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{{short description|Traditional weaving art of Bangladesh }}
{{cleanup|date=December 2008}}
{{Infobox textile
| name = Jamdani
| image = জামদানী শাড়ী.jpg
| caption = Jamdani Saris in historic [[Sonargaon]] city
| type = Fabric
| material = [[Cotton]]
| method = [[Weaving]]
| process = [[Craft production]]
| location = [[Narayanganj]], Bangladesh
| introduced =
}}
{{Infobox intangible heritage
| ICH = Traditional art of Jamdani weaving
| State Party = Bangladesh
| ID = 00879
| Region = APA
| Year = 2013
| Session= 8th
| List = Representative
}}
{{Culture of Bangladesh}}
{{Culture of Bangladesh}}
⚫
[[Image:Blue jamdani.JPG|thumb|220px|Traditional blue jamdani]]
'''Jamdani''' ({{lang-bn|জামদানি}}) is one of the finest [[muslin]] textiles of [[Bengal]], produced in [[Dhaka District]], [[Bangladesh]] for centuries.


'''Jamdani''' ({{langx|bn|জামদানি}}) is a fine [[muslin]] textile (figured with different patterns) produced for centuries in South Rupshi of [[Narayanganj]] district in [[Bangladesh]] on the bank of Shitalakhwa river.
⚫
The historic production of jamdani was patronized by [[Royal warrant|imperial warrants]] of the [[Mughal emperors|Mughal]] emperors. Under [[British India|British colonialism]], the Bengali jamdani and muslin industries rapidly declined due to colonial import policies favoring industrially manufactured textiles. In more recent years, the production of jamdani has witnessed a revival in Bangladesh.


⚫
The historic production of jamdani was patronized by imperial warrants of the [[Mughal emperors]]. During the period of [[British Raj|British rule in India]], Bengal's jamdani and muslin industries rapidly declined due to the government's crackdown on local production and promotion of imported textiles manufactured in [[Great Britain]]. In more recent years, the production of jamdani has witnessed a revival in Bangladesh. Jamdani is typically woven using a mixture of cotton and gold thread.
⚫
The traditional art of weaving jamdani has been declared by [[UNESCO]] as a [[Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity|Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity]].<ref name="Encyclopædia Britannica">{{cite web|author=|url=http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/299805/jamdani|title= jamdani |publisher=britannica.com|date= |accessdate=2013-12-04}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.thedailystar.net/beta2/news/jamdani-recognised-as-intangible-cultural-heritage-by-unesco/ |title=Jamdani recognised as intangible cultural heritage by Unesco|publisher=the daily star|date= |accessdate=2013-12-04}}</ref><ref name=Jamdani >{{cite web| title= Traditional art of Jamdani weaving|url= http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?lg=en&pg=00011&RL=00879|publisher=UNESCO Culture Sector |accessdate=2013-12-04}}</ref>

⚫
In 2013, the traditional art of weaving jamdani was declared a [[Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity|UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity]].<ref name="Encyclopædia Britannica">{{cite web|url=http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/299805/jamdani|title=jamdani|publisher=Britannica |access-date=2013-12-04}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.thedailystar.net/beta2/news/jamdani-recognised-as-intangible-cultural-heritage-by-unesco/ |date=December 5, 2013 |title=Jamdani recognised as intangible cultural heritage by Unesco|work=The Daily Star|access-date=2013-12-04 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131206185959/http://www.thedailystar.net/beta2/news/jamdani-recognised-as-intangible-cultural-heritage-by-unesco/ |archive-date= Dec 6, 2013 }}</ref><ref name="Jamdani">{{cite web|url=http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?lg=en&pg=00011&RL=00879|title=Traditional art of Jamdani weaving|publisher=UNESCO Culture Sector|access-date=2013-12-04 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131216084219/http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?lg=en&pg=00011&RL=00879 |archive-date= Dec 16, 2013 }}</ref>

