Yosemite's largest ice mass is melting fast |url=https://www.latimes.com/local/la-xpm-2013-oct-01-la-me-glaciers-20131002-story.html |access-date=14 September 2021 |work=Los Angeles Times |date=1 October 2013}}</ref> Yosemite's final two glaciers – the Lyell and Maclure glaciers – have receded over the last 100 years and are expected by scientists to eventually disappear as a result of natural melting and climate change.<ref>{{cite web |title=Yosemite – Nature – Geology – Glaciers |url=https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/nature/glaciers.htm |website=nps.gov |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=14 September 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Liberatore |title=Glaciers in Yosemite |url=https://www.myyosemitepark.com/things-to-do/natural-wonders/mountains-landscapes/when-glaciers-ruled/ |access-date=14 September 2021 |publisher=Yosemite National Park trips |date=15 March 2013}}</ref>
===Climate===
[[File:El Capitan at fall.jpg|thumb|left|upright|Yosemite in [[autumn]]]]
Yosemite has a [[Mediterranean climate]] ([[Köppen climate classification]] ''Csa''), meaning most precipitation falls during the mild winter, and the other seasons are nearly dry (less than three percent of precipitation falls during the long, hot summers). Because of [[orographic lift]], precipitation increases with elevation up to {{convert|8000|ft|m}} where it slowly decreases to the crest. Precipitation amounts vary from {{convert|36|in|mm}} at {{convert|4000|ft|m}} elevation to {{convert|50|in|mm}} at {{convert|8600|ft|m}}. Snow does not typically persist on the ground until November in the high country. It accumulates all winter and into March or early April.<ref name="climate">{{cite web | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wtr_climate.htm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070101113353/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wtr_climate.htm|archive-date=January 1, 2007 | title = Climate | date = December 22, 2004 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref>
Mean daily temperatures range from {{convert|25|°F|0}} to {{convert|53|°F|0}} at Tuolumne Meadows at {{convert|8600|ft|m}}. At the Wawona Entrance (elevation {{convert|5130|ft|m|disp=or}}), mean daily temperature ranges from {{convert|36|to|67|°F|°C}}. At the lower elevations below {{convert|5000|ft|m}}, temperatures are hotter; the mean daily high temperature at Yosemite Valley (elevation {{convert|3966|ft|m|disp=or}}) varies from {{convert|46|to|90|°F|°C}}. At elevations above {{convert|8000|ft|m}}, the hot, dry summer temperatures are moderated by frequent summer thunderstorms, along with snow that can persist into July. The combination of dry vegetation, low relative humidity, and thunderstorms results in frequent lightning-caused [[wildfire|fires]] as well.<ref name="climate"/>
At the park headquarters, with an elevation of {{convert|4018|ft}}, January averages {{convert|38.0|°F|1}}, while July averages {{convert|73.3|°F|1}}, though in summer the nights are much cooler than the hot days. There are an average of 45.5 days with highs of {{convert|90|°F|0}} or higher and an average of 105.6 nights with freezing temperatures. Freezing temperatures have been recorded in every month of the year. The record high temperature was {{convert|112|°F|0}} on July 22 and July 24, 1915, while the record low temperature was {{convert|-7|°F|0}} on January 1, 2009. Average annual precipitation is nearly {{convert|37|in|0}}, falling on 67 days. The wettest year was 1983 with {{convert|66.06|in|mm}} and the driest year was 1976 with {{convert|14.84|in|mm}}. The most precipitation in one month was {{convert|29.61|in|mm}} in December 1955 and the most in one day was {{convert|6.92|in|mm}} on December 23, 1955. Average annual snowfall is {{convert|39.4|in|m}}. The snowiest winter was 1948–1949 with {{convert|176.5|in|m}}. The most snow in one month was {{convert|175.0|in|m}} in January 1993.
{{Weather box
|location = Yosemite Park Headquarters, California, 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1905–present
|single line = Y
|collapsed = Y
| Jan high F = 47.5
| Feb high F = 51.2
| Mar high F = 56.7
| Apr high F = 63.1
| May high F = 70.5
| Jun high F = 80.5
| Jul high F = 89.2
| Aug high F = 89.0
| Sep high F = 83.0
| Oct high F = 70.9
| Nov high F = 56.0
| Dec high F = 45.9
|year high F = 67.0
|Jan mean F = 38.0
|Feb mean F = 40.7
|Mar mean F = 45.1
|Apr mean F = 50.4
|May mean F = 57.5
|Jun mean F = 65.8
|Jul mean F = 73.3
|Aug mean F = 72.9
|Sep mean F = 67.2
|Oct mean F = 56.1
|Nov mean F = 44.3
|Dec mean F = 36.8
|year mean F = 54.0
| Jan low F = 28.5
| Feb low F = 30.2
| Mar low F = 33.5
| Apr low F = 37.6
| May low F = 44.5
| Jun low F = 51.0
| Jul low F = 57.4
| Aug low F = 56.8
| Sep low F = 51.4
| Oct low F = 41.3
| Nov low F = 32.5
| Dec low F = 27.8
|year low F = 41.0
|Jan record high F = 72
|Feb record high F = 82
|Mar record high F = 90
|Apr record high F = 96
|May record high F = 99
|Jun record high F = 103
|Jul record high F = 112
|Aug record high F = 110
|Sep record high F = 108
|Oct record high F = 98
|Nov record high F = 86
|Dec record high F = 73
|year record high F =
|Jan record low F = -7
|Feb record low F = 1
|Mar record low F = 9
|Apr record low F = 12
|May record low F = 15
|Jun record low F = 22
|Jul record low F = 32
|Aug record low F = 32
|Sep record low F = 24
|Oct record low F = 19
|Nov record low F = 10
|Dec record low F = -1
|year record low F =
|precipitation colour = green
| Jan precipitation inch = 6.98
| Feb precipitation inch = 6.49
| Mar precipitation inch = 5.47
| Apr precipitation inch = 3.17
| May precipitation inch = 1.92
| Jun precipitation inch = 0.46
| Jul precipitation inch = 0.29
| Aug precipitation inch = 0.16
| Sep precipitation inch = 0.40
| Oct precipitation inch = 1.56
| Nov precipitation inch = 4.05
| Dec precipitation inch = 5.60
|year precipitation inch = 36.55
| unit precipitation days = 0.01 in
| Jan precipitation days = 8.9
| Feb precipitation days = 9.0
| Mar precipitation days = 11.0
| Apr precipitation days = 7.2
| May precipitation days = 6.4
| Jun precipitation days = 2.2
| Jul precipitation days = 1.1
| Aug precipitation days = 0.9
| Sep precipitation days = 2.0
| Oct precipitation days = 3.5
| Nov precipitation days = 5.9
| Dec precipitation days = 8.5
| year precipitation days = 66.6
|Jan snow inch = 17.7
|Feb snow inch = 4.2
|Mar snow inch = 5.7
|Apr snow inch = 0.9
