User:Satohina/Kariginu

• From the "Kasuga Gongen Genki E"
  From the "Kasuga Gongen Genki E"
• From the "Kasuga Gongen Genki E"
  From the "Kasuga Gongen Genki E"
• From the "Kasuga Gongen Genki E"
  From the "Kasuga Gongen Genki E"
• Portrait of the mid-Edo Period lord Kanshuji Keitsu
  Portrait of the mid-Edo Period lord Kanshuji Keitsu
• A young Sanjō Sanetomi wearing Kariginu
  A young Sanjō Sanetomi wearing Kariginu
• A diagram of a man wearing kariginu, from "Buke Shouzoku Chakuyou Zu"
  A diagram of a man wearing kariginu, from "Buke Shouzoku Chakuyou Zu"
• Kariginu, from "Wakan Sansai Zue"
  Kariginu, from "Wakan Sansai Zue"

Kariginu is an article of daily clothing worn by nobles in the Heian Period. While originally named for its usage during the hunting season, kariginu became popular year-round due to the court nobles' active lifestyles. As time went on, kariginu would more often be produced in the colors of the nobility, and eventually became popular as a ritual garment within the Samurai class. As a result, anyone wearing kariginu was prohibited from leaving imperial palace grounds. Following the Meiji Period, kariginu became the ritual garb of Shinto priests.

Traditional hunting garb consisted only of kariginu and sashinuki worn atop undergarments. A tate-eboshi (standing hat) was a common addition.

Granted its use as daily clothing, kariginu came in all manner of colors and patterns, though certain colors were restricted by class or imperial permission.

A plain, unpatterned white kariginu worn with sashinuki is known as Jōe, and is worn exclusively during Shinto rituals.

Construction

While kariginu has long, wide sleeves and a stiff-backed collar similar to kimono and noushi, its construction is unique, using half as much fabric to construct the body. The sleeves are sewn directly to the back, but the sides are left open for ease of motion, allowing the arms to move up and down. Traditionally, hitoe under-layers would be visible through the sides, however hitoe is often omitted in modern ritual use.

Akin to the noushi, the collar of kariginu is fastened around the neck using a clasp known as "kagerou" (dragonfly). The fastener is hooked around the mouth of the collar, similar to suikan, which instead uses string.

The sleeves are laces with a cord referred to as "sode-giri" (sleeve-stopper), which could be pulled to tighten the sleeve in a manner similar to a drawstring. Typically, younger individuals wore longer, flashier "sode-giri", the appearance of which would be toned down as they grew older and their size remained consistent. 中世以来の伝統を踏まえて江戸時代に完成したしきたりでは、元服後しばらくは菊綴じのない毛抜型（二色の撚紐計四本を装飾的に縫いつける）で、その後「薄平」という薄く幅広の組紐（現代の神職装束で「平露」と呼ぶもの）となり、中年では「厚細」という厚みのある組紐（のちに用いなくなった。組織は帯締めに使う「ゆるぎ打ち」に類する）、老年では「縒括」といって右撚りと左撚りの紐二本を並べて通した（現代の神職装束で「細露」と呼ぶもの）ものにする。なお、裏のない狩衣の場合、年齢にかかわらず「縒括」を用いた。 [[Category:Samurai]] [[Category:Shinto religious clothing]]