In 2016, Bangladesh received [[geographical indication]] (GI) status for Jamdani Sari.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|url=https://www.thedailystar.net/country/jamdani-sari-gets-gi-registration-certificate-1316203|title=Jamdani Sari gets GI registration certificate|work=The Daily Star |date=Nov 17, 2016 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230617155500/https://www.thedailystar.net/country/jamdani-sari-gets-gi-registration-certificate-1316203 |archive-date= Jun 17, 2023 }}</ref>


==Etymology==
==Etymology==
Jamdani was originally known as ''[[Dhakai]]'' named after the city of [[Dhaka]], one of many ancient textile weaving centers in [[Bengal]] region.<ref>[http://thedailystar.net/lifestyle/2009/04/04/centre.htm]</ref> Under the [[Mughal Empire]] the Persian term ''Jamdani'' came to be in popular use, since it was the court language of the Mughals. The term ''Jamdani'' is Persian deriving from 'Jam', meaning flower, and 'Dani', a vase or a container. Jamdanis are popularly known as [[Dhakai|Dhakai Jamdani]] or simply [[Dhakai]]. The earliest mention of jamdani and its development as an industry is found into [[Dhaka]], [[Bangladesh]].
Jamdani was originally known as ''[[Dhakai]]'' (Daccai) named after the city of [[Dhaka]] (Dacca), one of many ancient textile weaving centers in [[Bengal]] region.<ref>{{cite periodical |url=http://archive.thedailystar.net/lifestyle/2009/04/04/centre.htm |title=Dhakais in danger |periodical =The Daily Star |volume =5 |issue =65 |date=April 28, 2009 |first1=Raffat Binte |last1=Rashid |access-date=2012-06-28 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210608090248/http://archive.thedailystar.net/lifestyle/2009/04/04/centre.htm |archive-date= Jun 8, 2021 }}</ref> Under the [[Mughal Empire]] the Persian term ''Jamdani'' came to be in popular use, since it was the court language of the Mughals. Jamdanis are popularly known as Dhakai Jamdani or simply Dhakai. The earliest mention of jamdani and its development as an industry is found into Dhaka, [[Bangladesh]].


==Origin==
==Origin==
An early reference to Indian origins of muslin is found in the book of [[Periplus of the Erythraean Sea]] and in the accounts of Arab, Chinese and Italian travelers and traders.
The origin of the Jamdani is shrouded in mystery. Megasthenes, Greek ambassador in Chandragupta Maurya's court, speaking of the costumes of the people of India, writes: "their robes are worked in gold, and ornamented with various stones, and they wear also flowered garments of the finest muslin."
"No conventional ornament is probably more ancient than the coloured stripes and patterns we find on Indian cotton cloths," says G. C. M Birdwood. On the testimony of Megasthenes we may hold that the flowered garments of the finest muslin, which came to be known as the Jamdani in the Mughal period, can be traced far back to the Maurya period (c.321-185 BCE) or even earlier.


Jamdani is a hand loom woven fabric made of cotton, which was historically referred to as muslin. The Jamdani weaving tradition is of Bengali origin. It is one of the most time and labor-intensive forms of hand loom weaving, and is considered one of the finest varieties of muslin,<ref>{{Cite book|last=Mahapatra|first=N. N.|title=Sarees of India|publisher=Woodhead Publishing India PVT. Limited|year=2016|isbn=9789385059698|pages=72}}</ref> and the most artistic textile of [[Bangladeshi]] weavers. Traditionally woven around [[Dhaka]] and created on the loom brocade, jamdani is rich in motifs. In the late 19th
==History==
The Jamdani weaving tradition is of Bengali origin. It is one of the most time and labor-intensive forms of hand loom weaving. In the first half of the nineteenth century, [[James Taylor]] described the figured or flowered jamdani; in the late nineteenth century, T. N. Mukharji referred to this fabric as jamdani muslin.
century, T. N. Mukharji referred to this fabric as jamdani muslin.