|May snow inch = 0.0
|Jun snow inch = 0.0
|Jul snow inch = 0.0
|Aug snow inch = 0.0
|Sep snow inch = 0.0
|Oct snow inch = 0.0
|Nov snow inch = 3.8
|Dec snow inch = 7.1
|year snow inch =
|unit snow days = 0.1 in
|Jan snow days = 1.9
|Feb snow days = 1.2
|Mar snow days = 1.6
|Apr snow days = 0.6
|May snow days = 0.0
|Jun snow days = 0.0
|Jul snow days = 0.0
|Aug snow days = 0.0
|Sep snow days = 0.0
|Oct snow days = 0.0
|Nov snow days = 0.6
|Dec snow days = 2.1
|year snow days = 7.8
|source 1 = NOAA<ref>{{cite web
| url = https://w2.weather.gov/climate/xmacis.php?wfo=hnx
| title = NOWData – NOAA Online Weather Data
| publisher = [[National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration]]
| access-date = June 8, 2021
}}</ref><ref>{{cite web
| url = https://www.ncei.noaa.gov/access/services/data/v1?dataset=normals-monthly-1991-2020&startDate=0001-01-01&endDate=9996-12-31&stations=USC00049855&format=pdf
| title = Summary of Monthly Normals 1991–2020
| publisher = [[National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration]]
| access-date = June 8, 2021
}}</ref> }}
{|style="width:100%;text-align:center;line-height:1.2em;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto" class="wikitable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
|-
!Colspan=14|Climate data for Yosemite National Park
|-
!Month
!Jan
!Feb
!Mar
!Apr
!May
!Jun
!Jul
!Aug
!Sep
!Oct
!Nov
!Dec
!style="border-left-width:medium"|Year
|-
!Mean daily daylight hours
|style="background:#F0F011;color:#000000;"|10.0
|style="background:#F7F722;color:#000000;"|11.0
|style="background:#FFFF33;color:#000000;"|12.0
|style="background:#FFFF44;color:#000000;"|13.0
|style="background:#FFFF55;color:#000000;"|14.0
|style="background:#FFFF66;color:#000000;"|15.0
|style="background:#FFFF55;color:#000000;"|14.0
|style="background:#FFFF55;color:#000000;"|14.0
|style="background:#FFFF33;color:#000000;"|12.0
|style="background:#F7F722;color:#000000;"|11.0
|style="background:#F0F011;color:#000000;"|10.0
|style="background:#F0F011;color:#000000;"|10.0
|style="background:#FFFF35;color:#000000;border-left-width:medium"|12.2
|-
!Average [[Ultraviolet index]]
|style="background:#289500;color:#000000;"|2
|style="background:#f7e400;color:#000000;"|4
|style="background:#f85900;color:#000000;"|6
|style="background:#f85900;color:#000000;"|7
|style="background:#d8001d;color:#000000;"|9
|style="background:#d8001d;color:#000000;"|10
|style="background:#6b49c8;color:#000000;"|11
|style="background:#d8001d;color:#000000;"|10
|style="background:#d8001d;color:#000000;"|8
|style="background:#f7e400;color:#000000;"|5
|style="background:#f7e400;color:#000000;"|3
|style="background:#289500;color:#000000;"|2
|style="background:#f85900;color:#000000;border-left-width:medium"|6.4
|-
!Colspan=14 style="background:#f8f9fa;font-weight:normal;font-size:95%;"|Source: Weather Atlas<ref name="Weather Atlas">{{cite web |url=https://www.weather-us.com/en/california-usa/yosemite-national-park-climate |title=Yosemite National Park, California, USA – Monthly weather forecast and Climate data |publisher=Weather Atlas |access-date=26 January 2019 }}</ref>
|}
{{Clear}}
==Geology==
{{Main|Geology of the Yosemite area}}
===Tectonic and volcanic activity===
[[File:Map of Yosemite National Park.svg|thumb|Generalized geologic map of the Yosemite area (based on a [[United States Geological Survey|USGS]] image)]]
The area of the park was astride a [[passive continental margin]] during the [[Precambrian]] and early [[Paleozoic]].<ref name="GeologyNP328"/> Sediment was derived from continental sources and was deposited in shallow water. These rocks have since been deformed and metamorphosed.<ref>{{cite journal|title=Review of Late Jurassic-early Miocene sedimentationand plate-tectonic evolution of northern California: illuminatingexample of an accretionary margin|first=WG|last=Ernst|journal=Chin. J. Geochem.|year=2015|volume=34|issue=2|pages=123–42|doi=10.1007/s11631-015-0042-x|s2cid=55662231|url=http://english.gyig.cas.cn/pu/papers_CJG/201505/P020150515379493168537.pdf}}</ref><ref>{{cite conference|title=Paleotectonic and paleogeographic significance of the Calaveras Complex, western Sierra Nevada, California|last1=Schweickert|first1=Richard A|last2=Saleeby|first2=Jason B|last3=Tobisch|first3=Othmar T|last4=Wright|first4=William H., III|year=1977|conference=Paleozoic paleogeography of the western United States : Pacific Coast Paleogeography Symposium I|publisher=Society of Economic Paleontologists and Mineralogists|location=Los Angeles, California|pages=381–94|url=https://authors.library.caltech.edu/53867/}}</ref>
Heat generated from the [[Farallon Plate]] [[subduction|subducting]] below the [[North American Plate]] led to the creation of an [[island arc]] of volcanoes on the west coast of proto-North America between the late [[Devonian]] and [[Permian]] periods.<ref name="GeologyNP328">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=328}}</ref> Material accreted onto the western edge of North America, and mountains were raised to the east in Nevada.<ref>{{cite web|title=Yosemite National Park Geologic Resources Inventory Report|url=http://npshistory.com/publications/yose/nrr-2012-560.pdf|publisher=National Park Service|id=Natural Resource Report NPS/NRSS/GRD/NRR—2012/560|pages=43–44}}</ref>
The first phase of regional [[intrusion (geology)|plutonism]] started 210 million years ago in the late Triassic and continued throughout the Jurassic to about 150 million years before present ([[Before Present|BP]]).<ref name="GeologyNP329"/> Around the same time, the [[Nevadan orogeny]] built the Nevadan mountain range (also called the Ancestral Sierra Nevada) to a height of {{convert|15000|ft|m}}. This was directly part of the creation of the Sierra Nevada Batholith, and the resulting rocks were mostly granitic in composition and emplaced about {{convert|6|mi|km}} below the surface.<ref name="GeologyNP337">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=337}}</ref> The second major pluton emplacement phase lasted from about 120 million to 80 million years ago during the [[Cretaceous]].<ref name="GeologyNP329"/> This was part of the [[Sevier orogeny]].<ref>{{Cite journal|last1=Yonkee|first1=W. Adolph|last2=Weil|first2=Arlo Brandon|date=2015-11-01|title=Tectonic evolution of the Sevier and Laramide belts within the North American Cordillera orogenic system|journal=Earth-Science Reviews|language=en|volume=150|pages=531–93|doi=10.1016/j.earscirev.2015.08.001|bibcode=2015ESRv..150..531Y|issn=0012-8252|doi-access=free}}</ref>
Starting 20 million years ago (in the [[Cenozoic]]) and lasting until 5 million years ago, a now-extinct extension of [[Cascade Range]] volcanoes erupted, bringing large amounts of igneous material in the area. These igneous deposits blanketed the region north of the Yosemite region. Volcanic activity persisted past 5 million years BP east of the current park borders in the Mono Lake and [[Long Valley Caldera|Long Valley]] areas.<ref>{{cite book|title = Geology of the Sierra Nevada|last = Hill|first = Mary|location = Berkeley, California|publisher = University of California Press|year = 2006|page=270}}</ref>
===Uplift and erosion===
[[File:Half Dome from Glacier Point, Yosemite NP - Diliff.jpg|thumb|[[Exfoliation joint]]s cause erosion in granitic rocks, creating many [[Granite dome|domes]] including [[Half Dome]].]]
Starting 10 million years ago, vertical movement along the Sierra fault started to uplift the Sierra Nevada. Subsequent tilting of the Sierra block and the resulting accelerated uplift of the Sierra Nevada increased the [[gradient]] of western-flowing streams.<ref name="GeologyNP339">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=339}}</ref> The streams consequently ran faster and thus cut their valleys more quickly. Additional uplift occurred when major faults developed to the east, especially the creation of [[Owens Valley]] from [[Basin and Range Province|Basin and Range]]-associated extensional forces. Uplift of the Sierra accelerated again about two million years ago during the [[Pleistocene]].<ref>{{cite book |last1=Konigsmark |first1=Ted |title=Geologic Trips, Sierra Nevada |year=2002 |publisher=GeoPress |isbn=0966131657 |page=234 |url=http://www.geologictrips.com/sn/snttyv.pdf |access-date=22 September 2021}}</ref>
The uplifting and increased erosion exposed granitic rocks in the area to surface pressures, resulting in exfoliation (responsible for the rounded shape of the many domes in the park) and mass wasting following the numerous fracture joint planes (cracks; especially vertical ones) in the now solidified plutons.<ref name="GeologyNP332">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=332}}</ref> Pleistocene glaciers further accelerated this process and the larger ones transported the resulting [[scree|talus]] and [[till]] from valley floors.{{citation needed|date=September 2020}}
Numerous vertical joint planes controlled where and how fast erosion took place. Most of these long, linear and very deep cracks trend northeast or northwest and form parallel, often regularly spaced sets. They were created by uplift-associated pressure release and by the unloading of overlying rock via erosion.{{citation needed|date=September 2020}}
===Sculpting by glaciers===
[[File:Glacially polished granite.jpg|thumbnail|Glacially polished granite [[cirque]] in upper [[Tenaya Canyon]]]]
A series of glaciations further modified the region starting about 2 to 3 million years ago and ending sometime around 10,000 BP. At least four major glaciations have occurred in the Sierra Nevada, locally called the Sherwin (also called the pre-Tahoe), Tahoe, Tenaya, and Tioga.<ref name="GeologyNP339"/> The Sherwin glaciers were the largest, filling Yosemite and other valleys, while later stages produced much smaller glaciers. A Sherwin-age glacier was almost surely responsible for the major excavation and shaping of Yosemite Valley and other canyons in the area.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Volcanoes of the Eastern Sierra Nevada|url=https://sierra.sitehost.iu.edu/papers/2012/klapperich.html|access-date=2021-06-28|website=sierra.sitehost.iu.edu}}</ref>
Glacial systems reached depths of up to {{convert|4000|ft|m}} and left their marks in the Yosemite area. The longest glacier in the Yosemite area ran down the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River for {{convert|60|mi|km}}, passing well beyond Hetch Hetchy Valley. Merced Glacier flowed out of Yosemite Valley and into the Merced River Gorge. Lee Vining Glacier carved Lee Vining Canyon and emptied into Lake Russel (the much-enlarged ice age version of Mono Lake). Only the highest peaks, such as Mount Dana and Mount Conness, were not covered by glaciers. Retreating glaciers often left recessional [[moraine]]s that impounded lakes such as the {{convert|5.5|mi|km|0}} long Lake Yosemite (a shallow lake that periodically covered much of the floor of Yosemite Valley).<ref name="GeologyNP333">{{harvnb|Harris|1998|p=333}}</ref>
==Ecology==
{{Further|Ecology of the Sierra Nevada|List of plants of the Sierra Nevada (U.S.)}}
===Habitats===
[[File:Mule deer in Yosemite Valley.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Mule deer]] in Yosemite Valley]]
The park has an elevation range from {{convert|2127|to|13114|ft|m}} and contains five major [[life zone|vegetation zones]]: [[chaparral]] and [[oak]] woodland, [[Sierra Nevada lower montane forest|lower montane forest]], upper [[Montane ecosystems#Montane forests|montane forest]], [[Sierra Nevada subalpine zone|subalpine zone]], and [[alpine tundra|alpine]]. Of California's 7,000 plant species, approximately 50 percent occur in the Sierra Nevada and more than 20 percent are within Yosemite. The park contains suitable habitat for more than 160 rare plants, with rare local [[geology|geologic]] formations and unique [[soil]]s characterizing the restricted ranges many of these plants occupy.<ref name="naturehistory" />
With its scrubby sun-baked [[chaparral]], stately groves of pine, fir, and sequoia, and expanses of alpine woodlands and meadows, Yosemite National Park preserves a Sierra Nevada landscape as it prevailed before Euro-American settlement.<ref name="snepLateSuccessional">{{Cite book
| first1 = Jerry, F
| last1 = Franklin
| first2 = Jo Ann
| last2 = Fites-Kaufmann
| chapter = 21: Assessment of Late-Successional Forests of the Sierra Nevada
| year = 1996
| pages = 627–71
| title = Sierra Nevada Ecosystem Project. Final Report to Congress. Status of the Sierra Nevada Volume II: Assessments and Scientific Basis for Management Options
| url = http://pubs.usgs.gov/dds/dds-43/VOL_II/VII_C21.PDF | isbn=1887673016}}</ref> In contrast to surrounding lands, which have been significantly altered by logging, the park still contains some {{convert|225510|acre}} of [[old-growth forest]].<ref name="1993OldGrowthEstimates">{{Cite journal
| last1 = Bolsinger | first1 = Charles L.