⚫
[[File:Bangladeshi bride in Jamdani sari.jpg|thumb|Bangladeshi bride in Jamdani sari]]


==Weave==
==Weave==
⚫
[[File:Making of Jamdani-9.jpg|thumb|220px|Traditional way of weaving jamdani]]
Whether figured or flowered, jamdani is a woven fabric in cotton, and it is undoubtedly one of the varieties of the finest muslin. It has been spoken of as the most artistic textile of the Bangladeshi weaver. They are traditionally woven around [[Dhaka]], [[Bangladesh]], and on the brocade loom. This is a supplementary weft technique of weaving, where the artistic motifs are produced by a non-structural weft, in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The standard weft creates a fine, sheer fabric while the supplementary weft with thicker threads adds the intricate patterns to it. Each supplementary weft motif is added separately by hand by interlacing the weft threads into the warp with fine bamboo sticks using individual spools of thread. The result is a myriad of vibrant patterns that appear to float on a shimmering surface. What’s remarkable in this weaving technique is that the pattern is not sketched or outlined on the fabric. Instead, it is drawn on a graph paper and placed underneath the warp. Jamdani is a fine muslin cloth on which decorative motifs are woven on the loom, typically in grey and white. Often a mixture of cotton and gold thread were/was used.
Whether figured or flowered, jamdani is a woven fabric in cotton. This is a supplementary weft technique of weaving, where the artistic motifs are produced by a non-structural weft, in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The standard weft creates a fine, sheer fabric while the supplementary weft with thicker threads adds the intricate patterns to it. Each supplementary weft motif is added separately by hand by interlacing the weft threads into the warp with fine bamboo sticks using individual spools of thread. The result is a complex mix of different patterns that appear to float on a shimmering surface. The pattern is not sketched or outlined on the fabric, but is drawn on a graph paper and placed underneath the warp. Jamdani is a fine muslin cloth on which decorative motifs are woven on the loom, typically in grey and white. Often a mixture of cotton and gold thread was used.


==Varieties of jamdani work==
==Varieties of jamdani work==
⚫
Though mostly used for [[sari]]s, Jamdani is also used for [[scarf|scarves]] and [[handkerchief]]s. Jamdani is believed to be a fusion of the ancient cloth-making techniques of Bengal (possibly 2,000 years old) with the [[muslin]]s produced by [[Bengali Muslims]] since the 14th century. Jamdani is the most expensive product of Dhaka looms since it requires the most lengthy and dedicated work.
⚫
[[File:Jamdani Saree Sale Sonargaon.jpg|right|thumb|Jamdani Sari for sale in Sonargaon, Bangladesh]]
⚫
Though mostly used for [[sari]]s, Jamdani is also used for [[scarf|scarves]] and [[handkerchief]]s. Jamdani is believed to be a fusion of the ancient cloth-making techniques of [[Bengal]] (perhaps 2,000 years old) with the [[muslin]]s produced by [[Bengali Muslims]] since the 14th century. Jamdani is the most expensive product of [[Dhaka]] looms since it requires the most lengthy and dedicated work.


Jamdani patterns are mostly of geometric, plant, and floral designs and are said to have originated thousands of years ago. Due to the exquisite painstaking methodology required, only aristocrats and royal families were able to afford such luxuries.
Jamdani patterns are mostly of geometric, plant, and floral designs and are said to have originated thousands of years ago. Due to the exquisite painstaking methodology required, only aristocrats and royal families were able to afford such luxuries.