| last2 = Waddell | first2 = Karen L.
| year = 1993
| title = Area of old-growth forests in California, Oregon, and Washington
| url = http://www.fs.fed.us/pnw/pubs/pnw_rb197.pdf
| publisher = [[United States Forest Service]], Pacific Northwest Research Station
| journal = Resource Bulletin | issue=197 |id=PNW-RB-197
}}</ref> Taken together, the park's varied [[habitat (ecology)|habitats]] support over 250 species of [[vertebrate]]s, which include fish, amphibians, reptiles, birds, and mammals.<ref name="wildlife">{{NPS| title = Wildlife Overview | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wildlife.htm | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070127153544/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wildlife.htm|archive-date=January 27, 2007 | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite Park Service | date = December 22, 2004 }}</ref>
Much of Yosemite's western boundary has habitats dominated by [[mixed coniferous forest]]s of [[ponderosa pine]], [[sugar pine]], [[incense cedar]], [[white fir]], [[Douglas fir]], and a few stands of giant sequoia, interspersed by areas of [[California black oak|black oak]] and [[Live oak|canyon live oak]]. A relatively high diversity of wildlife species is supported by these habitats, because of relatively mild, lower-elevation climate and the mixture of habitat types and plant species. Wildlife species typically found in these habitats include [[American black bear|black bear]], [[coyote]], [[raccoon]], [[Kingsnake|mountain kingsnake]], [[Gilbert's skink]], [[white-headed woodpecker]], [[bobcat]], [[North American river otter|river otter]], [[gray fox]], [[red fox]], [[brown creeper]], two species of skunk, [[North American cougar|cougar]], [[spotted owl]], and a wide variety of bat species.<ref name="wildlife"/>
Going higher in elevation, the coniferous forests become purer stands of [[Fir|red fir]], [[western white pine]], [[Jeffrey pine]], [[lodgepole pine]], and the occasional [[foxtail pine]]. Fewer wildlife species tend to be found in these habitats, because of their higher elevation and lower complexity. Species likely to be found include [[golden-mantled ground squirrel]], [[chickaree]], [[Fisher (animal)|fisher]], [[Steller's jay]], [[hermit thrush]], and [[northern goshawk]]. Reptiles are not common, but include [[rubber boa]], [[western fence lizard]], and [[northern alligator lizard]].<ref name = "wildlife"/>
[[File:Marmota flaviventris (Yellow Bellied Marmot), Yosemite NP - Diliff.jpg|thumb|left|[[Yellow-bellied marmot|Marmot]] in [[Tuolumne Meadows]]]]
As the landscape rises, trees become smaller and more sparse, with stands broken by areas of exposed granite. These include lodgepole pine, [[whitebark pine]], and [[mountain hemlock]] that, at highest elevations, give way to vast expanses of granite as treeline is reached. The climate in these habitats is harsh and the growing season is short, but species such as [[American pika|pika]], [[yellow-bellied marmot]], white-tailed [[jackrabbit]], [[Clark's nutcracker]], and [[black rosy finch]] are adapted to these conditions. Also, the treeless alpine habitats are the areas favored by [[Sierra Nevada bighorn sheep]]. This species, however, is now found in the Yosemite area only around Tioga Pass, where a small, reintroduced population exists.<ref name = "wildlife"/>
At a variety of elevations, meadows provide important, productive habitat for wildlife. Animals come to feed on the green [[Poaceae|grasses]] and use the flowing and standing water found in many meadows. Predators, in turn, are attracted to these areas. The interface between meadow and forest is also favored by many animal species because of the proximity of open areas for foraging and cover for protection. Species that are highly dependent upon meadow habitat include [[great grey owl]], [[willow flycatcher]], [[Yosemite toad]], and [[mountain beaver]].<ref name = "wildlife"/>
===Management issues===
[[File:YosemiteBlackBearTagged wb.jpg|thumb|A [[American black bear|black bear]] with an ear tag in Yosemite Valley]]
The black bears of Yosemite were once famous for breaking into parked cars to steal food. They were also an encouraged tourist sight for many years at the park's garbage dumps, where bears congregated to eat park visitors' garbage and tourists gathered to photograph the bears. Increasing encounters between bears and humans and increasing damage to property led to an aggressive campaign to discourage bears from relying on human food or interacting with people and their property. The open-air dumps were closed; all trash receptacles were replaced with [[bear-resistant food storage container|bear-proof]] receptacles; all campgrounds were equipped with bear-proof food lockers so that people would not leave food in their vehicles, which were easy targets for the powerful and resourceful bears. Because bears who show aggression towards people usually are eventually destroyed, park personnel have continued to come up with innovative ways to have bears associate humans and their property with unpleasant experiences, such as being hit with [[rubber bullet]]s. Today,{{when|date=November 2020}} about 30 bears a year are captured and [[ear tag|ear-tagged]] and their [[DNA]] is sampled so that, when bear damage occurs, rangers can ascertain which bear is causing the problem.<ref>{{cite magazine | url= http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2001/04/0423_wirebears.html | title= DNA to Help Identify "Problem" Bears at Yosemite | magazine= National Geographic | date = April 23, 2001 | access-date=January 4, 2007}}</ref>{{needs update|date=November 2020}}
Despite the richness of high-quality habitats in Yosemite, the [[brown bear]], [[California condor]], and [[least Bell's vireo]] have become extinct in the park within historical time,<ref name = "snepTerrestrialVertebrates">{{Cite book | first = David M. | last = Graber | chapter = 25: Status of Terrestrial Vertebrates | year = 1996 | pages = 709–34 | title = Sierra Nevada Ecosystem Project. Final Report to Congress. Status of the Sierra Nevada Volume II: Assessments and Scientific Basis for Management Options | url = http://pubs.usgs.gov/dds/dds-43/VOL_II/VII_C25.PDF |isbn=1887673016}}</ref> and another 37 species currently have special status under either California or federal [[endangered species]] legislation. The most serious current threats to Yosemite's wildlife and the ecosystems they occupy include loss of a natural fire regime, [[exotic species]], air pollution, [[habitat fragmentation]], and climate change. On a more local basis, factors such as [[road kill]]s and the availability of human food have affected some wildlife species.{{citation needed|date=November 2020}}
[[File:Yellow star thistle.jpg|thumb|left|upright=0.6|The [[Centaurea solstitialis|yellow star thistle]] competes with Yosemite's native plants.{{citation needed|date=November 2020}}]]
Yosemite National Park has documented more than 130 non-native plant species within park boundaries. These non-native plants were introduced into Yosemite following the migration of early [[European colonization of the Americas|Euro-American]] settlers in the late 1850s. Natural and human-caused disturbances, such as wildland fires and construction activities, have contributed to a rapid increase in the spread of non-native plants. A number of these species aggressively invade and displace the native plant communities, resulting in impacts on the park's resources. Non-native plants can bring about significant changes in park ecosystems by altering the native plant communities and the processes that support them. Some non-native species may cause an increase in the fire frequency of an area or increase the available nitrogen in the soil that may allow more non-native plants to become established. Many non-native species, such as [[Centaurea solstitialis|yellow star thistle]] (''Centaurea solstitialis''), are able to produce a long [[tap root]] that allows them to out-compete the native plants for available water.<ref name = "exotic">{{cite web | url= http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/veg_exotics.htm | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070102234435/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/veg_exotics.htm|archive-date=January 2, 2007 | title= Exotic Plants | date = December 22, 2004| publisher= National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | access-date= January 4, 2007 }}</ref>
Bull thistle (''[[Cirsium vulgare]]''), common mullein (''[[Verbascum thapsus]]''), and Klamath weed (''[[Hypericum perforatum]]'') have been identified as noxious [[pest (organism)|pests]] in Yosemite since the 1940s. Additional species that have been recognized more recently as aggressive and requiring control are yellow star thistle (''Centaurea solstitialis''), sweet clover (''[[Melilot]]'' spp.), Himalayan blackberry (''[[Rubus armeniacus]]''), cut-leaved blackberry (''[[Rubus laciniatus]]'') and large periwinkle (''[[Vinca major]]'').<ref name = "exotic"/>
Increasing [[ozone]] pollution is causing tissue damage to the massive giant sequoia trees in the park, making them more vulnerable to insect infestation and disease. Since the [[conifer cone|cones]] of these trees require fire-touched soil to [[germination|germinate]], historic [[Wildfire#Suppression|fire suppression]] has reduced these trees' ability to reproduce. The current policy of setting [[prescribed fire]]s is expected to help the germination issue.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Giant Sequoias and Fire – Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks (U.S. National Park Service)|url=https://www.nps.gov/seki/learn/nature/giant-sequoias-and-fire.htm|access-date=2021-04-08|website=www.nps.gov|language=en}}</ref>
===Wildfires===
[[File:Yosemite Meadow fire, 9-7-2014.jpg|thumb|The [[Meadow Fire]] burns in Little Yosemite Valley, 2014]]
Natives to Yosemite traditionally and intentionally set small fires in the valley in the early 1860s and much earlier before that to clear the ground of brush as part as their farming practices, resulting in easier crop growth and faster cultivation.<ref name="Spence" /> These fires that Yosemite Natives lit are comparable to contemporary practices like [[controlled burn]]s which are done by the U.S. Forest Service and other environmental experts. Although it was not their primary concern for setting these fires, the Ahwahneechee and other Yosemite Natives helped preserve local biodiversity and ecosystem resilience by lighting these small fires. Native Americans used fire as an early wildlife management tool to keep certain lands clear, resulting in more food for large animals and decreasing the chance of large forest fires which devastate forest ecosystems today.<ref name=":5">{{Cite web |last=Johnson |first=Eric Michael |title=How John Muir's Brand of Conservation Led to the Decline of Yosemite |url=https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/primate-diaries/how-john-muir-s-brand-of-conservation-led-to-the-decline-of-yosemite/ |access-date=2022-04-21 |website=Scientific American Blog Network |language=en}}</ref> Some early uncontrolled forest fires were set accidentally by the militia group led by Major John Savage when the group burned down the Ahwahneechee camp in an attempt to remove them from the land. The houses that they lit on fire eventually caught a large section of the forest on fire and the militia group ended up having to abandon their raid to save their own camp from the wildfire they started.<ref name=":5" />
Forest fires seasonally clear the park of dead vegetation, making way for new growth.<ref name="Evergreen Magazine">{{cite web | url= http://evergreenmagazine.com/magazine/article/Are_there_good_forest_fires_.html | archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20140315012328/http://evergreenmagazine.com/magazine/article/Are_there_good_forest_fires_.html | archive-date= 2014-03-15 | title= Are There Good Forest Fires? | date = Summer 2002| publisher= Evergreen Magazine | access-date= 14 March 2014 }}</ref> These fires damage the income generated by tourism. The [[Rim Fire]] in 2013 destroyed nearly $2 billion in assets and revenue, though natural woodland assets are renewable, and closed off much of the park to tourists.<ref name="National Park Service Fires">{{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/yell/naturescience/wildlandfire.htm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150207153420/http://www.nps.gov/yell/naturescience/wildlandfire.htm |archive-date=February 7, 2015 |title=History of Wildland Fire in Yosemite Park |date=14 March 2014 |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=14 March 2014 |url-status=dead }}</ref> This fire was the third largest on record, and burned nearly 500 acres of wild habitat.<ref name="National Park Service Fires" /> During late July and early August, 2018, sections of the park, including the Valley, were temporarily closed due to the Ferguson Fire at its western boundary.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.fresnobee.com/news/local/article215400735.html|title=Yosemite Valley will close due to fire. 'Get yourself out of here,' official says|work=fresnobee|access-date=2018-07-24}}</ref> The closing was the largest in almost thirty years at the park.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/25/us/yosemite-national-park-fire.html|title=Yosemite National Park Evacuated Amid Threat From Fire|access-date=2018-07-30}}</ref>
==Activities==
[[File:Yosemite shuttlebus.jpg|thumb|left|Yosemite [[Hybrid vehicle|hybrid]] shuttle, a free [[Public transport bus service|bus service]]]]
Yosemite Valley is open year-round and numerous activities are available through the [[National Park Service]], Yosemite Conservancy, and [[Aramark]] at Yosemite, including nature walks, photography and art classes, stargazing programs, tours, bike rentals, rafting, mule and horseback rides, and rock climbing classes. Many people enjoy short walks and longer hikes to waterfalls in Yosemite Valley, or walks among giant sequoias in the Mariposa, Tuolumne, or Merced Groves. Others like to drive or take a tour bus to Glacier Point (summer–fall) to see views of Yosemite Valley and the high country, or drive along the scenic [[Tioga Road]] to Tuolumne Meadows (May–October) and go for a walk or hike.