==Changes with time==
==Changes with time==
We do not know exactly when jamdani came to be adorned with floral patterns of the loom. It is, however, certain that in the [[Mughal era|Mughal]] period, most likely during the reign of either [[Emperor Akbar]] (1556–1605) or [[Emperor Jahangir]] (1605–1627), the figured or flowered muslin came to be known as the jamdani. Forbes Watson in his most valuable work titled ''Textile Manufactures and Costumes of the people of India'' holds that the figured muslins, because of their complicated designs, were always considered the most expensive productions of the Dhaka looms.<ref>Glassie, Henry and Mahmud, Firoz.2008.Living Traditions. Cultural Survey of Bangladesh Series-II. Asiatic Society of Bangladesh. Dhaka. pp.351</ref>
We do not know exactly when jamdani came to be adorned with floral patterns of the loom. It is, however, certain that in the [[Mughal era|Mughal]] period, most likely during the reign of either [[Emperor Akbar]] (1556–1605) or [[Emperor Jahangir]] (1605–1627), the figured or flowered muslin came to be known as the jamdani. [[John Forbes Watson]] in his work titled ''Textile Manufactures and Costumes of the people of India'' holds that the figured muslin because of their complicated designs, were always considered the most expensive productions of the Dhaka looms.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Glassie |first1=Henry |last2=Mahmud |first2=Firoz |year=2007 |title=Living Traditions |series=Cultural Survey of Bangladesh Series-II |location=Dhaka |publisher=Asiatic Society of Bangladesh |page=351 |oclc=930683574}}</ref>
The price for a piece was recorded as ''56 [[Livre tournois|Livre]] in 1776.'' <ref>{{Cite book|last=Watson|first=John Forbes|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=KAxCAQAAMAAJ&q=Textile+Manufactures+and+Costumes+of+the+people+of+India|title=The Textile Manufactures and the Costumes of the People of India|date=1866|publisher=India Office|pages=79|language=en}}</ref>


==Decline and fall==
==Decline and fall==
Line 36: Line 56:


==Current problems==
==Current problems==
⚫
[[File:Jamdani Saree Sale Sonargaon.jpg|right|thumb|Jamdani Sari for sale in Sonargaon, Bangladesh]]
According to a national daily, a senior taanti or "ostad" earns about Tk 2,500 to Tk 3,000 per month. Junior weavers get much less, around Tk 1,600. As a result, many weavers do not want their children to come to this profession. For many, the garments industry offer a lucrative alternative.
According to a national daily, a senior taanti or "[[Ustad|ostad]]" earns about Tk 2,500 to Tk 3,000 per month. Junior weavers get much less, around Tk 1,600. As a result, many weavers do not want their children to come to the profession, preferring the more lucrative garments industry.


Thankfully, the government and other organizations are trying to revive the old glory of Dhakai Jamdani. In a bid to avoid the middlemen, they are trying to establish direct contact with the weavers. A Jamdani Palli has been established near Dhaka. Jamdani, one of the oldest forms of cottage industry in Bangladesh, was once a dying trade. It was successfully revived due to the pioneering work of entrepreneurs such as Monira Emdad. Dhakaiaa Jamdani store is now so popular and biggest online page for jamdani sharee [http://www.facebook.com/dhakaiaajamdani Dhakaiaa Jamdani], [[Tangail Saree Kutir]] along with other sari stores on Baily Road, Jamdani Hut, Aarong and Nilanjona polli strive to support the thousands of weavers of Bangladesh who have struggled to keep this age old tradition and fashion alive. Organizations like Radiant Institute of Design, Shanto Mariam University of creative technology,National Institute of Design (NID) and others are helping designers create new Jamdani designs.
The government and other organizations are trying to revive the old glory of Dhakai Jamdani. In a bid to avoid the middlemen, they are trying to establish direct contact with the weavers. A Jamdani Palli has been established near Dhaka. Jamdani, one of the oldest forms of cottage industry in Bangladesh, was once a dying trade. Organizations like Radiant Institute of Design, Shanto Mariam University of creative technology, National Institute of Design, and others are helping designers create new Jamdani designs.


Jamdani has never gone out of style. Even today, Jamdani is equally valued It has and it always will symbolize aristocracy. The demand for quality Jamdani Sarees have increased exponentially over the years.
Jamdani is a symbol of aristocracy. The demand for quality Jamdani Sarees has increased greatly over the years.


== Controversy regarding Geographical Indication ==
== Geographical indication ==
In 2016, Bangladesh received [[geographical indication]] (GI) status for Jamdani Sari.<ref name=":0" /> It was the first GI status given to any Bangladeshi product.
Despite being a Bangladeshi tradition, India has filed a [[Geographical indication|Geographical Indication]] for Jamdani in 2009 which should belong to Bangladesh. Several protests continued in Bangladesh following it.<ref>{{Cite web|title = Press reports on Protecting Geographical Indication Products in Bangladesh - Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD)|url = http://cpd.org.bd/index.php/press-reports-geographical-indication-jamdani-bangladesh-cpd-dialogue/|website = Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD)|accessdate = 2015-11-24|language = en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title = India – Bangladesh Parliamentary Dialogue|url = http://www.ficci-inbdpd.com/htm/recom.html|website = www.ficci-inbdpd.com|accessdate = 2015-11-24}}</ref>

== Recent attempts at revival ==

Whilst the art of jamdani is on the decline due to current problems such as competition with cheaper and more lucrative clothing as well as lack of suitable remuneration for weavers. However, there have been a few encouraging signs in recent times.

For instance, the Indian government awarded master weaver of Jamdani saris, Biren Kumar Basak from West Bengal with the Padma Shri award, which is the fourth highest civilian award in the country. Biren Kumar Basak also hailed the award and recognition of his work by Prime Minister Modi as a good sign for the future of the Jamdani community in Bengal.<ref>{{cite news |title=Ache Din for Jamdani community: Weaver Biren Kumar Basak gets Modi sari gift with Padma Shri |url=https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/art-and-culture/ache-din-jamdani-community-weaver-biren-kumar-basak-modi-sari-gift-padma-shri-7621080/ |work=[[The Indian Express]] |date=2021-11-08 |access-date=2023-08-28}}</ref>

Exhibitions such as the Jamdani Festival of Wearable Art curated by Chandra Shekhar Shaha was held in July 2023 in Bangladesh in collaboration with the National Crafts Council of Bangladesh to illustrate sustainably produced and hand-woven jamdani saris.<ref>{{cite news |title=Jamdani Exposition in the City |url=https://www.thedailystar.net/news/bangladesh/news/jamdani-exposition-the-city-3376891 |work=[[The Daily Star (Bangladesh)|The Daily Star]] |date=2023-07-20 |access-date=2023-08-28}}</ref>

Moreover, brands such as TARINA by designer Tarina Sen are attempting to preserve the traditional crafts of jamdani by creating contemporary clothes. Labels such as TARINA are striving to help jamdani weavers in West Bengal and Odisha by reaching new markets, consisting of the younger generation, by creating attractive clothes that presents a harmony of modern and traditional designs.<ref>{{cite news |title=Tarina to hold jamdani exhibition at Artix fair in Delhi |url=https://in.fashionnetwork.com/news/Tarina-to-hold-jamdani-exhibition-at-artix-fair-in-delhi,1545483.html |work=[[Fashion Network]] |date=2023-08-22 |access-date=2023-08-22}}</ref>

==Images==

<gallery>
File:Emperor Akbar, Los Angeles County Museum of Art.jpg| Mughal emperor [[Akbar]] wearing an imperial jamdani [[Sash]]
File:Jahangir.gif| The young emperor [[Jahangir]] wearing an imperial jamdani [[Sash]]
File:Mike Pompeo with Sheikh Hasina in New York - 2018 (44057292035).jpg| Former Prime Minister of Bangladesh [[Sheikh Hasina]] in an Ivory gold jamdani sari
File:Manmohan Singh and the Chairperson, National Advisory Council, Smt. Sonia Gandhi at the Foundation Stone laying ceremony of Ghani Khan Choudhury Institute of Engineering & Technology (GKCIET), in Malda, West Bengal.jpg|Indian National Congress Chairperson [[Sonia Gandhi]] in a green Dhakai jamdani sari
File:The Vice President, Shri M. Hamid Ansari giving away the Lokmat Parliamentary Award 2017 to the Member of Parliament (RS), Smt. Jaya Bachchan, in New Delhi (1).jpg|Bollywood actress and politician [[Jaya Bachchan]] in an off white color jamdani
⚫
File:Bangladeshi bride in Jamdani sari.jpg|Bangladeshi bride in jamdani sari
File:Nusrat Faria003.jpg| Bangladeshi actress [[Nusraat Faria]] in a red jamdani
File:Bangladesh visits (53002771495).jpg|[[Saida Muna Tasneem]] high commissioner of Bangladesh to the United Kingdom.
File:Jamdani shop at BSCIC Jamdani palli, Narayanganj 5.jpg|Seller showing Jamdani saree.
</gallery>