Most park visitors stay just for the day, and visit only those locations within Yosemite Valley that are easily accessible by automobile. There is a [[United States dollar|US$]]25–30 per automobile user fee to enter the park, depending on the season.<ref>{{cite web | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/feesandreservations.htm | title = Fees and Reservations}} National Park Service: Yosemite National Park. Retrieved on October 27, 2007.</ref> Traffic congestion in the valley is a serious problem during peak season, in summer. A free [[public transport|shuttle bus system]] operates year-round in the valley, and [[park ranger]]s encourage people to use this system since parking within the valley during the summer is often nearly impossible to find.<ref>{{cite web | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/bus.htm | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | title = Bus | date = May 27, 2009 }}</ref> Transit options are available from [[Fresno, California|Fresno]] and [[Merced, California|Merced]].<ref name=Marshall>{{cite magazine| last1=Marshall |first1=Aarian | title= Hiking or Camping? Take the Bus to the Trail This Summer|url=https://www.wired.com/story/hiking-camping-take-bus-trail-summer/|magazine= [[Wired (magazine)|Wired]]| date=May 24, 2019 |access-date=June 9, 2019}}</ref>
In addition to exploring the natural features of the park, visitors can also learn about the natural and cultural history of Yosemite Valley at a number of facilities in the valley: the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center, the adjoining Yosemite Museum, and the Nature Center at Happy Isles. There are also two [[National Historic Landmark]]s: the [[Sierra Club]]'s [[LeConte Memorial Lodge]] (Yosemite's first public visitor center), and the Ahwahnee Hotel. Camp 4 was added to the [[National Register of Historic Places]] in 2003.<ref>{{cite web |title = Camp 4 Listed With National Register of Historic Places
| work = NPS Press Release | publisher =National Park Service | date = February 27, 2003 |url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/news/2003/camp0227.htm |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20070316120511/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/news/2003/camp0227.htm |archive-date = 2007-03-16 |access-date = December 14, 2008 }}</ref>
In the winter, it is snowed in, but the area of [[Tuolumne Meadows]] has a great deal of [[Hiking, rock climbing, and mountain climbing around Tuolumne Meadows|hiking, rock climbing, and mountain climbing]]; see also [[the highest mountains of Yosemite National Park]].
===Hiking===
[[File:Half dome cables big (cropped).jpg|thumb|upright|Hikers line the [[Half Dome]] cables on a busy summer day in 2008]]
Over {{convert|800|mi|km}} of trails are available to hikers<ref name="naturehistory"/>—everything from an easy stroll to a challenging mountain hike, or an overnight [[backpacking (wilderness)|backpack trip]]. One of the most popular trails leads to the summit of [[Half Dome]] and requires an advance permit from [[Memorial Day]] weekend in late May, to [[Columbus Day]] in early October.<ref>[https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/halfdome.htm "Half Dome Day Hike"] ([https://web.archive.org/web/20181030101332/https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/halfdome.htm archive]). ''nps.gov''. National Park Service. April 18, 2018. Retrieved November 27, 2018.</ref> A maximum of 300 hikers, selected by lottery, are permitted to advance beyond the base of the subdome each day, including 225 day hikers and 75 backpackers.<ref>[https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/hdpermits.htm "Half Dome Permits for Day Hikers"] ([https://web.archive.org/web/20181118095956/https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/hdpermits.htm archive]). ''nps.gov''. National Park Service. November 9, 2018. Retrieved November 27, 2018.</ref>
The park can be divided into five sections for the day-user—Yosemite Valley, Wawona/Mariposa Grove/Glacier Point, Tuolumne Meadows, Hetch Hetchy, and [[Crane Flat Campground|Crane Flat]]/White Wolf.<ref>{{cite web|url = http://www.yosemitehikes.com/hikes.htm|title = Yosemite Hikes|first = Russ|last = Cary}}</ref> Numerous books describe park trails, and free information is available from the National Park Service in Yosemite. Park rangers encourage visitors to experience portions of the park in addition to Yosemite Valley.