==See also==
*[[Tangail Saree]]


==References==
==References==
Line 49: Line 97:


==External links==
==External links==
*[http://www.sareeguru.com/acatalog/Jamdani_Sarees_Info.html More Info on Jamdani Sarees]
*[http://www.thedailystar.net/magazine/2005/10/04/cover.htm Jamdani's Struggle to Survive]
*[http://www.thedailystar.net/magazine/2005/10/04/cover.htm Jamdani's Struggle to Survive]
*[http://www.bhb.gov.bd/ Bangladesh Handloom Board Official Website]
*[http://bdcompanylist.blogspot.com/2015/04/jamdani-sarees-and-salwar-kameez.html available jamdani-sarees-and-salwar-kameez]
*[http://www.ebanglapedia.com/en/article.php?id=2697#.VbR9cfmqqko Jamdani on Banglapedia]
*[http://www.jamdani.com/ Ultimate Destination of Jamdani Saree]
*Tangail Saree Kutir, Baily Road - External Source - 1 [http://www.craftrevival.org/detailsNgos.asp?CountryCode=BANGLADESH&NgosCode=002165], 2 [http://sos-arsenic.net/lovingbengal/womens-culture.html], 3 [http://www.bangladesh-web.com/view.php?hidDate=2004-11-17&hidType=FEA&hidRecord=0000000000000000026974]


{{Sari}}
{{fabric}}
{{fabric}}
{{Bangladeshi wedding}}
{{Bengali clothing}}
{{Geographical indications in Bangladesh}}

[[Category:Geographical indications in Bangladesh]]
[[Category:Bangladeshi clothing]]
[[Category:Bangladeshi clothing]]
[[Category:Woven fabrics]]
[[Category:Woven fabrics]]
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[[Category:Bangladeshi handicrafts]]
[[Category:Bangladeshi handicrafts]]
[[Category:Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity]]
[[Category:Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity]]
[[Category:Textile arts of Bangladesh]]

Latest revision as of 10:18, 27 December 2024

Jamdani
Jamdani Saris in historic Sonargaon city
TypeFabric
MaterialCotton
Production methodWeaving
Production processCraft production
Place of originNarayanganj, Bangladesh
Traditional art of Jamdani weaving
CountryBangladesh
Reference00879
RegionAsia and the Pacific
Inscription history
Inscription2013 (8th session)
ListRepresentative
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Jamdani (Bengali: জামদানি) is a fine muslin textile (figured with different patterns) produced for centuries in South Rupshi of Narayanganj district in Bangladesh on the bank of Shitalakhwa river.

The historic production of jamdani was patronized by imperial warrants of the Mughal emperors. During the period of British rule in India, Bengal's jamdani and muslin industries rapidly declined due to the government's crackdown on local production and promotion of imported textiles manufactured in Great Britain. In more recent years, the production of jamdani has witnessed a revival in Bangladesh. Jamdani is typically woven using a mixture of cotton and gold thread.

In 2013, the traditional art of weaving jamdani was declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.[1][2][3]

In 2016, Bangladesh received geographical indication (GI) status for Jamdani Sari.[4]

Etymology

[edit]

Jamdani was originally known as Dhakai (Daccai) named after the city of Dhaka (Dacca), one of many ancient textile weaving centers in Bengal region.[5] Under the Mughal Empire the Persian term Jamdani came to be in popular use, since it was the court language of the Mughals. Jamdanis are popularly known as Dhakai Jamdani or simply Dhakai. The earliest mention of jamdani and its development as an industry is found into Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Origin

[edit]

An early reference to Indian origins of muslin is found in the book of Periplus of the Erythraean Sea and in the accounts of Arab, Chinese and Italian travelers and traders.

Jamdani is a hand loom woven fabric made of cotton, which was historically referred to as muslin. The Jamdani weaving tradition is of Bengali origin. It is one of the most time and labor-intensive forms of hand loom weaving, and is considered one of the finest varieties of muslin,[6] and the most artistic textile of Bangladeshi weavers. Traditionally woven around Dhaka and created on the loom brocade, jamdani is rich in motifs. In the late 19th century, T. N. Mukharji referred to this fabric as jamdani muslin.

Weave

[edit]
Traditional way of weaving jamdani

Whether figured or flowered, jamdani is a woven fabric in cotton. This is a supplementary weft technique of weaving, where the artistic motifs are produced by a non-structural weft, in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The standard weft creates a fine, sheer fabric while the supplementary weft with thicker threads adds the intricate patterns to it. Each supplementary weft motif is added separately by hand by interlacing the weft threads into the warp with fine bamboo sticks using individual spools of thread. The result is a complex mix of different patterns that appear to float on a shimmering surface. The pattern is not sketched or outlined on the fabric, but is drawn on a graph paper and placed underneath the warp. Jamdani is a fine muslin cloth on which decorative motifs are woven on the loom, typically in grey and white. Often a mixture of cotton and gold thread was used.

Varieties of jamdani work

[edit]

Though mostly used for saris, Jamdani is also used for scarves and handkerchiefs. Jamdani is believed to be a fusion of the ancient cloth-making techniques of Bengal (possibly 2,000 years old) with the muslins produced by Bengali Muslims since the 14th century. Jamdani is the most expensive product of Dhaka looms since it requires the most lengthy and dedicated work.

Jamdani patterns are mostly of geometric, plant, and floral designs and are said to have originated thousands of years ago. Due to the exquisite painstaking methodology required, only aristocrats and royal families were able to afford such luxuries.

Changes with time

[edit]

We do not know exactly when jamdani came to be adorned with floral patterns of the loom. It is, however, certain that in the Mughal period, most likely during the reign of either Emperor Akbar (1556–1605) or Emperor Jahangir (1605–1627), the figured or flowered muslin came to be known as the jamdani. John Forbes Watson in his work titled Textile Manufactures and Costumes of the people of India holds that the figured muslin because of their complicated designs, were always considered the most expensive productions of the Dhaka looms.[7] The price for a piece was recorded as 56 Livre in 1776. [8]

Decline and fall

[edit]

From the middle of the 19th century, there was a gradual decline in the jamdani industry. A number of factors contributed to this decline. The subsequent import of lower quality, but cheaper yarn from Europe, started the decline. Most importantly, the decline of Mughal power in India, deprived the producers of jamdani of their most influential patrons. Villages like Madhurapur and Jangalbari, (both in the Kishoreganj district), once famous for the jamdani industry went into gradual oblivion.

Current problems

[edit]
Jamdani Sari for sale in Sonargaon, Bangladesh

According to a national daily, a senior taanti or "ostad" earns about Tk 2,500 to Tk 3,000 per month. Junior weavers get much less, around Tk 1,600. As a result, many weavers do not want their children to come to the profession, preferring the more lucrative garments industry.

The government and other organizations are trying to revive the old glory of Dhakai Jamdani. In a bid to avoid the middlemen, they are trying to establish direct contact with the weavers. A Jamdani Palli has been established near Dhaka. Jamdani, one of the oldest forms of cottage industry in Bangladesh, was once a dying trade. Organizations like Radiant Institute of Design, Shanto Mariam University of creative technology, National Institute of Design, and others are helping designers create new Jamdani designs.

Jamdani is a symbol of aristocracy. The demand for quality Jamdani Sarees has increased greatly over the years.

Geographical indication

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In 2016, Bangladesh received geographical indication (GI) status for Jamdani Sari.[4] It was the first GI status given to any Bangladeshi product.

Recent attempts at revival

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Whilst the art of jamdani is on the decline due to current problems such as competition with cheaper and more lucrative clothing as well as lack of suitable remuneration for weavers. However, there have been a few encouraging signs in recent times.