Between late spring and early fall, much of the park can be accessed for multiple-day backpacking trips. All overnight trips into the back country require a wilderness permit<ref name = "permits"/> and most require approved bear-resistant food storage.<ref name = "food storage">{{cite web | publisher = National Park Service: National Park Service | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/bears.htm| title = Bear and food storage | date = February 10, 2010}}</ref>
===Driving destinations===
{{Further|List of Yosemite destinations}}
While some locations in Yosemite require hiking, other locations can be reached via automobile transportation. Driving locations also allow guests to observe the night sky in locations other than their campsite or lodge. All of the roads in Yosemite are scenic, but the most famous is the Tioga Road, typically open from late May or early June through November.<ref name = "auto touring">{{cite web | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | title = Auto Touring | url =http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/touring.htm | date = December 22, 2004 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref>
As an alternative to driving, bicycles are allowed on the roads. However, bicycles are allowed off-road on only {{convert|12|mi|km}} of paved trails in Yosemite Valley itself; mountain biking is not allowed.<ref name="bike">{{cite web | title= Biking | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/biking.htm | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park |date=March 2007 | access-date = March 23, 2007 }}</ref>
===Climbing===
[[File:Tom Frost - Ryan Frost in Narrows - 1996.jpg|thumb|left|upright|Climbing the Narrows in [[Sentinel Rock]]]]
Rock climbing is an important part of Yosemite.<ref name="climbing">{{cite web | title = Climbing | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbing.htm | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | date = December 11, 2008}}</ref> In particular [[Yosemite Valley]], which is surrounded by famous summits like [[Half Dome]] and [[El Capitan]]. [[Camp 4 (Yosemite)|Camp 4]], a walk-in campground in the Valley, was instrumental in the development of rock climbing as a sport, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.<ref name = "camp4">{{cite press release | title = Camp 4 Listed With National Register of Historic Places | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | date = February 27, 2003 | url = http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/news/2003/camp0227.htm | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20070316120511/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/news/2003/camp0227.htm | archive-date = 2007-03-16 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref> Climbers can generally be spotted in the snow-free months on anything from ten-foot-high (3 m) boulders to the {{convert|3300|ft|km|adj=on}} face of El Capitan. Classes on rock climbing are offered by numerous groups.
===Winter activities===
[[File:Yosemite Winter Hiking.jpg|thumb|A ranger-guided [[snowshoe]] walk in the park]]
Yosemite Valley is open all year, although some roads within the park close in winter. [[Downhill skiing]] is available at the [[Badger Pass Ski Area]]—the oldest downhill skiing area in California, offering downhill skiing from mid-December through early April.<ref name="skiing">{{cite web |url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wintersports.htm | title= Skiing | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | date = September 21, 2006 | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref> Much of the park is open to [[cross-country skiing]] and [[snowshoe]]ing, with several backcountry ski huts open for use.<ref name = "TuolumneWinter">{{cite web | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | title = Tuolumne Meadows Winter Conditions Update | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/tm.htm | access-date = January 27, 2007 }}</ref><ref name="winter">{{cite web | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | title = Winter Wilderness Travel | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildwinter.htm | date = March 2, 2010}}</ref> Wilderness permits are required for backcountry overnight ski trips.<ref name = "permits">{{cite web | title = Wilderness Permits | publisher = National Park Service: Yosemite National Park | url = http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm| date = February 12, 2010 }}</ref>
The [[Ahwahnee Hotel|Bracebridge dinner]] is an annual holiday event, held since 1927 at the Ahwahnee Hotel, inspired by [[Washington Irving]]'s descriptions of Squire Bracebridge and English [[Christmas]] traditions of the 18th century in his ''Sketch Book''. Between 1929 and 1973, the show was organized by [[Ansel Adams]].<ref name="Bracebridge">{{cite web|title=History |work=The Bracebridge Dinner at Yosemite |url=http://www.bracebridgedinners.com/history.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120312225909/http://www.bracebridgedinners.com/history.html |archive-date=March 12, 2012 |access-date=May 8, 2010 |url-status=dead }}</ref>
===Other===
Bicycle rentals are available in Yosemite Valley spring through fall. Over {{convert|12|mi|km}} of paved bike paths are available in Yosemite Valley. In addition, bicyclists can ride on regular roads. Helmets are required by law for children under 18 years of age. Off-trail riding and [[mountain biking]] are not permitted in Yosemite National Park.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/pphtml/planyourvisit.html|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090221050244/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/pphtml/planyourvisit.html|archive-date=February 21, 2009|title=Plan Your Visit|work=Yosemite National Park|publisher=U.S. National Park Service}}</ref>
Water activities are plentiful during warmer months. Rafting can be done through the Yosemite Valley on the Merced River from late May to July.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Brown |first1=Ann Marie |title=Moon Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon Hiking, Camping, Waterfalls & Big Trees |date=2015 |publisher=Avalon Publishing |isbn=9781640494459|at=Rafting}}</ref> There are also swimming pools available at Yosemite Lodge and Curry Village.
{{Clear}}
In 2010, Yosemite National Park was honored with its own quarter under the [[America the Beautiful Quarters]] program.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.americathebeautifulquarters.gov/coins/2010/yosemite|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110721032931/http://www.americathebeautifulquarters.gov/coins/2010/yosemite|archive-date=July 21, 2011|title=Yosemite National Parks Quarter|publisher=U.S. Mint}}</ref>
===Horsetail Fall===
Horsetail Fall flows over the eastern edge of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. This small waterfall usually flows only during winter and is easy to miss. On rare occasions during mid- to late February, it can glow orange when it's backlit by sunset. This unique lighting effect happens only on evenings with a clear sky when the waterfall is flowing. Even some haze or minor cloudiness can greatly diminish or eliminate the effect. Although entirely natural, the phenomenon is reminiscent of the human-caused Firefall that historically occurred from Glacier Point.
==In popular culture==
[[File:Yogi Bear with "don't feed the bears" message - NARA - 286013.tif|thumb|upright|A [[Yogi Bear]] sign advising young visitors to not feed the bears at Yosemite National Park.]]