For instance, the Indian government awarded master weaver of Jamdani saris, Biren Kumar Basak from West Bengal with the Padma Shri award, which is the fourth highest civilian award in the country. Biren Kumar Basak also hailed the award and recognition of his work by Prime Minister Modi as a good sign for the future of the Jamdani community in Bengal.[9]

Exhibitions such as the Jamdani Festival of Wearable Art curated by Chandra Shekhar Shaha was held in July 2023 in Bangladesh in collaboration with the National Crafts Council of Bangladesh to illustrate sustainably produced and hand-woven jamdani saris.[10]

Moreover, brands such as TARINA by designer Tarina Sen are attempting to preserve the traditional crafts of jamdani by creating contemporary clothes. Labels such as TARINA are striving to help jamdani weavers in West Bengal and Odisha by reaching new markets, consisting of the younger generation, by creating attractive clothes that presents a harmony of modern and traditional designs.[11]

Images

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  • Mughal emperor Akbar wearing an imperial jamdani Sash
    Mughal emperor Akbar wearing an imperial jamdani Sash
  • The young emperor Jahangir wearing an imperial jamdani Sash
    The young emperor Jahangir wearing an imperial jamdani Sash
  • Former Prime Minister of Bangladesh Sheikh Hasina in an Ivory gold jamdani sari
    Former Prime Minister of Bangladesh Sheikh Hasina in an Ivory gold jamdani sari
  • Indian National Congress Chairperson Sonia Gandhi in a green Dhakai jamdani sari
    Indian National Congress Chairperson Sonia Gandhi in a green Dhakai jamdani sari
  • Bollywood actress and politician Jaya Bachchan in an off white color jamdani
    Bollywood actress and politician Jaya Bachchan in an off white color jamdani
  • Bangladeshi bride in jamdani sari
    Bangladeshi bride in jamdani sari
  • Bangladeshi actress Nusraat Faria in a red jamdani
    Bangladeshi actress Nusraat Faria in a red jamdani
  • Saida Muna Tasneem high commissioner of Bangladesh to the United Kingdom.
    Saida Muna Tasneem high commissioner of Bangladesh to the United Kingdom.
  • Seller showing Jamdani saree.
    Seller showing Jamdani saree.

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "jamdani". Britannica. Retrieved 2013-12-04.
  2. ^ "Jamdani recognised as intangible cultural heritage by Unesco". The Daily Star. December 5, 2013. Archived from the original on Dec 6, 2013. Retrieved 2013-12-04.
  3. ^ "Traditional art of Jamdani weaving". UNESCO Culture Sector. Archived from the original on Dec 16, 2013. Retrieved 2013-12-04.
  4. ^ a b "Jamdani Sari gets GI registration certificate". The Daily Star. Nov 17, 2016. Archived from the original on Jun 17, 2023.
  5. ^ Rashid, Raffat Binte (April 28, 2009). "Dhakais in danger". The Daily Star. Vol. 5, no. 65. Archived from the original on Jun 8, 2021. Retrieved 2012-06-28.
  6. ^ Mahapatra, N. N. (2016). Sarees of India. Woodhead Publishing India PVT. Limited. p. 72. ISBN 9789385059698.
  7. ^ Glassie, Henry; Mahmud, Firoz (2007). Living Traditions. Cultural Survey of Bangladesh Series-II. Dhaka: Asiatic Society of Bangladesh. p. 351. OCLC 930683574.
  8. ^ Watson, John Forbes (1866). The Textile Manufactures and the Costumes of the People of India. India Office. p. 79.
  9. ^ "Ache Din for Jamdani community: Weaver Biren Kumar Basak gets Modi sari gift with Padma Shri". The Indian Express. 2021-11-08. Retrieved 2023-08-28.
  10. ^ "Jamdani Exposition in the City". The Daily Star. 2023-07-20. Retrieved 2023-08-28.
  11. ^ "Tarina to hold jamdani exhibition at Artix fair in Delhi". Fashion Network. 2023-08-22. Retrieved 2023-08-22.
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