The opening scenes of ''[[Star Trek V: The Final Frontier]]'' (1989) were filmed in Yosemite National Park. Films such as ''[[The Last of the Mohicans (1920 American film)|The Last of the Mohicans]]'' (1920) and ''[[Maverick (film)|Maverick]]'' (1994) have also been shot here.<ref>Maddrey, Joseph (2016). ''The Quick, the Dead and the Revived: The Many Lives of the Western Film''. McFarland. p. 175. {{ISBN|978-1476625492}}.</ref> The 2014 documentary ''[[Valley Uprising]]'' is centered around Yosemite Valley and its history with an emphasis on the climbing culture.<ref>{{Citation|last1=Mortimer|first1=Peter|title=Valley Uprising|date=2014-09-01|url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3784160/|type=Documentary|others=Peter Sarsgaard, Alex Honnold, Yvon Chouinard, Royal Robbins|publisher=Sender Films, Big UP Productions|access-date=2021-04-26|last2=Rosen|first2=Nick|last3=Lowell|first3=Josh}}</ref> The Academy Award-winning 2018 documentary ''[[Free Solo]]'' was filmed in Yosemite.<ref>{{Cite news|last=Catsoulis|first=Jeannette|date=September 27, 2018|title=Review: In 'Free Solo,' Braving El Capitan With Only Fingers and Toes|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/27/movies/free-solo-review-alex-honnold-el-capitan.html|access-date=2020-09-04}}</ref> ''[[The Dawn Wall]],'' a 2017 documentary, was also filmed in Yosemite.<ref>{{Citation|last1=Lowell|first1=Josh|title=The Dawn Wall|date=2018-07-17|url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7286916/|type=Documentary, Biography, Sport|others=John Branch, Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson|publisher=Red Bull Media House, Sender Films|access-date=2021-04-26|last2=Mortimer|first2=Peter}}</ref>
==See also==
{{columns-list|colwidth=30em|
* [[1996 Yosemite Valley landslide]]
* [[Bibliography of the Sierra Nevada]]
* [[Buffalo Soldier#Park rangers|Buffalo Soldiers (park rangers)]]
* [[Cathedral Peak Granodiorite]]
* [[Chinquapin, California]]
* [[List of birds of Yosemite National Park]]
* [[List of national parks of the United States]]
* [[List of plants of the Sierra Nevada (U.S.)|List of plants of the Sierra Nevada]]
* [[National parks in California]]
* [[National Register of Historic Places listings in Yosemite National Park]]
* [[Protected areas of the Sierra Nevada]]
* [[Yosemite Sam]] – Warner Bros. theatrical cartoon character
* [[Yosemite West, California]], a community inside the gates of the park
}}
==Citations==
{{clear right}}
{{reflist}}
==General references==
{{refbegin}}
* {{Cite book|title = Yosemite: the Park and its Resources|last = Greene|first = Linda Wedel|publisher = U.S. Department of the Interior / National Park Service|year = 1987|url = http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/yosemite_resources/yosemite_resources.pdf|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20110606144808/http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/yosemite_resources/yosemite_resources.pdf|archive-date = 2011-06-06}}
* {{cite book|last=Harris|first=Ann G.|title=Geology of National Parks|edition=Fifth|location=Kendall, Iowa|publisher=Hunt Publishing|year=1998|isbn=0787253537}}
* {{cite book|last1=Kiver|first1=Eugene P.|first2=David V.|last2=Harris|title=Geology of U.S. Parklands|edition=Fifth|publisher=John Wiley & Sons|location=New York|year=1999|isbn= 0471332186}}
* Muir, John. "[http://ebooks.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=cent;cc=cent;rgn=full%20text;idno=cent0040-5;didno=cent0040-5;view=image;seq=0666;node=cent0040-5%3A2 Features of the Proposed Yosemite National Park]" ''The Century; a popular quarterly'' (Sept. 1890) 40#5
* {{cite book|last=Schaffer|first=Jeffrey P.|title=Yosemite National Park: A Natural History Guide to Yosemite and Its Trails|publisher=Wilderness Press|location=Berkeley|year=1999|isbn=0899972446}}
* {{cite book|last=Wuerthner|first=George|title=Yosemite: A Visitor's Companion|publisher=Stackpole Books|year=1994|isbn=0811725987|url=https://archive.org/details/yosemitevisitors00wuer}}
* {{cite book|title=Yosemite: Official National Park Service Handbook|volume=138|publisher=Division of Publications, National Park Service|year=1989|ref={{harvid|NPS|1989}}}}
* {{NPS}}
** {{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wtr_climate.htm|title=Climate|date=December 22, 2004|access-date=January 27, 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070101113353/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wtr_climate.htm|archive-date=January 1, 2007|publisher=National Park Service}}
** {{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/veg_exotics.htm|title=Exotic Vegetation|date=December 22, 2004|access-date=January 27, 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070102234435/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/veg_exotics.htm|archive-date=January 2, 2007|publisher=National Park Service}}
** {{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/nature.htm|title=Nature & History|date=October 13, 2006|access-date=January 27, 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070125062753/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/nature.htm|archive-date=January 25, 2007|publisher=National Park Service}}
** {{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/water.htm|title=Water Overview|date=December 22, 2004|access-date=January 27, 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070107180730/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/water.htm|archive-date=January 7, 2007|publisher=National Park Service}}
** {{cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wildlife.htm|title=Wildlife Overview|date=December 22, 2004|access-date=January 27, 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070127153544/http://www.nps.gov/archive/yose/nature/wildlife.htm|archive-date=January 27, 2007|publisher=National Park Service}}
{{refend}}
==External links==
{{Spoken Wikipedia|date=2005-06-18|Yosemite_National_Park_(Part_1).ogg|Yosemite National Park (Part 2).oga}}
* {{Official website}} of the [https://www.nps.gov/index.htm National Park Service]
* [https://www.yosemite.org/ Yosemite Conservancy]
* [http://xroads.virginia.edu/~MA96/RAILROAD/home.html The Role of the Railroads in Yellowstone and Yosemite National Parks] from American Studies at the University of Virginia
* [https://www.yosemite.com/ Yosemite Mariposa County Tourism Bureau]
;Media specific
* [https://vimeo.com/35396305 Project Yosemite | Yosemite HD | Motion Timelapse Video]
* {{Cite web |url=http://thehive.modbee.com/?q=node%2F153 |title=Historic Yosemite Indian Chiefs – with photos |access-date=April 6, 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060521032840/http://thehive.modbee.com/?q=node%2F153 |archive-date=May 21, 2006 |url-status=dead}}
* [https://contentdm.lib.byu.edu/digital/collection/EdithIrvine/search/searchterm/yosemite%20national%20park%20(calif.)/field/subjec/mode/all/conn/and/order/title/ad/asc Historic Photographs of Yosemite National Park taken by Edith Irvine]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20181024200910/https://www.projectyose.com/ Project Yosemite | An ongoing adventure to timelapse Yosemite in an extreme way]
* [https://archive.org/details/my_first_summer_in_the_sierra_ap_0906_librivox/ My First Summer in the Sierra] by John Muir. Free MP3 audio recording from LibriVox.org
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All external links in the new text (all_links) | [
0 => 'https://edits.nationalmap.gov/apps/gaz-domestic/public/summary/255923',
1 => 'https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/management/statistics.htm',
2 => 'https://irma.nps.gov/STATS/Reports/Park/YOSE',
3 => 'https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/Yosemite%20Falls',
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